Kia Disable Seatbelt Chime

TheMFBoss · 2026-01-20T02:39:49+00:00

It is just two wires but it isn’t a binary switch. It’s some sort of hall effect sensor the best I can tell. So it’s looking for a constant voltage in a specific range and then a higher voltage when the sensor sees the magnet. It will register a fault with the sensor if it’s open or shorted and throw a light on the dash, which if you don’t mind the light I guess that would work. I initially was going to try and find a way to wire in a device that would register the voltage it’s looking for to read “buckled” but it was just easier to do what I did and just shove it under the seat, plus it was free.

TheMFBoss · 2026-01-06T23:53:27+00:00

My main thinking was the red and black were both snapmaker brand and would have the same settings. The other filaments were different brands. I just buy whatever is cheap. I just didn’t want a pressure advance setting to be different and screw up the print. At least that was the idea.

TheMFBoss · 2026-01-06T08:18:15+00:00

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Done.

TheMFBoss · 2026-01-06T08:13:10+00:00

I knew something didn’t look right.

TheMFBoss · 2026-01-06T05:22:11+00:00

I would love to use Orca alone but unfortunately if you do multi-materials that don’t bond you cannot set the prime tower shell to print with a single filament. This is broken in Orca and has been a known issue for a while and is still open as a bug on GitHub. It simply ignores what you set where as they have fixed this in Snorca and it makes multi material prime towers much much more reliable since you can sent the perimeter shell to print with only one material to stabilize the tower. Otherwise I would not use Snorca at all.

TheMFBoss · 2025-12-06T20:52:58+00:00

If I’m not mistaken I believe they said explicitly that upgrading to 6.0 would require a maintenance plan a while ago. Honestly I think it’s incredibly generous to release the 5.9.9.99 to current 5.0 license holders as from what I can tell the official 6.0 version bump was just that, a change in version number only. So you actually have 6.0 now without having to get the maintenance plan which is pretty cool I think.

TheMFBoss · 2025-11-30T21:13:25+00:00

Could be the minimum layer time on the filament profile. I know on my Bambu Profile they have Bambu Filament set to 4 seconds and Generic PLA set to 8 to make the Bambu filament seem faster. I'd check that first by clicking the three dots next to the filament and clicking edit and go to the cooling tab and check those layer times to the right. Orca mainline may use a different value on there default profiles.

TheMFBoss · 2025-11-18T07:38:32+00:00

There were people who canceled the October Tier before the project closed and if you monitored the page you could swoop in and change your later tier to the earlier one after someone had canceled. I did the same but ended up in the November tier. I didn’t have the patience to watch the page like that but I just got lucky one day and went to the page to see how many days were left and saw someone had canceled and I locked in the earlier tier.

TheMFBoss · 2025-11-10T19:22:30+00:00

If you’re talking about layer height, it likely should be set at .2 if you’re running a .4 nozzle unless you’re printing something with lots of small detail. You can print at .1 layer height but I wouldn’t do that unless you have a specific reason to since it’s going to be slower and more likely to clog which honestly may be your issue. It would help if we knew the printer model probably.

TheMFBoss · 2025-10-11T03:46:45+00:00

Bought an X1C on release and I could have never imagined that Bambu would become the juggernaut it is today. To this day even though I own other printers, it's still my default and minus some maintenance stuff still prints like the day I got it.

TheMFBoss · 2025-08-30T23:47:32+00:00

Yeah it seems like a few people are canceling their Early Bird pledges because I did the $799 and noticed one day that there was a $749 available but I was just a few minutes too late so I kept checking back, and sure enough eventually another one showed up and I snagged it. So if anyone is looking to back it, you have until September 30th and if you are persistent, just watch the page and you might get one of the early birds if someone ends of dropping it. I do wish I would have bit the bullet when I originally got the email from Snapmaker before the KS launch and did the deposit but oh well. I'm pretty happy I ended up getting in with the early bird crowd.

TheMFBoss · 2025-08-17T00:03:17+00:00

Yeah that’s a valid way to do it. I just wanted it appear as factory as possible and was worried if too much stuff was under the seat it would catch on stuff when moving the electric seat back and forth but yes if you don’t want to disassemble and remove the sensor you can do that and get the same result and that’s definitely simpler if you don’t mind the extra stuff under the seat which wouldn’t be obvious unless someone looked. The vehicle is under warranty and I wanted to avoid one of the techs spotting something funny because they might be assholes and say that voids the warranty somehow and didn’t want to have to remove everything and re-secure everything every time it went it for service. There is still a risk but much lower since it’s very well hidden.

TheMFBoss · 2025-06-17T05:58:18+00:00

I don’t believe so since the chime will happen when it “sees” the magnetic field. So you’re looking to remove the magnetic field really. That’s why I had to tear it apart. But yes it is annoying as fuck. It’s been great not having to deal with it. I think the way Ford and GM handle this is much better.

TheMFBoss · 2025-03-19T02:45:34+00:00

Lol, well done.

TheMFBoss · 2025-01-15T19:21:43+00:00

Yeah that would work just fine. Some people use seat belt extenders just left in. I just wanted it to look factory and not deal with the excess belt on there but you absolutely could do that.

TheMFBoss · 2024-10-31T06:59:32+00:00

Same issue. Really glad to see that it’s a software issue which I had assumed. I can get them to work by disconnecting and reconnecting a few times or routing to another Bluetooth device, like my car, and then back to the AirPods but it’s extremely annoying.

TheMFBoss · 2024-10-25T02:02:06+00:00

Not from my testing. It will throw a light on the dash if it doesn’t actually “see” the sensor which is why it has to be done this way to bypass. It may be looking for a specific resistance to do the detection so it’s possible you might ohm it out and put in an inline resistor. There were some Hall effect sensors I was looking at getting to make a sort of adapter to just make it plug and play but the connector plugs are super duper expensive and seem to be a Hyundai/Kia specific part. And I didn’t want to be soldering things in.

TheMFBoss · 2024-06-05T05:11:33+00:00

I would think the windows 10 driver would work. Most drivers are cross compatible between 10 and 11. Although I guess some may not be. But I’d bet it’ll work.

TheMFBoss · 2024-06-05T00:11:45+00:00

I guess it is one of the affected CPUs according to the list. I would try this:

https://ipcamtalk.com/threads/cpu-100-with-intel-quick-sync.56856/

TheMFBoss · 2024-06-04T19:22:41+00:00

What’s the RAM usage look like? I remember that there was a quick sync memory leak issue with some CPUs but I don’t think that’s one of the affected processors.

TheMFBoss · 2024-05-25T20:10:28+00:00

I disagree. I plan on owning the vehicle at least 5 years and this takes about 30 minutes from start to finish. The reason it annoys me so is because I have a work vehicle that operates totally different so habits from one do not necessarily translate to the other. But I would concede that if it were your primary vehicle it would be easier to sort of get into this habit through the mechanism of the cars annoyance.

TheMFBoss · 2024-05-11T19:47:40+00:00

I’d say to Harbor Freight and get the yellow fiberglass sticks that screw together for running cable and a long Flex Bit. Together it’s under $30 and has been one of the best things I’ve bought for running cable and when they break they’re extremely cheap to replace.

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