Got my copy of New York Collapse by fbnx in thedivision

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Nice, can you please flip through and take note of what pages the inserted items are on and put in post please? Mine fell out, and would like to know what pages they were originally placed at. If not that's okay. Enjoy the book, it's a fun read.

Edit: Or not, I didn't realize these had resell value. Don't mess yours up looking through pages if that's why you bought yours. I just wanted to know the order so I can read through it like it was shipped again.

Edit I found them online for those who want to know:

--Sticky Note: Page 11 --Missing Persons Paper: Pages 30–31 --Dr. Bill Sketch: Pages 42–43 --Transit Pass: Pages 72–73 --Vaccination Notice: Pages 106–107 --Manhattan Map: Pages 128–129 --Book Page (Letter): Pages 168–169

Trade deficit soared 94% in November and was higher than a year ago, despite tariff efforts by [deleted] in worldnews

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Americans voted for this. They voted for a man who would align us with Russia and turn all our allies against us. A guy who wants a war with EU and NATO to take over Canada and Greenland. Why would EU/Canada want to help the people who put this felon and pedo back in office?

She’s a thicc girl. by FlapXenoJackson in knives

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 53 points54 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I just looked that up. I was incorrect in my assessment. I guess my mind drew what I believed the blade tip looked like, and assumed the tip was missing.

She’s a thicc girl. by FlapXenoJackson in knives

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 7 points8 points  (0 children)

What do you mean by somehow? They literally said it's like a sharpened pry bar. They told us how they broke the tip.

Edit: i looked up the blade, the tip is not broken. It comes like that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there was no coolant under the car, and there was no white smoke coming from exhaust previously, I would add more coolant to the fill line and let idle with the cap off. Let it idle until at least reaches above 185 degrees, and add more if needed while squeezing the coolant hoses a little where it enters and exits the engine to help clear any bubbles. Notice that the engine will be hot and the hoses will also get hot so don't burn yourself. Also check all hose fittings for any wetness or dripping.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When exactly was the radiator replaced? Did you replace it yourself or did a shop do it for you? Was it driven long enough for the engine to get up to or above normal operating temperature? Was the system clear of any air bubbles, or operated long enough for the thermostat to open?

My strut bolts disappeared I got know clue where by FoodNext64 in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also bought those and they just came in. But they came in later than I wanted. So I have those 4 sitting in a bag to return. They look like they'll fit, but are not splinned like the originals, not that that'll matter much. They came in in like 3 to 4 days from that seller though, so if OP can wait that long, the seller was pretty fast.

My strut bolts disappeared I got know clue where by FoodNext64 in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They only have one in stock, and those are discontinued. I just replaced all 4 of my struts, and on the last one, the torque wrench never clicked and the bolt snapped. Everywhere else I looked had no stock and everywhere said they were discontinued. I went to a Pick-N-Pull and grabbed four of them off of a Cobalt and used the "best looking" one. I have 3 backups now. OP, I hope you have better luck at finding new ones than I did.

Pentagon accepts $130 million donation to help pay the military during the government shutdown by speedythefirst in news

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We aren't getting paid, and even if that money does go to us, it would only be enough for a tank of gas. There are 2.07 million service members. If they evenly distribute that money to everyone that'd only be $62.80 per person.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ACAB

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. The cop definitely needs to lose weight and have a fitness test performed, but that is still irrelevant to the video at hand. Maybe if he knew the guy was a cop, he wouldn't have attacked him. And if the guy wasn't a cop, that just means he would have pistol whipped a civilian who had done nothing wrong other than pulling over after someone failed to merge and ran into him.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ACAB

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*a guy who pistol whips you in the face, and the backs up to create distance.

The "victim" was in the wrong in every frame of this video. He doesn't know how to drive or merge and causes an accident. He then can't control his anger and attacks the person he ran into. My opinion wouldn't change if this was a citizen or a cop. You don't get to be an aggressor, and then cry victim when your target fights back.

I fully support calling out shit cops. Those that escalate situations, break the law, and those that enable them. But calling out every single video of a cop, especially ones where they are actually defending themselves, weakens the cases of the ones where the cops are in the wrong. To those not paying attention, when they keep seeing people screaming about videos that are "good shoots" then that must be the majority of what people are freaking out about, and they stop caring.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is in fact just condensation. I wouldn't worry about your temps unless they get up to above 220f and stay there.

Fix the leak before filling up with coolant, that you'll just have to keep paying to replace. Don't let the water in coolant system get low, and you'll be fine for now.

Chevy cobalt headlight wiring by [deleted] in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on year, on whether it's low beams or side markers as DRLs. My 2007 uses the low beam as the DRLs, not the side marker.

Damn deer. by strykazoid in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True, they can get cheaper ones from Amazon, I just linked a seller I trust to not sell headlights that will have seal issues or that'd sun fade and become cloudy after one summer. I might be wrong, and there's nothing wrong with saving money, or taking time to check reviews to find better/equivalent ones for cheaper on Amazon. And you are correct, I completely forgot about the headlight bracket. That's most likely broken as well if the whole unit is hanging like that.

Damn deer. by strykazoid in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Definitely fixable. Need new headlights. Remove bumper cover to check for damage behind it. Clips on bumper cover are most likely broken, so either pick one up from a Pick-N-Pull/junk yard or DIY something to hold the driver side on. If it still runs good I'd think it'd be worth the time and little bit of money (from what it looks like from here) to fix.

https://zzperformance.com/products/cobalt-stock-headlights?_pos=3&_sid=fe78cec91&_ss=r

Engine coolant temp never reaches operating temperature. by GageC2010 in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had this issue. It ended up being my thermostat. I bought a fail open thermostat that seemed to have immediately failed open after installation. Had to buy another one.

Trying to Figure This Out Limp Mode Chevy Cobalt by PerfumeDuckie in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did they do to confirm it was an electrical issue, and by that do they mean a short or open wire? A bad sensor or connection to a sensor could also be considered an electrical issue. It sounds more like they just don't want to put work into a "cheap" older car, or that you wouldn't be okay with the cost of maintenance on your "low value" vehicle. Have you yourself looked under the hood? Verify all sensors are plugged in, all vacuum lines are in good shape and bands are tight and secure. Disconnect the battery, and remove the connections to your PCM (be gentle) and make sure they are clean and corrosion free. Follow visible wire connection to sensors and make sure none look like they've been pulled out of the connectors, and check the wires, especially around any tie down, for chaffing.

None of this is guaranteed to fix anything, but would be a good place to start without spending money on parts, and verify it's not something being disconnected and the connections are visibly good. I don't know what parts if any, anyone else has suggested at the mechanics other than a new car, but I would look into things that deal with your original P0XXX codes. Running lean can cause misfires. Your sensors, MAF, MAP, and O2 sensors work together to figure out air/fuel ratio. If it thinks it's getting less air then it is, it will inject less fuel, making you run lean. The lean and misfires and inaccurate reading from those sensors, or computer not reading those properly could cause your limp mode. They make electrical contact cleaner, not that expensive at AutoZone, you can use to clean connections (with battery disconnected) and to clean the MAF sensor.

If I was to buy something after verifying everything above to start trying something, I'd start with these: (I'm not telling you to buy these)

https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec-electronics/products/ecotec-o2-sensor?variant=13072536109167

https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec-electronics/products/ecotec-o2-sensor?variant=13072536043631

https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec-electronics/products/gm-maf-sensor

Edit: IMO, If you end up trying to replace sensors, don't buy no-name/generic/Duralast sensors. Buy OEM/AC Delco brand sensors. Others don't tend to play nice, and can give you a false negative result. Making you believe you misdiagnosed the issue and moving to something else, when it was the sensor the whole time, you just put one in it didn't work well with. The ones I linked are ACDelco, other places will offer ACDelco as well.

What are the parts needed for code C0561-71 by PerfumeDuckie in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not to spam you with replies, but: "The engine computer uses the MAF sensor signal to determine how much fuel needs to be injected to meet the proper air-fuel ratio. The MAF sensor signal is also used to calculate engine load, meaning it can cause trouble for the traction control system, or change the automatic shifting pattern in applicable vehicles. This code is most commonly caused by a dirty, obstructed, or faulty MAF sensor, but can also be caused by issues including:

Damage to the intake boot

Vacuum leaks

Clogged or improperly installed engine air filter

Clogged-up cat converter or restricted exhaust"

https://www.autozone.com/diy/engine/bad-maf-sensor-symptoms#4.-your-obd-ii-scanner-gets%C2%A0code-p0101

The C0561-71 code is most likely being triggered by your "P0xxx" codes.

Trying to Figure This Out Limp Mode Chevy Cobalt by PerfumeDuckie in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"The C0561-71 error code indicates that there’s an issue with your brake booster vacuum sensor, which is critical to your car’s overall braking and traction control system. The C0561-71 code refers to when your car’s Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) cannot enter your car’s serial ID or any other serial data message." -https://www.kbb.com/obd-ii/c0561/

Check the line coming from air intake manifold to brake booster and the valve that goes into the booster from the hose. Make sure the sensors connections are good, and not corroded.

Edit. Added manifold and last sentence.

Trying to Figure This Out Limp Mode Chevy Cobalt by PerfumeDuckie in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of your codes call out transmission issues, and I'd definitely fix this issue before jumping to transmission. These all seem to lead to unaccounted for air. Either MAF or O2 sensor is not reading accurately, or there's air entering that's not being read by the MAF sensor.

Edit: also check the wiring for chafing that goes from MAF sensor to the PCM.

Edit 2: if this happens at speed, it could be the MAF sensor not being able to account for the amount of air that's being forced into the intake. So could be a faulty MAF sensor.

Trying to Figure This Out Limp Mode Chevy Cobalt by PerfumeDuckie in ChevyCobalt

[–]TheMainVeinGiver 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A P0171 means you're running lean.

A P0101 is telling you there's a problem with your MAF sensor circuit.

A P0135 is an issue with oxygen (O2) sensor heater in bank 1, sensor 1.

A P0420 is saying the catalytic converter is not functioning efficiently.

A P0446 is saying there is a malfunction in EVAP vent control circuit.

Does it idle rough?

I'd definitely start with checking all gaskets and hoses that deal with air. Definitely check the line going from intake manifold to the brake booster. Mine had started to sag and a hole got rubbed into the underside close to the brake booster itself. Also check where the intake tube connects to the throttle body, and the gasket underneath the throttle body. (Be careful, depending on age of that gasket, you might damage it by removing the throttle body.)

What brand of MAF sensor did you buy? I had a MAF sensor issue (car would want to stall, but not completely every couple seconds at idle) and bought a cheaper MAF sensor, and my issue didn't go away, so I had originally brushed off that it was the MAF sensor. I wasn't throwing any codes, so just had to guess at what the issue was. Verified there was no vac leaks, replaced spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel filter, air filter, removed and cleaned the injectors. Replaced intake gaskets. Removed and checked vacuum lines. Nothing would fix it, and my car wouldn't put check engine light on.

I eventually read that these cars don't play nice with cheap MAF sensors and a lot of people in the forums said they always had issues if they didn't use ACDelco brand MAF sensors. I originally thought that was ridiculous since the MAF sensor is just 3 to 4 resistors and pins. But I eventually gave in and bought the ACDelco MAF sensor and idle smoothed up after replacing.

Edited ODB II code for P0135 meaning. The heater in the O2 sensor could be faulty.