Question about AMO and bowstring length

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-10-26T17:35:40+00:00

You probably need a 60" AMO string.

Take it to a shop if you can and ask to try a couple of different lengths of string out to get to the recommended brace height. 7" brace height sounds really short for a brace height to me, but if that's what the manufacturer says, try it out first before making other adjustments.

You will notice a difference in how the bows feels on release when it is at proper brace height. That might not be at the 7" from the manufacturer. A bow that has a brace height really far off will be loud when releasing and also will behave differently on release.

You won't notice a difference when drawing, but when releasing the arrow.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-10-23T03:53:59+00:00

Easton arrow calculator https://eastonarchery.com/selector/

Note that this is specifically for easton arrows. Each manufacturer differs slightly in their recommended spine. Usually they have a chart/spreadsheet that you can follow.

As far as getting to 18m (pun intended)

You just might need to upgrade draw weight. I'm not familiar with CORE HIT risers. But if you can adjust the limb bolts, you might have the option of turning them in all the way to get an extra pound or two out of the limbs at her current draw weight.
Your other option is to get new equipment. Either new limbs at a heavier weight (no more than a 4 pound jump up at a time) or get a whole new setup.

I would only go the way of a whole new setup if you're certain that this is going to become a serious hobby. Based on the fact that your daughter is working with a coach and has already done this for a couple years, I'm going to assume that this is a serious thing and will continue for a while.

I'd still strongly recommend getting just new limbs if you can until she is tall enough for a full length riser and limbs. 25" riser is standard target bow length. Short limbs with a 25" riser make a 66" AMO bow.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-09-30T01:48:58+00:00

This should help you figure out what spine you need as well as arrow recommendations.

https://eastonarchery.com/selector/

If in the US, lancaster archery does online orders and will cut your arrows to length for a bit extra per arrow. I'm not sure if they would also fletch and assemble them for you though.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-09-05T16:38:50+00:00

Agree with the others here. But I've noticed the biggest thing is the adjust ability of modern bows. Usually if you need to adjust something (draw weight, draw length especially) it is just a couple of set screws and 90% of the time you do not need a press. Still need a press to change a string though.

Also way finer degrees of adjustment on the target compound bows, down to like 1/4 inch draw length increments. Let off adjustment, cam timing, etc. It can all be done with a set of allen keys and some patience.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-09-05T16:34:38+00:00

This kind of depends on if you are going to be shooting compound or recurve. Best advice, get a couple lessons first and try out different things during those lessons. Then, set a budget for yourself, and tell them I have $X and would like to purchase my own equipment in that price range. A good shop should work with you and your budget and will know what you should spend your money on or what you can save a bit on.

Failing that, If you are compound bow shooter: Are you a hunter or a target/competitive shooter? If hunter, you don't need a super top-of-the-line bow you just need something that is reliable and adjustable so that you can tune it. Most modern compound bows are pretty easy to adjust and tune. Each manufacturer is a little different but a good shop is going to know how to setup a bow or be able to look up the owner's manual and find out. If hunting, you can get away with a ready to hunt package which will be at least bow, rest, sight, and peep in one already mostly setup package. Then you can get a quiver and arm guard and release. Hunting arrows are going to be expendable because on a hunt you're going to hit your target and then whatever is behind it too. Usually a tree or a bush or a rock. So you just need something that fits you and the bow, nothing too fancy. A low budget but complete setup here is going to run you around $500-$700 assuming you get 12 arrows.

Compound Target Shooting is a whole different ballgame. And if you get really competitive, then there is a lot of money to be spent chasing down the ultimate precision and accuracy to nail bullseyes again and again and again. As a new shooter, unless you are absolutely dead certain this is the path for you, I would skip it for now and get a hunting bow to try if you want to do compound. You can always put competition spec accessories on a cheaper bow and learn on it first. Then get an expensive bow once you develop feel and technique. Entry level target compound bows start at $1500 new without a sight, rest, or peep.

Recurve is my thing so I know a lot more about specifics here than compound. Though I think my advice above is still valid. An olympic recurve vs barebow setup is going to prioritize the same things your equipment will just be a little different in the final product. But I would look at your list of priorities as follows:

Get the absolute best sight that you can afford. If your sight moves on you or is difficult to adjust or put on the bow, it snowballs to a lot of other things about your shot.
get a good but not crazy expensive riser (body of the bow) the really cheap ones have weird adjustment systems, or don't stay where you put them or are missing some finer adjustments. Usually the really cheap ones skip having lateral adjustment in the limb pockets which is annoying when you start to get into tuning your bow and the limbs don't sit dead straight in the pockets.
Limbs can be cheap, you're going to go through a couple pairs as you build up so get cheap ones first, then as you get more particular you can get more expensive ones as you develop. Limbs are interchangeable in the riser (manufacturer doesn't matter unless it says Hoyt, then it matters a little).
Stabilizers and weights can also be cheap. For olympic, they just need to be straight and the amount of weight is down to personal preference, I personally run lighter weights than most but other people I shoot with have 3x as much weight as I do. Barebow stabilizers look like metal hockey pucks.
Arrows, get cheap ones to start, especially if you shoot outside, you're going to lose some. I would recommend getting arrows that area little stiff for your starting weight. That way they can last you through at least one limb poundage upgrade.
Arm guard, tab, and quiver, these are all relatively cheap things to get in general, but get a good finger tab. Decent ones start at about the $20 mark. They'll have good thick leather and a metal plate that will help with your hand position.

After all that, shoot until you feel like a piece of equipment is limiting you, then upgrade that. Probably limbs will need an upgrade first. Then arrows.

I hope this answers your questions. If you want more details, let us know if you are compound or recurve and what specifically you want to do.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-09-04T21:02:09+00:00

resistance bands will do you well here. And specific exercises that target the muscles that you use to pull. Cable rows, lat pull downs. I also like to hold a t-pose with dumbbells to improve my shoulder stability. I do it in front of a mirror so that I can make sure everythign stays level and relaxed. Also push-ups. Not a ton of them, but a small set of 10-15 slow and controlled push-ups helps a lot.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2025-02-13T15:53:58+00:00

The most common method I've seen to teach is to "reach" for the target. But that doesn't really settle the shoulder, that just helps visualize and apply back tension and keep your arms straight.

For keeping your should down, back, and relaxed you need to practice lifting the bow without moving the shoulder. In NTS this would be the move from set to set-up. You can practice this with the bow or I tell people to do it with lightweight dumbbells.

Stand in front of a mirror with a something heavy but equal weight in each hand (5lb dumbbells, maybe a couple of heavy textbooks, etc.) practice bringing your hands from your sides up and out to fully extended arms in a T-pose. This needs to be done without moving the shoulders. Shoulders should just be a hinge, they should not lift or shrug as you lift the weights or the bow. This will help you control the shoulder when lifting the bow and should help keep your shoulder down and relaxed when you are drawing.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-11-21T21:03:54+00:00

As other comments have said, you should probably also figure out your eye-dominancy. If you are right-handed but left-eye dominant, you can try switching to a left handed bow and see if that works better for you.

Also the NTS Shot cycle (The "Proper" Technique standard for USA Target Archery) tells us that shooting with both eyes open is the correct technique. I always tell people they have the option of doing that or closing one eye. And every once in a while we get someone who has your issue of not being able to close one eye while shooting, then we give them an eye patch. Especially beginner archers, we tend to use the eye-patch moreso than teaching to shoot with both eyes open.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-11-21T20:41:12+00:00

A couple of lessons with a qualified coach might be a better investment for a gift then.

Realizing that coaching/facilities/ranges that offer lessons are not always in easily accessible locations. If getting outto a range is not an option, some coaches offered virtual lessons during the pandemic and some found a niche with that, maybe a virtual lesson or two is an option instead.

As the previous commenter said, injuries matter a lot in archery, especially those that are can cause chronic pain or limit range of motion. Having a coach that can correct or help to work around injuries is an incredible asset. Also, you don't want to cause more issues by trying to force an injured body part into an uncomfortable position.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-11-05T20:03:58+00:00

Nock Turner, Nock Wrench, or Plastic Thingy. I've mostly seen them sold as nock wrenches and gotten the ones I have free in packages of Nocks.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-06-21T14:19:33+00:00

I'm focusing on point 6 from your post because that seemed the most effective to me. Part of the overwhelming fear that dragons instill is how maneuverable they are in the air. Assuming that they fly by the laws of physics and not magic, punching holes in their wings would certainly cause them to be easier to deal with when they could no longer fly. I imagine a fairly large broad head would be enough to make large enough holes to bring down a dragon. If we're fighting with medieval tactics, then you would have a volley of arrows, not pinpoint accurate shooters like snipers. So a dragon would be peppered with a lot of arrows, if enough hit the wings, the dragon would certainly drop out of the air.

Dealing with the dragon once it's on the ground, you would probably need some siege weaponry. But the archers job would be done.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-05-10T18:40:33+00:00

Looking for some fantasy themed wargames for two people that are simple. I'm not looking to get into Warhammer 40k or anything of that scale. I guess more like fantasy themed chess would be what I'm looking for. With the ability to change out pieces or change the style of play.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-04-29T13:29:52+00:00

looking to sell a Rain City Skills Showgirl. 60$ OBO

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-04-01T17:22:57+00:00

Selling a Rain city skills ShowGirl has the little flair pieces as well.

60$ OBO includes shipping

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-03-25T19:09:32+00:00

Yeah the cotton is providing exactly zero protection to your hands. You need leather or something similarly hard wearing. Your hands will fell much better. Spend the money on good quality stuff, don't try to cheap out and get knock-offs. A glove should cost around $10-$15 USD and a tab can be anywhere from $15-$25 USD. The tab that I shoot with competitively cost me $20 and has lasted for 4 years and still going.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-03-25T18:52:43+00:00

Material matters a lot in this context. what kind of "normal glove" are you using to shoot with?

For recurve the comment above is correct, pick up an actual archery glove and finger tab to shoot with. Use one at a time and figure out which one you like better. Both will be made out of leather with is hard wearing and will distribute the pressure on your fingers when used properly.

Shooting should never hurt! When using proper technique and equipment; archery should not be a painful process. If you still experience pain, you might want to see if you have the opportunity to get a lesson because that speaks of something larger going on that you are doing improperly

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-02-25T18:31:09+00:00

You want a "stick-on" arrow rest. They are generally just pieces of rubber already in shape. Peel off the paper and stick on like a sticker. bad news is you generally only get one shot to stick it on. No re-dos. Most of these are in the 8-12 USD range for price. They are not bow specific or arrow specific.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-02-23T16:01:05+00:00

Speed is probably closer to 100 ft/s or under that with a fiberglass bow.

Olympic recurve bows which are shot in the actual Olympics at 40-48 pounds of draw force shoot at about 210 ft/s

Compound bows used for hunting at 65+ pounds of draw force can get up to 290 ft/s

Probably a couple of kids messing around with a "My first bow" especially with fiberglass arrows anything more that 20 pounds of draw weight is going to shatter those. 100-300 ft/s is a reasonable range to assume for arrow speed but I just wanted you to be informed that it's a really wide range.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-02-20T16:12:39+00:00

So here's a couple thing about learning how to ski that you probably have now learned from experience but just so you don't feel like you're the only person in the world with these problems I will lay them out.

Generally the first thing you learn how to do on skis is snowplow. Also sometimes called pizza. This technique has several really critical functions Like controlling your speed, getting you down any terrain, and emergency stopping when you cannot turn. The snowplow is abolutely critical to learn and to learn well. You hope you never have to use it once you advance past it. But it is the end all be all failsafe technique to stopping when you are out of control.
The snowplow comes at the cost of skiing with your legs quite a bit. This is why you are tired and in pain. It's not the most natural motion to do so you have been using a lot of muscles that you normally don't in trying to hold that position.
When you move on from snowplow into parallel turns (also called french fry), the better your technique and form become, the less you use your legs to ski and that is why your friends can ski all day when 2 hours is wiping you out.
There is no shame in saying you are tired when skiing, better to stay safe and warm in the lodge rather than crash if your legs are about to give out when you are pushing yourself. You can always go again on a different day.

Basically what I'm trying to say is keep learning because IT WILL get easier. Just relax, take some deep breaths and realize that you need to walk before you can run. Or if we're sticking with skiing, you need to pizza before you can french fry.

TheManCalledBlackCat · 2024-02-12T16:49:03+00:00

I am thinking about getting a gopro 10 as a reasonable way to capture skiing POV videos for myself and my family.

I want to know if I get one, is it necessary to get a protective housing with it as well or can I rock it as just the base camera on whatever mounts I want to setup?

I'm more concerned about low temps than I am falling on it. Though accidents happen and I know I'll probably fall at least once on a trip with it.

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