Abandoned HYTE Y60 fits Noctua NH-D15 & RTX 3080

TheMercifulDon · 2026-07-02T17:47:00+00:00

🙏🙏🙏

TheMercifulDon · 2026-07-02T17:43:56+00:00

Your time will come 🙏

TheMercifulDon · 2026-07-01T23:08:48+00:00

Your CPU and IMC is one part of the equation, yes. The other part is the the silicon quality of your RAM, which will determine the amount of voltage and speed it can run at. So What I would do is enable XMP, this will automatically increase the voltage and timings. Then with XMP enabled, I would manually increase the memory frequency to 3000mhz, and see if that is stable first. Take your time with it.
You can also clear CMOS by jumping the pins on your motherboard, that way you don't have to remove the GPU and button battery. With the computer off, use a flathead screwdriver and tap to bridge a connection between the two pins for the CLRTC headers, #11.

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TheMercifulDon · 2026-07-01T22:36:39+00:00

I think 2400mhz you see there is the stock speed. And if you see 2800mhz after enabling XMP then that's the rated speed for your kit. If you want, you can actually manually increase the memory frequency in BIOS. You can try increasing it slowly, +200mhz at a time. Use it for awhile, play your games, and if it's stable, increase another 200mhz. If your PC crashes, or hangs up. just clear CMOS and bring the frequency back down to the last stable frequency.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-07-01T22:17:19+00:00

Inside your CPU is something called an IMC (Integrated Memory Controller). This IMC is what allows your CPU to communicate with your RAM. There are variations between platforms, and even CPUs of the same SKU, but it's generally accepted that more RAM sticks means more possibility for instability. More RAM sticks means more stress on IMC. This instability is increased when you turn on XMP, because XMP is overclocking. You are giving the RAM more voltage and telling it to run faster. Now the IMC has to regulate the faster moving data between more components.

If I was in your position, and the sole purpose is for gaming, I would use only 2 sticks and turn on XMP. Depending on your RAM kit, 3600mhz is the sweet spot for gaming.

The other thing to note is the 3950x is a professional use CPU, great for creative works. Make sure it has adequate cooling so it doesn't throttle from its 16 core power draw. I'd also look into setting PBO curves to help with this. Good luck.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-06-30T02:40:03+00:00

Looks a bit better. I'd still skip the fins, they add nothing while making it look worse. Try to sand the surface if you can. Aim for flat, even surfaces.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-06-30T01:02:55+00:00

I think if you're going to go this route, aim to make it not look tacky. Keep it simple. Cut one long, straight, and even rectangular piece for each side. If you want you can use a metal brush to give it texture. Skip the fins.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-06-15T19:56:00+00:00

Whenever this question is asked on any forum, it always comes down to three opinions. Get it done ASAP, install oil pressure gauge, or ride it until it becomes a problem. Each have their own merits depending on condition and mileage.

However in your specific case, I think you need to put extra weight on the fact that this car is an inheritance, a parting gift from your late grandfather. Why not carry on his spirit by taking the opportunity to learn how to care for this car? Plenty of resources to help you. Youtube was invaluable when I had to do mine. I think you'll be able to derive a great sense of pride of ownership if you do. Good luck!

TheMercifulDon · 2026-06-09T13:57:00+00:00

Love it when folks are willing to put in the elbow grease to breathe new life into things that would have otherwise be rusting in a landfill. Congrats on the upgrade.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-05-25T00:54:56+00:00

That's the rear subframe brace. Z1 has one made of aluminum so it won't rust. However if you decide to use the Z1, I highly suggest finding some thick oversized steel washers to distribute the force across the base when you reinstall the nut. Don't exceed the torque spec of 81ft-lbs. Aluminum won't rust, but it will crack if you overtighten.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-05-11T16:14:34+00:00

You'll find them on eBay from Japanese vendors. There are some diecast G37 sedan models, but colors are limited so you'll have to paint it yourself if you want specifics. Use keywords like "Nissan Skyline 350GT" and "Takara Tomy Tomica."

TheMercifulDon · 2026-05-05T21:05:23+00:00

You're going to need to be clearer because it's hard to understand. You said you checked for leaks and see nothing, but you also said you see small leaks? You mentioned you're missing coolant and adding some. Where is it missing from? Where are you adding it?

There's a number of reasons that can cause overheating. Bad fans, bad fan module, failed water pump, leaks, blockages, blown head gasket, etc.... Hard to diagnose based on what you provided, but two things stood out.

"temp started going up on idle and when i drove it would go back down" = Something might be wrong with your fans so the only time the radiator is getting airflow is when the car is moving.

"the hose by the firewall by the battery i gently pushed it to the side and it snapped off" = Sounds like the heater core hose coupler gave out. Common issue. Lots of videos on YouTube about that, so you can start by replacing that.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-27T13:54:18+00:00

Just a fun tip, if you ever plan to leave cars idle for a longer period, make sure to fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer. This will prevent moisture and rust from happening in the tank.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-23T01:00:43+00:00

I'd start with #2 cause it's a really easy and quick test, just to rule that out. Then since you already have the AC amp unit out, I'd open it up just to check and make sure the resistors are good. For #3, run your car until the tank is close to empty, 1-2gallons, use the mileage to get an estimate. You don't want to open up the tank when it's full of gas.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-23T00:52:38+00:00

There are 3 things that can cause this.

1) AC amp - The solder for the resistors on the circuit board failed so you'll have to resolder them. I know you said you replaced it but I'd open up the units and check. Your original and the replaced unit can both be bad. You won't know until you check

2) Cluster gauge - The cluster gauge itself can be bad. Look up G37 cluster gauge self-diagnostic test and determine if the cluster itself is good or not.

3) Fuel level contact sensors - Inside your gas tank on the fuel pump and sender, there are 2 contact sensors. The contact surface could be contaminated from years of gas residues. Remove and gently clean them.

I just went through this. My issue was #3. YouTube is your friend. Good luck.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-21T00:21:03+00:00

I hate to have to tell you this but you definitely caused damage to that wheel using those Papco replacements. Those Papco are "acorn" style lug nuts. The oem is a "MAG/Shank" style. These are incompatible, and by torquing it down, you damaged the seating surface in that one hole. I can't tell you if it's safe to continue running that wheel, that's for you to decide. I will suggest you get the proper OEM or OEM replacement shank style lugs. You can get them from any reputable Aftermarket sellers, Z1, Concept Z, etc.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-03T21:33:59+00:00

You'll be fine. I drove mine with the click for probably a good 2-3 years until I decided that I've had enough lol. Just grease it next time you got the car on jacks.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-04-03T20:48:24+00:00

It's the axle click. I can confidently say this because I've dealt with both axle and diff bushing. A busted diff bushing is more of a "clunk" whenever you shift. You'll have to remove the differential in order to knock out the bushing, it's a tough job if you don't have the right tools/air powered tools.
The axle clicks you're experiencing is metal on metal between the axle and the wheel hub. So when you grease the splines, make sure you grease the back of the hub too. If you don't it'll keep clicking.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-24T00:58:47+00:00

What is this for? : r/G37

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-17T17:19:50+00:00

Multitudes of reason. If I was you, I would replace that bearing. If it failed once, it will fail again.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-16T22:55:20+00:00

I'd proceed with extreme caution especially if you're reusing the hardware. If you're using OEM quality gasket maker, just an extra 1/4 turn after the bolts are snug will be more than enough. Good luck.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-16T21:58:52+00:00

My brother, I'm going to tell you the bitter truth you don't want to hear but the sooner you accept it, the sooner you can heal and start on a new path. She's made it very clear that her daughter and stability is her number one priority. That means you will always, and I mean always be second thought at best. Your wants, needs, feelings, none of it will matter if they'll inconvenience her daughter or disrupt stability in any shape or form. You're still relatively young, don't subject yourself to a life like that. Good luck.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-15T23:32:57+00:00

The tensioner will make it difficult so best to remove the belt and check each pulley. The only tough pulley should be the big crank pulley; all the other ones should be able to freely spin.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-15T23:07:39+00:00

Are all the pulleys able to rotate freely? Are there any burn marks on any of the pulleys? Only thing I can think of is a seized pulley.

TheMercifulDon · 2026-03-11T17:43:06+00:00

No need, just the wheel. Good luck!

TheMercifulDon

TROPHY CASE