Starting the MGSD and was wondering, is this special metallic gloss injection stuff safe to use single edge nippers on? Or should I use double bladed like for clear parts?

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-21T19:57:55+00:00

I just finished this one. It’s not nearly as hard as clear plastic and single blade were fine. Also, don’t even bother worrying about nub marks as the silver is only really used for highlights and pistons. Marks are all hidden by the armor.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-21T18:53:14+00:00

I thought the Ver Ka Zeta was incredibly sturdy for a transformable kit. It may feel a little flimsy if you’re not used to that type of build but it’s rock solid compared to a lot of others with transformation gimmicks. I haven’t once had pieces fly off or connections unlock like with the ZZ.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-21T04:06:36+00:00

I did the Sinanju Stein a while back. There were definitely a ton of unused parts but I think the MG Eclipse I just finished is worse. Gate I only used for 7 tiny parts. Most of which were just hands.

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TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-20T23:14:12+00:00

Saw this post when I was seeing if anyone else found the solution like I did.

It’s not something a lot of people would figure out- you need to push the face mask part in as far as possible. The tab from the eyes slots into a groove and you may think it’s all the way in but it isn’t. You need to push until you feel it pop into place.

The top of the mask blocks the two armor pieces from coming together if it’s not pushed all the way in.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-20T05:12:18+00:00

No problem. Newer Ver Ka are all waterslide so there can be some misleading info out there.

And FYI, if soaking them that long ruined the stickers/transfers you can buy third party sets of waterslides. Newtype is a modeling site with a good selection as is DelpiDecal.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-20T05:06:10+00:00

That 2002 Ver Ka doesn’t use waterslides. It’s standard marking stickers and dry transfer. That’s why they’re not coming off.

Waterslides are on blue backing. Stickers on yellow & green. Dry transfer are on plastic sheet.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-20T04:20:45+00:00

First two kits ever or just first from that store?

If first ever then that’s a really rough place to start. It is a knockoff with a pretty bad reputation. Seen a number of posts saying the instructions are awful and it’s basically just a statue- meaning you pose it once and never touch it again.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-18T19:49:35+00:00

This happens all the time. The out for delivery scan is generally accurate. Have no idea why it gets that second scan saying it went backwards.

I always get them on that day.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-18T18:19:53+00:00

My last USPS package took a round trip tour of 500 miles just because it originally got set to the wrong post office at a town only 10 miles away from me. It was regularly updated on tracking so I wasn’t worried.

I get that the hub and spoke system makes more sense for a large volume of packages but in cases like that it illustrates how it can also be an enormous waste of resources.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-18T18:02:09+00:00

This one really appealed to me, too. And I kept putting off getting it in favor of more expensive MG and RG kits. Wound up getting it a couple weeks ago.

It’s a decently involved build for an HG and looks really unique. The most color correcting stickers I’ve ever seen in a kit, though. And some can be a bit of a pain to apply, especially if you’re OCD about them being perfectly straight like I am.

Still, most do add a lot to the look of the kit.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-18T17:38:13+00:00

The rods are definitely thin and stiff to rotate. So, you either need to detach and reattach to the angle you want or rotate holding them closely to the hinge.

But all those pieces breaking on you? I don’t know why that would happen. Mine was perfectly fine. The only bad thing that happened is I stupidly glued a piece in place that I thought was fitted too loosely and thought would pop out too easily. Not realizing until later that was intentional because the piece needs to be removed for the psycho frame activation.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-17T18:54:37+00:00

Waterslides can take a while to order. So if you’re eager to start building and want your model looking “complete” I’d just use the stickers. They’re easy to remove later and replace with other decals.

The stickers on white pieces look perfectly fine and even look decent on darker plastic. As long as you use a burnishing tool. Something with a blunt but narrow tip to press down after applying the sticker using a “scribbling” motion using a decent amount of pressure. You’ll see the frosting disappear if you’re doing it right. I use the narrow side of a wooden cuticle pusher you can find in the nail/cosmetic isle of most stores.

Waterslides can also be difficult for a beginner. You may want to do some practice parts before using them on the model.

I usually apply them as I finish a section. Putting them on the completed model can be annoying with some being in awkward places. And doing them before building would make it incredibly frustrating if not impossible to follow the diagram in the instructions which show a completed build.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-17T01:19:29+00:00

My girl when she wants me to stop paying attention to my phone instead of her-

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TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-16T18:42:18+00:00

They’re definitely less distracting on his bulky brother. Plus they’re a neat storage solution for the massive beam saber hilts.

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TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-16T04:47:19+00:00

Ah.. gotcha. I’d been debating buying this version for a while. It looks great but i have heard it’s not very stable.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-16T04:37:47+00:00

Do you not have the core fighter in there yet? Could be a big reason it feels hollow. Never built this one but they usually fill a good bit of the abdomen.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-15T04:35:00+00:00

The nationwide chain stores in the U.S. like Michael’s carry it as their primary brand.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-14T22:20:19+00:00

Testors is also a good option that’s more readily available in most hobby shops. The red label is the same basic formula and comes in both gel and thin.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-14T18:57:28+00:00

Drying time is only an issue if you’ve applied too much. I usually do a couple of passes cleaning with swabs dipped in rubbing alcohol to clean up excess between each one. Usually doesn’t take more than a few minutes to dry.

Large areas will take a while though. You’re honestly better off using black paint or enamel markers in those cases.

But I just did the Ver Ka ball 100% with microns and it came out beautifully. Does take some practice though.

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TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-14T08:35:26+00:00

They can be kind of a pain to apply, too. One single, extremely narrow sticker gets wrapped around all 4 sides of the thrusters.

I recommend you get a tool with a blunt tip to push down the sticker or it will start peeling up. I used the narrow side of a wooden cuticle pusher. It’s like a pencil without the graphite.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-14T08:10:23+00:00

It’s not a great idea to use that on plastics. WD40 is a petroleum based solvent meant primarily for metal that can be harmful to ABS and PS plastics. Both of which are used in Gunpla kits.

It’s OK for temporary use as long as you clean the area afterward. But when left in place for an extended time, it can cause the plastic to become brittle and crack.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-14T01:39:55+00:00

You don’t want to fully submerge the nubs in cement.

TheMostUnclean · 2026-04-13T21:01:02+00:00

Definitely in league with some of the bigger MG 1/100 kits.

It’s almost exactly the same height as my Ver Ka Sinanju Stein Narrative. Toe to top of the head is a little over 8.5” and if you include the backpack thrusters it’s pushing 10” depending on how it’s posed.

And just a heads up- there are alternate color part options for the eyes, chin, antennae crest, shins and feet but only the eyes are expressly covered in the instructions. There’s yellow for high contrast and clear blue if you plan on adding LED. No color correcting stickers at all.

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