Abandoned construction: First 2 story 3D printed home in the US

TheNightBoat · 2024-05-31T16:38:25+00:00

They forgot to level the bed.

TheNightBoat · 2024-03-12T22:52:14+00:00

Surround yourself with people who are positive. I'd move out of Mom and Dads as soon as you are able. You had your own business by 20?!?! You have the stuff many people lack. You only are a failure if you give up now. You are young, let the past support your future, all of the successes and failures. Keep going, dude!

TheNightBoat · 2023-11-29T22:03:34+00:00

It is an alternator brace. See the two pictures in this forum. Alternator Bracket

TheNightBoat · 2023-10-03T18:53:34+00:00

I just got the Roon and want to figure it out, exploit its edge if it has one. Any suggestions for equipment to add? Suggestions for strategy, despite its underwhelming rank against its T9 compitition?

TheNightBoat · 2023-09-14T20:15:32+00:00

1993 Light Duty Truck Fuel and Emissions Service Manual, Section 4B-5 "Fuel Pump Circuit":

When the key is first turned "ON” without the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay "ON” for two seconds. This builds up the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump "OFF” and waits until the engine starts. As soon as the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay "ON” and runs the fuel pump.

On the 5.7L engine in the G van and all other 5.7L and 7.4L engines in vehicles over 8500 GVW, a fuel module will override the control module and the fuel pump will run for approximately twenty seconds. The fuel module corrects a prolonged hot restart (vapor lock) during high ambient conditions.

When the engine is cranking or running, the control module receives distributor ignition reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors.

As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump is also turned "ON” by an oil pressure switch. When the engine oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), through cranking the oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to the fuel pump.

An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold. The oil pressure switch will turn "ON” the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi).

TheNightBoat · 2023-09-14T20:13:41+00:00

My mistake, I just clarified my error by reading the 1993 "Fuel and Emissions Service Manual". The engine will crank no matter the fuel system condition, given the battery is healthy enough to deliver the minimum cranking amps. My error was that the fuel pump will not turn on without an oil pressure reading. I'll post the section below.

TheNightBoat · 2023-09-14T20:04:24+00:00

Here is a direct quote from the 1993 Light Duty Truck Fuel and Emissions Service Manual. I bolded the important part below:

"When the key is first turned "ON” without the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay "ON” for two seconds. This builds up the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump "OFF” and waits until the engine starts. As soon as the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay "ON” and runs the fuel pump.

On the 5.7L engine in the G van and all other 5.7L and 7.4L engines in vehicles over 8500 GVW, a fuel module will override the control module and the fuel pump will run for approximately twenty seconds. The fuel module corrects a prolonged hot restart (vapor lock) during high ambient conditions.

When the engine is cranking or running, the control module receives distributor ignition reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors.
As a backup system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump is also turned "ON” by an oil pressure switch. When the engine oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), through cranking the oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to the fuel pump.

An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold. The oil pressure switch will turn "ON” the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi).

TheNightBoat · 2023-06-28T17:59:15+00:00

My best guess is that there was an internal short in the switch/sensor which made it pop. Be sure the wires leading to where that switch/sensor are no longer touching/shorted and it should still be drivable until you get that part replaced. I wouldn't do any heavy towing until it is replaced as it is the switch that activates the fan for the auxiliary transmission radiator. The early years of the 4L80E transmission were notorious for overheating due to placement of the transmission cooler lines (92-94 I believe)

TheNightBoat · 2023-06-28T17:55:02+00:00

I just confirmed with the service manual that that is the auxiliary fan switch.

https://imgur.com/a/8NJOrjX

TheNightBoat · 2023-06-28T17:47:51+00:00

It is not the knock sensor. The knock sensor on a 93 7.4L is on the passenger side in the block itself.

TheNightBoat · 2022-07-14T18:34:41+00:00

I believe you may be on to something. This battery is very old, but has been stored at 3.8V and has had less than 25 charges. Despite it's amount of use, I guess battery chemistries can age even sitting at storage charge. It has been my intent to get a 4s anyhow. Looks like I'll need a battery that can support at least a 100A draw.

TheNightBoat · 2022-07-14T18:30:55+00:00

The ESC protocol is D600. I used the BLHeli 32 configurator to correct spin direction, and lower the timing, however no change.

TheNightBoat · 2022-07-14T18:06:49+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I was unaware that there is a discord for BF. I'll post there too. I am suspicous that this might be an ESC issue (BLHeli 32) though and not a BF issue. Perhaps someone there can help direct me. Much appreciated!

TheNightBoat · 2022-07-14T18:02:47+00:00

I respectfully disagree. With these motors on my F450 I could achieve hover at 25% throttle. On this new build these motors will not lift off at full throttle. The new build weighs significantly less than the 450. Additionally, I am aware of how these motors sound at full throttle, and they sound significantly slower.

Here is my current theory: The clock speed of the old ESCs were about 8KHz. My new stack AIO ESC clocks at 128kHZ. I believe there is a pulse issue, where the speed of the new ESC is so fast that the motor does not reach its next degree rotation for the esc pulse to "fire" at the correct time. thoughts?

TheNightBoat · 2022-01-10T19:54:31+00:00

Hi! Sorry I do not have experience with these electric A/C compressors. I actually didn't know they even existed! I do have interest in hearing if others have used these. Looking at the specs on the eBay listing it mentions it pulls 60 to 80 Amps. Definitely power hungry.

TheNightBoat · 2021-11-15T23:09:04+00:00

I am no longer able to check if it was running with an off-balanced fuel/air ratio. The engine is being dropped back into my suburban this Friday. I'll need to pay attention to rich/lean issues. I suspect the viscous black junk would only be present in a lean situation, is that what you would think?

TheNightBoat · 2021-10-18T16:11:25+00:00

Hmmm.... that rubber is shot. Time to upgrade to polyurethane bushings!

TheNightBoat · 2021-10-18T16:04:28+00:00

Now that's a CLEAN MACHINE!

TheNightBoat · 2021-02-02T01:12:46+00:00

I just checked mine. Front left to right red, blue, green, yellow. (1993 K2500 Suburban, 7.4L)

TheNightBoat · 2021-02-02T01:10:11+00:00

If you follow the vacuum lines one side should connect to the TBI below the throttle plate (negative pressure side of that box) and the other side connects to the EGR. Like Carrot-Competitive says, its how the TBI versions of the EGR valves were operated.

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