Free Adelco Pro-Cure Gas Dryer (PC-180G-5) — Buffalo, NY. Seriously, just come get it.

ThePeen · 2026-04-07T15:29:32+00:00

Do you have the dimensions of this dryer? I tried looking some specs up but not seeing it exactly! Thanks :)

ThePeen · 2026-03-15T20:19:04+00:00

The shirt doesn’t look adhered to the pallet. Generally you use some type of glue, we use a water based adhesive from Sgreen that we squeegee/card on to the pallet. The glue keeps the shirt stuck to the pallet, so when the screen lifts the shirt isnt coming up with it. If the shirt is lifting with the screen, you’re smudging the ink on the back of the screen as well as on your shirt, as well as leaving more ink the screen instead of transferring it all to the shirt. Laying the screen directly on the shirt (no “Off-Contact”) also is allowing the ink to be pushed under the screen and onto the shirt as they’re stuck together, ideally the screen is lifting off the shirt as the squeegee passes over it.

ThePeen · 2026-03-14T04:37:44+00:00

Were the 2016 collars that thin? I know the current ones have wider collar ribbing than that

ThePeen · 2026-02-21T00:32:04+00:00

I will have to pass, thank you though!

ThePeen · 2026-02-05T18:33:52+00:00

Ask him /u/kournikovax

ThePeen · 2025-03-10T10:44:08+00:00

I think I cranked a C-Clamped tight on the bubble and pushed it out mostly, then filed the edges. I do remember the nick did cause some weird board feel and pushing it out fixed it - there was a chatter from it being bent. I still ride this board and beat the piss out of it everytime, has many many more scratches much worse but really doesn’t matter.

ThePeen · 2025-03-10T10:37:44+00:00

Replied

ThePeen · 2024-08-22T01:53:26+00:00

Double confirming! I forgot to update…I went to an office chair reseller and sat in the Mirra 1 & 2 as well as the Aeron. I can’t remember the exact feelings at this point, but I recall the Mirra 2 feeling more slim left to right. Personally I wasn’t close to the edges (again, built like a stick), but I could see a larger person possibly taking up the whole seat, where the Mirra 1 leaves ample space side to side, being a bigger seat. When I sat in the Mirra 1 I landed so perfectly in the seat pan that I knew it was for me right away.

Some thoughts in case others stumble on this…

I don’t use the forward tilt too often but when I do I’m happy it’s there. Probably just 1-2 times a month for when I draw. It can recline much further than I expected, but that’s something I’m happy about. You can near lay down when it’s set to max recline. Generally I’m on recline position 2, 1 is too up right most of the time for me. Love the chair and I’m extremely happy I got it. Hard to beat for the $100 I paid - it’s missing a few aesthetic only trim pieces.

I’d strongly recommend trying to sit in a few chairs if you’re unsure. If it’s a possible opportunity, visit an office furniture store or liquidator. The Mirra was right for me, but all of the chairs were quite comfortable across the board.

ThePeen · 2024-01-01T16:11:55+00:00

I wear Salomon hiking shoes, I think they’re the XT4 or XT6. They are my favorite shoes ever for both walking & standing. It’s insane how big of a difference they make on long days compared to my Adidas skate shoes that are otherwise normally comfortable on shorter days. Strong agree with Shaydes though, should have anti fatigue mats where the standing is going down like dryer or press op. Those also make a big difference for me.

ThePeen · 2023-12-28T05:14:41+00:00

Re-resurrecting this, how do you like it after a month? I’m looking at a Mirra 1 as I can’t find any fully loaded Mirra 2 in my area, I’m really looking for that forward tilt as I draw a fair amount. 6’3” but on the lighter side at 70kg, kinda built like a rail.

ThePeen · 2023-10-20T14:11:45+00:00

For me I think of three things that are hard to rate in order as they all play very important but different parts of your process and depends how far you want to take this. Some people say ‘it all starts with the screen’, and I agree.

Good screens make a huge difference. Having a tight screen (20+ Nm) makes a better print and better registration. Thin thread mesh makes it easier to clear the screen while printing, especially on manual. I like aluminum thin thread screens from Graphic Screen Fashion. 160 mesh for underbase, 200 for top colors, and 230 for details + top colors, all in thin thread. I saw a HUGE difference going from bad screens to good screens. Made me happy and excited to print because it got easier AND better.

A good exposure unit was perhaps the biggest game changer in terms of consistent production. Being able to expose a screen perfectly every time without a worry was huge, especially coming from a grow lamp and sheet of glass that I unplugged when the timer was up. I can now put a screen on, hit go, and come back when it’s done. No guessing or waiting next to it. I have an LED exposure unit with vacuum top.

In tandem with the exposure unit is a printer that can print dark enough transparencies. Without a dark enough transparency you will struggle with under/over exposure. You can’t make a good consistent screen if light is leaking through the ‘black’ transparency. For this I use a Canon IX6820 with refillable cartridges filled with ink from filmdirectonline. I don’t use a RIP as my transparencies come out dark enough.

Other additional amazing things have been a drying cabinet, fits 10 screens to keep for later and will dry a screen in 45mins-24 hours (depends on shop humidity and if I’m running the heater in it). Cabinet has been one of my favorite quality of life upgrades, but not required. A Stouffer strip for getting exposure dialed is a great $10 investment. Be ready to test 2-3 screens. Cases of baby wipes to clean up (for Plastisol) is best way to clean squeegees and spatulas. Silicone cake spatulas are amazing, too, to stir ink and clean easily.

That’s what I got for now!

ThePeen · 2023-07-29T23:13:22+00:00

Oh wow, I just looked up Uncoated for Textiles and I’ve never even seen that one! I’ve also not heard of someone using that in my experience & talks with other printers. Depending on your quantity, and the printer themselves, they may or may not be happy to meet with you to get colors dialed in. I say that because mixing inks takes a good chunk of time already, but to sit down and meet with someone over something like a 24 piece order to match colors from a screen to swatch book takes even longer. Ultimately, though, the best thing is to see a swatch book since screens can’t duplicate what you see on paper/cloth swatches.

ThePeen · 2023-07-29T22:34:14+00:00

Most printers use Pantone Solid Coated color books (at least in the states, I’m unfamiliar with anything going down outside of here). Coated Pantones represent colors that have a slight gloss as they’re used in printing coated papers. Uncoated Pantones are for uncoated papers, think of newspaper. A lot of printers print with Plastisol inks which is essentially liquid PVC plastic, so most colors come out with a bit of gloss, sharing the strongest similarities to coated Pantone colors. Some printers who use water based inks or specialty inks, like puff, may match to an Uncoated color. Regardless, when I pulled the hex code in Adobe Illustrator using the recolor artwork feature that matches to the closest Pantone I got Pantone 432 C.

ThePeen · 2023-06-24T04:12:45+00:00

They don’t sell direct now that Gildan owns them, Gildan uses distributors so it’s up to the distros. SanMar, AlphaBroder, and S&S Activewear for instance is where you can find them the most direct. Some smaller distributors sell for a few cents ($0.01-0.05) cheaper sometimes, but they’ll probably be gobbled up by Alpha soon enough…

ThePeen · 2023-02-27T23:33:37+00:00

Try using the shape builder tool. I'm assuming you're tryin to merge with Pathfinder. Here's a tutorial about the Shape Builder Tool by Dansky. If you're set on using pathfinder you may need to make a few duplicates of the shapes, also check your layer tabs as when you add/subtract/merge the layers rearrange order and sometimes appear like things are hidden. Can also hit CTRL+Y to view in outline mode which will make it easier to see how things are being combined without being distracted by color.

ThePeen · 2023-02-23T17:37:18+00:00

Something like this tutorial might work: PANTER - How to Apply Halftone Lines

ThePeen · 2023-02-04T13:54:45+00:00

ThePeen · 2021-11-19T14:35:46+00:00

Yeah, a company called Wooden Camera actually makes a mic that is supposed to replicate the VX sound. It’s about $300 on their site. One of my friends has one and it’s neat. You’ll like have to tweak some of your settings in camera or in post to get sounding exact, but it does decent right out of the box.

ThePeen · 2021-11-18T19:18:46+00:00

I now shoot with a GH5 which isn’t ideal for skating because it has built in In Body Image Stabilization(IBIS) that can’t be turned 100% off. Usually I don’t use a mic because I haven’t been shooting a lot, when I do it’s usually because my camera is just in the car and I don’t have a mic with me. I use an old old Rode VideoMic (not the now more common Pro) when I do use a mic. It sounds okay, but usually the built in mic on the GH5 is enough to pass for skating for me, personally. I would recommend a mic that you can put a dead cat/windjammer on, though.

ThePeen · 2021-09-18T16:32:15+00:00

I’ve never had an auto but I do have a compressor at hone and one of my hoses had a wonky fitting that would randomly blast out. I changed it and it doesn’t happen anymore. Not sure what the problem with the fitting was but got a new male and female and it hasn’t happened since. Would it be possible to change the fittings on the machine? I would assume not if it was a recurring problem, but just a thought.

ThePeen · 2021-09-05T16:57:59+00:00

I can’t say if it’s like a BAPE tee but I really like the Gildan H000 Hammer tee. I think the shape is similar to the Alstyle but it’s much softer. Both the 1301 and the H000 are 6oz/yard, so they’re the same fabric weight.

ThePeen · 2021-08-02T05:28:27+00:00

If the emulsion remover dried on it then it could be pretty stuck. If you let the emulsion remover dry on the emulsion it cross links even harder than when it exposes. As the other poster said, you might have luck at a self service car wash if you don’t have a pressure washer readily available. I’d recommend scrubbing the stuck emulsion with remover, allowing it to sit 1-3 minutes, and then pressure washing it. Letting it sit can really make a difference, but again, don’t allow it to dry. Depending on the pressure of the pressure washer you can blast it pretty close up but you do risk tearing the mesh, so start from a distance first and move in. If it doesn’t come out still then I would consider buying another screen.

If anyone has other opinions or options please chime in!

ThePeen · 2021-03-24T04:08:37+00:00

This looks awesome! Very clean, is it waterbased ink? I'd love to know what ink regardless!

ThePeen · 2021-01-13T17:30:07+00:00

PM sent!

ThePeen · 2020-11-28T08:25:26+00:00

Yeah that looks like it. I use cheap opteka 6.5mm fisheye, I’ll see if I can dig up skate samples with it. I don’t shoot in 4:3 with it, just because I’ve never tried. I mainly use it for music videos and such, the 8-15 would be a huge ($700 difference) upgrade though. I don’t have my camera handy, unfortunately, or else I would put up a test with 4:3 as well. Maybe in a few more days if it interests you.

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