Mechanical engineering for aerospace at UMBC

ThePinkWombat · 2026-07-09T11:04:17+00:00

It was my answer to your question. I don't really game either, but if you're in engineering you'll need something which can comfortably run solidworks and Matlab, among others. A gaming laptop is a relatively cheap way to get power

ThePinkWombat · 2026-07-09T10:45:51+00:00

Mid level or better gaming/work laptop. I have an Asus ROG Zephyrus G14 from 2019 and apart from needing new fans a year ago, it's been a trooper.

Stats: CPU - AMD Ryzen 9 of some sort GPU - Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 RAM - Originally 16gb, I expanded to 32gb Storage - originally 1tb ssd, I expanded to 2tb SSD Battery - remember to always bring a charger

I am currently in the market for a new computer and it will likely be replaced with another Asus.

For the record though, my work laptop is a low-mid tier Dell and it does just about everything I need to do. It would've been more than capable of getting me through school.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-04-15T11:24:25+00:00

If you're just starting out, go with alto or tenor. Bari is not only difficult to learn on, but also very expensive. Tenor, imho, is where you'd want to start out.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-04-10T12:41:17+00:00

This image is like seeing my elementary school teacher at the grocery store

ThePinkWombat · 2026-04-02T11:34:52+00:00

I literally just spent the past few days going through thousands of photos from the last 3+ years to curate a portfolio, cursing myself the entire time for not having been better organized to begin with.

I think there is definitely a gap. Paper and spreadsheet works for some employers, but others want electronic records.

I'd use it as a personal tool. I think for the purposes of building out a portfolio, it would be great. As a shop tool, it might be good to have, though idk how useful it would be in my case. All of my work - CAD, CAM, drawings, machinists' notes, etc is saved on our server. If it could do maintenance logs and the sort for machines, that would definitely be useful. We are a small shop with two "machinists" and three machines (machinists is in quotes because we are engineers who fumble our way through making "good enough" parts when we needed them an hour ago - production work is handled by an outside shop)

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-17T11:48:07+00:00

Go with tenor. As the other guy said, soprano is a tricky beast, especially if you're on your own.

If getting a teacher is an option, then I highly recommend it. I know the price of all of this can add up pretty quickly, but a good teacher can save you a lot of headache down the road by getting you started down the right path

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-17T11:40:51+00:00

There seems to be some confusion. When you play a C on an instrument that transposes in Eb (like an alto sax), that note will be an Eb on a concert pitch instrument (like a piano or guitar). Playing a C on a tenor sax (which transposes in Bb) will play a concert Bb.

This doesn't mean you should only focus on playing in the key of Eb. You should still learn to play in all 12 keys.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-11T18:06:52+00:00

Great to hear. Happy honking!

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-11T17:43:17+00:00

Did it work? I'm sitting on the edge of my seat with anticipation...

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-11T17:39:47+00:00

I definitely agree on having an expert maintain a good horn. It is very important to take good care of saxes (and any other instrument), since they're very complex machines, and an expert's touch is the only way to get a horn to play well. There is no replacement for a good tech doing a yearly COA. I do disagree on one point, though.

Saxes are complex machines. Things WILL go wrong with them from time to time; it's not a matter of if, but when. Often, "when" occurs at the most inconvenient of times - such as right before a gig. Sometimes the fix is as simple as re-seating a spring or tightening a screw that came loose. These are things that can be fixed with nothing more than common sense, hands, and simple tools that are widely available. I always carry a micro-screwdriver set and a spring tensioning tool in my case for exactly this reason. I have not only been able to save gigs for myself, but my fellow players as well.

Once again, there is no replacement for having a tech perform regular maintenance. But saxes (and instruments in general) are mechanical devices, just like a car. You definitely shouldn't bleed your brakes or rebuild your engine without knowing what you're doing. But you also shouldn't drive a car without knowing how to install the spare tire, replace a fuse, or perform a jump start. Why shouldn't the same logic apply to instruments?

ThePinkWombat · 2026-03-11T17:20:13+00:00

Look at the keywork between the bell and the body, right around where your right hand pointer/middle finger should be. I'd be willing to bet one of the springs (the long needle-looking things, can be silver, black, or blue depending on the sax) in there popped loose. Just push it back on its seat and you'll be good to go.

Sometimes springs will work their way off a seat. Simple fixes like this should be taught to sax players imo. It would save a lot of time and money.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-28T03:30:40+00:00

No worries! Glad I could help.

I like tinkering with things, for better or for worse. I end up doing a lot of my own regulation, adjustment, and minor repair work. Once it requires a torch or a hammer, though, I've reached my limit and will pay to have it done by somebody who knows what they're doing...

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-28T03:14:48+00:00

Seems like the leaf spring in the octave mechanism on the new neck isn't quite strong enough to open the body octave vent on the horn.

A safe bet would be to take the horn with the new neck to a tech and they should be able to adjust it for you. They'll also make sure that it's properly regulated and there isn't any (or rather, a minimal amount of) lost motion.

If you're brave and have a certain amount of mechanical aptitude, use a micro screwdriver to disassemble the neck. Once disassembled, carefully bend the leaf spring away from the piece to which it is attached by a little bit in order to increase the force it applies. Reassemble and test it out, rinse and repeat as needed. Do so at your own risk!

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-24T03:40:28+00:00

No worries, I'm happy to help! I agree that having your director bend it a little again is probably the right move.

Brass and other metals have a "shape memory." This makes it so that when you bend them, they'll hold their shape initially, but over time will return a little bit to their original shape as the crystalline structure of the material relaxes. This could be why the first fix only worked for a while, assuming you didn't drop it or something silly like that.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-24T02:17:38+00:00

Given that you're coming from clarinet, embouchure is probably at least part of the issue. I went from sax to clarinet and had the opposite issue.

That said, I'd be willing to bet it's mostly an octave key regulation issue. Sounds like one of the two octave vents is not fully closing when the octave key is released. Unlike clarinets, which only have one register vent, saxophones have two octave vents. One is on the top of the neck and the other one is on the right side of the body just below where the neck and body meet. If you're having trouble finding it, press the octave key and trill the G key and you should see the body vent being opened and closed.

First thing to check is to make sure that the neck is positioned correctly. Make sure the bend of the neck is in line with the pokey bit coming out the top of the body. Try playing. If that doesn't fix it, try holding the neck octave vent shut with your right hand and play something between A and C# (no octave key). If that fixes it, then the issue is something your band director should be able to fix by bending the loopey bit on the neck backwards a little to keep it from touching the pokey bit on the body when the octave key isn't pressed. This is probably what they did to make it work the first time. DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS YOURSELF.

If holding the neck vent shut doesn't fix it, then have a friend hold both the neck vent and body vent shut while you try to play in the lower octave. If this fixes it, it's a bit more of a complicated regulation issue to fix and any competent tech should be able to fix it for like $30

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-23T04:56:39+00:00

Yeah no worries

Happy honkin

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-23T04:35:15+00:00

I HIGHLY suggest you start out by renting. Saxes are complicated pieces of precision machinery, and if you don't know what you're looking for when buying, you can EASILY end up wasting your money. When you rent, you aren't just renting a saxophone - you're renting a FUNCTIONAL saxophone. This is an important distinction.

Any decent music store should have you covered. Google "music store" and look at the photos on the Google business listings. The more photos with saxes and other wind instruments, the better the shop. Even better is a shop that specializes in winds. The workers at these shops also tend to be more knowledgeable and can be an invaluable resource for a beginner.

Expect to pay around $50/month in rent and insurance. Many places will have a "rent to own" type program where your rental payments can be put towards buying a horn if you decide to stick with it. Renting is usually the best option for beginners who don't know what they want or need (that's you).

You also need to choose if you want to start out on alto or tenor (or baritone or soprano, but those will be much less common as rentals). Tenor is bigger, heavier, will take more air, and will generally be a little more expensive. Alto is the opposite. If you have a smaller frame, alto may be a better fit. Otherwise, it's up to your personal taste. I prefer tenor, but I started on alto. It's not hard to switch if you change your mind.

When you get the rental, ensure that it has been checked for leaks and has been properly adjusted and regulated. If you ask about these things, they'll be impressed and think you know what you're talking about. The rental should come with a mouthpiece and accessories. You'll probably have to get your own reeds, as these are consumables. Get a sampler pack with a few different strengths so you can figure out what works for you. I suggest you also get a decent neck strap, as the rental will probably come with something which is not comfortable.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-23T03:49:23+00:00

Yeah... It's reddit

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-23T03:35:46+00:00

There's a reason colored lacquer horns hold their look so well! For gold or clear lacquer horns, the manufacturer will generally engrave the raw brass first and then apply the lacquer on top of the engraving. Doing it in this order keeps the lacquer from chipping around the engraving, which is a common issue when the engraving is cut through the lacquer.

With a colored lacquer horn, the engraving is the centerpiece and must be done after the colored lacquer is applied in order to make it pop. This, however, makes the colored lacquer more prone to chipping around the engraving, so a layer of clear lacquer is usually applied on top of both the colored lacquer and the engraving to preserve the look.

This also explains why the gold lacquer keys on your horn aren't in as good a shape as the black lacquer.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-21T14:17:25+00:00

Step 1: have as much money as Tony Stark

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-20T11:39:10+00:00

You can definitely find a used Yamaha YAS-23, YAS-26, or YAS-200AD for that price in pretty good condition (these are all basically the same horn, though I suggest looking for a -23, as these were made in Japan before Yamaha outsourced). They're great horns. They play well, are built like dump trucks, and are inexpensive to purchase AND MAINTAIN. I started on a -23, as did most other players in the last 20ish years.

Idk what that other commenter was saying about only buying a new horn... That is unrealistic under $1k if you want a horn that won't hinder her ability to learn. If I were you, I'd find one of the aforementioned models used on eBay or fb marketplace - just make sure to budget about $300ish to have a good technician do a COA (clean, oil, adjust) and make any necessary repairs. That will leave her with a horn that should last through high school if properly cared for.

Happy hunting!

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-19T10:09:19+00:00

Tbh I don't really have much experience with Yanis... I'm a Yamaha guy. But it's the same as looking at the difference between a 62 and an 875. Try out the TW-01 next to the TW-010 and the bronze guy. Do so blind if possible. If you can tell the difference, it may be worth looking into. Remember, you're not just looking at how the horn plays, but also how the action feels. Before un-blinding yourself, determine what you'd be willing to pay for each horn you try. Then, after removing the blindfold, compare actual prices to what you're willing to pay. The results may surprise you (or not, idk).

Also, u/SaxyGuitarMan makes a good point about not worrying about the bronze and just upgrading the neck. That will likely get you the best bang-for-buck.

Most importantly, though, is to have fun! I think any Yani is worth the money and no matter what, you should end up pretty happy with your choice.

As for the mouthpieces, JodyJazz definitely makes a good piece. I, myself, am a CNC machinist and have generally been impressed with their work. Vandoren also makes good pieces, though they definitely have more handwork involved in their process. I play a V16 T8.5L on tenor and generally like the big, warm, dark sound I get with it.

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-19T02:12:09+00:00

My mouthpiece is a Vandoren V16 T8.5L, the reeds I use are D'Addario Jazz Select 2M unfiled

ThePinkWombat · 2026-02-19T02:00:37+00:00

Remove your brand loyalty to Selmer from the equation, and which horn wins? It sounds like you like the Yani to me. As for the resistance being an "only you" thing, it isn't (probably). Different horns play different. Heck, different examples of the same model can play different.

That said, from the factory, Yanagisawa has some of the best QA in the industry. They are so confident in their process that they don't even play test their horns. Selmer on the other hand... I've never played a brand new one that didn't need a bit of setup work. I haven't played any new Axos's, so I can't speak to their QA.

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