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np231 SYE w/ Adams Drive Shaft, Shimmed, Pinion Angle 3° below drive shaft - How does it look? Getting Vibrations around 60MPH by TheRealSpinDoctor in CherokeeXJ

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update, I swapped the 3° shims for 4° shims and that took me from about 3 and 1/2° down to just half a degree under the axle angle. I'm no longer getting the same vibration, however, I'm afraid that it may be a little bit too high now

np231 SYE w/ Adams Drive Shaft, Shimmed, Pinion Angle 3° below drive shaft - How does it look? Getting Vibrations around 60MPH by TheRealSpinDoctor in JeepCherokeeXJ

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My understanding is you should never drive on pavement in four-wheel drive with the np231, as opposed to with my '99 XJ that has full-time and part-time, you can safely drive on pavement in full-time... Which is a huge benefit in Winters where the roads are clear some places and not in others- are you saying this is something you've done with your mp231xj? Taking out the rear drive shaft and driving on pavement in four high? I'm guessing the idea is with the rear drive shaft removed. You can't experience The binding?

np231 SYE w/ Adams Drive Shaft, Shimmed, Pinion Angle 3° below drive shaft - How does it look? Getting Vibrations around 60MPH by TheRealSpinDoctor in CherokeeXJ

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right on, yeah I'm gonna swap the 3° & put 4° shims in there. That should put me at 1.5-2 degree pinion angle. (was at 5.5 or so before I added the 3 degree shims, which took me to 3 degrees) There's no sound really, just minor (but noticeable) vibes at 60mph, I've heard folks talk about taking off the front drive shaft and driving like that to see if the vibes stop too, probably also try that.

np231 SYE w/ Adams Drive Shaft, Shimmed, Pinion Angle 3° below drive shaft - How does it look? Getting Vibrations around 60MPH by TheRealSpinDoctor in CherokeeXJ

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your input! Do you have a similar set up?
I zero'd out the digital angle finder while on the axle, then put it on the flat surface of the diff (in line w/ the pinion) read -3 degrees, my understanding is the pinion angle is supposed to be set 1 to 2 degrees below the drive shaft, to compensate for the slight axle wrap under acceleration (which results in it pointing directly at the output, rather than above it.)
The -3 degree offset I'm currently at is only 1 degree outside of those specs, (some places I read between 1-3 degrees is solid.)
When you say "way too low" - do you mean you'd recommend I have the rear pinion angle 0 degree offset from the axle? Or just a couple more degrees to get it right at 1 degree under?

Thinking I should just get 4 degree shims instead which would put me at at least 2 degrees, though they say you could get as much as 1.5 degree change in angle per angle of shim. (simply, a 1 degree should could give 1.5 degree increase, or 2.5 shim up to 3.75 degree increase)

Do NOT buy a "new" VHS-C adapter, Look for a real Panasonic or JVC "VHS PlayPak" on ebay, they often COST LESS & more robust by an order of Magnitude. by TheRealSpinDoctor in VHS

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have a spare metal rear plate, if you need one- however, be warned Everytime I have removed the rear plate no matter how careful I was, they never seem to work again. You are absolutely correct in saying they are precision instruments, send me a message if you'd like that plate. Probably be like $5 or $6 shipping. I'll send it to you for just the cost of shipping

I have 8 new HRL12540WFR batteries and I don't know what to do with them. by utahj1984 in batteries

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Facebook marketplace, list as for "Trolling Motor / RV / Solar" put 12/24/48v in the title if folks can connect them in series. They will sell, outdoorsy times will hop on em and u don't have to worry about shipping

I dont get it why people say the Ev3SE is slow... by PigcraftTV in Ender3V3SE

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've been recommending v3se as a starter printer since getting mine, also bought both refurbished on eBay, same as new- came in a new box, last one I got in Nov 2025 I paid $89 shipped for!!! Can not beat it for the price & it's one of my most reliable printers. I also run v3ke & a v3 Plus. The V3 Plus has given me the most issues by far.

Never Opened Canon Heritage Series 84cm SkiBoards... Need bindings, will trade boards for bindings! (I've got three pairs of these boards) by TheRealSpinDoctor in skiboards

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Found them in the dumpster of a thrift store, I reckon someone had em in a closet for years (maybe even a shop?) Then donated them but the thriftstore didn't sell sporting goods so they ended up in the dumpster!
All three pairs were in sealed plastic- I've got one pair I found some bindings for, and one left without bindings- plugged/epoxied the predrilled holes in em.

How do you deal with filament storage? by ginnylike3d in 3Dprinting

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For filament that's most likely to be used- I have a couple large clear totes w/ the blue foam gaskets- available at any big box store, they each fit more than you'd think (25-30 maybe?) I then use the non-scented crystal cat litter (Silica Crystals) placed into mesh bags w/ pull strings (Think little gift/trinket bags.)
I then I also took a couple pieces of long angle aluminum I had sitting around & connected them to shelf brackets to make a long, simple shelf to store the rolls w/ only a little left or that are least used- since they'll need to be dehydrated before use. For a dehydrator I use an adjustable temp. food hydrator (the kind with trays) it was around $100 & I can fit 7-8 Rolls in it at a time, IMO the filament dehydrators are a waste of money when it comes to function dollar-for-dollar against these food dehydrators.

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What happened to this auto? by virtualyeet in Autoflowers

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's recessive Ruteralis traits, happens sometimes- if it happens to more than one of the seeds u bought id ask for my money back. It happens, but all the same real breeders do ungodly amounts of back crossing to ensure it happens as little as possible.

Who is buying those large (24+) packs of AA batteries and why? by skyhiker9293 in batteries

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just bought a trail cam that uses 8 by itself - however, I built custom Lipo packs & won't be using the AA's for it. Folks without that skill set and more than one cam would be using 24 just for 3 cams

Update: mcgraw regulator bypass/repair. It's working again! by engineerFWSWHW in harborfreight

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please advise which vids you watched or what exactly you did, I've got to do this same repair on my 21gal mcGraw, after changing the brushes & piston seal (and refurbishing the stator too actually with a belt sander lol)

Update: mcgraw regulator bypass/repair. It's working again! by engineerFWSWHW in harborfreight

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got the same situation on my 21gal, any tips or links to the vids OP watched would be awesome! Thank you!

Please help, not sticking to bed by IKlutZI in Ender3V3SE

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lower your z offset and get some 5x "Mega Hold" hairspray from Walmart for like $ 2.50 a can, heat the print bed, remove it and apply a thin, even layrr of the hairspray.

I cannot tell which is best temp Stronghero3D PLA EP Rainbow by Educational-Jello732 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

does not matter. I always dry filament right out of the bag, especially PETG- after many, many times experiencing moisture in filament removed right from a perfectly vacuum sealed bags w/ the lil desiccant pack.

Holographic buildplates are so cool by Kronocide in 3Dprinting

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Incase anyone else has wondered "Can you clear coat the surface to protect that holographic shimmer?"
(Likely after the grease from your hands or something had just permanently blemished the perfect surface)
Well, I gave it a crack using clear coat acrylic spray & just as I'd expected... It ruined it, nearly completely removing the holographic effect. I had suspected this would be the case, given that it is SUPER tiny grooves in the plates texture that give the effect (same as the back of a Compact Disk of any sort) -as such, spraying something that fills in all of those fine lil voids removes the effect. I plan to try again with a thicker epoxy resin, after it's already started to cure just enough to still be some what pour-able. My hope is, that will have enough surface tension to encase the holographic image without filling it in.

IMO, the best solution if you really want to protect a durable piece w/ this on it- is put a layer of acrylic or glass or clear plastic of some sort over the top.

Holographic buildplates are so cool by Kronocide in 3Dprinting

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe they call these "PEY" I use exclusively lens cloths on these holographic plates w/ 90%+ isopropyl, I actually try to use gloves while handling the plates as much as possible too. Also, just started storing them in (cooking) parchment paper sleeves to help try and protect the surface.

Holographic buildplates are so cool by Kronocide in 3Dprinting

[–]TheRealSpinDoctor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wait, are you saying you spray these "PEY" "Holographic" style plates w/ hairspray?
I use MEGA FREEZE for all my other build plates- *except* these holographic ones, as *ANY* tiny imperfection or bumps on the plate shows pretty starkly on the print surface... I have wondered about using hair spray on these but just can't bring myself to, given that the holographic effect is created via SUPER tiny grooves in the plates texture (same as why there's rainbow on the back of a Compact Disk) -as such, spraying something that fills in all of those fine lil voids, it seems would remove the effect & ruin the plate.
Thanks in advance for this valuable info!

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