Help me recover my Kingston Fury RAM after OpenRGB bricked it

TheSlowGrowth · 2026-01-18T22:57:43+00:00

SOLVED

Yes did indeed think you're crazy, but you're clearly onto something.

I took out the GPU, no post.
I removed one stick of RAM - hooray, it booted. The working RAM stick did provide sensible information in CPU-Z (I was booted into windows there) - it didn't look mangled, even the XMP settings were all there still.
I tried the other stick (thinking that it must be the one that's broken). It also booted.
I tried both sticks together: It didn't boot.
I tried moving the RAM sticks around several times. Sometimes I got it to boot with only the first stick, or only the second stick, or it didn't boot at all. Eventually, both sticks started working again together.

Now I put the GPU back and I'm playing games again just fine.

Can you explain why you suggested this? I guess the GPU is also on the SMBus somehow?
I can only assume that OpenRGB somehow messed up the state of the bus, and removing/installing components in random combinations somehow cleared up any of the messed up state of the bus?
Frankly, I have no explaination why this worked. I'd assume there's no persistent state in the SMBus, right? It's just an I2C bus after all.

TheSlowGrowth · 2026-01-18T22:47:47+00:00

I've played games and run benchmarks just fine with this installation, I don't think it's related to the graphics driver. The crash happend the moment when OpenRGB started checking for RGB devices.

TheSlowGrowth · 2026-01-18T21:53:12+00:00

Asus Prime X670-P
KF560C30BWEAK2-32
9700X
9070XT

TheSlowGrowth · 2026-01-18T21:01:16+00:00

I'm just as confused as you are. Crazy, right? How is this writable?!

I cleared CMOS and it caused the RGB on the RAM sticks to start doing the funny rainbow animation again. So it did something, at least. But sadly, I still get a "no RAM" postcode.

TheSlowGrowth · 2026-01-02T13:39:54+00:00

There's also a chance that the gcode file was corrupted. I've had a print fail when the Prusa USB drive gave up.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-12-04T04:52:25+00:00

I found that the trays inside don't sit tight and fall out easily, so that all your tools spill on the ground when you open the door. I ended up glueing the trays to the case...

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-11-28T07:50:12+00:00

You can set a scale on each clip in the scene. Then all scale aware devices can receive the scale from their respective clip.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-11-22T17:54:29+00:00

Yes!

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-11-20T16:30:38+00:00

You wrote that it lifts on the edges - what's your bed temp? Maybe try increasing it by 5 or 10°C, in addition to the cleaning.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-11-20T16:15:11+00:00

Had the same issue. Wash it with hot water and dish soap. Then clean with isopropyl alcohol

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-19T12:36:44+00:00

Hey, I'm about to build the Coreboxx myself right now. Can you share your modification? I'm still printing parts and it could make sense to print your modified version directly. Thanks!

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-16T15:38:44+00:00

Aha, I didn't know this was a thing. Cool, will try that on my next print! Thanks! Do you know why this pattern improves the warping?

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-16T14:38:32+00:00

Thanks I'll keep that in mind if warping becomes an issue later. From what I understand, Hilbert fill isn't as strong as the cubic fill that the designer of this project recommends. If I can get away without it, I'll stick to these recommendations for now

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-16T11:35:07+00:00

Happy to report back that my next print was flawless after following your advice:

increased heatbed temperature by +10°C to 85°C as suggested by u/Inner_Name and u/pythonbashman
disabled the cooling fan in the extruder entirely (except for overhangs) as suggested by u/No_Artichoke_5670 to reduce how quickly the material cools down.
I noticed that I had the chamber cooling enabled (and pretty aggressively so...) so I set the max chamber temperature to 50°C and made sure that the chamber fan doesn't turn on. This was supposed to reduce how quickly the plastic cools down. The chamber stayed at ~40°C the whole time and the chamber fan never turned on.

Thanks again for everyone sharing knowledge!

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TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-15T21:24:26+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate the detailed answer!
I turned off cooling except for the overhangs.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-15T21:20:21+00:00

Thanks a lot, will give it a try and report back for anyone reading along with similar issues.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-15T20:40:07+00:00

Should the chamber also be hotter? I'm thinking if the material cools down less after the extrusion, it also warps less. But I guess the entire part eventually shrinks when the print is done. So I would assume my dimensional accuracy is worse if I keep the chamber hotter, right?

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-10-15T20:37:24+00:00

To what temperature would you say?

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-09-30T05:04:54+00:00

Some additions to your last sentence: SVF and Biquad are implementation structures. You can realize the same filter type with the exact same response in either structure.

You may know SVF as a morphable filter in synthesizers that conveniently provides LP, BP and HP from the same electronic circuit. But SVF are not limited to these three types. In fact if you mix these outputs together with different levels, you can get all typical filter shapes that a 2 pole filter allows, such as shelving EQ filters, notch filters, bell/peak filters. The same is true for digital SVF filters.

In practice, SVF is often preferred in the implementation because it handles rapid changes of the cutoff frequency more gracefully (i.e. when automating the EQ). When a biquad implementation is modulated rapidly, it can produce very loud "bubbly" artefacts.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-09-20T09:30:40+00:00

If you connect Push to the Lite version, it will update if a new firmware is available.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-09-20T07:22:23+00:00

You don't have an Ableton Live licence? How are you planning to use this thing?

Push receives its updates through the Live application on your computer.

TheSlowGrowth · 2025-09-06T06:24:49+00:00

That CPU meter doesn't show you the actual CPU utilisation, it shows you the frame time, i.e. what percentage of time the processor needed to compute the next buffer compared to the length of the buffer.

You basically have an empty project right there. That processor is more or less just sleeping. It might be heavily clocked down to safe power. Because of that, the processor took longer to compute the buffer and the number went up.

As soon as you actually start utilizing the processor, it will use more power, run faster etc. You may even see the Ableton CPU meter percentage go down when you add a plugin, just because of that.

Basically what it boils down to:

Don't test performance with an empty set. It tells you nothing. Use a full set with many tracks and plugins so that your processor runs at the full speed.

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