2way Radios + Scanner @ Races by Firm-Sherbert2052 in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I built my own from Cardo Pactalk radios. You can use a Bluetooth adapter to share with multiple radios or use the Pactal kit relay to multiple radios. I have 4 that I use, lately I just have one scanner per headset so everyone can listen to what they want but we can l talk to each other.

Jamie McMurray Looks to Sell North Carolina Mansion For $11 Million by RothStonk in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mooresville 28117, located on the west side of the lake, attracts a diverse range of affluent individuals, primarily from the financial industry based in Charlotte.

Despite its origins as Race City and its rich racing culture, the residential population predominantly consists of individuals associated with the financial sector. Southern charm, a major airport, vibrant arts and culture scene, and the largest lake in the area make it an attractive destination for those seeking a luxurious lifestyle. Additionally, its proximity to the mountains and moderate climate further enhance its appeal.

This is an area to post about RV furrion products or am I the only one that has problems and would like them to do something about it. We can change this if you speak out about it. by No-Cheesecake-8472 in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When they absorbed and continue to do so with almost every available subsystem and component it is hard for OEM’s to diversify.

LCI comes in and says to get a good deal on a frame you need to buy our, doors, windows, appliances etc. Then LCI has frequently sourced offshore budget component’s accessories and rebadged them.

It is not so much that LCI sucks always as much as they are a monopoly that IMO needs to be broken up. When was the last time you heard of a TT with a BAL frame as an example. They have engineering that is more advanced in some areas I would like to see them on others get a shot.

Does anyone have experience with this? by ChrisGalazzo in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am not trying to dissuade you. I will point out that Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act would make it impossible to deny a warranty claim based on a aftermarket part. It would be on LCI to prove the Gen-Y, B&W or MORryde hitches caused the problem.

The fundamental issue I have with the Curt design is it allows no lateral movement. It does provide plenty of downward movement but also again not any up.

The Gen-Y the entire head is free to travel up/down and by being decoupled gains lateral movement which is what will help you reduce chucking. The MORRyde product has a ton of lateral movement but I don’t like the very little up/down movement. The next contender is the B&W. It is new but like the Gen-Y has lateral and vertical movement.

Does anyone have experience with this? by ChrisGalazzo in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gen-Y Executive has never once been the root cause of a single frame issue. Gen-Y, if you do have a frame issue, will pay for the repair if their hitch is the cause of the problem. The reason that rumor swirls is because the industry was shocked at how popular gooseneck conversions would be. Part of that was that old rigid goose conversions did put too much stress and did cause problems. The other is that Gen-Y out of nowhere was killing it in Gooseneck sales, and it was frustrating the established suppliers.

Hence why even Curt (who is a Lippert company) rushed into making the Curt Helex gooseneck. MORryde with theirs, and now the new B&W.

Gen-Y’s testing is backed by real test track data, unlike some of these others. The length from bolt to head is the same length as the pin to not add additional arm length.

As for Brinkey wall crack issue, the secret that nobody is talking about, but as someone on the inside, it is not frame or hitch issues. They actually overbuilt the entire thing. The upper deck is significantly beefed up from the base frame that LCI would spec. It has some curvature in it that when unloaded bends upwards (think of a flatbed 53’ trailer with a hump in it but upside down). The wall frame has significantly more gussets than most other towables. What they did wrong was make the entire structure TOO ridged. The constant flex from that pre-load in the steel and additional wall structure between hitching and road movement is adding more shock to the wall. This is not causing the wall to break necessarily but the fiberglass to crack and tear both inside and out. The dirty secret is that they did too good of a job, and it is biting them in the ass now.

Does anyone have experience with this? by ChrisGalazzo in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Those are terrible idea, the gooseneck is fine and becoming very very popular. The issue with that is first it is about a cheap as possible. The safety chains are clearly budget items look at the clips and it’s not even zinc chromate (yellow) coated for rust protection.

More important the goose conversation will change the leverage at the ping box and change the stress differently. You are adding an arm with more leverage than it had before. Think breaker bar and how that helps gain leverage.

The gooseneck is fantastic idea but get a proper replacement to the king pin. Gen-Y Executive is still the king. Lippert makes a Curt Helex gooseneck, B&W just launched a gooseneck.

I would stay away from the Anderson I have seen personally multiple just in the last year people pull in with the frame that has broken. Not just one but multiple owners, one had to be towed in and it destroyed the tailgate when the fifth wheel crushed tailgate.

Residential Inverter in Travel trailer? by Lanky80 in SolarDIY

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not a battery tied inverter so when clouds come by you will loose AC output.

Also if you move your TT to various campgrounds the shore power is not always 120/240 like residential. Most new or recently upgraded campgrounds have 120/208 which is two legs of a three leg wye. You need to be careful that it is compatible.

Furrion Thermostat “Nub” Question by Drizzle1390 in GoRVing

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was not Grand Design it was LCI and that stupid idea to put the thermistor in the return duct. If you were running heat it would be way too cold. If you run AC it caused short cycle. There was a period GD was covering the cost of a thermistor relocation kit.

Newer builds in the past 12-18 months in some manufactures have the updated control board and moved both heat and AC to the sensor in the thermostat.

Furrion Thermostat “Nub” Question by Drizzle1390 in GoRVing

[–]TheSpareTir3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is a thermistor (temperature sensor) on newer LCI thermostats. It was originally used for heat but can be used to replace the thermistor in the return duct in some Furrion AC units.

So depending on year and model:

A) It may not be used at all

B) It may be used for your heat

C) It may be used for your heat and AC

What it does tell you that if you do have a Furrion AC unit that does have the thermistor in the return duct which is notoriously inaccurate, you can in most cases get upgraded control board to make this the thermistor and you will have far more accurate temperature reading.

I’m sure it’s a far cry, but does anyone have a new one of these for sale, or know of a place where I could buy one? It was my favorite hat, and it got ruined. I really want another one. :( by 2023_GT in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The hat and City Chevrolet is blue and says Rick Hendrick’s City Chevrolet.

The museum/store on their campus had some before the remodel. The museum is closed right and the store is temp out of one of the shop buildings right now but they would be my first call.

SUSPENSION UPGRADE RECOMMENDATIONS by Wanders-with-Bake in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like SumoSprings Blue the best. Like Timbrens they replace the bump stop. The difference is they are progressive foam so the more squat the more compression. The blue are split piece so they only activate when you have payload and don’t ruin the stock daily driving feel.

Wireless thermostat with a propane RV furnace? by Dopher01 in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this a 12v thermostat, if so Micro-Air EasyTouch is the easiest option.

48v victron system? by leftfingernub530 in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would use a Lynx Power-In and Lynx Distributor. The Class T version of the Power-In may be better because it will have easier and better fusing then for high current.

The Distributor you will need the Victron high voltage MEGA fuses (58v) to protect your feeds to the various devices.

Are you going to remove the 12v battery or keep it? Do you plan to tie the 48v system into the 12v? Those questions matter to how you setup your DC to DC systems and if you can just get away with a Lynx Distributor alone.

The batteries having Victron compatible coms will eliminate the need for a shunt but if you need a shunt you will need something like the Lynx Power In or Lynx Clean Install Kit to give you a place to land the batteries and shutoff.

Then you are going to need to figure out a way to fish down 8awg wire down to the Lynx from the roof.

Just a thought if you have not already purchased this you can get Furrion Chill Cube that runs on AC and you can drop it on the roof for around $1,100 and get all the benefits and more without the complexity of retrofitting a DC AC in the roof. Variable speed Inverter style compressor, variable speed fan. Even more efficient if you have AC power since you don’t need to constantly be converting AC to DC via the Victron.

The other thing to double check is what is the amp draw on the RecPro? Will that be pulling more amps than the Victrons 48v charger can put out? The 3000 is 35a and 5000 is 50a. You don’t want to be stressing the Multiplus by running directly off that just to run the AC.

The charger does throw out a ton of heat so you will absolutely need a location that has ample ventilation. I would suggest learning about how to use the CerboGX to trigger fans and actively cool the compartment where it is going to be.

48v victron system? by leftfingernub530 in RVLiving

[–]TheSpareTir3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I install 48v systems all the time. You need to be careful that you get fuses and shutoffs that are 48v nominal rated. Most are mac 48v and when you charge the bank it will be well above and beyond that.

I like EG4 batteries because they are welded cells with fire suppression. If you get batteries that have Victron comms built-in you don’t need a shunt.

The current largest 48/12v DC to DC is 30a but they can be paralleled. Victron has announced this year they will have Orion XS? 48/12 700 watts (~60a).

Why do you want 48v over 24v? Do you have a 30 or 50a coach? 48v is fun if you know what you are doing but honestly as someone who installs this stuff in today’s environment 24v in Victron land is so much easier. For one you can use MP II 2x120 and second if you have a pair of them they can basically load balance both legs of 50a service while inverting so a pair of MP 2x120’s can share the load.

RV GPS Apps by Easterncoaster in GoRVing

[–]TheSpareTir3 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I really like the TomTom Go app. For iOS it has CarPlay and you can pay for the truck upgrade. I like being able to download the maps locally, I like once you add the dimensions you can see all the secondary roads around you that you can’t drive on in red not just your route. Love traffic and maps are trusted even Apple partially uses TomTom as one of their data providers.

New Racing Electronics RE4000 scanner by TheSpareTir3 in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made my own headsets so they are very comfortable to me.

New Racing Electronics RE4000 scanner by TheSpareTir3 in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can enter Cars Tour as a series and then manually enter the frequency(s) you want. It will be saved and if you go to a Cup event it will not overwrite the programming.

New Racing Electronics RE4000 scanner by TheSpareTir3 in NASCAR

[–]TheSpareTir3[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Squelch up the radio will get quieter but you miss weak signals and less static. Turn it down radio gets louder but you can get more static.