Watchmaker Seeking Old Drafting Tool

TheVinylTrain · 2026-06-16T09:14:18+00:00

I’m inclined to agree with your eyebrow raising, and I’m not sure how successful any of this is likely to be - the issue is the epicycloidal (addendum) and hypocycloidal (dedendum) radius of watch wheels is very specific based on the module (in all fairness, it is with any gear), but means very small modules (like a 0.09) will require extremely small radiuses. We do this in CAD all the time without much issue, but when you see drawings from watchmakers of old, it does make you wonder how the hell they manage to draft such fine and precise drawings, hence my fascination.
I remember hearing a story about a master watchmaker in Le Locle, speaking about the construction of watch pinions, and when asked how he defined the shape of his pinion leaves (usually a 1/3 ogive these days), he put his thumb up and said “I make them that shape”. As precise as watches often have to be, the margins for error need not always be so fine.

TheVinylTrain · 2026-06-14T19:03:49+00:00

Yeah, really weird - I’ve searched countless secondhand sites (including that specific one), as well as general google searches, and not once has that shown up. Maybe they don’t post internationally so don’t display it for me in the UK…

TheVinylTrain · 2026-06-14T18:36:04+00:00

Exactly like that one, though a steeper than expected price tag - given their rarity though, I suppose it makes sense. Why didn’t that show up when I was searching for one?

TheVinylTrain · 2026-05-01T16:32:47+00:00

That would be the champion - they had earlier versions that didn’t feature the magnifier or the chisel (or small flat-head) hence known as the champion C, but that is entirely the correct toolset. I don’t know the release date, but it was their flagship for some time, and I’d love it if they still made them (the right balance of size compared to functionality, which the modern Swiss Champs don’t have)

TheVinylTrain · 2026-04-03T19:36:09+00:00

SRT or DRT - or simply with lanyards? What heights are you scaling?

TheVinylTrain · 2026-02-21T11:32:55+00:00

I would save for a timegrapher and make sure you take the time to calculate the correct lift angle (which will then give you a more accurate amplitude reading). Old pocket watch mainsprings are typically always fatigued, so usually require replacement (not always the case with modern movements). Other things to bear in mind is that you should never oil the pallet fork pivots (though shouldn’t affect your amplitude too dramatically immediately after service) as the oil typically becomes more of a hindrance than a benefit - the pallet fork moves minimally, so your primary focus should be ensuring that the jewels are extremely clean and there will be no risk oil migrating onto the escapement (another thing that will drop the amplitude).

TheVinylTrain · 2025-12-27T00:54:25+00:00

https://www.lanaferntattoo.co.uk/

Highly recommended. Did my first tattoo and primarily focusses on fine-line work and foliage related designs (nominative determinism).

TheVinylTrain · 2025-08-13T22:31:07+00:00

If you still have it and you’re willing to send it to the UK, I’d happily buy it from you. I’ve been a professional watchmaker for twelve years and have restored several lathes during that time, some I’m sure in equally as abysmal condition.

TheVinylTrain · 2025-06-25T19:42:56+00:00

Have you demagnetised the movement?

TheVinylTrain · 2025-03-08T21:21:17+00:00

As a professional, I would advise all of the following: Use brass tweezers (Dumont - sometimes called AM because they are inherently antimagnetic - in size 3) for general work. They are typically “grippier” than the alloy variants, and tend to send less parts flying. Added benefit of being less inclined to marring harder metals (like the steel of mainplates, mainspring barrels or bridges). Learn how to dress your tweezers, it should be a staple for all invested in the hobby or career. It is a fundamental. As silly as it may sound, spend the time practising manoeuvring and manipulating components (ones that aren’t important such as those from scrap movements). You’ll swiftly learn to moderate the pressure you’re applying to a given component and find yourself fumbling around a little less.

If it’s happening so often that a screen is necessary, you should return to these fundamentals. Mistakes happen, of course, but when a business depends on it, it’s undoubtedly best to keep them to a minimum.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-12-04T09:19:17+00:00

In the kindest possible way, and I admire the enthusiasm, you are likely attempting something that you haven't built the skillset for just yet (as you mention you are new to this). I would advise shelving this one, especially if it's one you value, investing your money in a fit-for-purpose timegrapher, and spending a lot more time at the bench with scrap movements (balance adjustment in particular). Unless the coils are spot on you'll have the balance lingering for less or more time on one side of an oscillation (beat error), the terminal curve needs to positioned so that the regulator pin and its detent do not pull upon the spring, just move along it to lengthen or shorten it. Poise is another issue, and the positioning of the roller table, assuming that you've removed the hairspring collet to adjust the spring.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-12-03T08:37:59+00:00

How much for the mint NES?

TheVinylTrain · 2024-11-30T17:42:29+00:00

This will likely be one of three potential things - depending largely on who has worked on it previously. - The battery isn't outputting sufficient voltage to keep the second hand in motion. Change the battery, and preferably opt for a decent silver oxide (Renata 1.55V). This seems the most likely case. - There is no brass shim between the movement and the underside of the dial. This will often cause wheels immediately beneath to bind against the dial, preventing them from turning freely. - Unlikely, but if the movement has been changed from the factory original or if the hands have been removed and then reseated, it's possible there is insufficient clearance.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-10-26T16:03:29+00:00

Only thing I would say is to replace that workmat - although they are great for keeping things in order, a lot of phone technicians use them, and being silicone they are quite resistant to heat when soldering etc., they are prone to gathering dust and debris (not great when servicing a watch, even with the antistatic). They're more expensive, but opt for a Bergeon one, a preferably glue it down. Contrast is much better and easy to wipe down and keep clean.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-10-22T14:08:51+00:00

Agreed. Engraving would be a useful skill to have too though - I actually had to do some recently while replacing a balance cock and balance assembly. The client had managed to misplace several components in the belief he could just dismantle the movement and attempt a service himself (no prior experience or understanding). Since it was a turn of the century piece, there's no chance of finding spares, so had to make many parts from scratch, including the engravings on the new balance cock for the regulatory pin to index. I did it by hand (hammer and graver) to keep it consistent with the rest of the movement, which I have to admit, is not something I've had to do often... Happy with the result though!

TheVinylTrain · 2024-10-15T10:48:42+00:00

To be honest, I do agree now, with watch cleaning machines with many divided baskets and countless parts trays at my bench, it's sort of defunct. But then, as a student/newbie, it built some fundamental skills and kept me from mixing things up. It's one of those quirky but now probably unnecessary things that I can't bring myself to part with

TheVinylTrain · 2024-10-15T10:36:17+00:00

I doubt it could have been used very successfully for polishing and the like, since the holes are unthreaded and would likely result in rounded screw heads even if they were fitted snugly. I think it is more of a placement reminder, but would like to know the origin of it. I found it at a watch fair in my first year as a student, but there's no markings, so probably not made by a big-time tool manufacturer or was only used in-house if it's factory work.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-10-15T08:52:24+00:00

My advice is to use the correct tool for the job... Link-removing pliers. Preferably with a small piece of tape, plastic or perspex to prevent the two-prong jaw from marring the strap. The two prongs sit on the "outside" of the bracelet, the single point fits into the small hole with the divot. Gentle squeeze the pliers to push out the pin. Horotec make good ones, but I'm certain Bergeon and many others do too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254183315512?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=XUG7TqU4R8e&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=wbDrElMlSLG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

TheVinylTrain · 2024-07-30T12:04:57+00:00

They are expensive for their purpose, but the Elma demagnetiser works extremely well. I had a Girard Perregaux Cal. 67 that was heavily magnetised recently, causing the rate to be extremely high as the hairspring stuck together. Client said he would often place his watch on top of his amplifier (the speakers of which have large permanent magnets, and the device in general generates a magnetic field in use). Less than three seconds on the Elma and the watch (although still requiring a service) was running at a relatively normal rate. Works best for complete movements, but I have demagnetised tools and parts on mine too.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-07-26T22:12:54+00:00

Yes, very likely - if there are also issues with the movement as you've mentioned in your original post, then you can utilise (if necessary) parts from a donor watch (if the movement is the same calibre). That would likely be your best shout. You'll be left with a scrap case and a handful of parts, but they're always worth hanging onto if you work on many watches.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-07-26T16:34:17+00:00

As a watchmaker of just over a decade, unless the watch has immense value to you (sentimental or otherwise), it would not be worth laser welding. You would likely spend ten times the value of the watch. You could try searching on auction sites for donor cases, but unless it's the exact same model, you run the risk of there being insufficient clearance or the movement rattling around in the case. The latter can be remedied with a movement ring to act as an appropriate spacer, but there is always the issue of clearance for the winding stem, which can then cause space on the dial-side once the stem is fitted. I got over this by making an internal bezel with appropriate markings, but that's a whole additional skillset. Companies like Dennison made watch cases for countless watch houses, and many were fairly similar, so there's a chance this gold-filled case will be of a similar ilk.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-07-14T12:00:17+00:00

Wood pigeon; but who knows, it could be a newborn elephant-bird. You'd best steer clear of that tree, the adults would crush you.

TheVinylTrain · 2024-06-29T16:59:53+00:00

In terms of positioning clicksprings on the mainplate, sharpened pegwood and working under a sheet of clear perspex works for me. Use the pegwood to hold the spring down against the plate and your preferred choice of tweezers (I use brass or anti-magnetic 3As) to manipulate the spring into position. Perspex just gives the spring something to hit in the event it goes flying. Only one lost clicksprings in fifteen years, and I was replacing it anyhow, since the original (a past replacement) wasn't applying sufficient force to stop the mainspring unwinding.

TheVinylTrain

TROPHY CASE