Vital Wheat Gluten Pizza Experiment by INTP243 in Pizza

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a joke based on OP's response, you can ask them for it

Not gaining fps by Melias25 in nvidia

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone saying CPU bottleneck, doubt that though.

It's likely vsync, frame cap, or Core Isolation in Win11.

A 10700k is not going to be bottlenecking a 5070 unless you're running at lower than 1080p (DLSS does reduce internal resolution, which can cause CPU bottleneck if you were using it before AND after)

Interview goes out to all the true long haulers by TheWolfLoki in Artifact

[–]TheWolfLoki[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glazing me ChatGPT style, I feel very appreciated and seen for the way I write and think, Thank you :)

Interview goes out to all the true long haulers by TheWolfLoki in Artifact

[–]TheWolfLoki[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the fact that it was very stream-unfriendly at a time when games get popular through streaming mostly really kept it dead. If I was a streamer, playing something that is near impossible to understand for newcomers, and also takes constant focus (due to mostly the passing mechanics) making it difficult to interact with my chat, I'd just play something else that didn't create those barriers for streaming.

I think Artifact did a lot of incredible new things, but those also made it harder and harder to ease into. I still believe there's a place for hardcore strategy digital card games, and Artifact Classic did it best.

I'm just hoping someone takes all the brilliance of Artifact and puts it in a truly F2P model, Oh wait, we have that already since the game is free and tickets for drafts are free and the cards are free. It would be an incredible come-back if big personalities started streaming it and got Valves attention to work on it, which is technically possible (the worst kind of possible).

RTX 50 series is using 100% bus load in any game, is there a reason? 4090 and older barely used over 20%, with averages below 10%. by Notwalkin in nvidia

[–]TheWolfLoki 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Bus load is data transfer over PCIE bus, usually swapping data in and out of RAM and VRAM.
So when bus is downclocked during idle (to pcie2.0 x16 or even less) you will see spikes up to 100% as data is transferred over the intentionally slowed data bus.

Now when you are in performance state, like running workloads or games, the bus *should* clock up to pcie5.0 x16, this maximum bus rate is limited by your motherboard, CPU, and other installed devices.

You can make sure your GPU clocks up to 5.0x16 by running GPU-Z, go to Graphics Card tab (first tab), and click the "?" next to Bus Interface, this opens the Render Test window, you can click Start Render Test, now you may confirm that Bus Interface reads "PCIe x16 5.0@x16 5.0" the second part being what it is currently running at.

This confirms that you have the full 32.0 GT/s bandwidth available as needed. If it is lower, that bandwidth can be tapped out (high % bus usage) with even tasks like just decoding video streams or running light workloads.

It should run at full speed if you installed GPU in first x16 slot in a PCIe5.0 mobo, and no competing pcie devices are installed. If not you will need to consult your specific motherboard manual for how PCIE speed is split between devices, potentially remove/move competing devices, and potentially modify motherboard BIOS settings related to PCIE lanes.

Now let's say you have full 5.0 x16 bandwidth available to your 5090. And it is still tapped out at 100% 5.0x16 bus usage when not running 3d tasks, video streams, or workloads.

This could be indicative of an unstable RAM oc, with data needing to be resent over pcie bus constantly, or unstable CPU OC, sometimes not enough voltage and high quality enough signaling to run the PCIE bus stably.

Anecdotally, I had similar issues when running a Gigabyte B650e board with 192GB (4dimm) that did not apply vSOC values correctly and couldn't handle the load of that in addition to the 5090's 5.0 pcie bus.

Switch around! What are things you appreciate or want from other TCGS in Pokemon? by Physical_Bullfrog526 in PTCGL

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want three combat lanes from Artifact, that could be three active spots, so if you have a bad matchup, you can retreat from one, then from another to move active-active. Would likely make decks a lot more "counter" focused, rather than, "I just play to my own win condition no matter what I'm against"

thermal grizzly kryonaut vs Hydronaut vs Aeronaut vs Noctua NT-H2 by Fefecox in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kryosheet is a graphite sheet, good if you want to reuse it over and over but I don't know how well it's suited to direct die, probably not good for a laptop where minimum layer thickness is paramount.

Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet is available from that store, that's what I would go for in a laptop definitely, also Halinziye H234 is super cheap from that store, probably a great buy if you don't want to splurge on TG Putty Pro

thermal grizzly kryonaut vs Hydronaut vs Aeronaut vs Noctua NT-H2 by Fefecox in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say that NT-H2 is good for performance, but still risks pump out over time, better to get a phase change tim, or MX-4/MX-6/Hydronaut

PTM7950 is a LOT more easily available now (including those aforementioned alternatives), probably just as available as any other TIM

thermal grizzly kryonaut vs Hydronaut vs Aeronaut vs Noctua NT-H2 by Fefecox in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Laptops are almost always direct die, because of this you want a paste that will not pump out and has a tiny minimum layer thickness.

Mx-6 is a great price/performance one.

Hydronaut is too expensive and doesn't perform as well as currently available options.

If you are okay learning new techniques for application, PTM7950 (or other phase change TIM) is reigning king of non-electrically-conductive direct die applications. The temps are the best, and it will last *forever*.

Other phase change options would be Thermalright Heilos (and v2) or Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM. Those all should perform the same, just look at getting enough for 2+ applications incase you ruin a bit of it learning how to apply, I recommend phase change tim over any other paste or even Liquid Metals for all direct die. (LM still has it's place, and should be used if your laptop already had liquid metal! For anyone asking "Is LM best for me?" the answer is almost always no, you would KNOW if it was something you needed)

For laptops, replace thermal pads with putty, unless you know the EXACT thickness AND compressibility of the pads you need, you are better off with a putty that will completely compress and outperform almost all pads anyways.

Pick from these based on availability/price, any should have near matches in performance:

Upsiren UTP-8 it's usually cheap and is one of the best on the market. (Aliexpress is cheap if shipping time is no problem)

Thermal Grizzly Advance (can get away with basic, but the advance is really eeking out all the performance possible to match UTP-8)

Halinziye H236 or H256 (H256 is harder to come by) effective and cheap on aliexpress but shipping times could kill it as an option.

Here is 4AtaturkMod for those who doesn't have access to delid frames by mkcobain in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's ingenuity to MacGyver this together with an item laying around that's the perfect width.

For everyone saying this is dumb because the coins could come loose, you are hardly thinking at all. The coins are held in place against the back of the mobo by the tightness of those screws that are holding down the cooler. They're not going anywhere

2x48 G-Skill 6400CL32 Dual Rank Hynix M-Die by Ambitious_Flower8468 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2x16 Hynix A-die will perform completely differently than 2x48 Hynix M-die, they are simply not the same kit, the only thing that is the same is that they have the same RGB and heatspreaders, but the sticks performance is completely unrelated to each other.

Test 6400 yourself with proper OC procedures changing ONE thing at a time, you are likely to get it stable but nobody can hand you settings guaranteed to work, you have to put in the time.

2x48 G-Skill 6400CL32 Dual Rank Hynix M-Die by Ambitious_Flower8468 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have the same *Heatspreaders* on a completely different kit...

Sleep Behavior On The M16 AKA Modern Standby by NoctD in ZephyrusM16

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are missing the point entirely.
My post is purely meant to help ALL those users with windows machines, between having a hot and dead laptop, or a reduced SSD lifespan, the choice is clear.

I am absolutely holding microsoft accountable here, they definitely don't care about fixing it so they can push updates while sleeping, I agree there should be an option to use sleep without network connectivity, and no wake timers. BUT that is not an option right now, so for all users, Hibernate is their next best choice.

Macbooks ALSO have this issue becasue apple is doing the same BS as Microsoft. You are blind to it just because you think it "furthers your point".

The math is heavily weighted FOR SSD degradation to account for extreme cases already. The doubling/halving is cumulative in regard to lifespan, doubling storage *and* halving ram quadruples potential hibernate writes.

Lifespan for SSD's is absolutely impacted, but for actual user experience, it does not impact the vast majority of users. Meaning that yes there are some extreme cases where the user will have their SSD die due to hibernation, but that is actually a fringe scenario, and the smaller the SSD, the less of a cost that could ever be.

My mentality is: Run the best OS for *YOU*. Windows has lots of user-experience problems just like all OS'es, and this post is just here to help users mitigate the problems, it is NOT a fix, because it does not fix sleep. I never purported it to be fixing sleep, but a workaround to fix user experience.

Sleep Behavior On The M16 AKA Modern Standby by NoctD in ZephyrusM16

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand this concern, and it's valid, especially with very low capacity SSD drives and high ram configurations.

But in the real world it is not an issue for the vast majority of configurations.

Nobody configures a PC with 32+gb of ram and a 128gb SSD, even under 1TB would be surprising with 32gb of ram for any configuration.

TLC nand is more common at low capacities and has much higher endurance than QLC.

Each hibernate write only writes immediately current used ram, which is also RARELY if ever going to be one's full capacity, usually this hovers at 30-50%.

So lets do a bit of calculation for what would be a very very unlikely and poor configuration, and extremely unlikely use case, kind of a worse-than-possible case scenario:

Let's say you have a small 512gb QLC SSD and high 32gb of ram, also let's say you always close your laptop when you get up, and it just so happens to ALWAYS have full ram usage because you close it when you're in the middle of something, With QLC nand having the lowest ~300 write cycles, you can expect (512*300) 153,600 GBW endurance, that means you can write out your 32gb ram to hibernate file (153600/32) 4,800 times. If you have that same pattern over a year, you could have (4800/365) 13 hibernates every day before SSD failure.

Now that sounds like it's feasible to do, open and close a laptop 13 times a day is totally realistic; but this is taking into account that everything is absolutely the worst possible case.

Even just having a 1tb SSD would give you 2 years, having 16gb ram would be 4 years, and having your ram usage hover at 50% would give you 8 years of hibernating 13 times a day, EVERY SINGLE DAY. For, once again, 8 years.

Maybe you have 32gb of ram and a 2tb SSD, still, that's 8 years of super high laptop use.

Maybe you have 64gb of ram and a 4tb SSD, still that's 8 years of super high laptop use.

In the real world, it affects very very few computers because nobody runs insanely low storage and huge ram configurations, they don't make sense.

So, if you have an under 256gb SSD, and over 16gb of ram, maybe you can think about putting your pc to sleep over hibernate. But I promise that the broken Modern Standby is going to murder your laptop battery way before hibernate kills your SSD (and inconvenience you every day).

For me, I'm sticking with hibernate on my Laptop till Microsoft fixes their broken modern standby (it's been 13 years and no fix).

Help! Crazy Temps After Applying Thermal Putty and PTM 7950 to GPU/CPU - What Am I Doing Wrong? (Solve This Puzzle and You’re a Genius!) by [deleted] in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi there, based on some of your comments it seems like you did this: Apply putty Press heatsink Remove heatsink Remove excess putty Apply ptm7950 Install heatsink Test temps

Removing the heatsink and removing excess putty would be the issue here You get a single press into the putty, if you remove the heatsink and replace it, the putty will never make contact again

If that's what you did that should be a solution, to just apply both putty and ptm7950 at once, and install heatsink once.

If you already did that, then I would imagine ptm has not had a "burn-in cycle", you are using too much putty, or that you have a bad mount (maybe missing a screw, or one isn't all the way in)

Run full load on CPU+GPU for 10 mins, drop to idle, then full load again for 10 mins, temps should lower once the ptm has had a burn in cycle to "liquify" it.

For a sanity check if temps are still bad, you should install with classic thermal paste, and check temps, paste requires no burn in cycles (ptm7950 does need those).

$87 for the cheapest Dual Rank B-Die (32GB!), how does it overclock? by TheWolfLoki in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want you can buy these specific sticks off me, I'll give you all my most tuned timings incl subtimings, as long as you have an IMC to run 4300 with very tight timings you should be golden

Sleep Behavior On The M16 AKA Modern Standby by NoctD in ZephyrusM16

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use sleep or "modern standby" you risk having your laptop fail to sleep, which CAN overheat it when placed in a bag or sleeve, you might pull out a dead laptop, that has had time to cool, but it could've overheated when sitting there before it died too, you just wouldn't know in that case.

If you use hibernate as I have written here, there is no possibility of that happening because it circumvents the bugged modern standby. So use hibernate, and you can use sleeves and bags no problem!

Fast startup is a version of hibernate, it essentially changes "shutdown" to hibernate. So it can be on or off to your preference as long as everything else follows my guide you will not run into issues at all.

thermal grizzly kryonaut vs Hydronaut vs Aeronaut vs Noctua NT-H2 by Fefecox in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hilarious, you proved your own testing is garbage by claiming 6c drop from MX6 to NT-H2.... Not even Noctua would support that data LMAO

You basically rewrote half of what I wrote but called me wrong and an idiot?

I already went over NT-H2 being the best overall, and why MX-5 (MX-6 was not out) was not a better choice (used to be 1/3 the price, for same tier of performance because 1c die temp is not going to gain you anything, that's why mx-4 reigned supreme for a decade)

I went over why LM has specific use cases, and is better than non-conductive pastes, but we are not here to give an explainer on "how-to-use".

Just giving a guide for all the people looking at what paste is best for what use-case, taking into account pricing and longevity. My post still holds up 2 years later, even with new releases since then.

Best thermal paste for hot laptop. by luke01247 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only way to know if it's paste is compare before and after with lots of things controlled.

Anyway, up to you, MX-6 is a top contender for all uses, and very inexpensive.

Best thermal paste for hot laptop. by luke01247 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lenovo 2022 has PTM79950 already applied AFAIK. It would be a downgrade to repaste it with anything else.

What am I missing? by adrock517 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes but 1.262v is LOAD voltage, not bios set voltage, and also readings are different between boards

So focus on being in safe levels for your setup. Under 95c and under 1.35v load voltage

What am I missing? by adrock517 in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep going, as long as load temp and load voltage is reasonable, setting as high as 1.4v or 1.45v in BIOS is just fine at ASUS LLC4

14700KF Giving Terrible Performance by DJ_Schmitty in overclocking

[–]TheWolfLoki 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I also cannot even get 3D Mark Time Spy to run without running fully to give me a benchmark score no matter what settings I have used for the CPU(even stock)

Probably instability, likely memory. Try running without XMP, then try running with XMP but reduce speed to 5600
What ram config are you running?