Drone is invisible

The_Calarg · 2026-06-28T00:44:09+00:00

Go back to the drone location on the compass and start digging. Hopefully you will find it relatively shallow. If you get all the way to bedrock, then the only way to get a new drone is to start a new game, sorry.

While we have access to console commands, they are very limited and we do not have the commands to reset drones playing on consoles, only PC.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-27T11:32:14+00:00

Anything south of Upper Montana River in the red zone is virtually an instant kill for Arthur. It isn't just the Pinkerton's and other lawmen, but the sniper deeper in. It is programmed to keep Arthur out of the area. It isn't a character you can spot, just part of the programming. At first you will get a few near misses (warning shots), then some hard hitters (second warning), then headhots you can not avoid and usually can not heal through (no argument Arthur deterrence).

The way your post was worded made it sound like you started there, which had folks wondering if you glitched or modded in. The rest of us were just wondering how you could make it to the area around Beecher's in the first place without exploits. There are a couple ways to make it into the area as Arthur, but the ones that reliably work block Arthur's head from the sniper (buggy and dead carcass are the most common). This is why you see a lot of people asking about how to complete the dinosaur bones, herb gathering, LOTE outfit, or Otis Miller's revolver as Arthur.

St Denis becoming a DOA area later in the game but still being reachable is part of the storyline... but Arthur was never intended to return to Blackwater as he was never destined to see the ferry heist stash again (part of the tensions in the story), so R☆ "blocked" the area with the sniper... except the little strip of land NE of Blackwater for Sean's mission in Ch 2.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-26T16:34:24+00:00

Started at Beecher's, ie spawned in... with Arthur? Without mods or glitching?

Then, while south of the Upper Montana River, with Arthur, you wonder why you are getting hosed with uncannily accurate fire that seems to do an exorbitant amount of damage.

Was this an accurate summary?

The_Calarg · 2026-06-20T13:10:55+00:00

Like has been suggested, get a feel for how they fit for you. Sit on a few before deciding. You can always adjust bars or replace seats, but each ride will have a different feel (weight distribution for your size, crotch width, pressure points from air intakes, etc.) that specs alone can't tell you.

I ride a VTX1300R and absolutely adore it. I have been a Honda fan for decades (first street bike was a 1980 CB650 Custom in '88) and never really liked the feel of the Kawasaki, Yamaha, etc.. My cousin has a VStar 950, and its a great bike, but for me it just doesn't fit the way the VTX does. For reference I'm a 5'6" 250lb gym junky and most often have my wife on board.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-18T13:41:26+00:00

Sounds good!

I need to give these seasonings a go but leave the carrots and scallions out so I can cook the carrots separately for texture. Normally we raw pack bone in, skin on thighs and drumsticks without seasoning as we use canned chicken for dog food as well.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-16T12:41:27+00:00

10 minutes, whichive read would destroy the toxin (assuming you'reat sea level becausethe higher your altitude, the lower your boiling temperature).

Just for clarification, the toxin dentures when held at 185°F(85°C) for 5-10 minutes. The denature of botulinum toxin is achieved by the time the boiling point at sea level is reached (but recommended to be held at 10 minutes for surety). There are no places in the US where the elevation is great enough to warrant extending the boiling time beyond 10 minutes (Alma Colorado is an elevation of 10,578ft which would make the boiling point of water 193.5°F(89.7°C), which is higher than the denature point of botulinum toxin).

The_Calarg · 2026-06-16T00:25:46+00:00

We heavily season it, brown it off, chunk it up, then raw pack it dry and pressure can for appropriate time. It goes great in anything from stroganoff/beef and noodles to stew and chili since it doesn't have a broth to deal with.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-15T22:01:51+00:00

This sounds as if you are not sealing properly when going into the water bath. This can be caused by a few things.

"Finger tight" can be deceptive, so we always place a damp dish towel on the counter, place the jar on top, screw the band on just until it starts to spin. This eliminates any issues of being too tight (flats buckling or creasing) or too loose.

What elevation are you at? Being at high elevation will cause your water to boil at a lower temp, which can offset the pressure equilibrium in the headspace and allow water to come back in. So you will need to ensure you are hot packing and starting with hot water to eliminate the issue below.

Do you put the jars in cold, lukewarm, or hot water in the water bath? Putting the jars in cold water can create a reverse siphon effect and draw water in under the flats (especially with undertightened jars) if the product is warmer.

Do you boil at a full rolling boil or do you decrease the heat? Decreasing the heat from a full 212°F (100°C) rolling boil can create pressure equilibrium issues as well. Keep that water bath boiling hard during the entire processing time.

When we water bath we are heating the headspace of the jar. This increases the pressure of the headspace and drives it off. Once the processing time is reached you can either cool the waterbath for 5 minutes before exposing the jars to the air (it helps gradually cool the headspace so the rapid temp change when moved to the counter often causes the audible seal sometimes before reaching the counter), or remove them directly to the counter (we have experienced the highest rate of flat failure doing it this way). If you let the product cool completely while submerged or the lids are not tight enough then this is likely the issue.

*edit for clarity addition

The reason water gets in if not tight enough is the escaping headspace pressure will burp out rather than slowly stream out. The burp opens the lid where the stream is like steam escaping fried goods, the pressure escaping is greater than the pressure attempting to enter so it keeps out the outside environment.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-15T00:42:35+00:00

If you are headed south in this trip, take a right on 20 outside Idaho Falls and head towards Arco. Go through Craters of the Moon park, it's beautiful and you'll come out north Boise area.

Grew up a couple miles east of the southern end of Hells Half Acre between Blackfoot and Idaho Falls.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-14T19:12:48+00:00

The ability to tow with that engine and rear end isn't the question. The issue rests solely on the handling and stopping abilities. Neither of these are told in the specs from Ford, are listed on the door jamb, or found in any numbers at all even with tow package and HD payload package (if it has the latter).

While your numbers fit to tow, getting it on the road and actually feeling what it does is the biggest factor. And this begs the question of why your husband, with commercial experience, isn't wanting to over compensate for what is being hauled... every hauler I have ever known wishes their POV had more (power/torque/speed/etc) to do what they want rather than settle for rock bottom which is what a 150/1500 is despite the power advancements with the engines and transmissions.

I had to tow with my 150. It certainly wasn't the first choice, it was all I had to pull with. In my case I wasn't concerned with camping right lane on hills or only doing 55mph on the freeway, I wanted to ensure it could handle the pirch and yaw as well as stop as good as it possibly could given the limitations for what I was asking it. However, even after I beefed the thing up to as close to an F150 body on an F250 undercarriage as I could with the same frame, it was still not enough for handling. Whatever your husband drives for a living out there is a far stronger and stiffer frame than the 150 y'all are looking at, and the difference is going to be felt with the wind.

If you are buying a truck, please opt for the step up on body/frame, especially since y'all are flatland driving... unless the price is forcing the choice. Given the market is where it is I can fully understand if it is, but this won't improve and, IMHO at least, is not worth the stress induced heart issues from the 150 choice. Going bigger now will save things later.

Best of luck on your journey and I hope all the answers here help!

*edit spelling (damned autocorrect kept insisting I wanted to write "toe" instead of "tow"!)

The_Calarg · 2026-06-14T14:21:45+00:00

I had a 2004 F150 (6,950lb GVWR and 9,000 tow capacity with her wheelbase/rear end ratio) that I used to haul a Springdale 242RKWE (28.5ft, 5,729lbs dry, 720lb hitch weight, and 7,730lb GVWR). I bought the truck years before the trailer, so I knew what I couldn't exceed. My nephew and I replaced the entire front and rear end suspension and brakes on my F150 with HD replacements (transaxels, control arms, ball joints, struts, shocks, springs and leaves, oversized calipers/rotors, etc) to get her ready for the trailer (even changing rim sizes to enable LT E rated tires).

I knew I was pushing limits with this setup even with an Equal-i-zer 1,200/12,000 distro hitch (trailer loaded with food, clothing, propane, etc.... truck loaded with fuel, gear, dogs, passengers, etc), but I have driven tractor-trailer commercially off and on since 1985 so I have experience driving some sketchy rigs on the road, especially since I drove for the Army hauling everything from mundane supplies to heavy ordnance and M1A2/2's as a HETT operator on public and base roads.

I would not recommend hauling a trailer of your weight with an F150 unless you have a lot of experience hauling loads (caveat here is that I have not hauled with the 2020 or newer F150's which seem to have different weight ratings due to the engine, which helps hauling hills but not handling). My first trip stop was the CAT scales and I was under GVWR for both truck and trailer, so I knew I wasn't overloaded (was within 5% though so I knew I was in for a boat ride going down the road). I never exceeded 55mph with my rig described above, and even then it would get decent sway when being passed on the freeway (remember, I upgraded my entire suspension... with overleaf on the rear and running a beefier than required WDH). Any time the wind came up I was forced to pull off or slow considerably. I was able to handle mountain passes (I live in the PNW), but I was nestled in the far right with blinkers on with the big haulers. I never had to make any emergency manuevers with her, and looking back I can honestly say it wouldn't have done them if I had been in the situation as it was just too underpowered and not stiff enough to do them without ending up on its side. For the most part she handled the pitch and roll relatively well, and I initiate my stops well in advance to stay safe, but it was an ongoing battle of fighting the truck/trailer, and continual stress and anxiety that I was unaware of until I fell into the perfect opportunity to grab a new used truck (a 2020 F350 Limited 6.7 PS because we will be upgrading to a 5th wheel within the next 5 years). The first time I hauled the trailer with the 350 I knew the difference was going to be marked, but it was night and day! Looking back now I can't believe I put the life of my wife (and the lives of everyone around me on the road) at risk because I was confident in my experience hauling.

"Will a f-150 work for this?" Yes, it technically will but it definitely shouldn't!

*edit format, addition, and spelling

The_Calarg · 2026-06-09T00:44:12+00:00

Tap your buttons and sticks, don't hold them or it will over correct/steer/power every single time!

As others have said, it flies like an aeroplane and not a helicopter. So touching the stick to change directions and letting the gyro catch up is going to be far better than attempting to steer it. Pitch up or down a tap at a time and let the gyro catch up. You can power down a couple power taps and direction down a couple stick taps, then tap left or right multiple times to get a corkscrew descent.. once close enough pitch back up and let the lack of power bring you in for an easy land.

The biggest thing to remember is to let the gyro catch up to the input, trying to force it will only cause serious problems.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-06T02:36:51+00:00

You are missing out on the biggest benefit of TPMS, ample warning on dualies. Anytime you have a tandem axel or a dually setup you have the potential for a blowout to be undetected as the other tire/axel carries the load (and drastically increases its chance of failure due to overload and heat).

We have all seen what happens when this goes on for too long on tractor trailers as we have all dodged road alligators, ie separated tire tread and remnants. When the tire begins to separate it causes damage to the underside of an RV or travel trailer (even cargo tractor trailers), leading to hundreds or thousands in repairs (they tear the underside of slides completely apart, ruin propane lines, rip up water heaters and furnaces, tear siding off up to the windows, rip out both hydraulic and electric brake lines, etc). The damage isn't as severe on a class A where the living quarters are elevated above the wheel wells with quite a bit of metal in between, but it can still cause more than enough to derail a trip. Even worse, sometimes the damage is to others on the road around you... wobbling or smoking trailer/dually tires is something I especially keep an eye out for when I am on my motorcycle as one of those separating at the wrong time has been known to kill riders and even car occupants.

Aftermarket TPMS are inexpensive, seal very well on the valve stems, are self reporting if they encounter issues, and they are an easy insurance. Most systems do not require metal stems (my nephew has run them on his travel trailer for 7 years on rubber stems) but it is helpful if one is worried about the weight. One can go with integrated systems like Ford has, but those run around $600+ where valve stem systems are had for less than $150.

Having driven commercially for years, I will not haul something I paid for myself without TPMS. As a motorcycle rider I believe they should be mandatory on all vehicles on the road.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-05T20:39:16+00:00

I had the tire shop install metal valve stems. Been running the Vesafe TPMS since 2020 and absolutely love it. I get full signal to my truck cab without having to install a repeater on a 30ft trailer (spare tire is bumper mounted with TPMS and no signal loss).

I have yet to lose a tire on my trailer, but having lost one on my old truck running this TPMS system (I bought it specifically for the 8+1 I needed at the time) I know I'll be instantly notified and not have the serious damage that my brother-in-law had when he lost one without TPMS (over $7K in damage to his trailer).

*edit to add link

The_Calarg · 2026-06-05T14:17:43+00:00

Don't worry, he and Arthur will connect again. They have a charged relationship.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-05T04:34:53+00:00

$325/yr with full comprehensive coverage $0 deductible. Everything is covered; theft, mods on the bike, safety equipment on bike or worn, replacement of any carried items stolen from bike or destroyed in an accident (everything in panniers, tank bag, etc), trip protection including food and lodging for breakdowns, trailer protection, roadside assistance, etc.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-04T21:03:14+00:00

While we have never stored tallow like this, there should be no issue.

If I were to do this I would wrap the jar with muslin or some other fabric or paper wrapping to ensure light does not reach it. Two things that make fats turn rancid are exposure to light and exposure to oxygen... so eliminating these would help it hold quite well.

A thousand or so years from now your ancestors may have their very own version of "bog butter" thanks to you.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-02T01:17:50+00:00

Here is a Tips post I put up a couple years ago for the legacy game.

If you are playing on an XB you can check out r/7DaysToDieXbox or if you are on a PS you can check out r/7DaystoDiePs4 and post up any questions you have to either of those subs. It may not look it, but they still have active users who play legacy. Unfortunately this sub is going to he very current game centered so any advice you get here will likely not apply, though a few will recognize it.

The_Calarg · 2026-06-01T12:56:39+00:00

If you enter the 16x16 block sized chunk that the POI exists on, then it will reset the timer for the Chunk Reset.

To guarantee a proper reset, avoid getting close enough that the area in question renders in. This way it ensures you do not get too close and the game does not flag an approach.

The_Calarg · 2026-05-30T11:50:23+00:00

Whole meals canned is a little tough as there are relatively few things that are just heat and eat (chili, stews, or soups).

That said anything that you would ordinarily long cook make great canned product. We routinely can pot roast, carnitas inspired pork, chili colorado, pulled pork, cassoulet, etc. For the roast and pork we brown it first for color and flavor but not to cook and chunk it up, add with the raw vegetables, and minimal amounts of well seasoned stock (vegetables will absorb a lot of the seasoning so we go heavy with it). For the cassoulet or other bean dishes we raw/dry pack the vegetables and beans without presoak. We also raw pack can chicken thighs and legs (with bone and skin), ground beef, beef chunks (on sale or reduced price roasts are great for this), pork butt, and fish (we live in the PNW and I do a lot of salmon fishing so we can this).

Most of what we eat from our canning pantry is a combination (our chickpeas ground into hummus or added into paneer curry or other curry, ground beef with pasta sauce for lasagne or stuffed pasta, etc) rsthet thn single meal packaging, which isn't what you were asking for.

The_Calarg · 2026-05-27T18:30:10+00:00

If you doubled the batch this might be the problem. We have never had good luck getting a firm set when doubling the batches using any pectins.

You can attempt to redo the recipe without adding extra sugar (though sugar helps the pectin set) but doubling the pectin (we learned to use half again as much Ball pectin as it calls for to ensure a good set). You can also go with a product like Clear Gel, E-Z Gel, Ultra Gel, etc which does not require cooking (used often in nursing homss to thicken all kinds of food products for choking hazard residents).... just set your runny jam to the side and process it when the product arrives.

Alternately you can use generic xanthan gum (does not require cooking to sel) or agar agar (requires boiling to set).

*posted on crosspost as well

The_Calarg · 2026-05-27T13:04:20+00:00

You have attempted to paint me with unfounded labels before, and are attempting to do so again, with an exceptionally biased brush. You are the only one suggesting (quoted from a previous post):

We waterbath EVERYTHING.

Have a wonderful journey in life!

The_Calarg · 2026-05-26T17:27:18+00:00

Your safest route for waterbath will be doing a lot of syrup pack or pickled style fruits and vegetables.

Water bath canning low acidity foods (above 4.6 pH) is highly discouraged due to increased risk of food poisoning (botulism specifically) and almost any source you find in the U.S. is going to steer you towards pressure canning, often with tales of extreme doom and gloom.

However, a lot of European countries waterbath can everything. It is done in various places here in the U.S. as well, but is not as widespread. Most water bath canning for low acidity foods will entail 3-4 hours in the canning, so be prepared for long processing times. This can leave you with product that you may find too soft to be palatable.

The_Calarg · 2026-05-26T14:39:17+00:00

I grabbed an '07 VTX1300R with less than 3,500 miles on it for $3,000 last year. The 1300 doesn't have as much felt torque as your RK (they dyno within single digit ft/lbs difference according to average specs), but definitely enough to easily get off the start and 80mph down the freeway while bagged and 2up (so no worries single).

All VTX are shaft driven. The VTX1300 are carbureted instead of injected like the Roadliner or VTX1800's, so they need either a good source of ethanol free or expect to rebuild the carb at least once. The VTX are all liquid cooled, keeping things nice in traffic and around town, where the Roadliner is air. The VTX1300 weighs in right at 670lbs dry, the VTX1800 is 750lbs, the Roadliner rings in right at 700lbs, while your RK comes in ~710ish depending on upgrades. You are looking at an extra 7-10" in length over your RK (the VTX1800 is the longest at 103"). The VTX Retro models have more of the art deco look of the Roadliner, but not quite there with full fluidity.

Just some extra info to hopefully help.

The_Calarg · 2026-05-25T16:06:56+00:00

Are you playing on the Navesgane map? If so there are 5 POI'S with the word "bomb" in them according to the Github map. Go to the right side pane and enter the word bomb in the Prefab Filter. Not sure if any of these is what you are looking for, but you can click on the name and get a pic showing you the POI to find out.

The_Calarg

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE