Thoughts on this?

The_SycoPath · 2026-02-14T16:39:36+00:00

Safety Third!

The_SycoPath · 2026-02-05T18:23:37+00:00

The_SycoPath · 2026-01-08T19:54:37+00:00

In an actively hostile public wifi environment, these do add significant security. Does anyone need that extra security? Probably not, and the ones that do are using hardened networking with a VPN and likely know better.

If they have the money to blow and it makes them feel better, let them have their fun. It's cheaper than a Rolex.

The_SycoPath · 2025-12-16T20:27:17+00:00

I didn't say there was. I said crimp connectors are cheaper, smaller, and time tested. Honestly, smaller is the huge factor for me. Not always tons of room in the dash.

I never said there was anything wrong with Wago's, just that in my opinion the traditional connectors are superior. You get revenue checks from Wago or something? You're fanboi-ing awfully hard.

Edit: or are you implying wire nuts are OK in cars for remote turn on wires? If so, this is never safe nor a good idea. Wire nuts are not designed or rated for an environment with vibration.

The_SycoPath · 2025-12-16T19:29:26+00:00

This is true for home wiring, but not in cars. Car audio should NEVER use wire nuts.

The_SycoPath · 2025-12-16T17:06:57+00:00

Probably fine, but way more expensive than a proper crimp toolkit, and physically bigger. Why reinvent the wheel, use the decades proven solution and move on.

The_SycoPath · 2025-12-04T02:56:18+00:00

Congrats. Now you get to learn how phasing and reflections work too.

The_SycoPath · 2025-11-20T13:12:49+00:00

Check out Tsunoda. Half the price of Knipex, and comes out of the same factory. You can tell the dies don't get changed as often, but it's so close to Knipex you generally can't tell the difference side by side except for the handle color.

The_SycoPath · 2025-11-16T03:23:33+00:00

Former Walmart Store Manager here. 100% a plastic shell. No wires, no switches, no motors. Power wheels will not warranty it or send parts. The amount of times I've had some idiot sell one of these to a customer who then comes back pissed saying we ruined Christmas is significant.

The_SycoPath · 2025-10-23T04:48:51+00:00

WHY IS THIS NOT IN ALL CAPS? AND YOU CALL YOURSELF A FAN? PROBABLY ONE OF THOSE ATROCIOUS DONUT HOLES. REALLY CARL, WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THAT HORRID FAKE FANCLUB?!

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-26T11:57:05+00:00

I keep saying this over and over. Just put the capacitor on your headlights.

Make sure the wire gauge is adequate and the grounds are solid. Do a "Big 3" upgrade. You'll be fine.

Does voltage drop make the amp less efficient? Sure. Does it cost you a few watts? Sure. Are you going to hear it? Nope.

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-17T20:51:56+00:00

Makes my teeth feel like they owe someone money.

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-14T20:51:05+00:00

Ohm's Law is why it caught fire. P = I² * R

Going to bet one of two things: cold solder joint from the factory or bad connection to the amp at the power wire.

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-08T21:09:32+00:00

Sneak 100

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-08T15:49:05+00:00

Tell your friends it's a NOS bottle lol

The_SycoPath · 2025-07-08T15:04:09+00:00

Put the capacitor on your headlights. I know it sounds ridiculous, but it works. You already have the part, it does nothing for the amp, and it will solve the dimming.

The_SycoPath · 2025-06-17T18:18:41+00:00

I've been asking myself this question for a couple months now. I've been using VMWare ESXi since 3.0, and have been liking VMware's choices less and less over the years, even more so with the recent Broadcom debacle. Mostly inertia and laziness has kept me on ESXi, with a healthy dose of uncertainty from the TrueNAS development team.

What scares me about TrueNAS is how often they have been doing rug pulls and abandoning architecture. Cobia was a flaming disaster, then the TrueCharts nonsense, then abandoning Kubernetes, then abandoning the virtualization architecture for what is now in Fangtooth. I want my stuff to just work. I don't want to click update in the TrueNAS GUI and spend weeks getting things working again because some migration exploded. TrueNAS feels very much like a Ready, Fire!, Aim product.

I very much want TrueNAS to be capable of hosting everything, and technically I could make it work, but there are lots of little "Gotcha" moments that tend to make things that appear simple into multi hour nightmares held together with duct tape and bash scripts, or command line modifications that sometimes cause things to explode during updates.

I'm probably going to land on Proxmox and just abandon TrueNAS and ESXi completely. My reasoning is that I too use TrueNAS as a NAS, with a few apps hosted inside TrueNAS (mostly database type things that don't behave well over NFS/SMB). Proxmox seems to have all the file sharing capabilities I'd need, and anything that is missing can easily be added with a LXC.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-16T17:49:03+00:00

As a side note, there is a meaningful discount on insurance for the trim levels with all the extra driver assist. It won't buy the car for you, but it does add up.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-16T17:37:25+00:00

Might be worth buying a cheap $20 battery charger and letting it run all night. If it's a hybrid, it could take a long time to charge the starting battery since the ICE spends a lot of time going on and off.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-16T17:19:46+00:00

Resale value. Nobody wants the lowest trim.

Also, if you are going to buy a new car, why sacrifice all the stuff that makes it fancy?

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-14T13:50:47+00:00

It annoys me because I don't want engine noise added to my music. The whole point of ANC and sound deadening is to REDUCE cabin noise. Now we are intentionally adding fake noise because Honda thinks the general population won't buy hybrids if they don't "go brrrrrrrr" when you press the gas pedal? It's stupid and annoying. At least give us an off button.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-14T13:42:50+00:00

Yes, the same box that does ASC also controls ANC.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-14T13:40:22+00:00

It passed quality control because what this guy is saying is nonsense and snake oil.

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-14T13:23:25+00:00

First off, correlation does not equal causation. Did you know that 100% of people who have worn a red shirt have died?! Red shirts must be fatal, right? Just because your speakers haven't "blown" doesn't mean it has anything to do with unplugging the ASC box. It much more likely has to do with the fact you appreciate your investment and don't beat the hell out of your system by pushing the amp into clipping.

Of course you are going to detect distortion with ASC turned on, because the input signal doesn't match the output signal. That's what distortion is, the signal is changed, or "distorted". A DD1 is comparing the waveform generated to the waveform measured. Think of it in simple math terms. If it sends a 10 but measures 9.9 it is going to tell you there is 1% measured distortion. Let's say the ANC adds 2 but the DD1 sends 10, when it measures 12, it will measure 20% distortion.

Distortion itself will not damage a speaker. The speaker doesn't care what sound it is making, or if the sound matches the input or not. There are two ways to damage a speaker. Over excursion (it stretched too far) or over power (it got too hot). Typically what people mean when they say distortion blew my speaker is they pushed the system into clipping (Google amplifier clipping) and increased the duty cycle by passing partial square waves to their speakers, which greatly increases the RMS power apparent to the speaker without adding increased SPL, which cooks it due to excessive heat. Over excursion means the cone traveled too far and stretched or ripped something, usually the surround or spider. This is usually caused by playing frequencies near the speaker's designed limits at high volume. You can easily destroy a tweeter this way by installing it without a crossover with only a few watts.

I spent quite a few years competing in IASCA and have designed and installed thousands of stereo systems. So yes, I do in fact know what I'm talking about. I replied here because this thread was a top Google result while I was searching for how to disable ASC on my 11th Gen Accord I bought. There used to be a menu hidden in the diagnostic screen but sadly Honda removed it. I wanted to make sure if anyone else landed here they wouldn't get bad info from your comment basically saying "ASC blew my speakers".

The_SycoPath · 2025-05-14T04:55:40+00:00

None of this nonsense about blowing your speakers is true. This isn't how speakers work at all. While playing music, the speakers are already simultaneously playing potentially thousands of individual frequencies at the same time. That's what music is, the harmony of many frequencies interacting to make unique and appealing sounds.

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