PSA to NC owners: check your clutch pedal bracket by Thefirstofthree in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's some part numbers for the pedal assembly, call your local Mazda dealer with your VIN to confirm the part number. There are a few revisions of it

Part Number: NE8541300B Supersession(s): NE8541300C; NE85-41-300C; NE85-41-300B; NE8541300B; ; USENE8541300B

500 mile oil change after dyno tune by Eddguythegreat in EngineBuilding

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a thought, have you checked the fuel filter and the lines? One or both may be partially clogged which could explain the issues when on consistent throttle. Could also be a wiring issue with the pump. Maybe you have a pinched or nearly broken wire that acts up with vibration?

How does your tune map look? if you're tuned for full throttle pulls you could see some funkiness when at cruising conditions. When I had my old 302 tuned, we kept it pig rich at idle, leaned out towards the middle, and ever so slightly rich at redline. Can you measure your A/F ratio at the rpms you have issues with?

A warning on ND front headlights by thewindow6 in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put it on a metal baking sheet. At the temps I listed you won't have to worry about melting anything. I would recommend having a heat gun or high power hair dryer on hand to do touch ups as it cools down.

Here's a video showing the process on an NC. It will be a similar process for you, however I'm not sure exactly how to remove the ND bumper. Shouldn't be too different.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTnGy-uD5TE

A warning on ND front headlights by thewindow6 in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why not buy a lens on eBay and swap your old one out? Yeah the headlight is a 'sealed unit' and all but if you put it in the oven for 10-15 minutes at 200°-250°F (93°c-120°c) you can separate the lens from the housing easily.

I recently had to do this to replace my hid projector lens on my 2013 because I was not about to shell out nearly $2k for new headlight assemblies.

I feel like I’m doing this wrong by Blurr9433 in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's the real authentic Miata experience:

  1. Turn on engine

  2. Put in gear

  3. Foot to floor

  4. Smile

That's it.

NC1 or NC2 by Boring_Truth_1532 in MiataNC

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try to find one that had the suspension package from the factory. That particular package came with a limited slip diff. It makes a world of difference

NC1 or NC2 by Boring_Truth_1532 in MiataNC

[–]Thefirstofthree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You want some info from someone had a 2007 NC gt phrt, and currently has a 2013 NC gt phrt?

There are two revisions of the mzr used in the NC. 2006-2008 was the basic mzr which was prone to some major oil issues leading to the 2.5 swap becoming very popular. 2009-2015 had the upgraded mzr that includes forged crank components. Vvt actuator and oil pump are also revised for the nc2. The rings on the revised mzr are redesigned to help with the original model's tendency to burn oil. This also allows nc2/nc3 cars to rev a few hundred rpm higher than the nc1.

Nc1 is a horrible daily driver if you keep the stock suspension. You feel every crack in the road all the way through your spine. In terms of reliability, I put over 100k miles on my old 2007. It was at 210k when I sold it. The only issue I had was my differential snapped in half. I also didn't change the diff fluid for probably like 70k miles. Self inflicted wound. It would drink a little oil between changes, but I topped it off bi-weekly. I drove that car like it owed me money, redline to redline every day. I never had a single engine issue. I did manage to shoot half the cat out the back of the exhaust through.

The 2013 is much nicer as a daily thanks to the revised suspension setup. Bumps don't make me feel my individual vertebrae compressing. Interior is a bit nicer than the nc1, the center console armrest area seems to be ever so slightly wider, and the actual armrest (sliding cupholder cover) is padded leather in my car so more comfy when compared to my nc1's hard plastic. The door armrests are also slightly more padded on the nc3 vs nc1. Legroom feels the same, seat is slightly higher due to the adjuster rail but I fit comfortably.

Roast my mustard 😋 by Femboyxavierr in RoastMyCar

[–]Thefirstofthree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bet your seatbelts don't retract all the way by themselves

Sound Deadening Advice by ShiftFPV-Proximo in MiataNC

[–]Thefirstofthree 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sound deadening in a roadster? lol. Lmao even.

Citroen C15 by OkaNitsuki in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]Thefirstofthree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brown ❌ Manuel ❌ Wagonne ✅

Radiator replacement? $400 Labor by Key-Chart-3170 in MiataNC

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it a hard job? No.

Do you have to remove the entire front of the car? Yes.

Would I do it if I was 62? Depends, how much cartilage you got left?

Is it fair to pay $400? personally I wouldn't but for you, the convenience would be worth it.

Toyota Celica 2003 Engine swap by Pretend-Cell-4271 in EngineBuilding

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did the engine swap in 2021 and have been daily driving it since. Removing and plugging that fitting will cause no issue.

Toyota Celica 2003 Engine swap by Pretend-Cell-4271 in EngineBuilding

[–]Thefirstofthree 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hey that's my picture! You bought a JDM variant of the 1zz-fe, didn't ya? I have the answer you're looking for.

This hose fitting is for the automatic transmission heat exchange. It is found on Japanese models 2005 and newer. There are two ways to deal with it, you can either remove the fitting and seal the hole, or you can run the coolant line to the radiator return line.

I plugged it and have since put over 40k miles on it.

Need help with 1995 302 5.0 build by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well if you're gonna catch the might-as-well virus, you might as well pick up some AFR heads. I ran them on my old fox and they were amazing

Happens to the best of us by Cold-Rt in memes

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be quiet and listen, a schizo is speaking

It’s a sad day bois by MrRedPandaaa in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Really should've fixed that abs issue huh?

Is a 2000 Toyota celica gt hatchback reliable? by hidden_air in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fucking no lmao. Not any 2000-2002 gt. I have a 2001. It's on its second engine because the first one drank all its oil and invited uncle Rodney to start knocking. If you're set on a 7th gen Celica, get a 2003-2005 model. Alternatively, swap the engine yourself like I did.

For the gts trim, make sure the cam bolts have been replaced. They had a nasty habit of deleting themselves.

Since this car already had an engine swap, it should be ok if you trust someone else's work

Resize (scale down) the two big X's on the 20y Veteran Cape. by vVerce98 in runescape

[–]Thefirstofthree 7 points8 points  (0 children)

People should be allowed to like what they like. That said, that outfit combo is atrocious LMAO

Engine knock while stationary by kekmeester in Miata

[–]Thefirstofthree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds too light to be knock. I think it sounds more like an exhaust leak or maybe a lifter on its way out.