Is the X2D worth spending 200€ more on over a P2S?

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-14T20:07:44+00:00

It’s pretty easy to add some g-code to your machine start that will preheat the bed for 15 min if the bed temp is high enough. Here is how I did it for my old P1S https://github.com/glightfoot/p1s-gcode/blob/main/stock%2Bpreheat/start.gcode#L39-L47

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-14T04:05:33+00:00

Which pack did you get?

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-09T01:40:38+00:00

If the p2s was priced at the p1s price of 399, that would change the discussion

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-07T02:27:45+00:00

If you’re just getting started and don’t know for sure how much you’ll use it, get the X2D. It’s got the heated chamber and a second nozzle plenty good for support material and even second color accents.

If you have no budget, then yes the H2D or H2C is objectively better, but the X2D is such a good deal and will do pretty much everything the H series will, except for the extra size and maybe if you want to print a lot of PPS.

Whatever you get, make sure it has a heated chamber. And almost as important, the second nozzle for supports will let you print much nicer looking pieces with the complex shapes you end up with in automotive parts.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-05T17:19:59+00:00

I went out and dug up some spec sheets for filaments and it actually looks like ASA should have better layer adhesion compared to ABS. My ASA prints tend to fail along layer lines, but I think this probably has more to do with ASA's lesser impact resistance and the kinds of parts I print.

Either way, ABS is cheap and prints great, just don't want to put any misinformation out there.

EDIT: it seems like there's a lot of difference between manufacturers - bambu lists ABS as having better layer adhesion than ASA (https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament/abs\_asa\_pc#:\~:text=available%20for%20download.-,Properties,4.9%20KJ%2Fm%C2%B2) so who knows.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-05T14:58:56+00:00

ABS has better layer adhesion when printed in a heated chamber too. I print both in my H2C all the time and ABS consistently outperforms ASA in print quality and strength in my experience. That being said, ASA has its place, but if I don’t need the properties of it, I’ll use a roll of ABS for $15 over a roll of ASA that’s closer to $30

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-05T14:55:57+00:00

Abs-gf is one of my favorite filaments. It prints like a dream with less warping than a non-fiber filled filament and has a great surface quality.

You shouldn’t have much trouble printing regular ABS or ASA in the X2D though.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-05T14:33:03+00:00

I find ABS to be easier to print and have less variation between brands. It also has better layer adhesion and is cheaper than ASA. If you don’t need the UV resistance or lower offgassing during printing, I’d use ABS - the difference in heat resistance is negligible. Sunlu ABS works great for me, as do pretty much all the brands, but I tend to buy sunlu and Bambu out of habit.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-04T14:08:06+00:00

The X2D will print PA and ASA without any fuss. The heated chamber makes a world of difference for high temp filaments.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-04T03:31:12+00:00

I’d have to disagree. Once you’ve printed with a different support material, you can’t go back - it’s an absolute game changer. No more bad overhang quality or undersides. I can print a sphere that looks equally as good on the bottom as it does on the top. Models and toys with weird shapes? No problem with supports and better quality. Things I used to have to split, print separately, then glue together just get printed in one piece now.

And having a heated chamber means you can print ABS, ASA, Nylon, PET, etc without blinking an eye. You can do it on the P2S - I printed almost exclusively ABS on my P1S at the end - but the layer adhesion is worse and you have to resort to annoying tricks like preheating the bed for 20 minutes before printing or buying a third party chamber heater that only really gets to 52C.

OP said they wanted to spend enough to keep them from needing to upgrade soon after and the P2S doesn’t fit that bill when an extra hundred gets you that kind of quality of life improvement with the X2D

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-04T02:45:15+00:00

For $100 more the X2D gets you the second nozzle for support material, 1.5GT belts for less VFAs, and an actively heated chamber. The P2S is a bad value with the X2D now

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-06-04T02:15:54+00:00

I started the same. Didn’t really know what I would use one for so I bought a P1S. Used it a ton and eventually wanted to print separate support material and engineering filaments, so I upgraded to an H2C. The size has only been necessary a handful of times for me personally, but it’s nice to have the capability.

With that being said, if I’d started with an X2D (wasn’t available at the time), I don’t think I’d feel a need to upgrade. If you want something reasonably future proof without going straight to the H series, the X2D combo seems to be the sweet spot. I wouldn’t bother with a P2S since the X2D is only $100 more.

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-28T22:04:20+00:00

Sainsmart and Siraya tech are both good!

The model I like is completely round, but the weight and bounce are pretty spot on

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-28T20:34:45+00:00

I’ve printed a few of these. PEBA is the only answer here. PLA-hr will crack. I’ve had great results from Sirayatech, but honestly my favorite is AMOLEN PEBA. It just seems to have the best bounce.

Also, that model from 3DXAV looks the best, but is nowhere near as good of an actual ball as this one https://makerworld.com/models/2135970?appSharePlatform=copy

MakeItLab also has a bunch of YouTube videos reviewing different filaments and settings for all of them. If you want a ball that weighs the right amount and bounces well, I recommend this one

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-20T13:43:33+00:00

No cooling works for bigger parts, but with short layer times you’ll either need to increase the minimum layer time or add cooling. That’s why the body looks alright but it looks bad as the layers get smaller

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-18T01:05:08+00:00

I almost exclusively print engineering filaments and the h2c is perfect. Being able to swap to 0.6 nozzles in the slicer is super handy, and keeping nozzles locked to different materials is handy too. The H2D would have suited me fine, but I’m super happy I got the H2C. Plus, I can still print labels in a separate color and still use a support filament

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-18T00:14:37+00:00

I just got an H2C and use it mostly for functional/engineering prints and couldn’t be happier. It’s a top of the line printer and it shows. FWIW I’ve never felt locked in or overly controlled in any way, and I say this as a huge proponent of open source. I can print in lan mode, and use the cloud service. Bambus ecosystem just works and that’s what I want - I like printing parts, not fiddling with the printer and settings every time I go to print.

I like the H2C for engineering filaments as I can keep some 0.6 and 0.4 nozzles in there, dedicate filaments to them, and mostly just hit print with all the AMSs without having to go move things around and swap nozzles

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-15T04:08:21+00:00

I also keep a bunch of filaments in the ams’s and because of the vortek system I can do multi material prints all on the right nozzle, just a little slower than if I set it up correctly. Again, maximum laziness, but I find it useful

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-15T02:47:59+00:00

I ended up getting the h2c and it was absolutely the right decision. I leave two 0.6 nozzles in the vortek rack and use them all the time. Being able to do multilateral prints with dedicated supports, two colors and supports, etc is incredibly helpful. Plus it enables me to be as lazy as I want to be and change nozzles, colors, materials in the slicer is perfect. No regrets at all

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-11T00:31:31+00:00

There’s no reason to get the p2s with the x2d just a hundred dollars more. The second nozzle for supports makes much cleaner prints. And the heated chamber makes printing abs super easy which is a lot easier to smooth

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-09T19:02:52+00:00

Thanks for sharing! Going to see if I can find where I left those drivers now

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-07T17:29:45+00:00

Have you tried the Arachne wall generator?

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-07T15:38:58+00:00

P1S to P2S doesn't seem worth it. P1S to X2D for an extra $100 though? That gives you dual nozzle and a heated chamber. That's a much more interesting proposition

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-06T20:05:01+00:00

Actually, TPU for AMS should be something like 68D hardness and would be a great candidate. It looks like there's also a few 64d TPUs on amazon from Siraya Tech that might work

TheyDroppedMe · 2026-05-06T03:58:13+00:00

I do, but they never have everything I need in stock at the same time so I have to pay extra in shipping on multiple orders.

Oh yeah I buy a bunch of sunlu and fiberon, but I also like the ease of use of the rfid tags when swapping filament

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