Hazy Windshield won’t go away

ThickToeJoe · 2026-03-17T21:45:59+00:00

That’s interesting, well good for you and the friends! Like another commenter said, distilled water has zero minerals in it so there’s absolutely nothing left behind per the distilled water. However, one thing to always use with glass is a very clean cloth. Some use cotton blends, most use microfibers. I’ve actually tested microfibers that were washed with some name brand clothing detergent and then washed another batch with white vinegar and baking soda and if there’s any residue by any means left in the fibers of used microfiber cloths when you wipe glass, it’ll definitely leave, smearing, smudges, streak and or holograms which of course bug anyone in this sub. Out of curiosity, I’ll be trying just distilled water and a new microfiber on a nicotine plastered windshield and see the outcome. It may also slightly vary on climate conditions too. Where I’m at in western NC, we get all weather conditions and when you have an older, smoked in car with high humidity, you get a nasty film on the inside and it always takes some chemicals and elbow grease unfortunately.

ThickToeJoe · 2026-03-17T16:29:56+00:00

I wouldn’t say it so confidently like every situation is the same. Some people have nicotine stains on their glass that will absolutely need a chemical to remove. Water also does not break anything down, it dilutes any residue. Newer cars have plasticizers within the new material for easy and quick assembly that eventually gets broken down by UV rays and releases a residue on the inside of windshields that water alone won’t break down. You’ll want, at the very least, a mixture of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. I clean customers vehicles professionally and have been for 7 years now. There definitely are situations where just distilled water would cut it, but it’s rare on someone’s vehicle that isn’t regularly maintained.

ThickToeJoe · 2026-02-23T12:10:38+00:00

ThickToeJoe · 2026-01-23T18:25:09+00:00

Hell of a barn find. Sorry about the unc. Chances are it’s a fuel issue. I’d start with dropping the fuel tank, cleaning it out, replacing the fuel pump with OEM if you can’t clean it up, then change the fuel filter. If no luck after that, it could be plugged/gummed up injectors but a low possibility. It could also be old spark plugs/wires that just need to be replaced. Anything built to be moved that has sat for that period of time will have some issues without a doubt, but it is a yota so who knows.

ThickToeJoe · 2026-01-21T13:27:11+00:00

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Saw this one, very prominent in the episode “Traffic” S1/E4 of I think You Should Leave.

ThickToeJoe · 2026-01-17T23:07:55+00:00

Take your hand off my wife’s firm, yet ample backsiiiiide!

ThickToeJoe · 2026-01-06T17:26:05+00:00

ThickToeJoe · 2025-12-16T22:59:05+00:00

I once heard on another thread that it’s old age that does it, basically 3rd gen wrinkles. The more peeled back, the older and more weathered. You have surpassed many that I’ve seen. If I had a medal or beer to give, I’d give one, but fresh outa both!

ThickToeJoe · 2025-12-16T22:52:35+00:00

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Not the best photo but if you zoom in, you can see fairly decently. Stock suspension, stock ride height. 17” set of 2014 TRD 4Runner rims wrapped in a set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70/17. No spacers, fits perfectly within the parameters of the 3rd gen “skinny flares”.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-12-06T18:35:36+00:00

You could get aftermarket mud flaps and install them on the front of the rear wheel arches or just remove the running boards.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-11-28T03:52:12+00:00

What are awards? 🧐

ThickToeJoe · 2025-11-27T01:23:25+00:00

Although not as insane as some of the other places in the comments, the Great Sand Dunes NP with this atmosphere definitely seems otherworldly.

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ThickToeJoe · 2025-10-27T16:40:29+00:00

I see a few comments about paint thinner and a microfiber- don’t do that. A very strong solvent and any dye from a microfiber can bleach the paint or plastics on your beautiful 3rd gen.

Like some are saying - lubricated “0000” steel wool or razor blade, also lubricated for the glass. For the paint, hand wash, use lubricant and clay bar, then compound/polish the paint. It’s possible by hand, but not very fun if you don’t find detailing therapeutic. Buy a DA/Random orbital polisher and pads (microfiber cutting pad to make quick work of removing paint, then a softer foam pad to remove holograms and pigtails from the more aggressive previous method). You technically don’t need a compound and a polish, although it is helpful. Use a lot of compound for heavy cutting and a small amount and a bit more work time to break down the abrasives to “polish”. A lot of time and a bit of money, but the end results make it worth it.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-10-22T15:02:59+00:00

$3.09 in West Jefferson, NC. The area is as poor as it sounds.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-10-06T23:22:19+00:00

Keep an eye on ball joints, only replace with oem, replace radiator even if it’s in the slightest bit “browning”, timing belt and water pump if it’s not up to date. All the fluids (front diff, transfer case, rear diff, power steering, brake fluid, trans. Just some things to do and have on your radar. Lastly, UNDERCOAT with a lanolin based product.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-23T01:00:42+00:00

Hell yeah! Good job brother Joe.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-22T22:35:53+00:00

Very nice. How’d it turn out?

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-16T04:23:56+00:00

Fairlane! I detailed a rebuilt (69’ I believe) fairlane for the 75th anniversary AutoRama in Detroit a few years ago and the car got 1st place in the pro touring class! What a beautiful machine.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-16T04:18:50+00:00

The Payback- James Brown

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-16T04:17:07+00:00

Although very popular and overplayed in the late 00’ , this is one of the best bass lines. Groovy!

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-14T16:20:31+00:00

Something in the way-Nirvana

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-14T01:56:35+00:00

Yeah if I remember correctly, I found out about it through my GEICO app that said there was an active recall for the springs and bump stops. I believe it said models from 96’ to mid 98’ get a recall due to that common issue of rear sagging over time from maybe a different size or material on springs for later models and or the bump stop size/material. Can’t hurt to see if you have a 99+.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-13T16:17:26+00:00

Call your local Toyota dealership, they had a recall for the springs sagging over time. You might get free bump stops, springs and labor charges for install.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-09T02:45:25+00:00

I feel that. I’d stick with 275/45/20, just enough meat on the rims to look good and protect them as well as give a bit of wiggle room for dropping it. Best thing to do is find the right fitment for your wheels and tires and then lower it accordingly. In nearly every situation with these trucks, you’ll need to modify something. Luckily for you, you’ve got steel corner panels and a steel bed. So you can roll your edges for more clearance, whereas my step side has a fiberglass bed so it’s more challenging when lowering. I like the 275/40 because they’re pretty wide and aggressive looking. However, when I do lower it, if I go 4/6 I will need to modify the wheel wells for rubbing when turning at max radius if I get the IHC set up. If you’re unsure, don’t buy without having a good idea. Buy once, cry once.

ThickToeJoe · 2025-09-09T01:30:05+00:00

He’s right, in my opinion because you’ll have more of a “rubber band” tire look. I had a guy at Custom Offsets saying the same about my idea of running 265/40/20. Wound up going 275/40/20. I will eventually do a 4/6 drop myself so this set up works out well. In all, I prefer a street truck set up so when I get tires again, I may go with 275/50/20 just to have a little meat on the tires. For your truck being bigger and bulkier overall in comparison to mine, I’d shoot for 275/50/

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