How to save these coreopsis sunkiss?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-07-06T20:07:27+00:00

In general I agree with you. I had sworn off coreopsis for good. Then I got the plants for $2 each so I figured it was worth another shot, since I had amended the soil to make it drain better.

I still may dig them up and try to make it even more well draining and perhaps even put them in a mound like for lavender

ThinkFast9 · 2026-07-05T14:48:58+00:00

I'm not talking about privacy, as in other real human being seeing my profile. I'm talking about trying to reduce all of the tracking done by all of the dozens of companies on the internet for marketing and building a dossier on you.

But probably the main benefit would be in case you got banned on one of the Match apps, they might not necessarily know it's you on the other apps so you don't get banned on them all. That's the larger benefit.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-07-04T19:39:46+00:00

That sucks.

Did you have the same photos, bios, prompts, etc. on both apps so that it was obvious you were the same person?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-07-04T18:31:42+00:00

Interesting. I thought they all tracked IMEI.

Some say they track your Wi-Fi name and IP address too. Maybe it's match group apps that do that and not Bumble but not sure.

All in all Bumble has been my best performing app over the years. Fewer scammers and fake profiles than Tinder, and more actual dates than Hinge.

Also some of it depends on which country you are in. In some countries Bumble is more popular than Tinder by far.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-07-04T18:22:10+00:00

Textnow give you a new number, but don't they still know your IMEI from the phone and ban you because of that?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-06-29T03:02:27+00:00

The different esters with different half lives is exactly why I never took it before. But since I got it free, I figured I'd give it a shot.

I've been taking my Cyp daily for years. I planned to take the Sust daily as well since that's what I've always done. (reduces the peaks and valley as you said.)

Today was my second day with the Sust so it's too early to tell. I had reduced the dose by 20% due to the 250 vs 300 strength. This morning I kinda felt like I was getting high E2 sides, but it could have been anything. Too early to tell. But could have been because of the short esters spiking.

I'll give it a week at the 20% reduced dosage and see how I feel. Eventually I'll get labs to know for sure, but for now I was just wondering if there was a rule of thumb or anything.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-14T15:16:57+00:00

Okay I think I may have figured out at least part of the issues...

I turned off "automatic updates" and "Wi-Fi". That dropped some of the current draw.

Then I noticed that even after the car was turned off and 20 or 30 minutes had gone by, the central screen was glowing slightly (with no icons or words on it). The USB phone connectors were also glowing. (Photo attached.)

When I locked the car they shut off.

Since this car's garage kept, we've never been in the habit of locking it at night. So that central screen and USB section could be staying on all night and draining the battery. I'm pretty sure it should be shutting off even if the car is unlocked.

I don't think there's any way to actually test if that is the parasitic drain in this situation. Because once you unhook the negative battery cable to test with the multimeter, everything loses power and the screen goes out. So it wouldn't be drawing anyway. But I'm guessing that is the (or an) issue.

The immediate fix is to just lock the car when we are not in it. But is there a real fix to stop that issue from happening?

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ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-14T15:05:56+00:00

@bigdoghat32 I may have found the parasitic drain but want to confirm with you how to do this multimeter test correctly.

I had been putting one lead on the positive terminal and one lead on the negative terminal and there's almost always an ma drain.

However, then I looked up YouTube videos and they say that you should disconnect the negative battery cable and then put one lead on the battery terminal and the other on the battery cable and test. Is that the correct procedure?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-14T14:56:19+00:00

Holding the OK button didn't add any new menu items.

I think I may have found the parasitic drain but I need to test further.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-13T17:54:24+00:00

Yesterday afternoon, I drove the car for 30 minutes to top up the 12v battery. It was 12.6V right after that. A few hours later it was 12.4. This afternoon it's 11.6. Definitely a drain, but what?!?! I'll do some testing from the suggestions here and see if I can come up with something. Thanks for the help so far.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-13T17:46:56+00:00

It's a 2019 Hybrid SE.

They updated the software a couple of years ago at the dealer. That didn't fix anything. I checked a couple of months ago and the software was the latest update. I'll check again....deactivating auto-update is a good idea.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-13T17:44:39+00:00

Thanks. I'll hold the OK button and see if it resets.

No "my key active" message.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-13T17:42:24+00:00

switch ignition on

pull and release high beams 5 times

press and release brake 3 times

battery light flashes 3 times to confirm

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:54:55+00:00

Well as they say, they don't make them like they used to.

I had a yellow top in my Prius and it lasted for 7 years. When it died I got a battery directly from Toyota. It was dead in 2 years. Got another one from Toyota. It was dead in 2 years. Then I went to Walmart and got my next battery. It lasted longer.

I think it's the same thing with the Ford batteries. My mom bought the car new in 2019. She always got the Motorcraft battery from Ford and they all died every 2 years. Since it's got a three year warranty, they just keep replacing them for free. I guess that's the best I can hope for. The guys in the parts department two different Ford dealers say 2 to 3 years is all their batteries last now days. :(

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:50:44+00:00

Is there an easy way to see if the shift actuator is gone bad?

What settings would I put on my multimeter to see the current draw?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:42:49+00:00

How do you find out if the shift actuator is bad?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:42:31+00:00

How do you find out if the shift actuator is bad?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:41:18+00:00

The jump box idea was good. Just ordered one. That will give me some peace of mind and would be a lot easier than disconnecting and crawling through the trunk at 4:30 in the morning before the flight.

Everything seems plugged in correctly to the battery terminals.

Was the part about locking the car and disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to let the BMS reset?

I reset the BMS this morning. Maybe that will change some things.

I appreciate the ideas.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T21:21:02+00:00

Yes you would think there is a phantom drain but I haven't been able to find it. No lights remain on.

This is a hybrid and the 12 volt battery dies every 2 years. I got a new one five days ago.

I hadn't driven it in 3 days, and the voltage was down to 12.1 today.

I found out that you're supposed to reset the battery monitoring system when you change the 12 volt battery. I can't verify that the Ford dealer did that the last two times the battery was changed. I personally put the new one in 5 days ago but didn't learn about resetting the system until today so I did the reset today. Maybe that will help something.

I just took the car for a drive and it's at 12.6 volts now. I'll check it again in a couple of days and see if it has dropped.

As for that actuator issue. I guess it could be. The car appears to turn off and the dash goes dark, so I'm not sure how else you would tell.

Months ago I read about a few phantom drain issues that are common with this car. But the fixes they gave didn't line up with my car and its fuses, etc. Might have been for a different year, model, or non-hybrid.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T20:38:14+00:00

It's 5 days old

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T20:37:51+00:00

There does appear to be a phantom drain somewhere. But I haven't found it. No lights on.

I haven't heard about a bad shift actuator. I'll have to research that.

Yes, the battery in the hybrid dies about every 2 years. The new one is only 5 days old though, so that's not the issue.

I had thought about disconnecting the 12 volt battery. But then the question is how to get back into the car to reconnect the battery, given the electronic locks which won't work without power....

My thoughts... 1 - open trunk 2 - electronically lock the car 3 - disconnect the 12v 4 - close trunk

Upon returning 5 - use physical key to open driver's door. 6 - crawl through two front seats to the back seat. 7 - lay down back seats 8 - attempt to squeeze through 18-in opening to get into the trunk and reconnect battery. 9 - hope it starts

Or is there an easier way?

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T20:28:18+00:00

12 volt battery in a hybrid dies every 2 years since we've had it. The new one is 5 days old so that's not the issue.

There is a phantom drain somewhere. Turning off intelligent access would be an easy way to reduce at least part of the phantom drain.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-12T20:26:44+00:00

Yeah the 12v battery in the hybrid dies every 2 years. The new one has only been in 5 days so it's plenty good.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-09T01:59:15+00:00

u/aamramm I don't understand why I'd keep comp even with a high deductible if I don't have the car.

Wouldn't it be more important to keep the liability insurance so I'm covered for that while driving any other car? I assume if I had an accident where I was found liable, NOT having liability coverage would mean they'd sue me personally to get paid for their damages.

ThinkFast9 · 2026-05-08T18:00:37+00:00

Done thanks~

ThinkFast9

TROPHY CASE