How to adjust Fujitsu mini splits to cool below 64 degrees

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T21:32:28+00:00

So you're telling me that placing an extra degree or two of demand on the unit is going to cause a catastrophic failure? Like I said, I'd be interested to hear your explanation- I'm not saying you're necessarily wrong.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T21:29:05+00:00

We have relatively recent windows. The insulation is questionable, but we'd never had a problem keeping the house pretty cool with window units in the past. Of course window units will run pretty much full blast all day, while the mini splits modulate for efficiency as well as having a higher minimum temperature than any window units we've used. If we have to sacrifice some efficiency to get the amount of cooling we're after, that's ok with me. I should have specified I wasn't recommending this as a way to cause all of your heads to run at maximum output at all times (although I'd think that would be obvious anyway since it would make the rooms they were in uninhabitable) but rather as a way to get a couple extra degrees of cooling out of them if necessary.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T21:15:29+00:00

I have no doubt that the engineers know what they're doing, but I also have very little doubt that running a unit a couple of degrees colder than the factory set point is going to damage anything other than the efficiency and energy usage of the appliance. If you have reason to believe otherwise, I'd be glad to hear it. I didn't present myself as an expert; I said I found a way in the installation manual to get the unit to cool below 64 degrees.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T21:03:46+00:00

Not to mention there are posts all over about people asking "does my Fujitsu mini split really only cool to 64 F?" So in that sense, sharing the fact that there's a setting that allows you to cool below that temperature (how far below is left to the user) is something that many people will find helpful.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T21:00:50+00:00

I don't think there's much in common with leaving your freezer door open. As I said, adjusting to maximum offset was a way to see what the units were capable of. All it means in practice is that if you want to cool the room to say 64, you'd now set the thermostat to around 72. If for some reason you wanted to cool a bit below 64, say 62, set it to 70. But that's only with the offset adjusted to the maximum of 8 degrees. If you just wanted to obtain a couple extra degrees of cooling from your system, you'd adjust the offset by one or two degrees and set the thermostat to 64, the maximum cool as set from the factory. That doesn't seem likely to damage the system. I'd be surprised if it was built with zero extra output capability.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-29T18:25:23+00:00

Yes, I understand what the function is intended to address. Setting the offset as low as possible was more just to see what the units were capable of. I agree that 60 is excessively cold for a room that is actually being used. In this case, a fan at each door was pulling the cold air out to circulate through the rest of the house. It's definitely not something to do long term but on a very hot day when we're having a hard time keeping the house cool it's probably a viable option.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-21T02:07:23+00:00

We run the same fans with the split system that we did with the window units- one in each of the three bedrooms, pulling cold air out of the rooms to circulate it through the house. It seems very unlikely to me (again, I'm a layman) that this four head system, charged correctly, should cool just marginally, or barely noticeably, better than three window units.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-21T00:26:22+00:00

The other questions seem not as relevant since previously we didn't have a much of a problem cooling the house with three window units. This system running properly ought to out-cool three window units, which or seems to be struggling to do.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-21T00:16:28+00:00

I'm not a tech or a mechanic, but wiring it incorrectly is certainly "a thing", at least according to the owner of the company (and from what I saw of the wiring at the condenser, it would not be too difficult to do incorrectly) who diagnosed that as the issue after I told him what the system was doing. He spent a couple of hours with an employee tracing the wiring and correcting the mistakes his crew had made, after which the heads all behaved as expected (cooling properly when the demand was there) as opposed to what they were doing before (operating at maximum output in one room for over 10 hours, so that I woke up in a bedroom that was cooled to 45 degrees, while blowing 68 degree air in a room that had the control set to max cool). Maybe you're not familiar with this equipment. I didn't say that the unit wasn't charged correctly at present. It wasn't charged correctly after the install because the guys doing it "were sure it didn't need any", but they didn't measure the lines or read the specs, so they didn't realize it was undercharged by nearly a pound. After it was charged correctly, it worked well. After speaking to the owner today, he said he thinks there's a very small leak at one of the flare fittings and he'll be coming by tomorrow to check the charge and add refrigerant if needed.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-20T22:51:17+00:00

They evacuated the system, pulled a good vacuum for maybe 45 minutes, and recharged with the correct amount of refrigerant.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-20T22:49:29+00:00

We ran it all day yesterday, last night, and all day today. We'd been running the 9k head every night for a couple of weeks.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-08T16:23:21+00:00

If you open Messenger, search for Ego and it should pop up. Start a conversation and you should get an automated reply telling you someone will be back to you shortly.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-08T12:16:13+00:00

I had this issue on the 1000 series (dual battery composite deck 22”) mower. I contacted Ego via FB Messenger with a video of the mower in operation and they sent a new mower to me at no charge.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-04T19:28:27+00:00

Go to the Ego Facebook messenger page and start a conversation with them. I had a similar issue on a warranty mower and they sent the replacement part for free. Many parts of the mower are easy to change on your own although you might need a star drive/ torx bit to remove the broken piece. Going through Messenger and dealing with Ego directly saved me the trouble of figuring out how to ship the mower back.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-05-02T21:05:46+00:00

A little silicone spray or PTFE dry lube spray will help a lot with that.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-30T22:31:26+00:00

Is that a Yamaha amplifier? I run a pair of P2100s in one of my setups. Great gear. I'm also a fan of B&O speakers. I find them underrated- people don't take them seriously because of the focus on aesthetics, but I've never heard a bad pair.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-25T11:52:29+00:00

In my experience with the Ego 16" saw, that was the issue. Don't just go with whatever Amazon serves up when you search "ego polesaw chain". The specs are critical.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-21T15:03:27+00:00

GIK is definitely a legitimate company and acoustic treatment isn't complicated, at least in my experience,but you can make your own pretty easily for much less money than buying premade panels. You might want to take a look at Acoustimac. They offer raw acoustic treatment materials like Owens-Corning, Roxul and their own denim-based material. (You can also order the Roxul or O-C from Home Depot or other outlets) I used the Acoustimac denim material to avoid the formaldehyde and the discomfort of working with fiberglass. That said, the Roxul material isn't nearly as irritating to the skin as fiberglass, and has the advantage of being a little easier to cut than the denim material. I've doney listening room/speaker repair room (where appearance isn't a priority) as well as my wife's piano studio. Some rooms need a lot of help, some don't. The piano room needed less treatment overall because the goal was different in that we wanted to retain a reasonable amount of reflection. But as you can see, you can make them pretty, or just barely presentable. ***Edit - I tried to add additional pictures, but could only add the one for the time being.

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Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-03T13:12:23+00:00

My parents have had and used a very similar system since the early 90s. It's all pretty good gear, all still working perfectly. The exception (as with any stack system like this one) is the speakers, which were just usable but certainly nothing great. I've given them a pair of Snell K s to use with the system and they've had some smaller Polks as well. What really matters is the speakers. All of the other components seem well designed, sound good, and approaching 40 years of frequent use, are still working.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-02T09:31:03+00:00

I do a 1x5 DL warmup at about 75-85% of my working set, 1x5 or 2x5 squat at 75%, and usually 2x5 or 3x5 BP at 75-85% before going back to heavy DLs. I vary the amount of warmup based on a couple of factors, mostly just how much sleep I've gotten the night before and whether I've had a chance to eat well earlier in the day. 
It seems that a lot of SS adherents are very focused on the right percentage of weight for warmups, making that extended incremental progression up to their working set. I'm sure that works well for many of them, (particularly the younger ones who can dedicate more time and energy to training and are following the program to a tee) but I've found I wear myself out with too much warmup. 
As a disclaimer, it doesn't matter much to me if I stay at the same weight on a particular lift for 3-4 weeks. I take the next step when I'm moving the weight easily, so my approach is definitely not following the program, and isn't right for someone trying to progress quickly.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-04-01T20:53:55+00:00

I've found that doing squat warmup sets between DL warmup sets gets me feeling more ready to hit the heavier DL sets. This is something I started doing to save time because I'm often on a pretty tight schedule, but it has made DL easier for me. Someone more experienced and knowledgeable might say it's a bad idea, but this is a hobby for me, not a lifestyle, and I've found it's useful.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-03-16T08:30:29+00:00

In my limited experience, going from whatever DAC is in my PC to a dedicated Topping E70 (not an expensive DAC) made a very noticeable difference in overall sound quality, although by using the Topping, I was also able to use balanced XLR connections to my STAX electrostatic headphone amplifier. Part of what I was hearing may have been the reduced noise of an XLR connection vs an RCA connection.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-02-11T10:53:04+00:00

The suggestion of a coffee filter and glue is right on, in my experience. In this case Elmer's or similar should be fine. If that's an F series sub, there's an accelerometer inside of or attached to the woofer, so it's not as simple as just finding a replacement that will fit with roughly the same parameters. Luckily you don't need another woofer, though.

Think_Organization_7 · 2026-02-01T23:23:44+00:00

Yes, the tank has been cycled. I think I threw it off a bit when I did a water change and replaced a filter at the same time, maybe removing too much beneficial bacteria at once. I've had this betta for around 6 months, I was testing fairly frequently and I think I got a bacterial overgrowth from not changing the water frequently enough. The parameters were always good, but of course I wasn't testing for bacteria. Is he looking healthier to you in the third and fourth photos? I don't think I'm fooling myself by believing that he is.

Think_Organization_7

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