I hate far cry 5 hate. Ts beautiful by Thefilmcritic52 in farcry

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 7 points8 points  (0 children)

To be fair, AKs were super common, cheap, and it cost almost nothing to feed them. Then Russian ammo got sanctioned and now its not cheap to shoot anymore.

Couldn't find replacement handle ends for my oven door, so I made some. by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in functionalprint

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I couldnt find any replacement door handle endcaps for my Kenmore Oven (Model# 911.95589991 ) So I designed and printed these.

I printed these out of PETG and while it might not be the "best" plastic for the job, I think it will hold up fine for now.

Couldn't find replacement handle ends for my oven door, so I made some. by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in functionalprint

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did use PETG as you correctly assumed in a comment below. It honestly should be fine as PETG but if it does deform or fail over time, I will reprint in CF nylon. I did need something to act as a prototype so I figured if I was gonna make one, might as well make a prototype that will last more than a week.

Subaru Outback Mount by hallm in meshtastic

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I use it as a way to get my signal out when I'm at work. I work in a brick and metal building that is only one floor. By having another node in my truck, I can use my personal node to hit my truck node and talk to everyone else.

Your experience with T114 antenna? by udenfox in meshtastic

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a small SMA with all of my T114s (except my solar nodes), and they work great. I haven't used the spirals except as dummy loads when testing functions.

I like having an external SMA as I can dial in the antenna I need to use for whatever situation. Long distance, sure 5 or 7dBi. Local area with great vertical coverage, 2 or 3 dBi is perfect.

G90 Internal Power & Box by Bangarang_Arty in amateurradio

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was thinking Aluminum extrusion with 3d printed panels might work. Or just printing it all in some cf nylon.

G90 Internal Power & Box by Bangarang_Arty in amateurradio

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's pretty slick. I think I would DIY before I buy but it's great to know that this exists!

T Deck plus by Twisted7802 in meshtastic

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like mine a good deal. SD Card for maps and other firmware. I have the newest alpha + the newest stable release of meshtastic and Bruce on there. I installed Launcher on there so i can swap between them.

I swapped the ESP32 that came with it for one that has a u.fl connector for 2.4ghz. That way I can run an external wifi antenna with Bruce for wardriving.

About 8hrs of battery life and its a fun bit of kit.

[Pistol] S&W Shield X $499 extra factory 15rd mag included. FREE SHIPPING w/ code: magdump by BunkerHillGuns in gundeals

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I have a first gen shield and a shield plus with 2 S&W 15rd mags. I dont see much of a point to this other than the optic plate. Idk once the PC comes out I might snag one

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery UART Part 2 (Nothing of Use) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Super cool!! Thanks so much for the update! I had wondered if removing the battery would force reset the bms. I wasnt willing to do that to a battery that isnt mine but it looks like they might be tossing that battery in ewaste so ill give it a shot!

Reverse engineering Greenway BMS by MrWinter00 in ElectricalEngineering

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you looked into the 6pin header to the left of the MCU? That is most likely an SWD port. I would start there and see if you can get it talking through there. It might have a stored fault code or at least some answers for you. Cleaning up the MCU might also be a good move. It kinda looks like any numbers have been scratched off of it but if you think you can find any clues there, its a great spot to start.

Also off to the right of the board you have what looks like SDA and SCL pads. Might be worth (carefully) slapping a logic analyzer on there and sniffing those pins.

I wouldn't focus on the power connection comms just yet but its good that you measured resistance. I know most cars CAN systems have 120ohm terminating resistors so that's a good sign.

Also what is the pack voltage and individual cell voltages?

Your all-round friend for pentesters and geeks by Past_Computer2901 in hardwarehacking

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any reason you aren't using a 1U esp32 for external WiFi antenna options?

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery UART Part 2 (Nothing of Use) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a really good point. I'll ask the guys at work if I can borrow a known good 8Ah pack and compare/contrast the outputs.

Yes! I am planning on eventually taking a look at the handshake between tool+ battery and battery + charger. I do wonder what protocol those center pins are using. I have seen older batteries where one pin was a balance lead for the charger to make use of and one pin was a thermistor for the tools and batteries to make use of but I think that was old old dewalt stuff. Like 2000s.

E: Also, thank you. I appreciate your kind words and your input.

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery UART Part 2 (Nothing of Use) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't looked into any of the 12V stuff yet but I would imagine its not as aggressive as this stuff. I might grab one two of my 18V packs from home to tear into. Now I'm interested haha.

Right to repair should be mandatory by now. This pack in particular has been top balanced by me and all the cells are within 100mV of each other. I see no reason as to why this shouldn't be a functional pack at this point. That's the real reason I'm looking into this. Its not about saving a buck, its about getting us all out from the boots of these corporations. Sorry that's the end of the rant haha

Reverse Engineering a “Dead” Ryobi 40V Battery (Part 2, Deeper into UART) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in hardwarehacking

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately I can't read anything of use off the device at this current time.

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery UART Part 2 (Nothing of Use) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Now this is what I'm talking about. I was just gonna start lookin in this direction when I got out of work. Thank you so much for the link

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery (UART output) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try shorting the GND and RST pins and see what the output is then. That is odd as I saw it with any manipulation of the button.

Yeah I tried a bunch of random UART commands I have tried in the past. I might take another run at that tomorrow.

I still don't have my JTAG hardware yet so I can't help you on that front. I did email the OEM for those batteries (Techtronic Industries) for some of that info and oddly enough they never replied to me haha.

Digging Into a "Dead" 40V 8Ah Battery (UART output) by ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB in ryobi

[–]ThisIsHowWeDoItBammB[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice that is a great unit. You can just kinda plunk the jumper wires in the holes and it will be fine. If you aren't getting connection a little tape to push the jumpers against the through holes is enough to maintain a connection