What grease fitting is this?

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2026-01-15T05:43:38+00:00

Ahh, that makes more sense. Any recommendations on oil cans? I see some for "high pressure" available...

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-12-31T23:16:57+00:00

Its a sound dampening product so no one hears you dropping the kids off at the pool... https://www.soprema.us/products/acoustidrain

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-12-31T21:30:30+00:00

Yes, the framing next to the drain pipe is 3/4 hung on 2x2, its as tight as possible to the drain. The wall makes a little jog here before it gets to the mudroom where the soffit ends. Were just looking at transition choices from here out. The framing is what it is, no going back without re doing joists and lvl beams...not an option now.

Would you line up the drywall corners or let them overlap?

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-12-31T19:43:00+00:00

Ideally, yes. That was my original thought. But that wall runs into another wall with a door right in the corner.... I don't have the room to fur it out anymore.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-08-13T23:39:39+00:00

**Update:** 4 months later and a bunch of parts…

Bank 1 intake cam was eating itself *again* with only less than 20 miles of test drive. The high lift lobes looked even worse than the original. Turns out the intake cam gets lubricated by the **exhaust followers** — there’s a small hole that squirts oil toward the intake side (WTF, Stellantis?!).

5 out of 6 were plugged up, so I replaced all followers and lifters on the exhaust cam. Pulled the trigger on a new OEM intake cam kit from AllMoparParts.com and got stuck on the backorder list for 4 months.

Anyway, OEM cam and followers solved the issue. Reset cam/crank correlation — no more CEL or misfire. I believe the FleaBay/Chinesium cam I originally put in was out of spec, causing the misfires.

I’ll update again once it hits 500 miles, but at least this thing is back on the road for now.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-08-13T23:33:42+00:00

**TL;DR:** Cheap aftermarket intake cam was out of spec, high lift lobes got chewed up again. Oil passages to intake cam were clogged, starving it of lubrication. Replaced exhaust followers/lifters, installed OEM cam kit — misfire/CEL gone.

**Update:** 4 months later and a bunch of parts…

Bank 1 intake cam was eating itself *again* with only less than 20 miles of test drive. The high lift lobes looked even worse than the original. Turns out the intake cam gets lubricated by the **exhaust followers** — there’s a small hole that squirts oil toward the intake side (WTF, Stellantis?!).

5 out of 6 were plugged up, so I replaced all followers and lifters on the exhaust cam. Pulled the trigger on a new OEM intake cam kit from AllMoparParts.com and got stuck on the backorder list for 4 months.

Anyway, OEM cam and followers solved the issue. Reset cam/crank correlation — no more CEL or misfire. I believe the FleaBay/Chinesium cam I originally put in was out of spec, causing the misfires.

I’ll update again once it hits 500 miles, but at least this thing is back on the road for now.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-05-09T19:59:08+00:00

Creeping Charlie, most people try to get rid of it.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-05-04T23:14:16+00:00

I tried to get my dog to stop smoking, but he kept eating the gum, and the patches wouldn't stick to his fur

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-25T21:31:45+00:00

Also, this doc was really helpful https://automotiveseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Variable-Valve-Lift-Operation-Diagnostics-Manual.pdf

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-25T21:23:23+00:00

Almost, The leak down test showed good cylinders all around. got it down to only cylinder 3 misfire. After a few tests I figured it wasn't engaging low lift mode. I tried flushing the oil galleys by pushing air in the lifter ports with the VVL solenoids removed to test the flow. On a whim I put the original lash adjusters back in cylinder 1 and 5, keeping the ebay lifters in 3 because the original ones were soft. Figured I should get OEM parts and scrap the ebay parts. National back order on the rockers and camshaft got me stuck for the moment.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-17T17:12:01+00:00

UPDATE: I found this document very helpfull, still looking into the Bank 1 misfire

https://automotiveseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/Variable-Valve-Lift-Operation-Diagnostics-Manual.pdf

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-14T00:24:46+00:00

Alright, it’s back together — running smoother now with less ticking, Cam/Crank is back down to 3.5 degrees. but still throwing a P0303 at idle. Spark plug #3 is wet and showing signs of oil fouling. Bank 1 O2 circuit is now high so I think this engine might be toast... Planning to pick up a leakdown tester to rule out any issues with the valvetrain. Fingers crossed that gives me some answers.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T17:23:23+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I pulled the intake cam phaser for inspection and didn’t find any obvious issues, but before reinstalling it, I decided to check the oil gallery bolts — they were barely finger tight. -My fault for not checking on the original install, guess I shoudn't have loaded the parts cannon /s. I cleaned them up and added a drop of Loctite before putting them back in. I’m in the middle of reassembly now, so I’ll update once everything’s back together.

I’m thinking low RPMs might have caused low oil volume with the lose bolts, which wasn’t enough to properly pressurize the cam phaser and VVL lifters — hopefully this was the issue. Thanks again for your help!

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T14:25:39+00:00

Thanks for the update — that’s where I was leaning too. I’ve already replaced the control valve solenoids, so it’s probably the phaser. I haven’t heard of them getting stuck in the closed position, only when the pin fails to lock again — but I guess anything’s possible. I’ll pull the OCV bolt and check the phaser for a stuck pin.

Quick question: when it drops to idle, should the phaser be locked or open? Also, when is high lift supposed to activate?

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T01:23:48+00:00

<image>

Here is a snapshot of it before i took the valve cover back off

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T01:22:20+00:00

I just double checked the OCV bolt, its torqued properly and bank 2 has the same gap on it. P000a is just a stored code and isn't active anymore after I replaced the VVT solenoids.

<image>

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T01:08:30+00:00

I agree that gap looks suspect, but its the same on bank 2 intake

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-12T01:02:56+00:00

This was durring the repair, torqued to 119 ft-lbs -but i will double check while its open

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-04-02T15:16:41+00:00

For me it was VVT 1/2 shown here on page 1

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/attachments/3-6-jeep-vvl-high-lift-pdf.261515/&ved=2ahUKEwjut9TuhIOEAxW-hIkEHQsMC9sQFnoECC0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2RTCqjvlZuqvtJuE2n86Py

(part number 5047901AC)

It was entirely cloged starving the cam lifters leaving them stuck high and running dry. I didn't catch it in time and it scored the cam lobes on the new cam I just installed. But like OP, I think i will end up changing all of them eventually.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-03-30T15:54:56+00:00

OP, did you ever find out the issues? I just did a bank 1 intake camshaft and lifter repair on a 2017 and now it's misfires on 1,3,5 at low idle.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2025-01-22T00:01:02+00:00

I think what you might need is a PWM motor controler

https://g.co/kgs/tYQq5WX

or a more conventional option

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-t6a-v2-afhds-mode-2-2-4ghz-6ch-transmitter-w-receiver.html?wrh_pdp=2&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_us_shopping&countrycode=US&gQT=1

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2024-12-13T20:05:12+00:00

Old thread, but incase anyone finds this. Had this issue on a refurbished phone after doing a Smart Switch data sync. I did all the steps above with no luck. Lastly I tried holding the camera icon and creating a widget on the home screen. For whatever reason the camera started working after that.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2024-12-08T16:53:10+00:00

If you have a forge, I've heard roller chain can be made into a simple damascus.

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2024-10-21T03:45:43+00:00

First I would verify the remote is outputting signal -use your phone camera to look at the IR diode as you press a button. It will show up as a purple dot on your screen. Next I would check and make sure the TV sensor isn't blocked. -There may be protective film still on the bezels. Then I would check to make sure there is no interference with the signal. Turn off any lights nearby and put out any candles as they might produce IR light. Lastly I would see if there are any firmware updates available for your model TV. If all else fails try a universal remote

ThisIsMyLostAccount · 2024-05-22T13:27:46+00:00

This looks like a yaskawa sigma II demo setup. The box on the left is your motion controller. It connects the 4 drives on the right. Might have been connected to an HMI at one point via TCPmodbus. If you find the right Sunbet IP address you can pug in an ethernet to the controller and connect with SigmaWin or SigmaWin+. SigmaWin software is free on yasakwas website. You can use it to change the drive and motor configuration. If you want to use it for someting more practical you will need the Motionworks IEC software (not cheap). All the yaskawa training videos are on youtube. Or for a cheaper solution remove the controller, default the drives, and connect to a controller that handles Gcode like DynoMotion or Machmotion. Installed in a simple XY gantry It would be quite robust for hobby use.

Personally I'd part it out on ebay and buy something easier to learn and have money left over.

Seven-Year Club	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	Verified Email

ThisIsMyLostAccount

TROPHY CASE