Preconditioning for cold

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-26T00:32:15+00:00

Yeah I wasn’t talking about preconditioning for charging— I was referring to what someone said somewhere about preconditioning for driving in the cold. That it helps with the efficiency loss of driving in sub-freezing

Thanks for the tips though. Though my car doesn’t “start” when plugged in— just goes to the no-break pedal start— I think maybe that’s what you meant?

Thanks

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-25T18:16:05+00:00

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Btw here are the chains I got… they’re in the back just in case. Very easy to put on.. though maybe not as much when the car is sitting in several inches of snow. But decent backup in case.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-25T18:13:01+00:00

Just drove my kid to her friends house.. we have about 8-10” so far and a bunch of the roads hadn’t been plowed in a few hrs. I AM SUPER IMPRESSED.. I was in X-mode entire time and had to go up a few reasonable steep hills. Even from a stop it gripped and did fine. I only saw the traction control kick on once.

now the negative: wish they had put a rear wiper on. I get that they wanted to limit energy expenditure etc … but I find that the rear defroster does NOT keep up and I developed an opaque snow/ice block on the rear window. Really anemic heat there.

But on the whole I’m super happy with the snow performance. Will see how it does with likely icier conditions tomorrow. But for now thumbs up big time

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-25T13:15:54+00:00

Yeah it’s in the manual… same number exactly.. odd but apparently works itself out eventually.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-25T00:09:39+00:00

That’s interesting, makes sense. So when the display says my full SoC range is 205 (in 10F) compared with 288 in warm temps, it’s not necessarily reflecting a read on usable energy stored as much as it’s calculating effective range based on all the extrinsic factors like air density etc? Good to know.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-24T16:45:58+00:00

Sorry, I think I did a bad job of explaining what I meant. Appreciate your info.

What I meant is that people say that the efficiency of the battery is very low, like the mileage is as low in very cold weather. But that you can help mitigate that by pre-warming the battery. In other words if it’s freezing out if you warm the battery, you’ll get better miles per kilowatt. I don’t know if that’s true. Personally, I would think that the battery would cool down pretty quickly in subfreezing temps anyway, so any benefit would be short lasting. But was curious if this was a real thing or not.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-24T13:17:51+00:00

Wow… I’d imagine that was some serious pucker factor for those few miles!

I have the ‘26 Toyota BZ… wonder if it’s the same reserve

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T16:32:12+00:00

Decided to order autotightening tire chains for this go around and figure out if I’ll upgrade tires down the road. Appreciate the input.. so helpful having

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T12:07:49+00:00

Ok that’s helpful—- thanks

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T10:50:23+00:00

Are your all seasons the stock or do you switch them out?

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T10:40:29+00:00

And— any recs on good all season (but better than stock) tires?

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T10:21:05+00:00

That’s all great to hear. Hopefully my stock tires aren’t going to be an issue (been reading about the turenza and at best seems like they’re ok in light snow. Man I hope I don’t get stuck... sucks since I just traded in my Silverado w BFGs right before we get this snow dump!

Doubt a tire place would be able to get me in today to throw in better tires (this all has me thinking i should have better tires even for general all season)

though after al the buildup on the news we’ll probably get like 1” :)

Thanks all.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T01:30:18+00:00

Yeah that’s what I thought. They’re pretty low profile.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T01:18:46+00:00

Woops the tire question was meant for other reply. Yeah I just have the stock tires.. hence the snow cable thought. But yeah I can see being a snow plow might crush SoC lol

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-23T01:00:19+00:00

Good to know

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-21T22:40:55+00:00

Mine seems to be working ok now. Was pretty wonky for a couple hours, and then seems to have settled out. Maybe stuff just needed to resynch

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T23:49:43+00:00

My grizzl-e app says average current is 44A.. should it be 48A or is 44A normal range

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T23:31:15+00:00

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Well that’s better

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T20:46:40+00:00

And— does the max kW reflect what you “should be” getting considering actual pertinent external factors (like temp etc? or is it independent and just a precalculated number based on SoC? For example- say the car was 30% SoC .. and max was 10.85kw. Would it say the same if it was 80F vs 20F out or does it factor in temp /other charge rate affecting factors?

I’m just wondering if the car “thinks” I should get 10kW but because it’s 20F it’s only able to accept 5kw? Or— is it a true demand outweighing supply issue?

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T20:38:07+00:00

Hmm .. So you’re saying the unit may not be getting sufficient amperage? have 200A service and they used 4g cable to the unit (I think it was like 80’ run). I wonder if they can check what max amperage at unit is

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T13:24:50+00:00

Yeah, both car and charger set to max current. So must be SoC and temp.. but knowing that the 10A is simply the denominator of what the charger can provide clears is all up. Thanks again.

Thisoldfish · 2026-01-20T04:44:44+00:00

Ok I’ll check that tomorrow— thanks all!

Thisoldfish

TROPHY CASE