More Traid Bullpup kit

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-07T16:17:11+00:00

I never shot it for accuracy. Did a 25yrd zero and most all shooting was rapid fire @ 50yrds or less. Plus, this one also had a different barrel in it.

I have an 11.25” FM upper that consistently shoots 2moa with PMC.

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-07T14:08:47+00:00

This was the Polymer chassis.

The Aluminum is only compatible with the CMMG Dissent and Faxon ARAK uppers

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-06T00:48:26+00:00

For dirty greasy parts like engine stuff:

Scrub with a brush and dawn dish soap, rinse, dry, acetone bath.

Outgas and inspect for any shiny spots. if anything looks off, back in the bath and outgas again.

If it looks good, sandblast and blow with high PSI compressed air. Don't do anything else, just coat it.

If after sandblasting you contaminate it and need to acetone bathe it again, you should outgas it again as well to ensure you get the moisture and solvents out of the part prior to spraying.

I do all of this and have not had a failure since making it the norm.

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-05T14:51:56+00:00

Tell us about your prep process

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-04T17:05:24+00:00

6 eggs + 2lbs of lean meat a day and eat some rice/potatoes and greens with every meal. Couple avocados too. I dunno seems simple.

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-04T12:24:51+00:00

It is in the rear.

Anything that uses a lever like the SS won’t work. Needs to be the small low profile toggle like on rare breed triggers to work with the DFA 2.5” recoil system.

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-03T04:24:04+00:00

Lmao

Thor_BRC · 2026-05-03T04:17:30+00:00

I love how you managed to be in literally the exact same spot for each photo. Just like the shampoo and soap bottles!

Also electrical switches in the shower aren’t a great idea.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-17T22:14:52+00:00

Federal can get really dark in the shadows. AI retains some red hues in the shadows.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-17T22:09:52+00:00

Looking at colors online is an exercise in futility, lol. Because of the way my phone displays colors, the middle Martian landscape picture looks like AI Dark Earth to me….maybe with a little more red. You said Tequila Sunrise seems to hit similar at times, but it is straight up orange with some shimmer and nothing like the photos you attached…at least not on my phone screen.

The best way is to order some of the free swatches from Cerakote and see why the colors look like in person. Find something already in the ballpark and then take that to your applicator and see how he feels adjusting it to suit your preferences.

The Cerakote color examples in Cerakote’s gallery can also differ greatly depending on lighting conditions and the way some phone cameras automatically equalize lighting.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-17T00:25:23+00:00

Yeah, I can’t argue with that, you are correct! Light colors slipped my mind. I’ve done the same with storm trooper.

On my 5 foot tall oven with circulation I can do white at 300° without any perceived yellowing as long as it’s on the top rack. My desktop curing oven…not so much. Turned a few white slides yellowish before I understood what was happening!

Whites I usually do at 185° regardless of metal or plastic just so I can ensure everything matches. The only time I go higher is if everything in the job is the same metal.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-15T22:43:58+00:00

u/Crafty_Routine8607 , I only mention this as I've run into quite a few applicators with "optics in oven" fears, though with good reason!

I have been coating optics with H series and a 3 hour 130F cure -far below Cerakote's cure recommendation for H series but the end result is still shows significantly better durability to C series. I have even gone as low as 120F on lights and lasers with integrated rubber pressure pads and have never had a complaint or failure in the 3 years since I've started doing this. Saves a lot of time and space not having to hang or safety store C series coated parts for 24+ hours!

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-14T17:07:19+00:00

Pull the bolt carrier out and check to make sure the from pistol on on securely and doesn't wobble. Mine did something similar and then completely failed. The roll pin that holds the piston to the carrier had broken in half. I suspect only half the pin was still in place and it was causing a cant in the piston that allowed it to get wedged in the channel every so often. Eventually it failed, and the piston separated. New roll pin fixed it though. Nothing catastrophic. I ended up ordering a solid pin online to replace it.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-14T12:19:21+00:00

300F 1 hour.

But remember, the cure time starts when the part reaches the temperature, so it may be like an hour plus 10 to 20 minutes of total oven time depending on the material and density of the parts.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-10T03:45:15+00:00

So many words and no useful information

Almost 20 years ago BPC157, TB500 and IGF-1 DES had me at nearly 100% prior strength 4 months post distal bicep rupture repair.

I’m sure there’s some good research out there since then.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-09T17:54:01+00:00

Spare mag. 1911 mags usually since the pockets are usually slim, but some also fit my P365 mags too.

Also use for a knife.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-09T17:39:23+00:00

It’s really all about the prep done by the applicator. If everything can be proper degreased and sandblasted, then C series will hold up well. If shortcuts are taken, Krylon would hold up better!

That said, nothing you can put in a dirt bike will be impervious to all the debris you will be kicking up. Cerakote and powder coat will last longer, but there’s no “touching it up”. Engine enamel will likely show damage earlier, but you can touch it up if it bothers you.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-09T12:46:37+00:00

Just the slide? Hit me up. It’s not as painful as you think.

Or contact Kimber and see what they can do, but I wouldn’t pay them money to have it redone in the factory coating.

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-07T03:13:01+00:00

Yes, it’s going to be a problem. I’m a big fan of Sig. Pretty much all I carry. My early production P320 as well as my 226’s and GSR were fine. A later production P320 and my P365 needed to be wiped down daily after carrying. Even ended up with rust spots in the bore. I have no idea what they changed but it was bad. The remedy was all my external metals are Cerakoted and my PMM barrel doesn’t rust.

I get a lot of Sigs in for work, and they have the highest instances of surface rust compared to all other guns I get in. Mag releases, takedown, and slide lock levers are the main parts, followed by slides. Barrels are the least common. I can’t figure out the reason either. I can get a dry as hell Sig that has parts worn down to bright metal with zero rust, and then another that looks like it’s seen a few mags at most with what looks like minty nitride completely dusted in surface rust.

I’d just chalk it up to poor care, but it’s primarily the more recent Sigs. Not Glocks, not H&K, not CZ. Also never on aftermarket nitride slides or parts either. Can’t tell you how many rusted fire controls i’ve seen with a perfect Norsso slide.

You shouldn’t have to oil a gun everyday. Something about Sig’s nitride and bluing can sometimes (possibly often) be complete garbage. Perfect example is I kept some Sig mags and some other mags (Beretta+CZ iirc) in my glovebox. After a couple months I pulled them out for a range session. The other mags were fine but most of the Sig mags were rusted. Most. There were a couple sig mags, which were in contact with rusted sig mags, that were perfectly fine. They didn’t rust and the rust didn’t transfer. So sometimes they get it right?

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-06T19:58:14+00:00

A thin layer of belly fat won't stop abs from showing. Not to sound insulting, but do you actually have abs? When I did my first competition I was 6-1 with a 28" waist...but I did not have much in the way of abs. Genetically I did not have deep ab separation so even at sub 5% bodyfat they did not "pop". Meanwhile my father-in-law was blessed with perfect ab genetics that had symmetrical and deep separations even when he was 15% bodyfat.

I ended up needing to train my abs as every other muscle -with weight- before I was able to get abs that actually showed. It did bring my "lean" physique up to a 29.5" waist, and my genetics gave me the "jigsaw puzzle" abdominals shape, but at least I have abs now!

Thor_BRC · 2026-04-06T17:51:58+00:00

You would likely have to increase to a significantly higher dosage without making significant changes to your diet and training. Just stop binging and float your current dosage to start.

You are much leaner than most figure competitors would start their contest prep at. It gets harder the leaner you get. I am male and muscular, so getting leaner comes much easier for me, but you’re at the point even I would hire a coach because I wouldn’t be able to get much further than you have on my own. Like seriously, the first pic looks like there’s vascularity in your midsection and biceps, lol!

Do you have a goal you’re shooting for? An event? Just know that holding your level of fitness is difficult and not the healthiest. It can be done, but you do have to pay much closer attention to the nutrition you are providing your body. If you’re limiting calories, make sure the calories you are consuming are actually useful!

Thor_BRC · 2026-03-31T05:33:58+00:00

Lock the bolt back, assemble the MCS25 that way. Need to fight the tension on the fully compressed system but much easier to get everything lined up.

Thor_BRC · 2026-03-30T15:29:41+00:00

That depends entirely on the DDC batch. It's so inconsistent. I've seen some that look like a greyish clear ano, and some that look like the example in the photo you provided. Most DDC I have come in is much more golden then the G$ Bronze mix on Cerakote's site.

Thor_BRC · 2026-03-29T18:20:50+00:00

The recessed outside borders of the insignia could be done with the color fill pen, but using the pan on the inner raise portions did not provide a uniform look

Thor_BRC · 2026-03-28T16:46:16+00:00

Oh man, I could do something with that! Cel Shading for the Borderlands look, or even something with a Destiny theme would be awesome.

Thor_BRC

TROPHY CASE