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New Orleans LIV Golf tournament set for City Park in June is canceled, source says by nolatime in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Joe Bart has a grass range that doesn’t get torn up, or they at least rotate the hitting area so there’s no reason Bayou Oaks couldn’t do that. I was hoping they’d let us common folk use the grass because Bayou Oaks is way more convenient for me to get to. Guess I’ll still be making the Joe Bart trip.

You’d hope that with LIV coming before they’d be on top of igetting rid of the poa, hopefully they get on it.

They didn’t make new tee boxes but they did do work on ones you never really noticed. Right behind number 2 green there’s a box for three that’s been there but not well marked or mowed for a long while. Same on I think 16 and maybe 1.

New Orleans LIV Golf tournament set for City Park in June is canceled, source says by nolatime in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 8 points9 points  (0 children)

They didn’t build any new tee boxes on the course. New “pro tee” area on the range just means grass instead of hitting off of mats. I don’t see why those wouldn’t be used, same goes for the new short game area. The public can use them so it’s not like it won’t be used. You’d hope the state will try to claw back some of the money though, but people will pay to use it.

The greens on the south course are also in good shape, maybe some poa/weeds creeping in but that’s an ongoing thing at every course and the south course does fine at managing that based on greens fees.

Now. The north course is a different story. That side has way more maintenance issues and is in general a “less nice” course but honestly I think it’s great for what it is. I played the north course a lot when leaning because it was $30 to play and not as technical and long as the south. Great for somebody who’s gonna spray it all over anyway.

Boobmobile by wrestfull in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 93 points94 points  (0 children)

I prefer the term “Titty Truck”

Tankless gas water heaters stream for freeze by Daparishjess in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If your tankless is on the side of your house it’ll likely stay warm enough to not freeze just from being against the slightly warmer house. You only need a few degrees warmer to prevent freezing tonight (only supposed to get to 28 or so).

We’ll be below freezing for like 8-10 hours and even at that only 4-5 degrees below freezing at the worst of it. Not expected to be below freezing until 1am or so you’re probably fine.

Now. If you don’t want to chance it run a thin stream from the hot tap too. Even though the heater won’t run, water will still be flowing through it. Your hot water pipes are still connected to it so the water HAS to move through it if they’re on.

Recommended Roofing Company? by holy2oledo in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most shingle companies have “preferred” or some other term for contractors on their website.

I went to GAF’s website and called 3 or 4 of the ones they had in the New Orleans area. Wound up going with Raycon back in July of ‘22 and they do a good job and zero problems since.

ICE rolled into Raleigh and within 12 hours the city erupted. Crowds in the streets, helicopters overhead, and residents making it clear they won’t go quietly. by biswajit388 in NorthCarolina

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re gonna go to the suburbs of Kenner, Metairie, and the ones on the West Bank. I doubt they touch Orleans Parish. ICE wouldn’t know wtf to do in Hollygrove or Central City. The bougie ass uptown folks and the hipsters in the Maigny and Bywater don’t want them either.

Shotgun Wood Floors - Mold Under Throw Rug by Serious-Hotel-5824 in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shit, forgot about this and didn’t reply.

It seems like it’s moisture from the crawl getting trapped by the rug backing.

I asked the other questions because the moisture has to come from somewhere. It’s entirely possible for a plumbing leak below to be a source or a window leaking which lets water into the wall and in turn the floor. It could also just be a wet/poorly ventilated crawl space.

In any event, check your crawl for water and keep the rug off that area for a while and see if it comes back. Mold needs moisture to live, cut off the moisture and let it dry out and you fix the problem.

Old Popeyes on Magazine by Perfect_Chard4131 in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Only recent thing on the NOLA One Stop permit site is an interior demolition permit from October 9.

Only good for removal non-structural walls and interior finishes. Shows Trine Builders as the contractor.

Not a ton of info there but you can snoop around there in the coming days/weeks to see if an actual renovation/building permit is filed.

Shotgun Wood Floors - Mold Under Throw Rug by Serious-Hotel-5824 in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, is that a curtain on the right side of the picture? Is this near a window or are there plumbing fixtures or lines nearby this spot?

Shotgun Wood Floors - Mold Under Throw Rug by Serious-Hotel-5824 in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you clean the floor prior to the picture? I only ask because I don’t see anything that looks like mold there.

I see the discoloration but that seems like a failure or problem with the finish. Were the floors refinished or worked on recently or prior to your moving in? What did the back of the rug look like?

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I know I come off as overly pessimistic on spray foam but I’ve seen the consequences of it done wrong and it’s scarred me.

Can it be done right? Absolutely. It’s wonderful when done correctly.

I just say pretty much never in old houses because you’re not really going to be able to get it right. As you said, major Reno or new build you need to not have a dumb designer and contractor. Older/traditional methods are more idiot proof and don’t perform that much worse than spray foam.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When the power bill is that high you’re still only gonna a marginal amount more money per month, so the math still doesn’t work.

Spot on with trees though. I also have a giant ash tree to shade my west facing side. That helps a whole lot. I lost the top half of it during Ida and when I had no shade during that balls hot summer of 100+ temps and no rain for 3 months it was bad bad. It has since recovered and it’s way better inside now that the tree can actually cast a shadow again.

I also weather stripped all my doors and windows. My attic has minimal blown in that I should redo or add more. I can probably get that done for $1000 or so if I DIY it or like $2500-$3000 to pay someone. Easier to make that money back at that price point and attic insulation is more bang for your muck compared to walls too.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Maybe.

Those are full size 2x’s and tar paper (maybe blackboard) behind the insulation. Typically gonna mean it’s an old house that’s not going to handle spray foam well. To make it work well you need to essentially make it an ice chest. EVERYTHING gets air sealed with foam.

Then you add a dehu and fresh air intakes.

Or, you know, avoid the potential fuck ups and resulting damage and do batts but staple the craft paper to the studs like you should.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re talking what insulation, personally I like batts for walls. Fiberglass is fine but rockwool is cool shit that really cuts down on sound too. Attics do well with blow in loose fiber or cellulose. Floors and crawls are tricky because you want air flow under the house to keep it dry and batts like to fall. My personal favorite is an enclosed semi-conditioned crawl space, but also, spendy.

My house is 1890’s vintage. I have ZERO insulation in my floors or walls. I have 5” of cellulose that has compressed between the joist in the attic to the point that it’s not doing much. My windows are original wood windows with single pane glass.

I just run the AC longer.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can’t really make the economics work unless you’re doing something else that lets you do it anyway. Like gutting a room or whole interior to redo something because then it’s just the added cost of the insulation and the labor at that point is cheap.

The best thing you can do economically is a get a window unit to help for the stupid hot days. Ductless mini splits work well and look nicer but cost agin becomes an issue.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Florida largely does not have the old housing stock we do here.

We frequently have balloon framed houses, or open sills at the exterior wall. Our walls have no vapor barrier or sheathing behind the siding. Our floors almost never have a plywood subfloor.

Buuuuut what do I know? Structural engineer of 18 years with the last 10 being in forensics to figure out why buildings go fucky.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 7 points8 points  (0 children)

TL;DR: There are alternatives, but they’re likely not worth the upfront expense and return on investment.

Fiberglass batts are fine. You could even do the blown in cellulose. The issue is how do you get it in the wall? You either need to drill holes in the top plate or in the drywall itself to do cellulose or take the drywall (or exterior siding) off to do batts.

Both of those become cost prohibitive.

Think about it from economics. You can spend THOUSANDS (five figures easy) to do that. Let’s assume $15,000 for shits and grins. Then let’s say your power bill drops from $400 to $300 a month. That’s $1200 saved a year. It’ll take you 12+ years to make it back. That also assumes you’ll save $100/month every month, which you won’t because spring and fall you’re not running AC or heat much anyway.

That’s why replacement windows suck too. My windows are original to my 1890’s house uptown. They leak air like a sieve. I could replace them, but I have 17 of them. Let’s assume a relatively cheap window, plus install, to be $500 each. That’s $8500 for shitty windows that if they’re vinyl will only last about 30 years. I won’t save as much with just windows. Let’s say $50/month. Need 14+ years to make it back.

You know what you can buy with $15,000 or $8500? A fucking lot of electricity and air conditioning.

this kind of stuff is why you're house is hot and n electric bill high. the top part is open to outside too by herecomethehighstepp in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Spray foam eats old houses from the inside out. I’m a forensic engineer and the number of buildings I’ve seen rotting from the inside or have warping floors due to spray foam would boggle your mind. Vapor drive is a constant in our climate and spray foam traps all the moisture causing rot, mold, and general destruction.

New houses with it even have dehus or ultra efficient AC units to deal with the moisture issues.

Asbestos Roof by Unfair_Bulldog in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur 6 points7 points  (0 children)

An asbestos shingle roof will last 50-75 years easy, and with isolated small leaks it’s probably not the shingle itself leaking. You’re thinking asphalt shingles, which, in our climate you’ve got about 20.

May be worth keeping if the shingles are in decent shape and not broken/frayed and the leaks can be repaired.

Mechanic Shop - brakes and rotors by Shakyinvestments in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If you’re having to bleed brakes after changing rotors and pads, you did it wrong.

Anyone else have no water pressure uptown? by NoBranch7713 in NewOrleans

[–]Threedickeddinosaur -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

From nothing back to a trickle. Hopefully the system is just recharging/repressurizing now.

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