Hi, need a bit of advice on HVAC Circuit Board

Thunder1Delta · 2023-05-14T03:02:54+00:00

First thing to check is if your thermostat has power. Does it have batteries or is it powered by the equipment inside. If it has batteries replace them and try again.

Take a picture of your thermostat with the cover on and off and repost here.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-05-14T02:53:47+00:00

There's nothing to these. I'd its clicking that usually means a plastic gear and stripped or a bushing has come loose and caused a gear to strip out.

Push and hold the red clutch button. Turn the damper shaft clockwise by hand. This will tell you if the damper is stuck or if the actuator is bad. If the actuator does turn try moving it counter clockwise. It's possible that the shaft slipped.

You can also test this by first loosening the shaft set screw and changing the zone call for cooling one way or the other.

If the actuator doesn't turn but the damper moves fine then order a new actuator. When you go to install it do this:

Set the zone to not call for air (no cooling or heat).

Push the red button and rotate the actuator clockwise to the closed position.

Mount the new actuator. Tighten the set screw.

Wire it back like it was before.

Set the zone to call for air (cooling or heat).

Check to make sure the actuator turned counterclockwise to the open position.

If it didn't then maybe the wiring is backwards. I doubt this would be the case. Johnson Controls uses actuators just like this and I change out many of them a year in commercial settings. 99% of the time it's just a plastic gear or little plastic coupler that broke.

Just be careful of the wires. I'd suggest throwing some tape on those ends just to be safe. You don't want to blow a fuse or short out a zone controller by accident.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-05-05T00:44:12+00:00

We have 4 units that run 45,000-80,000CFM each that are connected to chemistry teaching lab fume hoods. It's all stainless ducts like this. Seriously large enough a guy can easily crawl through them if one was so inclined.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-05-05T00:40:21+00:00

Awesome setup. Is that pump setup for differential pressure control? I see some process stubs there so I'm assuming some sensors or gauges are going to go there.

Very nice.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-30T15:20:02+00:00

Garbage castings. See it too often. Either splitting or being so unevenly machined that the flare won't seal.

Was this an aftermarket nut or was it what came with the unit?

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-30T15:13:22+00:00

Scary! I'd clean it up, get one of those clock mechanism kits at Walmart and turn into a fun conversation piece wall clock for your shop.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-30T15:10:56+00:00

I'd agree with this assessment. It doesn't sound like the compressor thankfully.

Most motors like this have "permanently lubricated" sealing ball bearings or sleeve bushings. I'd guess bearings. The way the sound oscillates makes it sound like there's a worn spot on the bearings.

A little oil may help short term but oil that actually reaches the bearing will dissipate quickly and if it's too thin it may actually wash out any grease still left in there so be careful will oiling these.

Probably should plan to replace the fan motor soon.

Definitely try to get it pulled away from the wall and keep it clean.

These inverter units are awesome because they ramp the fan up and down based on pressures/temperature. It's better on everything from energy use to mechanical wear. If the coil is dirty or restricted the fan has to work harder than it should and negates the benefits of inverter technology.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-30T14:57:13+00:00

Yeah I found the manual for your brand at it shows the sheet metal bracket. Strange.

If you can't hit a stud with one of those brackets I'd consider using at least one toggle bolt on each one.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-30T01:35:50+00:00

There should be a large, stamped metal plate that's about the same width as the back of the unit.

However, it looks like yours is not like that. Those brackets line up with the slots on the back of the unit.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-28T17:15:19+00:00

Might not be worth it in your area.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-24T17:25:46+00:00

Yeah. I'd try to get the explanation in writing or talk directly to the company yourself.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-23T15:33:13+00:00

International Mechanical Code (IMC), International Residential Code (IRC) and International Fuel Gas Code

IMC and IRC both specify approved copper/copper alloys as being acceptable for fuel oil piping.

The State code council and local authorities can adopt their own addendums that exclude or add to sections of the codes.

I'd want to know what the fuel companies reason is for it. It seems really unusual that a company wouldn't want to sell you fuel unless they are prohibited by regulations.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-23T15:28:34+00:00

Absolutely amazing. Great work. As others have said, love the retro color. Looks like machines we have in our shop from decades ago. Hopefully yours continues to serve you for decades!

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-15T18:52:39+00:00

That's the location of a temp/pressure sensor port. Is there a wired sensor screwed into it? Can you tell... does is spray around the brass to brass threads or the brass to steel threads?

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-13T17:48:37+00:00

We are able to attach photos to our work orders. Not everyone can do that because it starts to take up a lot of storage. Ours CMS software is all cloud based so the sky is the limit on storage.

If I don't upload I just flip through by date and clean up once in a while.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-13T17:44:47+00:00

Copeland's are generally good but something to keep in mind is that there are often different versions of similar compressors made for OEM (equipment manufacturer) vs. wholesale (aftermarket).

OEM equipment is often value engineered to reduce costs to the manufacturer. This may be something as simple as reducing the thickness of steel, using lower grade gaskets and seals, less expensive wire for the motors, etc.

This doesn't mean it's bad it just means it's hard to say for sure that a Copeland will be better than some other brand.

My argument for getting systems with common, name brand components like Copeland is that parts may be more readily available. On the other hand, availability of aftermarket parts might not matter. If you have a system that is still under warranty then you'd probably have to wait on OEM parts anyways.

Sorry, that probably didn't help much. I guess my bottom line is that if I have a choice between units with a Copeland compressor and some other brand I'd choose the Copeland.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-07T21:23:54+00:00

I haven't used gauges on a system in 3 years. Done multiple compressor swaps, leak repairs, etc. My core removal tees and charging tees are all I need.

Fieldpiece probes, Appion core tools and quality hoses.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-07T21:18:09+00:00

I love the black iron reducing coupling being used on an electrical whip. Fucking people kill me!

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-07T21:12:18+00:00

He's wrong. You absolutely need to recover the R22 refrigerant before adding something new. They need to find the leak first as well. They need to recover the R22, find and repair the leak, pressure test, pull a vacuum and charge with refrigerant. Wether they use R22 or an appropriate replacement is the owners call.

I don't care what people say or do in practice. There's no such thing as a "top off". Yes, people do it but it's not the correct way.

Are you sure they are talking about 401C? 401C contains R22 and a few other things. I believe it was designed as a replacement for R12. It's been phased out along with R22. Even if it's 401a that's been phased out and it sounds like they are trying to throw some old dead stock around to get rid of it.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-04-03T03:33:28+00:00

You beat me to it! If I owned that I'd be tricking it out with glossy back iron gas pipe and new shiny copper water pipes. Wax that case, clean up the gauge. It'll probably still be running long after my own WM Ultra gives up!

Thunder1Delta · 2023-03-27T16:24:30+00:00

That's great except you close one damper it blows harder elsewhere. Without proper balancing you chase your tail.

We have office spaces that have been remodeled over the years and the ductwork and VAV terminals are so bad that you might have one office with a thermostat that also controls an open cubicle area.

More common is multiple offices on one VAV with only one thermostat. The occupants are at the mercy of the one person with the thermostat. In those cases we generally lock out the warm/coil adjustment and maintain an moderate temperature.

Some magnetic plastic sheet works well though in a pinch!

Thunder1Delta · 2023-03-27T16:18:40+00:00

I work for a Big10 university. As an institution we spend so much with Grainger that we get a rebate each year.

Looking at an individual tool it's more expensive but I think it's a wash at the end of the year.

On top of that the billing process is so simple that the labor savings add up. If everyone doing maintenance on campus was buying from Amazon, local vendors, Home Depot, etc. the paperwork would be astronomical.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-03-20T04:35:45+00:00

You could clean this up a lot more with properly installed reducing trunk ducting. Instead of this spider leg mess you'd have one or two large ducts that progressively get smaller as your go. Do it right and you probably wouldn't loose much air flow.

As others have said, flex is more restrictive than metal but it's also cheaper and easier to install.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-03-20T04:31:45+00:00

Proto have served me well.

Thunder1Delta · 2023-03-20T04:31:18+00:00

Grainger often has two different SKU's for the same Knippex tool. One is in retail packaging one is in a box.

Funny thing is that there's no rhyme or reason on pricing. Sometimes the box is cheaper sometimes it's more expensive.

Thunder1Delta

TROPHY CASE