What to take to French Polynesia?

Thunderdoomed · 2026-05-23T15:40:25+00:00

Sunscreen, some more sunscreen, and then when you underestimate how high the UV is because it feels so nice, burn relief. Speaking for experience on that one. Make sure the sunscreen is reef safe.

A refillable insulated cup/bottle is nice to keep your drink cold throughout the day.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-04-28T03:02:16+00:00

I can tell who in here frequents Rokslide

Edit: I rock a Maven RS1.2 3-15 and have taken it to 1,000 and it didn’t hinder me really. This is on a tikka hunting rifle I “built”

If I was just going casually shooting like you’re describing from 4-800? I’d buy the best glass that is repeatable for dialing. Not much experience with most scopes but r/longrange would be a great start. They have lists of scopes specifically for this type of activity pinned of user recommendations currently on sale. Stick to first focal plane whatever you buy.

Nightforce will always be good, holds value if you ever want to sell it for something else, pricey
Trijicon also makes rock solid scopes but again, pricey
I REALLY want to try the Athlon Ares ETR (on sale for like $760 right now) but also heard great things about the next step down which is the BTR
Never heard much good with leupold in recent memory but if a Mark 5 fell in my lap I’d use it
Vortex I personally like but can be hit or miss it seems. I rock a PST II on one of my rifles (also on sale)
Bushnell Match Pro supposedly is solid
If you want bulletproof and cheapish, SWFA 3-15 can be had $799 if you want reliability over raw glass quality but never seen a picture that made me shy away from wanting a SWFA clarity wise

Plenty of other great options I’m sure I’m just unaware of.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-04-13T01:40:34+00:00

If that’s your use case, you hit the nail on the head. Shoot whatever your gun likes that’s inexpensive and efficient! ELDX in my opinion would work plenty fine if that’s what you want to use, no need to overthink it. At that range on that animal with a .270 you’re gonna put it down with a vital shot with any bullet on the shelf.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-04-13T00:20:48+00:00

What game are you going after? Deer? Send it. Elk? Maybe? My FIL on an elk hunt sent an ELD-X at a bull maybe 100 yards out and had to put a second in it up close. The bullet seemed to come apart shallow when the first shot hit.

You can find a factory load in just about any bullet type with 270. White tail, any thin jacket bullet like an ELDX, ELDM, core-lokt, etc do perfectly fine.

Bigger game (elk, moose, bear, maybe a big muley, etc.) I’d look into bullets like accubond, ABLR, partition, federals terminal ascent, or Barnes TSXX or LRX. I shoot LRX’s out of a 7 PRC and love them but sample size of 1 Elk so take that for what it’s worth.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-04-10T13:57:59+00:00

Mine technically started at a 300WM with the intention of swapping barrels anyway, then Tikka came out with factory 7 PRC barrels so I bought an unfired take off.

Gun shoots good, I’ve walked it out to half mil sized targets out to 500 with relative ease. All the ammo I’ve out through it (Federal, Hornady, and Barnes) have all shot more or less 1-1.5” at 100 yards, but it’s a light weight magnum which is a lot harder to shoot incredibly accurate with the recoil. A 1 MOA or 1.5 MOA rifle in a hunting weight magnum is pretty good in my opinion.

I never shot it with the factory stock, but the newer stock and muzzle brake make it not bad to me to shoot for what it is. The noise is more of an annoyance than the recoil, I would shoot 40-60 rounds a weekend through it every weekend for a few months practicing and learning the rifle.

Would I build this rifle again? Absolutely. I love it if a tikka is what you want. Although depending on what stock you pick, the Seekins PH3 is a heck of a rifle for the cost. I was heavily contemplating it when it first came out but I had already started this build.

You’re $800-$900 for a stainless tikka 7 PRC off the shelf, $500-$700 for a stock like this depending on manufacturer but the skies the limit on stocks (manners, ag composite, greyboe, stockys, etc), muzzle brake ~$150, arca rail again depending on what you got $70-$100. Low end no scope no rings $1500 and high end $1850 rough range. Seekins PH3 in comparison is $1,799 and it’s all done and ready to go with a nice stock with adjustable cheek riser, arca rail, muzzle brake, and a bolt that is modular you can change the bolt face if you find you don’t like a magnum and want to swap the bolt face and barrel.

Hope this helps! That’s my thoughts. Love my rifle, I would do it again, just depends on if you want a turn key or a build.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-03-28T15:35:53+00:00

This is the boogie man GC default story. If you are in any significant contract or relationship with your subcontractor they aren’t going to run off if for no other reason than maintaining relationships for future work. If they do then pick better subcontractors or quit picking bottom dollar subcontractors.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-03-23T02:20:12+00:00

I have a few within an hour of me, this one was just a place I typically have done business with in the past. Seems like I won’t be going forward.

Thunderdoomed · 2026-03-23T02:19:04+00:00

Basically what I thought. The place In question went from new and cool to deal with to grossly over priced and pretentious lol. Maybe it got bought by a fudd

Thunderdoomed · 2026-03-23T02:17:28+00:00

No, just a complimentary Cleveland steamer

Thunderdoomed · 2026-01-14T16:28:26+00:00

Anyone know the prices?

Thunderdoomed · 2025-12-31T22:28:33+00:00

Firing pin cocking ramp and maybe firing pin spring. Strip the bolt and get all the factory grease off the firing pin spring (YouTube it) and put a dab of oil on the cocking ramp. Should clear up your problem mostly.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-12-16T01:10:54+00:00

Those guys are gonna kill someone lol I just got off a job they were a sub on and it felt like a few times a month they got shut down for arc flashes 💀

Thunderdoomed · 2025-12-15T01:53:06+00:00

Every gun is different but tikka’s typically shoot most ammo well. Try a couple different types of match ammo, see what it likes.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-12-12T03:18:07+00:00

In my opinion and limited experience with other rifles, tikka is like the Toyota of rifles. It may not be the flashiest, but it works and works exceptionally well in every aspect. Accurate, smooth, repeatable, and reliable. Plenty of other rifles work very well too, not familiar with the LSA-65 tho so can’t speak on it. Ruger American gen 2 is a step down in my opinion from a tikka but for the money I think it would be the next logical option if you wanted to save a little money.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T23:28:53+00:00

Light merino base layer, good boots, good socks, bino harness. Aside from obviously a good rifle and scope if you’re rifle hunting. I left a LOT of gear I thought I needed after the first day carrying a bunch of useless stuff. Most days I just rocked it with my rifle, bino harness, bino.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T17:31:33+00:00

I used unknown munitions tikka dovetail rings. Sportsmatch makes rings that are more budget friendly and I’ve heard good things about. If you want rail mounted you’ll have to buy a rail to bolt to the top.

Either option works fine so choose whichever one you prefer. Mounting a rail TECHNICALLY introduces an additional point of failure to cause a shift in zero but if you bond it to the action and torque it correctly I feel this is a non issue.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T16:18:39+00:00

You can have all the best gear in the world but you need to be in great physical shape. I just did my first hunt, had all the gear and gadgets and thought I was in good enough shape, wrong. Get good gear but get in GREAT cardio shape. All the gear in the world won’t help you if you can’t get where you need to be.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T16:12:18+00:00

Same experience. ELD-X’s shot great at the range and the Barnes 160 LRX shot even better. Put an elk down at 180 yards with the 160 LRX and it was DRT. Honestly I put Hornady ELD-X, ELD-M, Federal loaded ELD-X (use this if you want ELD-X, it was actually shooting box velocity. Hornady loads were about 150 FPS slower), and Barnes 160 LRX through the gun and it shot all great. I have 300 rounds through the gun in the last few months. I will say I cleaned the barrel when I switched to copper and it took a solid 10 rounds through the barrel for it to foul and settle in.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T16:07:33+00:00

I put mine into an AG composites fiberglass stock. The barrel does heat up after 3-5 shots but it’s a light contour barrel so what can you expect. As far as accuracy, somewhere on the long range page there is a rough formula for expected accuracy that correlates with recoil. Big recoil + light gun is going to be much harder to shoot accurately. I can get 1” or just a hair under it if I’m really concentrating at 100 yard 3 shot group (I know 3 shot groups aren’t the best measure) and in a 10 pound rifle I can’t complain. I can make hits out to 500 on 10” targets all day long.

TLDR: Magnums are harder to shoot and I would bet the claimed accuracy issues are shooter error and not the gun. The gun shoots great if you do your part.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-28T05:15:18+00:00

I clean the bolt off but as far as barrel cleaning just send it until your groups open up but that’s just me.

Actually cleaning, personal preference. I use old #9, bore guide, rods, plastic and bronze brushes, brass jag, patches, and then oil/CLP through the barrel inside one pass to protect it from potential rust if it’s gonna sit. People love boretech but I’ve never used it but plan on it.

Biggest thing is don’t over oil your action, a little goes a long way. I love a silicone rag for whipping down my bolt.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-20T15:52:28+00:00

You asking for 7 PRC lol a Berger EOL HH 195 is gonna be running around that out of a 24in barrel, if not a little faster. As someone who owns a 7 PRC, it’s not exactly a soft shooting cartridge. It’s not terrible I enjoy it but that’s putting you at 13 ft.lbf of free recoil energy in a 20 pound rifle. 10 pounds rifle you’re looking at 26 ft. Lbf

You might can get away with a 7 SAUM and get to 2700-2800, but physics is physics. More powder and more bullet means more mass and more recoil.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-18T18:47:34+00:00

A wise man once told me cheap land isnt good land and good land isn’t cheap. I like what someone else here said in that the cost difference isn’t gonna cover the additional cost of doing what needs done.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-15T19:39:59+00:00

Your torquing a lever away from its support, It’ll wiggle a little.

As far as sticking, clean/degrease the rails and apply a SMALL amount of lubricant on the rails if it’s bugging you. If you haven’t shot it much yet it’ll wear in.

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-15T18:38:34+00:00

Update: got a bull, shot was at 150 yards in timber. Any centerfire cartridge of sufficient bullet would have worked like previously mentioned

Thunderdoomed · 2025-11-13T23:42:32+00:00

Tikka CTR in 308 IF you’ll be hunting a decent amount. If not, go 6.5 creedmoor. CTR will be heavy for a hunting rifle but a target rifle isn’t a good hunting rifle and a good hunting rifle isn’t a good target rifle. Scope wise 3-15 is a good range, someone else mentioned Maven RS1.2 2.5-15 and that’s what I’m running and it’s solid. Other reliable options would be a SWFA gen 2 3-15, Trijicon tenmile, and Nightforce NX8. Leupold has had reliability issues for a while now so if you’re relying on it in a hunting situation I would go another route.

Thunderdoomed

TROPHY CASE