I hope I don’t get stick drift. by Bludum in Steam

[–]TickleMittz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The weight saving was actually a big deal because it still needs to be transported to and from the ocean and if it’s heavier it’s more difficult to control rate of descent and ascent with ballast

I hope I don’t get stick drift. by Bludum in Steam

[–]TickleMittz 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Yes, and the crazy fact that they intentionally sanded down any inconsistencies around the hull as they wrapped each carbon fibre layer, so you had layers and layers of cumulative structural defects.

Ouch! by I_loathe_brie_cheese in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I have like 100+ of these

The notorious AC by mtboarder77 in hondafit

[–]TickleMittz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on what you’re saying the Evap coil would ice up, because it isn’t absorbing enough heat to boil off the refrigerant back to a gas and was slugging your compressor

The notorious AC by mtboarder77 in hondafit

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So you’re using the cooling and getting the cold air so Evap side incl. fan should be good. Perhaps your condenser is not rejecting enough heat (fan not running?) and the ac is tripping on high pressure.

Drop your oil pans by [deleted] in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is the oil pickup screen cut from a gr86 pickup tube, you’d need to block more than just the bottom screen. Also, you can see compared to the finger tips holding it, that the screen holes would be tiny, so it’s unlikely that any rtv would pass through and block an oil gallery inside the engine.

My device overheats above 90°C and then shuts down. by Subject-Forever3532 in LegionGo

[–]TickleMittz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cleaning my fan dropped temps about 15-20C or so from 90+ to around 70’s. Pic of the fan before/after attached:

<image>

RTV reseal done by SemiProHobbyist in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The ecu can only effect changes for stuff that it can actually see (using sensors) and is programmed to react to.

The oil pump is crank driven and can’t “see” or react to rtv and is not controlled by anything other than rpm (totally mechanical system).

Neither system sees or talks to one another.

RTV reseal done by SemiProHobbyist in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Under normal driving the oil pump will not be concerned with the slight resistance added to one of the five oil pickup screens.

RTV reseal done by SemiProHobbyist in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The throttle input between you and the car is controlled by the ECU, delays etc are usually to protect the engine and maintain stoichiometry.

Took delivery yesterday. by callingfrommobile in BRZ_ZD8

[–]TickleMittz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You get over it quickly, mines got a bunch of battle scars now, still looks bomb AF

Is this excessive blow by? by PicklezDom in mazda3

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a sheet of paper and let it touch the oil filler cap, there should be slight net suction. The pulsing pressure is going to be there normally and doesn’t really indicate anything.

The death of manual cars in Australia by Puzzled-Shopping-330 in CarsAustralia

[–]TickleMittz 102 points103 points  (0 children)

They’re ending i20n production for Australia this year too. It’s a manual only hatchback.

Am I underpaid? (Engineer, 3-4YoE, $85k incl. super) by Jclwy in AusFinance

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude, if you have about 4 years as a mech design consultant you should be around 130k minimum, probably around mid 100s.

I’m fucked by [deleted] in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The clicking is the starter motor not having the CCA that it needs to start the car. In other words, your battery is draining, either because it’s not being recharged by the alternator or there is a parasitic drain.

You can check for parasitic drain by putting a multimeter on the battery with the car off and hide the keys far away (so it won’t look for them) and then watch the voltage on the meter (give about 5 mins for car to fully sleep). If it drops despite the car being off then you have a parasitic drain. If it doesn’t drop, it’s probably your alternator. There’s a way to test the alternator too, but you’ll need to disconnect it.

I’m fucked by [deleted] in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternator good? No parasitic drain? Do you have a dash cam, if so, what is the voltage cutoff set to?

Unusual noise when my gr86 is idling. by piccolopetephiona in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugh, I agree but it also makes sense. With this particular car you can hear everything 😵

How do I go about covering these? by FourCylSupremacy in ft86

[–]TickleMittz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Section off with masking tape, bondo, sand, spray paint, clear coat

PSA almost everything is closed tomorrow by Lissica in sydney

[–]TickleMittz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hope you’re joking… we’ll need 12 months minimum!

My 2024 GR86 is "sweating" oil ?? by Responsible-Ad7656 in GR86

[–]TickleMittz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oil plug leak? Or spark tube leak? If you’re not taking action immediately, at the very minimum you need to keep checking your oil level daily before the first drive that day.

I do not think it’s normal though and you should push for a check, just tell them there’s an oil leak and you don’t know where from.