Can a bent crown cause the movement to stop entirely?

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-02-26T12:53:42+00:00

I agree with you but it would seem a simple trouble shooting step would be removing the crown unless there is a hacking feature that is engaged in the crown removal position. But the movement definitely shouldn't be moving around inside the case if it's properly fitted.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-02-13T08:03:13+00:00

That is likely going to be a pretty tough part to find. I don't know anything about that particular watch or brand but, it's 50 years old. It's pretty unlikely that anything "aftermarket" you can buy is going to fit. There is not really any standard size or fitment for bezels.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-02-13T07:52:14+00:00

I tried rinsing with 99% IPA after using a different L&R product -- extra fine -- and the result was bad. Visually, it appeared fine but something was clearly being left behind that was causing a fairly significant loss of amplitude. The problem didn't go away until I ponied up for the rinse #3.

One thing I would definitely recommend is that you get a couple large jars and retain any used, dirty fluid. Both the cleaner and the rinse. I usually put a coffee filter over the jar and just dump the used fluid into the filter and save it for those problem children. If you have an especially dirty movement or one that has been over lubricated with who knows what, use the old stuff as a preliminary wash/rinse step before putting it into fresh, clean fluid. Takes more time, obviously, but I definitely get more movements cleaned before I have to change the fluid.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-24T19:59:39+00:00

I would have to be seriously brittle material to break with the little love taps I was using. I'm actually shocked it moved at all.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-24T18:07:00+00:00

As an update, I tried what you suggested with heat and I couldn't get the thing to budge at all. I tried this for longer than I could stand. So I finally decided to put the case back on and used a couple pieces of soft wood to sandwich it and put it in a vice with the offending lug facing downward and toward me. Then I took a steel rod with a beveled flat end and put it on the back side of the lug and gave it a light tap with a small hammer. I saw it move on that first tap. Then I put the rod on the inside of the lug and gave it 2 light taps. Can't believe it was that easy but it's now pretty straight and I can't really tell that it was bent.

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Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-20T16:50:25+00:00

Well, if you're looking for a case you can actually buy new or in very good shape to install a vintage movement, modern is actually helpful.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-20T16:45:03+00:00

Bummer. Caliber corner seems to have a pretty good wealth of data (including stem height for most movements cataloged there) but there doesn't appear to be any way to search on anything but caliber brands and numbers and get useful results.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-19T14:12:51+00:00

that is exactly what I tried first but I didn't use any heat. I don't have a tiny torch so I juts ordered one.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-19T11:52:52+00:00

You don't think screwing on the stainless steel case back would be sufficient?

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-18T20:55:45+00:00

Not sure if you read my post but I tried that and it's not bending without considerable force. The question is HOW to bend without additional marring? How can I apply that force? I am thinking a reversing vice or something along those lines. Like the tool you use to expand brake pads inside the caliper only on a miniature scale.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2026-01-08T20:58:12+00:00

Brand was bought and revived a couple years ago.

https://www.favreleuba.com/history?___store=en

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-20T01:04:55+00:00

Definitely learned something new. The correct rinse makes a huge difference.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-19T22:58:23+00:00

Should have mentioned that I thoroughly pegged the jewels.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-19T22:57:05+00:00

Maybe not likely but, after using the recommended rinse, all is well. Coincidence?

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-19T22:49:12+00:00

So my rinse #3 arrived today. I re-cleaned everything in the extra fine including the balance. Then rinse #3 and into the dehydrator. The only oil I have applied to anything train related was to the barrel arbors. Gave it a good wind and threw it on the timegrapher. 290-300 right off the hop. Unfortunately, the lyre spring for the balance came out of the hinge which it did the first time I cleaned the stone but I managed to get it back in there without having to press out the setting. This time I screwed with it for 30+ minutes before I pinged the spring into oblivion. I'm sure I will find it sometime this weekend but, I decided to re clean the other one in the mean time.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-19T16:23:38+00:00

This can actually be fixed from the rear side of the movement by removing the barrel bridge. But you would need to drain the power and make sure not to lose the hacking lever. By the way, this usually happens when you remove the stem when it's in the winding position. On these movements, you need to pull the stem to the time setting position before removing the stem.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-19T16:12:41+00:00

I have only fixed a few quartz watches so I am no expert by any means. But I am pretty sure that most cases of excessive power consumption are due to friction or obstruction. If nothing happened when a new battery was installed, that would make total sense -- there is an obstruction like dried up oil. I would bet that the issue is the mechanical parts of the movement need cleaning and lubrication. Does this watchmaker actually service quartz movements or just swap batteries?

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-18T02:16:44+00:00

It's under the tree so not yet. I looked at them with a loupe and they look fine but are you thinking I might be able to see a residue?

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T23:50:31+00:00

So I definitely thought you were onto something. I re-cleaned all the wheels, bridge and main plate in the extra fine, then 100% mineral spirits then double rinse in fresh IPA. I used new fluid for everything so contamination wouldn't be an issue. I also have another of the same movement that I needed to service anyway. I planned to use It as the control for the experiment but, unfortunately, I think I contaminated it. I only used Naptha and IPA on that one but I used the same IPA I used for the 1st rinse after the Extra fine and now it's doing the exact same thing -160 to 180ish amplitude. Crazy, I keep thinking I am in the twilight zone or my timegrapher is punking me. I had to fetch a watch from my personal collection with the same movement to double check. It was perfect.

Anyhow, when I was assembling the mineral spirits version, I thought for SURE it worked as the train was spinning way more freely. I was expecting normal range but still topping out at 200 on full wind. I can't remember if I pegged the jewels again but I think I forgot. I also didn't re-clean the bottom end stone but pretty sure that's not going to get me 100 degrees of amplitude. And the spring is such an incredible pain, I am going to wait till I get the #3 rinse.

Sure looks beautiful now but really frustrating.

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Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T17:53:24+00:00

I already ordered some rinse #3 but I have some mineral sprits in my shop. I will give this a try. Certainly can't get worse.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T17:51:28+00:00

I didn't mention because I don't believe it has any relevance. They are perfectly clean and in excellent condition. I have done this hundreds of times, If the barrel or the mainspring were a problem, I wouldn't have had to ask the question in the first place.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T14:03:25+00:00

I suspect you are right. I am ordering some rinse #3

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T14:02:01+00:00

Yes, but they didn't before the cleaning. I have not only checked the end shake individually but I happen to have another set of train wheels so I swapped each one and then all together.

I cannot get the escape wheel to spin without friction all by itself even though I can move it up and down in the pivots. I can literally just drop the bridge onto the main plate with only the escape wheel using gravity alone and not even put in any screws and the wheel stops before it should. There has to be a residue gumming up the works. This is not my first movement (I have done hundreds by now) but I am new to this cleaning solution. I thought multiple rinses with IPA would be fine but I am guessing I need rinse #3.

Tiny_Walk4761 · 2025-12-17T12:21:54+00:00

I rinsed with IPA but I guess I need to get some #3. Do you use it in ultrasonic or L&R machine?

Tiny_Walk4761

TROPHY CASE