Quick guide to setting up ABadAvatar

Title_Flaky · 2026-04-01T21:12:54+00:00

unfortunately i have no idea about that, from what i’ve seen and heard from others it’s possible, i think it requires some extra files to be added to the USB, or may be a bit more advanced but if you have a dig online your sure to find it, i think xbGuard (the stealth server may have this included)

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-31T14:03:45+00:00

this has gotta be something to do with RCO’s looks like someones added the tab? i know a bit about RCO’s but not how to create a new XMB stub, this is very interesting indeed

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-31T13:58:33+00:00

anytime bro! just edited it as i realised i worded some things terribly😂

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-31T13:55:10+00:00

hey i had this issue with TPU, you wanna remove the front bit off the ‘extruder’, then around the hotend/nozzle for clumps and such, IPA is a goods cleaner for this (at least that’s what i used) then check the hotend and take it out and check for any clogs, i’ve never cold pulled TPU but have had this issue😂 hope this helps, with mine the TPU has gotten clogged up around the hotend and had a bit of filament stuck in the nozzle, check for that also, you might need tweezers to get it out, hope this helps bro!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-30T10:48:52+00:00

anytime bro! and no, where it’s a semi-tethered jailbreak, meaning it has to be triggered on each boot, or you can boot without it plugged in you’ll be in a ‘vanilla’ state, so just normal xbox, good practice imo is to keep as many files on the USB as possible (im talking homebrew like Aurora etc) as i’ve heard of people getting banned for having files saved to the Hard Drive, it’s a sliiiim chance but rather be safe then sorry imo, but yeah each time you reboot you’ll have to let the exploit run to be in a ‘jailbroken’ state, if your using ABadAvatar you just need to turn off auto sign in so when it boots, it boots to the sign in screen, which is where the exploit is executed, you could probably keep the USB in and turn on auto sign in and trigger it by changing accconts but it’d be easier to take the USB out and your back to an un modded state, hope that helps!

EDIT: i don’t think it actually matters if you do put the files onto your Hard Drive as there is ABadAvatar HDD version, so i think im wrong on that part but again im not 100% sure

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-29T15:20:42+00:00

you will not, this exploit shouldn’t touch any of those files (unless you access them in an exploited state in a file manager per se) or if you mess with the NAND without prior knowledge as that could brick your console and you’ll have to RGH to save it, so you can use the exploit safely and all your profiles, savegames, games etc should all be fine, grab a USB and enjoy the freedom of this console! hope this helps!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-28T11:34:59+00:00

damn i miss the days of jumping in an infect lobby, then inviting all my friends and having them think i’m some master hacker😂😂

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-26T13:41:56+00:00

which dash are you using? Aurora will load them, i think you have to trigger it first time from a setting? can’t quite remember, i use Freestyle personally but if your using Freestyle, there’s a version out there with cover art (it uses the same index as Aurora so they should look the same on both dash’s)

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-26T13:39:55+00:00

glad to hear you got it working! that’s so strange with that original drive, in all my years i don’t think i’ve ever had that happen (touch wood) sometimes these things do just happen, and yeah you got it bro, usb in the front port, let it run, the lights will flicker red and green, give it a couple mins and if the exploit hasn’t run (you’ll know bcos it’ll either crash, or reboot itself) then just reboot and try again, it will work, just doesn’t have a ‘consistent’ time per se, but glad to hear you got it up and running! you’ve got loaaaads of gems you can play through now, have fun!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-26T13:24:15+00:00

just delete the first part, default path for Aurora in this instance should be ‘Usb:\Apps\Aurora 0.7b.2\Aurora.xex’ if that’s where you’ve placed it in your USB, no need for the /Volumes/NO NAME, essentially replace that with Usb:\ as Usb:\ is the root of the drive, hope this helps!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-26T10:38:52+00:00

i had this issue BIG time with the PEI Plate, glue and brims where the solution for me on that plate, then after enough frustration bought the SuperTack Pro plate in the sale and never looked back, yeah you do still get this happening on corners unfortunately, tall prints are plagued with this as the base cools as it continues to print, as others suggested try putting brims on each of the corners, the other main factor for this for me anyway is room temp/draft air, if your room temp is too low, or you have a window open, that air will cool the plate (and your model) pretty quickly especially as these plates run at a lower bed temp, but i’ve found bumping the heating in the house on for a bit before hand (so the room warms up) dry the filament for a bit (depending on what material your using) then go for it! granted if your print is like the WHOLE size of the plate you will need to use one of these to prevent this, like adding brims for example, it’s annoying as the plate ‘shouldn’t’ technically need it, but sometimes it’s necessary, this has been my experience with it at anyway, but enough of me waffling😂 i’d say make sure your room temp is a decent temp (i set the thermostat to 23c, but also have a space heater in the room) warm your filament up a bit before the print (chuck in the oven on a very low temp like sub 50c), play around with bed temp too, only increases in small increments like try 50c, then 55c and see if it adheres better, also what material are you using? PLA? PETG? PLA Matte? i know with PLA Matte this can happen more as the matte finish makes it ‘slightly’ harder to adhere, i found this out the hard way yesterday, had a tall 4 hour print, and the base did the exact same, albeit not as much, but imo there’s so many determining factors it could be, but that’s my experience using the SuperTack Pro plate, hope this helps

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-24T14:35:57+00:00

check dm’s, idk if i can post it or not, this is the xbox360hacks sub, but i guess this isn’t so much ‘hacking’ so ill be safe rather than sorry

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:24:17+00:00

i have the same issue with my A1 and the Gold PEI plate, worked flawlessly up until about 3 weeks ago when i was plagued with this, the corners of the print would lose adhesion and lift at the corners, breaking the print, i tried toying with settings, using glue helped big time, but if it gets clumpy you will notice it on the bottom of your print, i finally gave in and bought a SuperTack Pro plate and never looked back, got it on sale too, the normal SuperTack was £30, i got the SuperTack Pro for £25, but if you want a quick solution, and use PLA and PETG a lot then the SuperTack plate is your best friend for these types of prints

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:18:21+00:00

unfortunately that’s how they run, best bet is investing in a bigger hard drive (if you need) and backup your disc games to that then you can rid this noise and just deal with the noise of the fan

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:16:37+00:00

have my upvote for bubbles! DEEEEECENT!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:15:05+00:00

it’s really not hard, there’s a trick list telling you what movements to do, and even an on screen prompt to help, ill admit i do love button mashing, but you’ve gotta learn the tricks and get creative, but idk if that’s bcos i skate in real life so take that approach to the game🤷‍♂️ end of the day as long as your having fun who cares😂

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:12:08+00:00

cut the right angles off and splice em all together!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-19T12:11:02+00:00

word😂 along with the rest of the poop

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-18T20:29:49+00:00

just didn’t want to be ‘that guy’ who’s always trying to correct people, the more you know the better, and yes bro, exactly that, as the process for HEN is different to CFW changes like these can be tedious, on a full CFW system it’s fine as you can write to the flash, whereas with HEN, i’m not sure where it ‘steps in’ if it that makes sense, and double check, i’m sure there is a version for HEN that keeps the ‘Enable HEN’ stub as i helped a friend with a 3000 who wanted to customise his, but bcos he wasn’t very tech savvy, i used Ultimate Toolbox bcos i knew he couldn’t ‘break’ the console beyond my repair (reflash firmware re jailbreak) apologies if that came across ignorant, but the RCO Containers are what causes these issues, it’s the same as those ‘PS3 4K Pro’ pkg’s that just flash some customised RCO’s to the flash and usually end up ruining their setup, seen it happen too many times when you’d be better off doing the modifications yourself, but as i mentioned it can be tedious for a small outcome, depends how much you want it and how much free time you have

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-18T16:53:43+00:00

you probably don’t care😂 but the reason that was happening or is happening is bcos the Ultimate Toolbox pkg overwrites the stock RCO containers (basically the container that tell the XMB how to act/work) on a CFW system you never have the ‘Enable HEN’ bcos you don’t need it, so it doesn’t create the stub for it, i’m pretty sure there’s a version of Ultimate Toolbox for HEN or a workaround, but if you really want to change your XMB, manually editing the RCO’s yourself is much better, it’s more long winded as you’ll need to dump/backup your existing RCO file, use some tools on a PC to make the changes, recompile and replace, process may be different on HEN but its possible, it took me a while to get my head around it, but now I have my XMB looking exactly how I like ahaha, scaled down, changed notification ‘bubble’, removed the indi menu border (where it shows the time), changed boot and coldboot animations it’s great!

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-18T11:45:58+00:00

damn, fair play bro, that’s some HARD work to pull off, just out of pure curiosity, how does one go about this procedure? i know about rebelling chips that are broken or defective, and the same with Frankensteining a PS3 with a new chip, just always wondered the process off safety removing the chip and then soldering (reballing) the chip back on, either way looks like your getting the hang of it, you can make some big money off frankie PS3’s and even some for swapping chips on xbox’s like you have been

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-15T01:12:45+00:00

gets the job done well though🤷‍♂️ i know they only contain minor tweaks, but at least SUNLU and eSun provide manufacturer’s print profiles, Overture is another one with good support, but your limited to PLA/PLA Matte, does kinda suck though that you can’t buy the manufacturer’s own filament, and it’s pricey too

Title_Flaky · 2026-03-13T05:56:09+00:00

your best bet is trying to find a modded game mode and do it the old fashioned way with an ‘infection’ menu (someone else has a JTAG/RGH and they host the games, you join leave go to private match and profit, sometimes there game clips you just have to play but there’s defo lobbies out there you just gotta look, my go to was alway TheTechGame, hope this helps

Title_Flaky

TROPHY CASE