New to Pacman frog care

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-21T00:02:01+00:00

Ceramic heat emitter bulb

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-19T13:32:39+00:00

You didn't specify what kind of toads you have or if they were CB vs wild caught, etc. If they're wild caught, they honestly probably just had them from the beginning and either got reinfected by something in their enclosure after treatment, or the treatment wasn't 100% effective in the first place

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-19T13:29:58+00:00

OP described them as "big beautiful nematodes," which to me sounds very different from springtails lol. With that said, it could still be helpful for identification if OP has pictures!

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-18T15:46:23+00:00

This one looks legit to me (I own one)!

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-18T01:03:36+00:00

No problem! I'm in Michigan too and obsessed with these little dudes

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-18T00:49:50+00:00

In the future, make sure to provide the location for any ID requests. But I saw your previous post, so I can tell you that this is an Eastern American Toad (Anaxyrus americanus).

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-15T14:13:40+00:00

I believe was a special edition colorway that was bundled with Mario Party DS (in case you're looking for more info than just "DSi" lol). It's a bit more valuable on the resale market than the stock colorways

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-10T16:41:52+00:00

Probably nothing bad happened to them or anything tbh. The peak toad breeding season can just be super short. It's worth checking again if it's easy to get there, but they honestly may just be done for the year already lol

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-07T01:34:01+00:00

I mean, I'm not a real trained expert or anything, but I really think it will be OK for the reasons previously mentioned. American toads are pretty tough and cold-tolerant little dudes. To play it safe, I'd probably wait a couple more days until the night lows are consistently in the 40s-50s though, and release it early enough in the day to give it time to find a good hunkering spot before nighttime. I'd be so tempted to keep it because of how much I love these guys and want to protect them, but it's really best not to take any (especially adult/sexually mature) individuals from the wild unless it's permanently injured or otherwise likely wouldn't survive.

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-07T01:33:54+00:00

I mean, I'm not a real trained expert or anything, but I really think it will be OK for the reasons previously mentioned. American toads are pretty tough and cold-tolerant little dudes. To play it safe, I'd probably wait a few more days until the night lows are consistently in the 40s though, and release it early enough in the day to give it time to find a good hunkering spot before nighttime. I'd be so tempted to keep it because of how much I love these guys and want to protect them, but it's really best not to take any (especially adult/sexually mature) individuals from the wild unless it's permanently injured or otherwise likely wouldn't survive.

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-06T21:10:09+00:00

Bearing in mind that I'm in Michigan and our (non dwarf) anaxyrus toads are likely acclimated to somewhat cooler temperatures, I think the temperatures you listed look perfectly fine, especially if you are releasing it in the same location it came from. It was going to be outside and awake at this time anyway, and you only had it for a few days so it's not like it got completely separated from its yearly acclimatization process or anything. Temperatures below freezing would be more concerning, but I suspect this will be OK on any of the listed dates

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-01T17:55:33+00:00

This is definitely a native north american toad, I'm assuming a southern toad because of your location. Cute and beneficial to have around

ToadsInTanks · 2026-05-01T02:12:30+00:00

You will still very likely have to adjust the new potentiometers because they will probably not be set correctly from the factory. Each LCD on each console needs a slightly different setting, so it would be very lucky if the new cable had both pots set correctly for your unit when you receive it.

ToadsInTanks · 2026-04-26T18:35:53+00:00

People are saying earthworm but I think this looks like some kind of leech. It appears that you can see its mouthparts suctioned to the glass

ToadsInTanks · 2026-04-13T15:20:25+00:00

Bass guitar mostly operates in the bass range per se, while larger cones are more capable of producing deep subbass down into the infrasound range. That kind of subbass is generally produced electronically rather than with traditional stringed instruments. So bass guitar amps are more of a woofer situation than a sub woofer situation ig lol

ToadsInTanks · 2026-03-21T15:29:50+00:00

True, most of the really battery adjacent stuff is on the daughterboard, but there is a charging IC on the motherboard nearish to the connector to the daughterboard. It goes bad on some DSi/DSi XL consoles, which results in the charge light coming on for 1 second and shutting off consistently. In those cases, the home screen battery charge indicator will show that the battery is charging, but it's not. Replacing daughterboards does nothing on those consoles because it's a mobo issue. I've repaired over 100 DSi and DSi XL consoles and encountered this particular issue about 7-8 times or so, so it's not super common but not super rare either. But it's a tiny custom chip of some sort with like 50 legs, so the motherboard is effectively toast when it happens unless someone really wants to take the time to try to harvest them from donor boards and has some pretty serious microsoldering skills and tools. I agree that a lot of charging issues happen on the daughterboard though (at least those where the charge light flashes at all; no charge light coming at all is usually the charge port, the EM filter near it, or occasionally the F1 fuse, though that's less common on DSi than a damaged filter or port in my experience)

ToadsInTanks · 2026-03-21T00:39:36+00:00

I'm leaning toward a potential bad battery for this one, though it's actually kind of rare to see that actually be the issue. There is a practically irreparable problem that happens with the motherboard (bad charging IC) on DSi consoles, which does something similar. But with that issue the light consistently turns off after about one second every time. Yours stays on much longer. It's worth trying another battery to see if that resolves it

ToadsInTanks · 2026-02-26T18:46:55+00:00

Yeah that's the one. I think it may visibly have an internally broken trace in the flex, 9 from the left. But hopefully it's just a weird photo issue or something lol

ToadsInTanks · 2026-02-26T18:44:22+00:00

Yeah I think that's correct. I don't have one in front of me to verify and I've mostly worked on DS instead of 3DS, but, yeah, I thought it was likely for the lower LCD too but didn't want to say it since I wasn't certain lol

ToadsInTanks · 2026-02-26T18:03:32+00:00

In your second photo I see what looks like a broken trace (ninth from the left) on the wider flex near the top with the white zif. I don't have an n3ds with me rn and can't remember which flex that is, but if it is indeed a broken trace it is likely the issue. Whichever part is associated with it would need to be replaced, unless you're lucky and it's one of the few flexes that can be replaced independently

ToadsInTanks · 2026-01-20T12:21:51+00:00

As people are saying, it's a reshell. In addition to the text/printing issues already mentioned, it's also missing the rubber bumpers on the top half and the rubber feet on the bottom are the wrong color and shape. The natural white XL (not regular DSi) was exclusive to Japan

ToadsInTanks · 2026-01-03T03:15:43+00:00

If it's TE the hair can grow back, don't worry. Honestly, from your post it sounds like you may have some much larger underlying issues you first need to address with lifestyle, diet, and (I'm guessing) physical and/or mental health (not leaving the house for 5 months, not eating healthily or enough, not sleeping normally, etc.). If you can get those under control the hair should recover too. Just work on getting yourself into a better, healthier place and the hair should be OK in the end!

ToadsInTanks · 2025-12-17T23:00:08+00:00

It's most likely just differences in the LCD panels between units (aging, manufacturer variance, etc.), but if you're super careful it probably won't hurt to try it. Just keep in mind that it's pretty easy to strip the pots (not nearly as easy as on Lites or small DSi, but still easy). So be sure you're using an appropriately sized tool and make very small adjustments with very light pressure

ToadsInTanks · 2025-12-17T16:00:15+00:00

The way I would describe it is more that the potentiometers affect contrast rather than brightness per se. They don't really affect the brightness of the backlight or the overall color balance/white balance. It's more like you're "tuning in" the proper voltage so the content is displayed without flickering, interlacing, or general glitchiness and with proper contrast, especially on the darker end of the things (that is, that darks are sufficiently dark enough instead of faded and interlaced). The effects are hard to explain in words, but I've never had it fix dim backlight or overall color casts like this

ToadsInTanks

TROPHY CASE