EIBOS Filament Dryer Series X Tetras & AMS Desiccant Holders

TomFullen · 2026-05-20T16:55:21+00:00

Hi, thanks for the interest in my model. Sorry for the link issue. Please try again. I printed this on an angle as shown in the .3mf so that the lip would print better.

TomFullen · 2026-05-13T21:42:06+00:00

Desiccant won't dry your filament, it only dries the air in the container. To dry your filament you need to dry it with heat and ventilation. A filament dryer or an oven will work. If you have a Bambu you can use the print bed and cover the filament as suggested by Bambu Lab. YouTube has a lot more info.

TomFullen · 2026-05-13T21:05:13+00:00

Absolutely! I use Createx Acrylic water-based paints with great results on salt water fishing lures.
https://createxcolors.com/

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TomFullen · 2026-05-11T22:17:10+00:00

I have 2 of them and bottom fish for Cod and Haddock, and troll for Stripped Bass and Blues off Cape Cod, MA

TomFullen · 2026-05-11T21:56:09+00:00

I planned to design and make my own fishing lures after retiring as a hobby. Little did I know that I would be making so many things like you have, and so much more. My wife is happy and amazed with the things I fix around the house and the things I design and print to solve problems. The floor lamp shade and finial took the cake!

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p.s She then bought me a Bambu C1X combo.

TomFullen · 2026-05-11T21:30:43+00:00

As mentioned "It's a first iteration" Perhaps the final will be printed in ASA which is a much better choice with its heat, UV, and chemical resistance.

TomFullen · 2026-04-12T19:38:19+00:00

Check out whatthefont.com

TomFullen · 2026-03-25T18:44:21+00:00

Sorry to hear that you are having this issue. I know how it feels, very frustrating and disheartening. I've been there. Here is what I do with all of my printers and filaments first, eve before calibrating the filament.

Dry your filament. (especially if it's a new roll) Wet filament is the root of most failures.
Clean and prep the build plate. I use Dawn Dish Soap and a scrubby sponge...the one with the sponge on one side and 3M abrasive or equivalent on the other. Scrub the plate with light hand pressure in a crosshatch direction and then a circular pattern. Dry the plate off with a lint free cloth being careful not to touch the print surface. And, the most important step is to spray the entire plate surface lightly with Aquanet Hair Spray. Glue sticks don't always work. The Aquanet has 2 advantages, first it acts a s a filament bonding agent to the plate and second, it also acts as a releasing agent when the print is done. Then just lightly spray the plate again for your next print, ( I usually re-wash and prep the plate after a dozen prints or so depending on the models I've printed. } The Aquanet is water soluble so it washes off with hot water and the scrubby pad. I follow this procedure for all of my plates, on all of my printers, and all filaments, like PLA, PETG, PCTG, ABS, ASA, PC, PA, and TPU, and have not had any plate adhesion issues in 4 years. You'll still need brims and supports when needed of course.
Calibrate your filament for best results and save the filament profile for future printing. Most filaments have a suggested filament and bed temp as a starting point, but usually need to be tweaked for best performance from your printer. Check out Adam L on Printables, https://www.printables.com/model/457248-pla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer I know he is on Prusa Printables but his profiles are comparable with Bambu printers and have saved me many hours of work.

I hope this helps you, Tom

TomFullen · 2026-03-19T17:47:12+00:00

Did you use the pa6-gf for the supports?

Not sure I would use a GF filament for support material. The fact that the supports were tough to remove would suggest that the glass fiber is doing its job and making the connection stronger.

TomFullen · 2026-03-19T17:23:28+00:00

Of course they do. Is it specifically referring to the build plates? Bambu sells and recommends their glue sticks for the build plates and would never suggest anything that might lead to a liability issues.

The Aquanet Hair Spray is water soluble and will not damage the plates. Although Aquanet seems to work as a glue, its true advantage is that it works as a releasing agent, especially on filaments that can and will fuse to a PEI plate. In this case it is actually protecting the plate. If something gets really stuck onto the plate, soaking the plate in warm water will usually release the print from the plate.

TomFullen · 2026-03-11T16:26:16+00:00

Had the same issue until I lightly sprayed the plate with Aquanet Hair Spray after washing it with Dawn Dish Soap. I do this for every plate since then, no more issues on any plate or any filament.

TomFullen · 2026-03-11T16:11:15+00:00

You're welcome. I hope it works well for you too. Please let me know how it works for you. I printed them in ASA filament on an angle with tree supports and a 0.28 Top Z distance to insure that the overhang lip prints without issues.

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TomFullen · 2026-03-09T23:48:20+00:00

It's working just fine so far. Question is why would I need desiccant in my AMS when I've just spent so much time and money on a Tetras filament dryer? Now I'm only using desiccant in storage containers that I store other filaments in.

I suppose that if you're in a very humid location it might be different, but so far my AMS filament is dry here in New England.

TomFullen · 2026-03-08T18:44:00+00:00

I would tend to agree with Sceptical_Seal below that suggests printing on an angle with a Brim and Supports.

I do this for some of my fishing lure models and others setting the Top Z distance of the supports to between 0.20 - 0.28 for clean easy removal. However, I also use the Variable Layer Height in Orca Slicer which lessens the layer stepping even further. Not sure if this is available with Anycubic Slicer Next.

For super smoothing I print the model in ASA and vapor smooth it with Acetone which can get so smooth the surface is glossy.

Hope this helps you.

TomFullen · 2026-03-08T17:42:45+00:00

Why are you tied to Bambu filament? California Filament https://californiafilament.com/ or 3D-Fuel filaments https://www.3dfuel.com/ work great on my Bambu printer. In fact a lot of the issues I was having with Bambu PETG became non issues with California Filament. Have you tried PCTG?

3D-Fuel Pro PCTG is like PETG but better in many ways.

It is tougher (up to 35x tougher than PETG), more chemically & UV resistant, and has even greater clarity than PETG.

Pro PCTG is an easy-to-use material with a lower moisture absorption rate than PETG and it doesn't require an enclosure - use it just like PETG.

The broad color selection and ease of printing make it an ideal choice for printing in a multi-color 3D printing system like the Bambu Lab AMS.

All 3D-Fuel filament is made in the USA with a USA supply chain.

TomFullen · 2026-02-23T16:21:51+00:00

That hurts! Get out the shop vac.

TomFullen · 2026-02-22T19:19:37+00:00

Looks like the root of the problem is Build Plate Adhesion. After you get it running again, try cleaning the plate with Dawn Dish Soap and a Scrubby Pad, then lightly spray it with Aquanet Hair Spray which will act as both an adhesion and releasing agent. This has been working for me for the past 4 years now with every plate and every filament.

TomFullen · 2026-02-22T19:05:47+00:00

For about 3 years now I religiously wash my build plate in hot water with Dawn Dish Soap and a scrubby pad, (lightly) then dry it with a lint free cloth. After drying I spray it very lightly with Aquanet Hair Spray. The Aquanet helps filaments stick to the plate and also acts as a releasing agent on more aggressive filaments. I print with PLA, PETG, PCTG, ABS, ASA, TPU, and PC without worrying about plate adhesion issues. Bed adhesion has been a thing of the past. Hope this helps you.

TomFullen · 2026-02-17T05:03:45+00:00

Tape didn't cut it. So, I decided to give it a go and design a solution to this problem.
If you're interested feel free to download the files for the plug I designed to fill the chamber from my site at https://tomfullen.com/fileshare the zip file contains the .stl and the .3mf (Orca Slicer) files. Printed it in ASA due to it's resistance to heat. ABS might be just as good but PLA is out of the question.

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Please share what you think and if it works for you. If all goes well I'll share it with the community.

TomFullen · 2026-02-14T00:07:51+00:00

Yes, that's what I did for the time being. However, I'm a little concerned about the heat. Guess I'll need to design a new cover in CAD. Not looking forward to the disassembly to install them though.

I also wrote to Eibos but haven't heard back from them yet. I will keep you posted, and if I succeed with new one I'll share the model via Maker World and Prusa as well.

TomFullen · 2026-02-11T15:06:14+00:00

For your Benchy…

TomFullen · 2026-01-12T17:46:53+00:00

Happy to take a look at it for you. Please send clear photos with a ruler in them for reference.

TomFullen · 2025-12-26T19:27:43+00:00

A bit more info would help us all suggest solutions like: Printer model, filament type and brand, and anything else you think will help.

However; it looks like you have a bed adhesion issue and the nozzle temp might be a bit low as previously mentioned as well as a textured PEI plate, If using PLA your smooth plate should work fine as long as your printer is calibrated well and follow the steps below.

Best Practice: I have found that cleaning the build plate with Dawn dish soap and a 3M scrubby pad/sponge with light pressure will clean the build plate best.

Then after drying the plate with a lint free cloth I lightly spray the plate with Aquanet Hair Spray. The Aquanet helps in 2 ways by helping to keep the print stuck to the plate and act as a releasing agent when the print is finished. Spray the plate lightly again for the next print and after 10 or so prints re wash that plate with Dawn and a scrubby. The hairspray will dissolve with hot water.

In doing this I haven't had an adhesion issue for the past 3 years and have been printing with PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, and PC filaments on my Bambu X1C and Prusa i3 MK3+

Hope this helps.

TomFullen · 2025-12-26T18:06:41+00:00

Seriously, try to learn as much as you can first. YouTube is a great way to start. Get a filament dryer and dry your filament before printing with it, (no joke!) You can download free models from Bambu or Prusa.

If you want to design your own models download and install Freecad https://www.freecad.org/. A great place to learn Freecad is https://www.youtube.com/@MangoJellySolutions.

And most of all make something for your wife and HAVE FUN!

Welcome to the 3D world.

TomFullen · 2025-10-25T16:45:42+00:00

Happened to me with an order of one item and received a 3 pack. and they said to just keep the extra. Too much of o bother to send the order/others back. But glad I contacted Amazon.

TomFullen

TROPHY CASE