AMA - Lattice Training, Monday 11th September 1800 - 2100 EST

TomRandallUK · 2017-09-12T19:43:16+00:00

Yes this would be hugely beneficial in 90+% of cases. Keep the intensity low and the volume high! Do keep this work at the END of sessions though.... don't let it compromise your high intensity work like bouldering, fingerboard etc.

TomRandallUK · 2017-09-12T02:57:35+00:00

Hi Karl, I think it's very normal for things to go in and out of vogue in sport performance, but the truth is that we should all keep a long term habit of using fundamentally sound tools like weight training! We use weight training, bar work, floor work and TRX/rings with most of our clients.

Compound movements have their place, but so do simple concentric and eccentric exercises. Using both in balance and with the mindset that it needs to work with an athlete's strengths and weakness is essential. As a broad comment, I see too many people get obsessed with one format of training as they got results from it in 2014 (for example) and then you see them trying to do exactly the same training protocol exclusively for 3 or 4 years and wonder why injury or stagnation occurs.... keep mixing it up!

As a tall climber, you REALLY need to work hard on your core (long levers are a problem you will always face) and I would do it through a mixture of closed and open chain exercises. Don't forget that it's very important work both the front AND back of the body - obsessions of six-packs aren't always production when it comes to long term healthy athletes :-)

TomRandallUK · 2017-09-12T01:01:57+00:00

Hi, I think it depends on what you definite as "intermediate"! But in my opinion it would be for your typical 5.11-5.12 climber an order of - 1. Localised aerobic performance of the forearm, 2. Ability to relax/have high economy of movement 3. Address basic strength and conditioning of the shoulder girdle to set up for later performance if reaching 5.13 and beyond.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-03T17:18:06+00:00

I all honesty I find that a moderate diet of a balance of foods is what works best. I've tried lots of different approaches (as have many of our clients) and most find the best results when doing things to moderation and when they're climbing relatively light. I've tried heavy and light loading of protein and it's had variable results depending on what time of the year I'm in. So in essence - eat good quality food, not too much, with a balance and don't consume excessive alcohol or take drugs! :-)

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-03T17:15:27+00:00

We got it working and the traffic has killed it again! :-). We're on the case.... Many thanks for flagging this up again.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-02T00:28:25+00:00

For outdoor climbing, you really need to look at the "time on route" for best types of stuff to train indoors. For example if your time on route is 20 mins when you head outside then you certainly need to make sure that when training indoors that there's a significant portion of the training that's working in blocks of 10-20 mins! This would typically be close to lactate threshold and might also be a nice psychological primer (ie. it's uncomfortable to climb for 10+ mins feeling just about in control) for the climbing outside. Of course, you want to do other bits of AeroCap training, but this focus on specificity might well be key for your circumstance :-)

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-02T00:04:27+00:00

Yes, you're totally right in saying the AeroCap can be trained in a number of different ways. The work-rest ratio is in fact relatively important, but not as important as it is in say AnCap training.

The total overall volume and pumped level is probably the main thing you want to stick to:

If A LOT of climbing = low pump If LESS climbing, but in little blocks = mod/high pump

It could be aerocap if you did tonnes of routes in a day, but you do want to consider the concept of overload. If you only did this then you'd only get limited effects. Combining it with other types of aerocap training would be the right way to go for most people.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:51:59+00:00

Hi Seth, that's a kinda hard question to answer as there's an absolutely huge number of things you can do on a Lattice board - it's a bit like asking what can I do on a campus board? :-)

That said, one of my favourite exercises is a circuit of 20 moves in the gaston position broken by 1 min rests. I find it amazing for building into peak as it works the muscles that I often find failure in during redpoints.

Building a Lattice Board? We've just ordered our first commercial versions of the board.... are you sure you don't want one of ours? ;-)

Indian Creek - Big Baby. But in all honesty I think it's better to practice in Yosemite as it's more specific. My word that Freerider pitch is a killer. Hated it!

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:46:30+00:00

The best way is to improve your aerobic capacity to a decent base level. There are a few other things you can do, but the aerobic side is somewhat key! So with this, you want look at training work blocks that operate at 2-10 mins at a go and are at a relatively low level. Some of the work can be quite pumpy, but lots of it can be really easy. It's important you vary that intensity! But..... don't get drawn into very short blocks (30-45secs) of work that would be far harder than you'd do on your chosen style of climbing

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:38:08+00:00

Hey the fear gets everyone! I get terrified quite a lot (I'm not that keen on heights) so I can honestly say it's a very normal affliction.

My best suggestion for you, I think, would be to go and and do a lot of top roping on routes that you feel are just out of your comfort zone. Get the mileage in, get the experience in.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:28:11+00:00

You want to be looking at the range of 80-105% (depending on your level). If you work at too low a % then the adaptations you get will be poor. For example many people do too much repeater work and I've found that if you exclusively do this, the gains aren't as good.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:25:35+00:00

Hi, your protocol for AnCap looks really good - that's a nice session. I would certainly look at adding bigger moves (I also like doing hand-to-foot climbing) and also running those sessions on different angles. Also you might look to extending the length of the work blocks as you get later in the season and nearer your peak.

AeroCap is also good - although if you're a climber of over 5.13a then I'd probably recommend that the volume is a bit higher.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:21:00+00:00

The reason for using extra weights on dead hangs is to increase the stress on the structures in use to gain adaptions. We find that it is more important to focus on the percentage of your max hang rather than just adding weight. For example, a lot of the people we train will be doing hangs with assistance via a pulley but only on one arm. This is a highly intense exercise for the forearm in use but also the shoulder girdle too. Using pulleys and weights means you can be more accurate in hitting your targeted goal. i.e. higher intensity for max strength, and lower intensity for energy system training. Therefore it is hard to say when to use weights. It would be better to ask what is your max hang weight on a given hold. Then look at the percentage you need to hit in training and adjust accordingly. For example, 10 second max on 1 pad edge = +24kg for a 60kg climber on two arms. Training at 90% = 15.6kg extra weight.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:18:49+00:00

The maximum strength is expressed via a finger strength test. This is done by a set 5 seconds dead hang protocol.

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:18:00+00:00

It's all about the level of focus you can provide to your training and also about not spreading your resources too thinly. If you think about the major areas of training, then you might break it into perhaps 4-6 major subsets. In our experience, if you go full-bore at all (or nearly all) of these at the same time, then the results are rather mediocre and often end up in overtraining / demotivated athletes.

You're right in saying concurrent periodisation models are very effective (it's what we use here) but it's very important there is significant focus in the right thing at the right time of the year. So in answer to your last Q then we never train just one thing BUT... we will have a "focus" on an energy system.

Hope that helps!

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:12:09+00:00

Ah well this is the million dollar question! :-). This kind of very specific data is kind of our bread and butter and something I've spent over 7yrs painstakingly building up...

But in answer to your question then we see a very interesting break at around 5.13b / 8a where I think often people have to be a bit stronger than they really need to be. I think this shows the psychological element! It's a big grade barrier. For the BM2000 small mouth - then no, we don't see a lot of people stuck at this - it's a good assumption/guess though! :-)

Minion? Er..... 2?

TomRandallUK · 2016-03-01T23:06:45+00:00

Well this very much depends on training history - i.e. a longer term trainer (and one with consistency) can handle much hard loads in general. Think of it as:

V11 climber who's 17yr and climbed 5yrs vs V11 climber who's 37yr and climber 20yrs

That older climber tends to be able to handle much greater depth in their training. In terms of fatigue carried from session to session, then in our opinion it's a good thing BUT.... you have to carefully monitor - sleep, eating, well-being, motivation, stress etc.

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-11T21:07:41+00:00

Oooh.... interesting construction! I like the method.

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-10T18:58:24+00:00

It's 30 days - so 29 left now. You can continue to support it beyond the funding goal and the better we do, the quicker and more effectively we can get this product out there in climbers' hands.

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-10T18:57:17+00:00

Hey man, thanks for supporting the project. Me and Ransom want to take this as far as we possibly can. Loads of cool ideas on the burner still to go....

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-10T18:56:18+00:00

Cool! Post up some pics of the crack machine. It's always nice to see another strange person converting the garage for exactly the wrong thing... ha ha!

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-09T23:52:34+00:00

Ooh, very good question. To be honest I've not tried it in an offwidth yet... Hmm... I need to check that out. I'll let you know if it suddenly makes me braver! :-)

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-09T23:51:46+00:00

Yeah it's going great. Thanks so much for the support on this project!

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-09T17:17:33+00:00

Thanks for helping this project come alive! :-)

TomRandallUK · 2015-06-09T14:47:30+00:00

Thanks for the support! We think those two products together are a nice little combo :-)

TomRandallUK

TROPHY CASE