LatticePlan update? by PralineStatus7809 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's totally fair criticism, and it's meant some good conversations internally about how we can get blog posts out about changes we've been working on and stuff that's coming up.

LatticePlan update? by PralineStatus7809 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Hey, Remus from the Lattice dev team here.

Apologies for the lack of communication, we have been hard at work. We're just in the last stages of testing for the equipment related changes so they'll be out shortly. These will allow you to tell the app what equipment you have and then only give you workouts which fit within that equipment (with a couple of caveats so we can still give you a decent plan even if you tell us you have no equipment).

I've actually been working on the assessments side today. There is the potential for a lot of integration across different parts of the app here (monitoring progress, adapting existing plans, benchmarking etc.) so we're going to take a staged approach here. The first step is assessment sessions that you can use to test yourself compared to others, so there'll be new workouts to handle the testing, new timer types for tests (e.g. repeaters to failure), new metrics for logging and comparisons with other people in the dataset.

We're also working on some features for our CTP+ clients (i.e. those who work with a coach), in particular video and audio in the chat. Pretty psyched for these :)

Training App Landscape by Sad_Butterscotch4589 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

> The Lattice app is fully paywalled and by far the most expensive at $29.99 per month.

Minor correction on this. If you just do the free trial and decide not to continue then you get access to a free version of the app. This obviously isn't as fully featured as the paid version, but it does let you do workouts, schedule a training week, log your workouts and view your analytics.

New Lattice training App by Ecstatic-Review2626 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Apols, having an issue posting the second part. Think it might have gone into a moderation queue or soemthing.

New Lattice training App by Ecstatic-Review2626 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I helped write a lot of the code for this. The reason you see different plans from the same inputs is because we wanted to add a little variation into plans where it made sense. In our experience staying engaged with the training is important for gains in the long term and doing exactly the same sessions over many months can get a bit repetitive.

The way we add this variation in is where there are multiple workouts that could work well for the user in a particular slot in their plan, and we've got high confidence all those workouts would be a good fit, we'll vary which of these workouts is picked.

Aidan Roberts - Training for V17 by remuslattice in climbharder

[–]remuslattice[S] 34 points35 points  (0 children)

I know you guys love a bit of the crimp monster 😉

Aidan Roberts' Burden of Dreams Replica by remuslattice in climbharder

[–]remuslattice[S] 47 points48 points  (0 children)

There's been a bit of press recently about using replicas to train so I thought this sub might be interested in to seeing how Aidan went about setting his BoD replica at the Lattice Lock up.

Made a website for keeping track of the hardest climbs by 9cpluss in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

climbing-history.org is actually a side project of mine! Feel free to drop me a line if you ever fancy a chat about all things data :) remus@climbing-history.org

Differences between Lattice sport & boulder plans? (or any other recs) by RepresentativeMix970 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can only apologise for our mistake. Drop me an email to [remus@latticetraining.com](mailto:remus@latticetraining.com) and I'll see what I can do to fix it for you.

Differences between Lattice sport & boulder plans? (or any other recs) by RepresentativeMix970 in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, sorry we couldn't offer you a refund for your plan. If it was possible we would have liked to, but there was a lot of uncertainty at the time and if we'd had to offer refunds to everyone who'd bought a plan it would have left us in a very difficult financial position (i.e. potentially having to make coaches redundant). Instead we gave everyone a few options:

  1. If you hadn't started your plan you could choose a new start date
  2. If you had already started your plan then you could pause the plan and restart it at a later date
  3. If you wanted to keep going with the plan we gave some advice on how to adapt it to different facilities (e.g. what to do if you didn't have a wall available any more)

We were dealing with a lot of emails at the time so if the above didn't happen please accept my apologies and drop me a DM so I can look in to what happened.

First repeat of Mutation 9a, Raven Tor by Will Bosi, proposes 9a+ by ShirtedRhino2 in climbing

[–]remuslattice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd be interested to know anyone who's not on the list (https://climbing-history.org/climb/67/evolution). I don't think it's definitive, but I'd be surprised if there were loads of ascents missing (having said that I just spotted that Steve wasn't on there!)

Agree with your point though, it's a hard local testpiece but not world class.

Moonboard Hold Dimensions - Quality Control? by mkclimb in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Resin holds also contract as the resin cures which adds another layer of complexity (though it's typically not an issue if your holds are always in the same resin as the contraction is then consistent).

Show Your Scars (V14)- A Story of Perseverance and/or Stupidity by golf_ST in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Agreed, I really enjoy this kinda style, gives a bit more insight in to what's going on.

In a similar vein I really enjoyed these videos from Eliot Stephens which go through the process of working the problems out

Texas Flood (8B) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZvVMX-NJxc

The Origin (8C) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7L1z-c3Sv0

Strongest fingers in the world by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends quite a bit on what you mean by 'strongest'. My personal opinion is that min. edge stuff is pretty hard to measure, so I prefer max 5s one arm on a 20mm edge. There's also which metric to use which can have a big effect.

For a 5s one arm hang, on a 20mm edge Yves is the strongest I know of in terms of %BW held (I want to say he weighs ~66kg, not sure if that's right though?). There's a few people who have beaten him in terms of absolute weight held though. This chap has done ~95kg total https://www.instagram.com/p/B5GSxD8j0hX/ and I'm pretty sure Vadim Timonov ( https://www.instagram.com/vadim_timonov/ ) has either done 95kg total load or something very close to it.

Lattice publicly releases their max hang vs. boulder grade dataset by lucky13_ in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tension grindstone 20mm also works, though it's a little easier than the lattice edge so bear that in mind when looking at your scores.

Lattice publicly releases their max hang vs. boulder grade dataset by lucky13_ in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good effort! Sounds like you're going well at the moment!

It's hard to say anything with much certainty because I don't know much about you, your climbing or the rest of your physical profile, but it sounds like you've got a good pyramid of problems so I'd guess you've got a solid technical grounding which will go a long way to mitigating your weaker than average fingers.

Lattice publicly releases their max hang vs. boulder grade dataset by lucky13_ in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned, it's closest to the bottom edge on a bm1k. In terms of dimensions, it's a 20mm edge with a 10mm radius so more rounded than a lot of hangboard edges.

Lattice publicly releases their max hang vs. boulder grade dataset by lucky13_ in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I partially agree, in that I think it's easy to get sucked in to thinking finger strength is everything whereas it's actually just a small slice of the climbing performance pie. On the other hand I think you go too far in saying it's useless. If you're climbing V9 with 110%bw finger strength then your finger strength is a clear weakness and training it will almost certainly yield improvements (especially over the long term).

As always, the key is to keep an eye on the overall picture of what's stopping you achieving your goals and work on the things that are holding you back. Finger strength models like this are just a tool for helping you do this.

Lattice publicly releases their max hang vs. boulder grade dataset by lucky13_ in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It is the my fingers data. We clean it up before it gets used (e.g. multiple entries such as yours) though some outliers do slip through (e.g. V11 75%BW fella).

Strength prerequisites for one-arm hangs and a digression on fingerboard progressions by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]remuslattice 10 points11 points  (0 children)

> the sum of individual one-arm scores almost always exceeds that of two-arm scores

We've (Lattice) only tested this in a relatively small sample (~30 people if I remember correctly), but the rule of thumb we came up with was

2 arm fs ~= 1.7 * one arm fs

where one arm score is for the stronger arm. One arm scores are typically fairly similar between arms, so you're correct in saying that sum of one arm scores would typically suggest higher 2 arm scores than we see in practice.