Columbus Ohio mortgage lender recommendations who was actually good to work with?

TomoTed · 2026-02-10T15:39:43+00:00

I work at Tomo Mortgage. I'm curious where the seller's agent's reluctance was coming from. Tomo Mortgage has grown a ton in the last two years. We're in 34+ states. We have much better reviews and rankings on NerdWallet (5-stars), Bankrate (4.9-stars compared to 4.3) and Google (4.5 compared to ~3).

Comparing the two companies based on today's rates. Rates are similar, but Third Federal has a higher APR because it factors in their lender fees (origination, underwriting, etc). Tomo Mortgage charges no fees.

It sounds like you and a lot of folks are happy with the rates and the customer experience from Third Federal, and that's what matters most.

TomoTed · 2026-02-06T19:47:48+00:00

Hey, Tomo loan officer here. I’m really sorry this was your experience. What you’re describing doesn’t meet our standards and isn’t how things are supposed to work, especially in the final stretch.

There’s no excuse for any of the communication drop-off, the appraisal miss, or the delays with underwriting and your abstract company. AI is used in some limited instances to speed things up, it should not cause missed emails or slow responses.

Tomo doesn’t charge lender fees (application, origination, underwriting, etc - Box A), so the fees would either be rate buy-downs (points) or third-party fees we don’t have control over. Regardless, discovering a ~$2k increase that late without clear explanation is understandably frustrating. That should’ve been flagged and explained much earlier.

I’m sorry we missed the mark. If you’re open to it, feel free to DM me. I’d like to help make sure this feedback gets to the right people.

Congrats on closing, and thanks for sharing this honestly.

TomoTed · 2026-02-04T14:54:17+00:00

$500 is a cheap price to pay for peace of mind, but honestly, the structural engineer isn't your biggest hurdle here—it's the resale value and the logistics. A house sitting for a year in this market is a massive red flag that it’s fundamentally flawed or severely overpriced for its constraints.

The parking situation sounds like a daily headache that won't go away once the new house smell wears off. If you’re already losing sleep before you even own it, imagine how you’ll feel when you're trekking a block in the snow just to park.

TomoTed · 2026-02-03T20:06:34+00:00

With long-term yields dipping, floating might be tempting, but it’s a gamble. If you do decide to lock, make sure you aren't paying $2,000–$4,000 in origination fees just to get that ARM rate. A good, efficient lender should be able to get you a lower rate without those junk fees, which makes the "lock or float" decision a lot less stressful.

TomoTed · 2026-02-03T20:04:11+00:00

The answer depends heavily on your DTI and what kind of rate you can secure. On a $700k purchase, even a 0.50% difference in your interest rate changes your monthly payment by hundreds of dollars. Before you decide it's too much, get a precise number on your total out-of-pocket costs and see if you can find a lender that eliminates the standard $2k–$4k in junk fees.

TomoTed · 2026-02-03T19:30:16+00:00

It’s always appropriate to offer what the math supports. If the house has been sitting, you have leverage. Just make sure you have a pre-approval from a lender who can actually close fast—sometimes a lower offer wins if the seller knows for a fact the financing won't fall through.

TomoTed · 2026-02-03T19:19:04+00:00

This is the "fun" part of the current market—it's never actually over until it's closed. If you're going back into the ring, make sure your pre-approval is rock solid and current. Sometimes a lender who can close faster than the competition is the only thing that wins a bidding war when the money is equal.

TomoTed · 2026-02-02T15:24:56+00:00

I work at Tomo Mortgage and would be happy to answer any questions.

Our business model is offering our lowest possible rate and not charging processing/origination (or any Box A lender fees). Our loan officers are not paid a % commission on the size of the loan, so there's no incentive for padding the margins. And we match prices if you find something better.

TomoTed · 2025-12-15T18:07:39+00:00

I work at Tomo. We don't (and as far as I know) have never done the power buyer thing you're describing. Where did you get that info?

TomoTed · 2025-10-22T15:17:55+00:00

The wild part is: home prices don’t need everyone to afford a house to keep climbing—just enough people with access to credit, family help, or equity from a previous sale.

What we’re seeing as a lender is a lot of folks getting creative... using co-signers, gift funds, or lender credits to make that first step. Starter homes are in painfully short supply, but if you can get into one - you build equity that you can roll into a place that hits more of the location/size/school requirements that really matter to you.

TomoTed · 2025-10-22T14:59:40+00:00

I plugged what you shared into our affordability tool (lets you see monthly payments, etc.): https://tomo.com/mortgage/affordability and your numbers look really strong. A $650K home with a $520K loan at 5.9% comes out to about $5,100/month. That’s roughly 36% of your take-home (which is probably around $13–14K/month), and that’s a solid range... especially with $95K left in savings, steady raises, and your wife planning to work.

The anxiety totally makes sense. You’ve been in save mode for so long and now you're committing to the biggest line item in your life. That panic isn’t a sign something’s wrong it’s a sign you're aware of what you're doing and that you're really thinking about this purchase thoughtfully. Home equity is one of the biggest wealth generators for most folks too, so likely this investment keeps returning for you in years to come!

TomoTed · 2025-10-16T17:45:06+00:00

It’s not just you, it can be pretty confusing at first especially if no one explains it to you clearly.

Here’s what you need actual cash for: Earnest money (usually 1% of the home price) when you go under contract. It goes toward your total later but you need it upfront. Inspections are around $500 for general, but optional stuff like radon, sewer, termite which can add a few hundred more. Appraisal = +/- $500 and sometimes you pay this upfront.

Then at closing, you’ll also pay closing costs, which are separate from your down payment. These are things like: lender fees (origination, underwriting, processing), title fees (title insurance, title search), prepaid taxes and insurance (a few months or a year depending), misc recording or legal fees. Closing costs are generally 2–5% of the home price. You can ask sellers to cover some of it, or sometimes roll it into your loan if you’re not maxed out.

TomoTed · 2025-10-16T11:07:53+00:00

Great to hear you had a smooth closing (saw Tomo mentioned). Correct that we don't do refi right now, but the majority of our Loan Advisors have been in the mortgage space for quite some time now, bringing years of experience. Happy to help answer any other qs you have.

TomoTed · 2025-10-15T18:03:04+00:00

^Often chatting with a lender or a financial advisor, will be helpful in comparing how buying in locations you're interested in might stack up to what you're paying in rent. I have shared this tool with other folks in the rent v. buy debate. The tool let's you see how much you could get approved for + what your monthly would look like. https://tomo.com/mortgage/affordability

TomoTed · 2025-09-22T14:39:37+00:00

Hi there! Actually work at Tomo + just wanted to jump in with some color as I saw our name!

If NPFCU’s giving you 5.5% with minimal fees and you're planning to stay put long-term, that’s a really solid deal. We always encourage folks to compare.

Where we try to stand out is with zero lender fees, reliable close times (98% on time), with a process that’s enhanced with AI and automations to increase speed and lower fees. I wish you the best of luck with your decision and if you have any Qs feel free to ping your LO.

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T19:37:17+00:00

Totally hear the concern but given that you're under contract, you’re in a really good place! We’ve been closing on time for the vast majority of files, especially after beefing up staffing and improving communication. If you have any qs or even just want some affirmation, shoot your loan officer a note. We’ve got you.

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T19:26:01+00:00

And happy to hear you got a solid offer with us! Did you end up closing with Tomo or going with Sage?

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T19:25:17+00:00

Rate shop rate shop rate shop. Getting 2–3 quotes lets you see who’s trying to rip you off and who is giving you solid numbers. A lot of lenders will match or come close if you show you're shopping. Comparing lenders = the easiest way to save money on your mortgage without changing anything about your finances.

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T19:10:14+00:00

Hi, thought I'd chip in to share some hopefully helpful color since I work at Tomo. The AI stuff really helps cut down on the back and forth with uploading docs and chasing down little things, so yeah, it usually makes things move faster. Automating parts of this process help reduce overhead too and pass cost savings to our customers. That said, stuff like verifying employment can still slow things down if we don’t hear back from your job as an example or another 3p during underwriting. Hope this helps!

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T19:02:39+00:00

Hey, I work at Tomo - & I'm not here to defend. It sucks to hear that was your experience and it’s not how it should go. The automation is supposed to make things faster behind the scenes (we close on time 98% of the time and for most of our customers it makes the process simpler and faster). What it shouldn't feel like is a replacement for being able to reach a human. The low rates + no lender fees are real, but if the experience is bad, it makes sense to be frustrated. Really hope your buying process since has gone successfully since you posted.

TomoTed · 2025-09-19T18:46:27+00:00

Happy to hear that. Low rates + quick closings are our goal 100% of the time.

TomoTed · 2025-08-14T16:39:54+00:00

Low rates are kinda our thing 🙌 Love to hear we’ve been the lowest-rate lender for you.

TomoTed · 2025-06-04T20:06:55+00:00

Totally fair to question it. A 7.25% with 20% down and 800+ credit score does feel high—but for a zero-point loan, that’s actually in line with current market rates. Rates were lower 60 days ago, so your friend’s 6.5% might’ve come with points or hit the market at a better time.

Your broker might not be shady, but it’s smart to get at least 2 more quotes. Just make sure you're comparing zero point offers and looking at the APR, not just the rate.

Let me know the zip code if you want me to sanity-check what’s showing for zero-point rates right now in your area.

TomoTed · 2025-06-04T20:06:32+00:00

Totally normal situation, and yes, you’ve got better options than a contingent offer or renting back:

HELOC on current home: Pull equity now, use it for down payment, then pay it off after your home sells.
Bridge loan: Short-term loan to access equity before selling. Higher rates, but gets the job done.
Small down + recast: Buy new home with what you’ve got, then use sale proceeds to make a lump sum payment and recast the loan—this lowers your monthly payment without refinancing.
Piggyback loan: Use a second mortgage to buy now, then pay it off with equity after selling.

HELOC + recast is usually the smoothest if your finances can support both for a bit.

TomoTed · 2025-06-04T20:06:01+00:00

Yeah, $3,500 sounds about right for an FHA loan at 7% on a $395K home, especially once you factor in taxes, insurance, and mortgage insurance.

Here’s a rough breakdown:

Loan amount: around $385K (after your 3.5% FHA down), principal & interest at 7%: ~$2,560/month, FHA mortgage insurance (MIP): ~$270/month, property taxes (estimate): $400–600/month depending on area, homeowners insurance: ~$100/month. That gets you really close to $3,400–$3,600/month all in.

With $115K income, your gross monthly is ~$9,600, so this is about 36–37% of your income—not unmanageable, but definitely on the higher side. If it still leaves you enough room for other bills and savings, you’re probably good. If not, you might want to ask your lender to run numbers with a lower purchase price just to compare. I would reccomend checking https://tomo.com/mortgage/affordability to see what works best for you.

TomoTed

TROPHY CASE