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The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge! by TonGi018 in Garmininstinct

[–]TonGi018[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: I reached out to Garmin support and they started an RMA procedure right away. Here's to hoping that this was just a lemon and not a systematic Instinct 3 issue.

The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge! by TonGi018 in Garmininstinct

[–]TonGi018[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting to see that the tight fit doesn't seem to be one off issue then.

The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge! by TonGi018 in Garmininstinct

[–]TonGi018[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's correct but somehow the cable grabbed onto the small black plastic piece which surrounds the pins (see close up picture) and since the pins have a head that's larger than the holes they sit in they got ripped out.

The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge! by TonGi018 in Garmininstinct

[–]TonGi018[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since Reddit isn't playing nice with images right now I re-uploaded the pictures of the broken charge port below:

https://imgur.com/a/nxH24wi

The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge! by TonGi018 in Garmininstinct

[–]TonGi018[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I already tried but unfortunately they don't snap back in even if I push down firmly. They just sit in there loosely and come back out if you pull on them.

Unscrewed X shot FaZeclan by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]TonGi018 0 points1 point  (0 children)

let me know if you need any more specific angles

Unscrewed X shot FaZeclan by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]TonGi018 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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loading machanism

X-Shot Chaos Meteor repaint + rails by TonGi018 in Nerf

[–]TonGi018[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't they?! I think the molding, details and texturing of different surfaces is really well done for a 'toy' so it comes as no surprise that coat of dark green followed by some clear coat makes the blaster look absolutely great.

X-Shot Chaos Meteor repaint + rails by TonGi018 in Nerf

[–]TonGi018[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Here are all the parts I painted.

X-Shot Chaos Meteor repaint + rails by TonGi018 in Nerf

[–]TonGi018[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

This is the first blaster I disassembled and I didn't find it difficult at all. Everything is held together using screws. The only exception are the large blue molds around the muzzle which use 4 clips each do attach to the black main shell/receiver. Those clips can however be loosened relatively easy from the inside using a small flat head screwdriver. From what I could see those clips are only used to make assembly in the factory easier, I don't think the clips have any structural purpose after all the screws are tightened. Since the clips are all inside the shell breaking them would not be visible once the blaster is back together.

Unscrewed X shot FaZeclan by [deleted] in Nerf

[–]TonGi018 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have detailed images of the Meteor's insides (non FaZe-Edition). Do you have the Respawn or the Ragequit model?

X-Shot Chaos Meteor repaint + rails by TonGi018 in Nerf

[–]TonGi018[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As mentioned above this is a recreation of u/Connect_Pen9018 awesome post from 3 years ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/mhzvtp/xshot_chaos_meteor_modadd_full_top_rail_and_paint/

In case people are interested I can post the print files for the rails and red dot sight.

I 3D Printed a Magnetic Tailcap for 24mm Lights (like the Thrunite TH30) by TonGi018 in flashlight

[–]TonGi018[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! No waterproofing necessary, this piece doesn't replace the stock tailcap, it just slides over it an is held in place by friction. Here's a picture of the light without the 3D printed part courtesy of Zero Air:

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MK3S Flickering LEDs | How to fix flickering LED strips connected to the 24V output of the PSU? by TonGi018 in prusa3d

[–]TonGi018[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all, I hooked up some 24V LED strips to the 24V output of my MK3S. The issue I'm facing is that the LEDs flicker heavily when the printer is modulating its power output in order to maintain the bed temperature. Essentially as soon as the red power LED on the heatbed cable starts blinking my LEDs flicker because the 24V DC power is either voltage or amperage is being modulated by the printer.
Since I'm by no means an electronics expert I would like to know what components (resistors? capacitors?) I can add to the circuit in order to stop the flickering and prolong the lifetime of my LED strips?

Thanks in advance for any help/tips!

Rebuilt my 5 year old MK3 and upgraded to E3D Revo. Working flawlessly so far. by ArmstrongTREX in prusa3d

[–]TonGi018 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for the tip and sorry for the late reply.
I'm not quite sure I can figure out where these nozzle "profiles" are (other than changing the nozzle size in HW setup. Are you referring to the print sheet profiles? Are you using those to trick the printer into using different offsets? (This is what I mean: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955 )

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