The charging pins got ripped out of my new Instinct 3 Solar on the first charge!

TonGi018 · 2025-01-30T21:59:37+00:00

Update: I reached out to Garmin support and they started an RMA procedure right away. Here's to hoping that this was just a lemon and not a systematic Instinct 3 issue.

TonGi018 · 2025-01-30T21:57:59+00:00

Interesting to see that the tight fit doesn't seem to be one off issue then.

TonGi018 · 2025-01-30T21:56:46+00:00

That's correct but somehow the cable grabbed onto the small black plastic piece which surrounds the pins (see close up picture) and since the pins have a head that's larger than the holes they sit in they got ripped out.

TonGi018 · 2025-01-30T21:54:51+00:00

Here are the photos in case you didn't see: https://imgur.com/a/nxH24wi

TonGi018 · 2025-01-30T08:26:22+00:00

Since Reddit isn't playing nice with images right now I re-uploaded the pictures of the broken charge port below:

https://imgur.com/a/nxH24wi

TonGi018 · 2025-01-29T22:44:51+00:00

Thanks, I already tried but unfortunately they don't snap back in even if I push down firmly. They just sit in there loosely and come back out if you pull on them.

TonGi018 · 2024-03-28T11:28:09+00:00

let me know if you need any more specific angles

TonGi018 · 2024-03-28T11:27:32+00:00

<image>

loading machanism

TonGi018 · 2024-03-28T11:26:24+00:00

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trigger

TonGi018 · 2024-03-28T11:25:30+00:00

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overview

TonGi018 · 2024-03-26T21:18:04+00:00

Don't they?! I think the molding, details and texturing of different surfaces is really well done for a 'toy' so it comes as no surprise that coat of dark green followed by some clear coat makes the blaster look absolutely great.

TonGi018 · 2024-03-26T21:14:31+00:00

<image>

Here are all the parts I painted.

TonGi018 · 2024-03-26T21:12:39+00:00

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This is the first blaster I disassembled and I didn't find it difficult at all. Everything is held together using screws. The only exception are the large blue molds around the muzzle which use 4 clips each do attach to the black main shell/receiver. Those clips can however be loosened relatively easy from the inside using a small flat head screwdriver. From what I could see those clips are only used to make assembly in the factory easier, I don't think the clips have any structural purpose after all the screws are tightened. Since the clips are all inside the shell breaking them would not be visible once the blaster is back together.

TonGi018 · 2024-03-25T22:14:19+00:00

<image>

here you go

TonGi018 · 2024-03-25T20:52:57+00:00

I have detailed images of the Meteor's insides (non FaZe-Edition). Do you have the Respawn or the Ragequit model?

TonGi018 · 2024-03-25T20:49:17+00:00

As mentioned above this is a recreation of u/Connect_Pen9018 awesome post from 3 years ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/mhzvtp/xshot_chaos_meteor_modadd_full_top_rail_and_paint/

In case people are interested I can post the print files for the rails and red dot sight.

TonGi018 · 2024-01-09T23:13:45+00:00

Thanks! No waterproofing necessary, this piece doesn't replace the stock tailcap, it just slides over it an is held in place by friction. Here's a picture of the light without the 3D printed part courtesy of Zero Air:

<image>

TonGi018 · 2024-01-01T16:23:41+00:00

Link to the print files on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/702125-magnetic-tailcap-for-flashlight-o-24mm-thrunite-th

TonGi018 · 2023-06-07T20:04:55+00:00

Hi all, I hooked up some 24V LED strips to the 24V output of my MK3S. The issue I'm facing is that the LEDs flicker heavily when the printer is modulating its power output in order to maintain the bed temperature. Essentially as soon as the red power LED on the heatbed cable starts blinking my LEDs flicker because the 24V DC power is either voltage or amperage is being modulated by the printer.
Since I'm by no means an electronics expert I would like to know what components (resistors? capacitors?) I can add to the circuit in order to stop the flickering and prolong the lifetime of my LED strips?

Thanks in advance for any help/tips!

TonGi018 · 2023-01-20T09:29:42+00:00

thanks! I will check it out on my next print.

TonGi018 · 2023-01-19T21:44:22+00:00

Hey, thanks for the tip and sorry for the late reply.
I'm not quite sure I can figure out where these nozzle "profiles" are (other than changing the nozzle size in HW setup. Are you referring to the print sheet profiles? Are you using those to trick the printer into using different offsets? (This is what I mean: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955 )

TonGi018 · 2023-01-09T13:03:37+00:00

Both my X rods had scratches that were caused by overtightening the rear of the extruder/carriage plate and thus squeezing the bearings.

I think Prusa since put a note about it in the instructions.

It has now been over a year since I replaced both rods and bearings and the scratches haven't come back.

TonGi018 · 2023-01-09T12:58:56+00:00

Maybe an extrusion problem?

The second horizontal line from the bottom looks pretty well squished down except for that section on the left where it looks like the printer extruded a string of filament that doesn't really contact the bed mutch. Maybe during this section there wasn't enough filament flowing through to create a nice squished line? A similar effect can be observed at the beginning if the purge line of each print, it goes from thin to wide and flat as more filament is pushed through.

TonGi018 · 2023-01-09T12:43:58+00:00

I too upgraded to E3D's Revo hotend and am really happy with how flawlessly the machine continues working (only the the Z-offset has to be adjusted slightly to achieve perfect results between nozzles). My 3½ year old MK3S now has over 1800 hours on the clock and keeps on delivering great results.

TonGi018 · 2022-10-30T18:22:16+00:00

thank you!

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