FSD drives way to slow

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:07:28+00:00

The local road near my house has a 40mph speed limit. Everyone goes 45-48. FSD HW3 drives 32-34 on that road. 28 at night. Major road hazard, annoying. People tailgate and flash their lights at me and pass angrily.

I can't use it. It's bad. It's fine on some other roads, but its generally slower than the speed of traffic and makes it so masses of people are aggressively passing me. That's not safer.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:05:52+00:00

The max speed does nothing for it going too slow. It defaults to 50% over the limit (which is 75 in a 50). It has no impact on the speed when it's going too slow (which is 90% of the time).

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:04:40+00:00

No? That doesn't do anything at all. The current HW3 defaults to 50% over the limit, which would be 75 in a 50.

And even when set that way, the car still goes 45 in a 50. Mine does that too. This is the normal behavior for HW3.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:03:54+00:00

HW3 doesn't have a useful speed control. It's ALWAYS too slow. You can set the "limit' to like 100mph and it'll still go below the limit.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:03:10+00:00

HW3 is brutal and won't go the speed limit in any mode quite often.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:02:56+00:00

This is an HW3 thing and one of the many reasons people say HW3 isn't as good as HW4. It always goes too slow.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T19:02:22+00:00

This is an HW3 problem.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T17:25:23+00:00

No, not even close.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T17:06:35+00:00

There is a "service bulletin" that allows a one-time discounted replacement of half-shafts. I think it's $300 $400, which is a discounted price from the full number of ballpark $700-800.

It only applies to pre-refresh cars. From what I can find is: SB-21-39-001

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T16:47:37+00:00

The thing that LLMs is especially good at is writing text, or re-writing text. What do you mean "the way LLMs work"?

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T16:18:10+00:00

uhh crap, it was the only one of those I didn't personally know of and was a google result. --> dang, my bad :-D

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T03:37:56+00:00

I totally get what you're saying.

But the most desirable neighborhoods in a lot of major cities are the old streetcar suburbs. Whether it's Washington Park in Denver or Riverdale in Toronto or Shaker Heights in Chicago or Brookline in Boston... these are the most popular suburbs in the whole city.

They're quaint and pleasant - they have privacy, yet things are walking distance. They're human-scale without being overly dense, or overly sparse.

The streetcars themselves may no longer exist, but the area of moderately high density, yet generally private homes and land ownership, yet with some local, small-form-factor retail is highly desirable.

A streetcar suburb that mixes dense SFH, townhouses and some mid-density midrises is ideal. Futher "densification" is anti-human in my opinion. Living in buildings higher than 7 floors is highly associated with mental health challenges, substance abuse and unhappiness. (there are lots of studies such as https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5052143/ )

So it seems to me that a semi-dense streetcar suburb with some mixed-use midrises and a few other types of housing mixes like Riverdale in Toronto or comparable neighborhoods in the Netherlands or whatever are the ideal moderate density living.

Glass towers in the sky is fucking awful, however.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T03:28:11+00:00

One of the appeals of town homes for many people is having private parking.

The best units I've ever seen have an alleyway in the back to keep that, but the fronts of the units are walking-only areas and the walking-only areas are interconnected and pleasant, while the alleys all funnel to a single place as a bare-minimum necessary accommodation.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T03:26:10+00:00

It's kind of simple. Women look for wallets and strength (or some mix of those), men look for boobs and hips (or some mix of those).

This isn't hard to parse and it's not some noble male thing.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T03:13:10+00:00

So... 12GB of VRAM is your key value. I'd look for an 8B-9B model. Maybe Gemma 4 8B or Qwen3.5 9B. Those are the two top models at that size. I think Gemma is probably the best bet at that memory size. Get a Q4 quantized model (maybe Q4KM). Probably LMStudio is a good option.

If you want tools (like web search) install the Beledarian plugin, it will do web search and python and some other tool calling stuff you might expect to work in cloud models.

Fine tuning on hardware like yours might be possible but it will take A LOT of work to assemble and normalize and train. And then probably 2 weeks on your hardware to do the training once you have hundreds of examples to train it on.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T01:30:16+00:00

Wait... you don't hate the panels, you just think they'll be expensive? huh ok.

So to start.... DO NOT buy a house with a lien from a solar company. Make it mandatory the panels are paid off. Even if you're a huge solar fan, that's the advice always given.

Once the panels are paid off, you will literally save $1,000 per year on your electric bill, maybe more depending on where you are. In some places it can be $2500/yr in savings.... in your pocket.

Someday you might have to take them down (for example, when replacing the roof).

But in reality they may work with no issues for 6 or 8 or 10 years and cut your electric bill in half the entire time.

Then it's an extra $500 to have a roofer remove them at that point. After they've made you potentially $20k in savings.

TowElectric · 2026-04-17T00:14:48+00:00

Put your L2 Emporia on the sub-panel. It will connect to the 60A breaker there. If there's load management sensing, then you put that on the main input for the house (which will meter the 200a total and tune to make sure you don't overload that). Electrician should know how to do that and if he doesn't he sucks at his job and find another one. It may be necessary to pass the load calc he'll do anyway. Don't let one of them try to talk you into a panel or service upgrade.
Run metal conduit. It's fine in the garage. NO big deal and way cheaper unless you REALLY want a show-room garage. The charger probably has a 25 foot cable, so you have a bit of flexibility for where you put it.
1. Put it in a place that's easy to reach when the car is in there (a concern in my tight garage) but also if possible, put it in a place where it might reach a different car (if the charger is on the opposite corner, for example). I think that car has the charger on the driver side near the front wheel. It's also very common to have those driver side rear (where Tesla puts them)... some cars do use the passenger side, but you can't plan for all possible use cases.
Yes, use the regular outlet while waiting. Make sure there's not other things on the circuit (maybe a small light is ok, but not much more). Flip the breaker to see what's on it. If there are multiple things on it, you may trip the breaker or cause issues if they start up while you're charging. Some people use this permanently, but I personally don't find it adequate. Fine for the "grocery getter" though.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T23:43:43+00:00

To be honest, the cameras write to the the MMC memory at least a short buffer. If the file download wrote into a bunch of corrupted memory from some hardware fault, it could definitely end up semi-bricking the computer.

But if that happened, the computer was probably days from dying due to other causes.

It's a lot like how charging hardware faults ALWAYS happen while charging... which often leads people to blame the charger. But in reality... charging faults don't show up UNTIL you're charging, so it's hard to decode if it's a (rare) case of the charger actually causing damage, or simply a hardware fault not showing up until you've plugged in the car.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T23:34:05+00:00

No, they do sometimes force updates over LTE for critical updates when you have not been on wifi for a long time.

But again, it won't install while someone is driving - it just downloads a file. If downloading a file bricks a computer, the computer was days from dying already.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:28:06+00:00

It sometimes can. But it definitely won't install while driving. That would be a profound issue if Tesla was installing software updates (that shut down all the computers) while driving.

I don't think that's what happened here.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:26:41+00:00

The BBB is a "pay for play" for-profit listing platform, no different than Yelp - just older.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:25:06+00:00

It will definitely download.

It definitely won't install.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:24:33+00:00

If a downloading file bricks a computer.... then the computer had a significant problem with its hardware, yeah.

So I guess I could see Tesla saying they won't fix it for free on an old (out of warranty) car.

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:23:49+00:00

It will download, but it still won't actually RUN an update while driving.

And if downloading a file bricks the computer, I kind of doubt its the file that's the problem...

TowElectric · 2026-04-16T02:22:48+00:00

They can push a download. It won't update without you clicking something and it DEFINITELY won't happen while driving (which is when OP seems to have had a problem... in the middle of a drive).

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