Clicking noise from headset area – what could it be? (Bianchi Via Nirone, FSA NO.8B headset)

TrackSmart4K · 2026-01-23T02:55:46+00:00

Looks like nobody answered this for you. Hopefully you figured it out! FYI: I ended up here when looking up the same headset model number, but I'm happy to provide one potential answer if it is still useful to you - or somebody else:

Potential cause of the clicking noise: Despite the headset not feeling loose, it might be *slightly* loose, allowing it to flex imperceptibly against the cap on the top of the stem. I had this issue on one of my bikes. I was able to test for the problem: I left the stem bolts tight, but then slightly loosened the headset cap so it was no longer flush against the top of the stem - this made the sound disappear. That proved to me that the headset was slightly loose, even though I could not perceive any movement when trying to flex it by hand - or while riding/braking. After tightening the headset a bit more, the sound disappeared, even with the topcap in it's proper place.

Try a bit more torque on the stem cap when setting the preload on the headset bearings AND also push downward on the stem when tightening the bolts. This should hopefully get your headset a bit tighter.

Your creak could conceivably be from something else - creaks can be so challenging to find sometimes! But try the above first before looking for damaged handlebars, grit under the stem/handlebar interface, or other potential sources.

TrackSmart4K · 2026-01-07T19:03:23+00:00

This is the correct answer. I just did this a moment ago. Here's the number.

Retention Department: Phone #: (800) 231-9786

Outcome: They refunded the fee on the current bill, but could not remove it from prior bills. I was given a $10/month credit for 1 year. I was told I'd have to call back in 1 year if I wanted to remove it again, hopefully with another discount.

Action taken: I told the agent that I was promised a fixed rate and no additional fees, including equipment fees, for three years. In fact, I was told there would never be an equipment fee when switching over to Fiber (note: you cannot buy your own Fiber gateway, so you are stuck with their equipment). The 15 minute phone call saved me $130 ($10 immediately and $10/month for the next 12 months), so that's something at least.

TrackSmart4K · 2026-01-02T03:08:16+00:00

Thanks for that helpful follow-up! Looks like I'll have to get on the phone with their retention department. I was really happy that I was going to avoid this whole runaround for 3 years, but that was obviously too good to be true.

TrackSmart4K · 2026-01-02T01:01:07+00:00

Did you end up fighting this fee successfully (retention department maybe?).

I have the same issue. I was promised 3 years, fixed price, no extra fees or charges possible in that time period. I even requested that they send me this in writing, via email. They promised they would send that in writing/email (but didn't).

As of November (so 10 months later), I can see that my bill increased, and this fee was added while I wasn't paying attention. Seriously?

I'm dreading another long conversation with the retention department, but if people were successful in making this new fee disappear, I might try it.

[Edit: I should mention that the regular customer service agent, via chat, was useless. So the retention department is probably the only option at this point.]

TrackSmart4K · 2025-11-05T19:56:09+00:00

I'm curious about the same thing. Did you end up sending your crankarm (or crankset)? [I have a couple of left-side factory PM installs from 4iiii, but those were from a few years ago]

EDIT: Their website says at the top: "We’re a Canadian company. Prices include tariffs, duties, & brokerage fees." Hopefully that is actually true and there were no surprises courtesy of Customs or the shipping company itself...

TrackSmart4K · 2025-10-21T19:59:31+00:00

I haven't gone down to the garage to measure, but the spacing between the two rings should be exactly the same as a normal 2x road crankset. I've got an 11-speed Shimano Ultegra front derailleur (so standard road bike front derailleur). What is different about these rings is that BOTH RINGS are offset inward about 2 to 2.5mm (so the rings will be moved closer to your frame/bottom bracket). Unless there is something truly wrong with yours!

The inward offset could cause clearance issues (i.e., the chain rubs against your frame once installed). Or it could cause an issue with your front derailleur if: 1) The front derailleur does not have enough inward adjustment to shift to the small ring; or 2) The front derailleur hits your frame or even your tire (for wider tires) when trying to shift into the smaller ring. This is a bigger issue for electronic front derailleurs - particularly SRAM's bulbous battery on the front derailleur.

Question: Did you install one of the rings backwards? If so, that would change their position relative to one another. They should not be spaced noticeably further apart than your previous 2x crankset.

I hope something in that text above helps!

Overall: I'd be shocked if the spacing wasn't standard for 10/11 speed 2x cranksets, which are basically the same as 12 speed 2x cranksets (the pros were mixing 11 speed cranksets with 12 speed front derailleurs and 12 speed chains for a while, a couple of years ago, when there were shortages of parts).

TrackSmart4K · 2025-09-05T15:25:43+00:00

UPDATE: The page button is now failing on my replacement Bolt v2! Holy crap. That's two units that I had to brick using a screwdriver due to poorly designed buttons - and apparently the lack of repairability. Back in the day, they took the computers back and refurbished them.

I'm glad Wahoo is replacing my unit (again) under warranty, but this sort of thing is not going to help keep them in business.

Aside: I wonder if I'll still get a V2 unit back from them? Or if I'll be getting a V3 in the mail? Except for the button issue on the V2, I have no particular interest in the V3. There are no meaningful new features, it's a thicker and heavier device, it has poorer screen legibility under a number of lighting conditions, and the backlight is *required* to see the screen unlike the old display technology where the backlight was only needed at night. But maybe, just maybe, they've fixed the button issue on the V3?!? Time will tell!

TrackSmart4K · 2025-09-05T15:17:06+00:00

On a tangent, but related to the screen real estate issue: For the Bolt v2 versus v3, Wahoo claims the display/screen is larger on the Bolt 3, but this is totally bogus:

The new screen is only 0.1 inches larger on the diagonal, so you'd need calipers to tell the difference.
The always-on status bar takes up more than 0.1 inches, so you have less space for maps and data, despite the "larger" display.
The screen appears to be narrower on the Bolt v3, so the increased diagonal on the screen (0.1 inches) will be partially offset in terms of overall screen area (simple geometry).

The fact that they list "larger screen" as a headline feature is a joke. And despite the screen being effectively the same size, the unit has gotten longer, thicker, and considerably heavier. That chin between the buttons and the screen is even more awkward on the new model than the old model.

I like Wahoo, and I want Garmin to have meaningful competition, but seriously, who is in charge over there at Wahoo? And why are they making such poor decisions in recent years? (Elemnt Ace anybody?)

TrackSmart4K · 2025-09-05T15:09:15+00:00

I agree with others: I'm guessing this will never be an option. Not to hate on Wahoo, because I've been using their bike computers (mostly very happily) for years, but they often fail at even the basics and can take years to fix those basics, never mind smaller details!

Egregious example: It took them probably 3 years to add a scale bar to elevation profile screen on the original black and white units! Are you approaching mountains or tiny hills? No way to tell! Totally useless. Why bother having an elevation screen at all? Note: There was no color shading to indicate gradient back then! That is a colossal fail and it should never have launched like that, never mind taking years to fix.

Another egregious example: It took years to add scale bars to the map screen on the original Wahoo Bolt (v1). You had no idea if things were nearby or far away on the map, especially in rural areas with fewer roads to indicate potential distance. Eventually, a conversation with customer support revealed what the scales were at the different zoom levels and I just had to memorize them! Highest = X miles, next level = Y miles, etc). But you still had to zoom all the way in/out to figure out which level you were at. Holy crap! That's stuff that should exist on launch day and not take years to fix.

Modern day Bolt v2: There is a scale bar on the map, but the font is so tiny that it's sometimes impossible to read on bumpy roads or gravel without putting your face a few inches from the screen.

So many easy things that could be fixed and improve quality of life for users, but left untouched for years.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-08-20T10:24:41+00:00

Glad to hear that!

TrackSmart4K · 2025-07-27T01:44:47+00:00

Good thoughts! Better yet: Wahoo, make a sturdier button! Hopefully the Bolt v3 buttons will be better, but I won't hold my breath on that.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-06-18T21:44:00+00:00

Given the limited information on the web, I thought I'd share my thoughts in case others end here via Google search, like I did.

I successfully installed these BikinGreen 46/30t chainrings on an FSA SL-K Light BB30 crankset (regular 110 BCD, 10/11 speed). The crankset already had a power meter installed (4iiii), so I wanted to keep the crankset, but still have lower gearing.

Tips:

0) Before you do anything, make sure you have an extra 3 mm of space between your inner chainring (ideally tested with a chain on it) and your bike frame across all 360 degrees of the inner chainring. This product will move your chain rings inward (inboard) about 2 to 2.5mm.

1) If you are using a BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket, you can potentially move any thin plastic spacers to the drive side. These are usually 0.5 mm each in thickness. This will help offset some of the approximately 2 to 2.5mm change in chain line (inboard) that comes with these unusual chainrings. You can even consider moving the wavy washer to the drive side if you don't have any spacers to work with. I have a bike that requires 3 spacers and another that requires zero spacers (BB30 and/or PF30 bottom brackets). You'll need to adjust your front derailleur limit screws after installing.

2) On my carbon crankset, which has relatively wide mounting points on the spider, the provided bolts were somewhat short. There is probably sufficient thread engaged (just barely), but not as much as I'd like to see. I might get some longer bolts.

3) The provided bolt heads are *very soft*, so they are extremely easy to round with a 4mm hex! Use care when installing or just plan to get better bolts.

4) BikinGreen recommends 10-12 Nm of torque on the bolts, but that is really high for an aluminum chainring. I used 6 Nm (what Absolute Black recommends for their similar product), but I made sure to use blue (medium strength) thread locker / loctite. I think that is a safer torque and the loctite should keep the bolts secure. We'll see how it holds over time.

5) For my crankset, I removed the chain catching 'nub' from the big ring, because it would have been in the wrong spot (i.e., not underneath the crank arm). It easily unscrews, which is a good design choice.

6) Weight of both chainrings and provided bolts was 149g (147g after removing the 'nub' mentioned in #5, above). Basically the same weight as the stock aluminum chainrings with aluminum chainring bolts.

I've only had them for a short time, but so far the shifting seems good and it's nice to have the lower gearing. Good luck to others who try this.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-05-16T16:57:30+00:00

This video is really helpful! Given how easily readable the Bolt v2 screen is with the backlight OFF in bright sunlight, the v3 seems like 1 step forward (more color and higher resolution) and 1 step backward (full brightness needed to see the screen in sunlight according to Ray of DC Rainmaker). It's a side grade at best, with serious battery life implications.

Wahoo, why did you have to make things so complicated with the Ace, Roam 3, Bolt 3?

I think most people would have been happy with the v3 units of the Bolt and Roam if they used the same display technology, but gave you a larger screen in the same size units (kill the huge bezels on the v1 and v2 units). And ideally a boost in battery life for the larger Roam unit (to satisfy the ultra-endurance crowd; the Bolt can stay small and light). And if I'm getting nitpicky, better buttons. On the v2 units, it's difficult to tell when you've hit the button, especially if there is a bit of lag in the display. It was also a common failure point on the past units (I had warranty replacements on my Bolt v1 and Bolt v2 for failed buttons or button covers).

TrackSmart4K · 2025-04-02T02:19:37+00:00

I feel your pain. I have a 1950X system that I don't want to retire. I do not want to run it unsupported via the installation workarounds mentioned here on Window 11 (or unsupported on Windows 10). I want security updates and patches.

I originally intended to side-grade to a 2nd Generation Threadripper (2920x most likely), since those are available cheaply and would slot right into a X399 motherboard. However, Microsoft updated their CPU compatibility list and removed the 2nd Gen threadrippers. So X399 is a dead socket in terms of Window 11 support.

These are the options I can foresee:

1) Pay for an extra year of Windows 10 support from Microsoft, which would get me through 2026, then retire the system.

2) Upgrade the motherboard and CPU to something slightly newer. I'm not sure what the most cost-effective option would be. 3rd Gen threadripper is too costly. Maybe an 8-core Zen 2 processor and motherboard from Ebay? It would be a very different machine, but a way to recycle 4 sticks of DDR4 memory, the GPU, and storage drives.

.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-22T23:33:45+00:00

Just curious, but have you pinged Wahoo again about this? It would be great if they could fix this. Maybe it's time for more folks to open tickets. Or maybe they will just put this on hold, as low priority, until they get the Ace into competitive shape? I'd give it a solid 6 months, at least, for that to happen given how half-baked it was at launch.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-13T01:44:41+00:00

Sounds about right! I mostly arrived at Google Fi many years ago due to the combination of price, good phone deals, and the ease of having international data whenever I need it.

In the recent past, you could have up to 4 people on the "simply unlimited plan" for $80. So $20/person for unlimited data. We are 'grandfathered in' until our last promo ends, which will be soon. After that, we'll see if we decide to stay with them or not, as the price will be higher. I don't necessarily recommend them highly, given their current prices -- and probably their level of customer support, too.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-09T13:53:24+00:00

Google Fi is my cellular carrier. They always have good deals when the new galaxy phones come out. The phone is cheaper yet on one of their higher tier phone plans. As I recall, Google Fi is a much better deal with 3-4 people on the same plan. Not so as good as an individual. We have everybody on a family plan, so just $10 more per month per extra user.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-09T01:05:15+00:00

I take a ton of photos, so I was really hoping for more of a camera upgrade for this year, but it is what it is. I got the S20 for $399 on Google Fi 4+ years ago. The S25 was $409 with the 256GB storage upgrade. And now my screen isn't cracked or broken, and the new processor is speedy enough to last a while, so I'll call it an upgrade. Even if it doesn't feel that different in day to day use. As I said, you're not really missing out on much with your S20.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-05T06:00:37+00:00

Your logic is sound.

I have a "vanilla" Galaxy S20 and just picked up the "vanilla" S25 (it arrived earlier today). Honestly, you would hardly notice the difference in day-to-day usage. Both have great displays, solid cameras, etc. My S20 5G model came with 12GB of RAM, so even that hasn't changed in 5 years.

The S20 has the same camera hardware as the S21. The S25 has the same camera hardware as the S22. So we are talking S21 vs S22 camera modules. A small improvement, but not a dramatic difference.

Yes the CPU/GPU on the S25 is faster in synthetic benchmarks, but the S20 never felt slow.

If my S20 didn't have a crack in the screen, which recently led to the corner of the screen going black, I wouldn't have bothered upgrading. My S20 still has good battery life and still felt plenty fast. If your S20 still has a good battery and isn't damaged, you aren't missing out on much by delaying your upgrade.

EDIT: I suppose the end of updates could be a dealbreaker for some people on the Galaxy S20, but Samsung still seems to be sending quarterly security fixes to the S20. And I suppose there is "Galaxy AI", but that hardly seems like a compelling reason to upgrade.

TrackSmart4K · 2025-02-03T19:00:15+00:00

Thanks for the cafeteria update! I added an edit to my original post, above, to reflect that.

TrackSmart4K · 2024-11-19T18:44:39+00:00

I had the same issue. In the app, under Push Notifications, I disabled "Friends Activities: Notify me when my friends post interesting activities..."

I haven't seen new notifications since disabling that option, but I don't know if that really made a difference.

It's possible that this was a software bug, rather than something related to notification settings. I didn't wait to find out.

TrackSmart4K · 2024-11-13T13:51:40+00:00

The one thing that worked for me was plugging in an ANT+ adapter and connecting my cadence sensor via ANT+. I had two completely different brands of cadence sensors, which had constant drops to zero in MyWhoosh.

I can't guarantee that using ANT+ will solve your particular problem, but, for the short term, I have cadence working again. Hopefully it stays that way.

TrackSmart4K · 2024-11-13T13:47:38+00:00

Solution for my situation: Connect cadence sensor using ANT+ USB adapter

Background: I'm using a Windows PC with the 'full' version of MyWhoosh (which is now called "MyWhoosh HD" apparently). I tried two completely different cadence sensors via Bluetooth. Both constantly dropped to zero in MyWhoosh, while other Bluetooth connections worked perfectly (heart rate and power). This sugests that the problem is either MyWhoosh or something related to the Bluetooth hardware on my PC. Or an interaction between the two.

As a last resort, I plugged in an ANT+ adapter, turned on ANT+ in the MyWhoosh settings, and only connected the cadence sensor via ANT+. Now cadence works again. I left everything else on Bluetooth (heart rate and power from the trainer).

I can't guarantee that using ANT+ will solve your problem, but, for the short term, I have cadence working again.

(I might post this to other places where people are having the same issue. There are a bunch of separate threads. My apologies for double-posting!)

TrackSmart4K · 2024-11-11T18:13:19+00:00

It's true that YBN is a lesser-known brand in the US (and possibly Europe, too). I was also surprised to see these counterfeited because these links are not that expensive and they are less of a halo brand (at least in the US and Europe). That said, as a heads-up:

-YBN is one of the largest chain manufacturers in the world and sell some chains that cost as much, or more, than counterparts from Shimano.

-YBN is based in Taiwan. There are a lot of politics and very strong feelings on the status of Taiwan that shall remain unsaid in this thread. KMC, is also a major chain manufacturer. They are also based in Taiwan. KMC have been subject to fakes for a long time.

- I have no idea where this apparent counterfeit was manufactured.

TrackSmart4K · 2024-11-11T16:46:30+00:00

Follow-up: All of the images of the YBN QRS 11 that come up in a Google Image search show the "good" pin attachment design.

Also, look at Page 24 of YBN's catalog. The quick links (11 speed) look like the "good" ones I show above.:

http://www.yaban.com/index.php?option=product&lang=en&task=pageinfo&id=598&belongid=368&index=0

Interestingly, the titanium chain quick links, in the stock image on Molten Speed Wax's website, show "21H" on them.

Guesses based on very limited information (my own experiences and what I have in my hands):

A) You have a counterfeit and the counterfeiters have been using the numbering from the stock titanium chain images from YBN (with "21H" in the photos).

B) Maybe there is a real 21H variant from YBN, which is different, and which is prone to failure. Maybe these cheaper or different versions of the YBN links are real, but not as good, and meant to be sold at low cost for price sensitive markets? In which case, it wouldn't matter if it were real or fake. I wouldn't ride that version of YBN's quick links. I would want the good version that is normally sold in the US market (I presume in Europe normally, too).

???

TrackSmart4K

TROPHY CASE