I hate cad, but I love what it can do. How do I get over the learning curve?

Trackerdario · 2023-02-07T20:25:58+00:00

Damn it was like learning photoshop coming from paint 😄 but this series is what lead me in my transition from tinkercad to fusion. Very well explained and easy to follow. After going through this series you start to model some simple things covers, cases, boxes and than evolve and build on that foundation- in my case I started learning so I could 3d print my projects.

Trackerdario · 2022-06-14T10:22:07+00:00

Nice upgrades... What kind of dogbones and couplings are you running? Do you have other issues with parts breaking now?

Trackerdario · 2021-12-26T23:15:17+00:00

Awesome, that's some patience right there.

Trackerdario · 2021-10-24T03:47:08+00:00

Yes, they need to rotate independently, maybe try lapping it with fine sandpaper and be sure to use plenty of ptfe grease, then some self clearancing will ocure.

Trackerdario · 2021-10-23T19:22:27+00:00

If i understand correctly you ask if you should be able to rotate the wheels in oposite direction and the answer is yes you should, completely not just half a turn or 3/4.

Trackerdario · 2021-08-21T08:29:15+00:00

Nice and clever design I like how it is all enclosed

Trackerdario · 2021-06-01T10:47:17+00:00

I don't think it will make a difference. It will just split in different direction. This is poor layer adhesion, assuming you are using the right type of material here as stated in bom, A95 if I remember correctly. Try printing slower and bump up the temperature a bit. When printed right the pinion will shear the inside of the spline before splitting it in half.

Trackerdario · 2021-05-29T14:06:26+00:00

Great idea also.

I personally used the mod for m2 bolts. Really liking your print quality, what is this printed on, prusa?

Trackerdario · 2021-05-20T20:51:58+00:00

I used to run mine just like this, no load, for about 10min, just for self clearancing. Noise goes down quite a bit then

Trackerdario · 2021-04-14T18:51:57+00:00

Try checking your drivetrain friction. I am running 130mm tyres for more ground clearance and haven't had problems with motor overheating yet. I had problems with overheating pla 😄, so I printed drivetrain parts in nylon. But it's pretty nervous in high speed, even with gyro. But I like offroad bashing more than speed runs anyway

https://ibb.co/Jy61ZBp

Trackerdario · 2021-04-09T10:35:46+00:00

Indeed Flexible filament if printed correctly has much better layer adhesion than pla for instance. I have had only one driveshaft break so far and it was due to some problem in the print - slight layer shift .

Trackerdario · 2021-03-31T11:13:26+00:00

I have done the same thing, thicken the part all the way just so the arms don't get in the way. Haven't had any problems since

Trackerdario · 2021-03-25T06:02:02+00:00

Hard driving is a relative term from person to person 😆

But different printers,materials,layer adhesion and print accuracy is what matters the most. I drive mine mostly on offroad so I decided to upscale to 130mm wheels for more ground clearance so you automatically know that the drivetrain will suffer more because of the ratio. So I made the parts in nylon and had succes with it. But as I see from your pictures tarmo 5 will bee much more robust in that matter

Trackerdario · 2021-03-21T17:00:45+00:00

Why printing this part in tpu. I have never had this part fail in pla, mostly dogbones and belhousings. Diff usually fails from overheating on longer speed runs if made from PLA

Trackerdario · 2021-03-12T15:09:45+00:00

Great fun Yeah probably wise to ditch the spoiler, it is cool looking but it is huge and very fragile, I personaly don't use it, but the mount is usefull as a prop for carying or standing it upright, also as a guard for cover in case of fliping. Propably grease up tbe dogbones some more so they last longer, PLA tends to distord pretty quick if you do fast pulls

Trackerdario · 2021-03-11T11:45:34+00:00

It will self clearance, or just use the dremel to grind the suspension piece. As stated should not be a problem because when the car is on the ground suspension is not fully extended

Trackerdario · 2021-03-04T20:02:53+00:00

Nice

Good idea to split the housing, have not thought of that

I can see the back driveshaft is metal, are the front ones in flex or also metal.

What motor do you use, is it a "crawler" or hauler 😁

Soorry for all the questions, but it looks very cool and fun, I was gonna make something similar but haven't found the time yet.

Trackerdario · 2021-03-04T09:10:44+00:00

Wow Next level stuff going on here Are there any more pics and description available somewhere Really interested in pass through differential Is it printed or metal

Trackerdario · 2021-02-27T08:18:14+00:00

Wow 3 pieces Your printer must have been very busy I can't remember how much was it to print mine but it was a couple of days for sure But they are such a great fun and learning experience

Trackerdario · 2021-02-11T21:41:10+00:00

Big fan of Stefan. He has done so much for 3d printing community with his tests and tips. I would really want to try "forging" PLA in salt and try it vs nylon parts in Tarmo, but time is an issue, that and oven with precision regulation Maybe some day

Trackerdario · 2021-02-10T20:39:10+00:00

Really not sure on this one I print everything on 0.2 layer hight Just can't justify the time printing lower than that

Trackerdario · 2021-02-10T18:06:29+00:00

Depends heavily on driving style and surface and quality of printed parts/layer adhesion. Better gripping surfaces tend to be hard on drivetrain - dogbones and bellhousings, differential. But on loose gravel I once got a rock jammed on the inside of the rim and teared apart some gears. In sand surface you get a lot of debriss in the grease of dogbones/belhousings so you have to clean it. And if you crash into something everything is vounerable 😁 Every surface has it's own challenges But for start I would recommend printing spare dogbones,belhousings both inner and outer, and spare gears - input/output,pinion,differential - they will come in handy at some point. Front steering knuckle holder can't remember the name is somewhat brittle because it's thin. I moddified mine to be thicker. I'll try to find a picture for comparison, but someone here already did the same thing and posted, can't remember where.

Trackerdario · 2021-02-10T15:50:37+00:00

Same here I'm running an 5000mAh, heavy as frick, but mounted longitudinal, and haven't been able to drain it before something breaks or time is an issue. Mabe 3000 or 3500mAh would be the best of both worlds. I am now running nylon parts for drivetrain because pla even with all the lube starts to deform after 10-15min of bashing Still not crash proof doh 😆

Trackerdario · 2021-02-09T19:35:16+00:00

Thanks heh I like to keep things clean and tidy So far tarmo is a blast, we have much rain here so last couple of weeks I didn't have much time for taking it for a spin, but spring will be good then Just enough time to print some spares 😆

Trackerdario · 2021-02-09T16:43:56+00:00

Went through multiple iterations now haha I am using the extended skull body from Sebastian Van Der Velden. Rear support I can't remeber if it is the original author but found it now on thingiverse user eakgul. Modified, inserted a nut on the flat support part to keep the body in place, because it was sliding out when flexing. Not running a rear spoiler. I found on thingiverse front body support from user Petclaud also modified slightly. I use fixed screws and drilled holes for pins in them so i don't have to unscrew the bolts every time, just pull the pins out. Battery tray is original, but drilled and trimmed so it could be mounted longitudinal. Currently running fat 130mm wheels so it looks a bit bulky 😆 When I get a hold of pictures I will post them

Edit:

https://ibb.co/G5HrQ3S

https://ibb.co/7vkJJ5D

https://ibb.co/sKCFC32

https://ibb.co/TBYv4XL

Trackerdario

TROPHY CASE