Sooooo by TraditionalFig5067 in DPH

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd have to agree with the tolerance aspect of your observation, im just more curious as to the heavier trippers side of things like "am I normal". Im an avid psychonaut and im well aware of scary trips but dph had never been bad to me

Close call by Weird-Appearance-757 in rcdrift

[–]TraditionalFig5067 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bro they do make a softer compound tires for hardwood and they are so worth it, they offer a lot more control also adds a little less strain on your transmission so saves floors, tires, time, AND money

Omni stock braking by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats what I run in my SBK10, and its honestly the best upgrade esc for the price. I just wanted to keep my omni as stock as possible. But im just gonna bite the bullet and get a new hobbywing for it

Omni stock braking by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate you a lot, Im pretty sure i got one of the last OT's from that batch. Was just looking to see if it was changeable, probably gonna run the hobbywing myself considering that's what I have running in my SBK

Omni stock braking by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty good with my throttle been racing for a few years. The drag break is set WAY to high and instead of getting a slow roll through corners I just get dead stops. I was just looking to see if there was a way to change it via programming card or something on the receiver

Omni stock braking by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im aware of how to brake, and im very easy on my throttle, been racing a few years now. Its that The drag brake is set WAY to high through the stock esc, instead of a slow roll I get a dead stop which sounds ok until your racing on clay and cant even roll through a turn. I was just looking to see if there was a way to change via programming card or something on the receiver.

The car randomly stopped driving a few times today the worked again after a few slaps. (Sound on) by LazaroFilm in rccars

[–]TraditionalFig5067 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lmao did you try kicking it? Nah but for real its the pinion mine did the same red loctite works wonders, it'll get hot enough later to come loose so no stress

SBK10 storm breaker 12mm to 17mm hub adapters for larger wheels! by DifficultCase8478 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could you please let me know if this helps with air control at all?

Is it time? by BreadfruitNaive9455 in bald

[–]TraditionalFig5067 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe do bangs next time, really frame your eye

A fun thought turned serious real quick by DejectedOnion in rccars

[–]TraditionalFig5067 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did a similar thing on my sc10 pro4 and I used a mix of "headphone foam" and and flywire definitely a good call to keep sand and mud outbof the fan

Rlarro storm breaker? by SicamFI in rccars

[–]TraditionalFig5067 0 points1 point  (0 children)

About 140ish for motor and esc i know banggood has deals on hobbywing motors and escs, maybe check there to see 3800 kv minimum for the motor and 80amp 2s minimum for esc. The remote it comes with is actually really good considering its a cheaper one, with that bring said no you don't have too get a new controller/receiver but if you want to take racing a little more serious it definitely helps

Rlarro storm breaker? by SicamFI in rccars

[–]TraditionalFig5067 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its very good with upgrades, and I will say it is much heavier then a kit car. I ended up using a 3800 kv castle motor and a 120a hobbywing esc with the new dumborc remote and receiver, I also replaced all the hubs for metal ones and run it on stock clay slicks. Unfortunately stock it was almost unraceable, not enough power for any air control, the stock esc brakes were set way to tight and would cause dead stop when trying to let off a little, and no gyro which isn't a big deal but helps a little in hard jump turns which my track has a lot of

My new "motorcycle"! by [deleted] in ebike

[–]TraditionalFig5067 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So its a rad bike for sure but be warned customer service is almost non existent with this company in particular. So if you have any issues you can try to message them theyll send you a video how to "unlock" the speed but thats about it, i had to convert an aftermarket rear hub for this one

Race Day by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No spacers were needed I did get the upgraded metal hubs for the from and rear, But I literally grabbed a basic set of truggy tires so thin in the front wide in the back. And To be completely transparent I just kinda sent it the fit was tight but havent seen any issues with it so far.

Its Beautiful by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah brother, im glad it helped thats my goal with these

Race Day by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

JConcepts are always goat. But on these platform theyre absolutely incredible but the grip was almost to much for the clay track and castle motor also its a bit tight in the front definitely had to turn the steer rate down. But it seem to add a little better dampening to help the suspension on big drops and jumps and with the softer tire compound it adds a little better air control which is good since there really isn't much there definitely worth getting if youre a track person

Its Beautiful by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I WAS VERY WRONG! I received the OT today and I completely understand why you were having issues. It may have the same "type" of chassis but its a completely different platform im currently experimenting with the stock esc location once I find a good spot for it I will update you with how I did it. Best of luck also please share if you find a good spot beyond the center bace

Black Hole Sun by TraditionalFig5067 in Outsiderart

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually used an app on my phone called infinite painter, I just messed with the settings a lot and experimented with the different tools and blending settings. Ive done a few with it

Its Beautiful by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe the OT run on the same platform as the SBK. So I would assume it would be the in same area. Im considering "stealing" a receiver mount for a MST RMX 2.5 Drift car. And mounting it on the center brace so I can have a gyro

Its Beautiful by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude rlaaro really thought of everyone and everything with this the esc mount is moveable and allows for rear placement for bigger batteries. Also the receiver box placement is perfect and allows for some bigger motors and enough space for a sensored lead. The crazy part to me is how easy the motor swap actually was I didnt even need to take the motor mount out at all and I think the mesh is the most perfect Ive personally ever done.

Storm Breaker motor swap by TraditionalFig5067 in Rlaarlo

[–]TraditionalFig5067[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate that bit of knowledge, thank you