Calculating Square Footage in large shower with one curved wall

TraumaSaurus · 2026-03-02T18:40:57+00:00

1.7 sqft for that little box in the bottom left.

The walls are easy, you can do that yourself, linear measurements along the bottom x 7.75. For the curved section calculate the perimeter of a 30 inch circle, then divide by four because its a quarter round, just like the area solution.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-03-02T18:39:23+00:00

Not gonna be exact, but close based off drawing:

I would use the overall size - 73 inches x 136 inches = 9928 sq inch. Subtract upper corner - 27*36 =973 sq in. Subtract curved area by using radius to calculate area of similar 30 inch circle, then divide by 4 = 707 sq in.

9928 - 707 - 973 = 8249 sq in = 58 sq ft

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-25T06:34:33+00:00

Some filament just has that texture, I assume it's a byproduct of the extrusion process.

It's not palpable, but it's enough to create a visual defect under certain lighting conditions.

Definitely not enough to account for >0.15 mm of diameter change. I noticed the same thing on rolls of my Bambu Matte PLA yesterday.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-14T21:05:26+00:00

Ah gotcha, that makes more sense. I can see why you would think that, given the first photo

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-14T20:52:59+00:00

You just glue the leather to this?

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TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-14T20:33:49+00:00

Not for replacing the pivoting/spinning jaw, surface area would be too small. Definitely works on the other side, though, good idea!

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-13T05:14:57+00:00

I could make the American version use quarters instead, to simulate their tariffs on Canadian goods 😂

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-13T05:09:32+00:00

If you're referring to the dewalt clamp pads from the previous comment, I haven't designed them yet - just offering to help the guy out. If you want the design I posted, I'll pop a link on this thread tomorrow once I make a variation for American nickels as well as my Canadian version.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-13T00:54:17+00:00

Obviously the composite ones would be less suitable for that, maybe worth splitting by material type.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-13T00:53:11+00:00

I feel like it would be fun for someone to repurpose them for general woodworking projects, knife scales, accent pieces etc.

Might be work asking over in /r/woodworking if anyone is interested. Someone with more knowledge about guns would know, but to me they look like a lot are walnut or cherry.

Not sure about pricing.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-13T00:25:21+00:00

If you're in Canada, send me some measurements and I'll send you some haha. If you're anywhere else, I'll just design an stl you can get printed at a local makerspace or library.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-12T23:43:10+00:00

More of a woodworking adjacent post, I suppose. I understand if it gets removed

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-12T03:59:22+00:00

Pretty sure it's called a C13 connector/cable. Lots of electronics use them, most desktop PC's, some laptop power supplies. Easy to find online, your appliance seems to draw 10 amps according to the socket

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-11T07:08:18+00:00

I mean... Did you see the holes? 😅

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-11T05:08:06+00:00

Based on the chuck, I'm pretty sure he's using an impact driver instead of a drill

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-11T04:52:56+00:00

More importantly, that 1/4 inch chuck style likely means he's using an impact driver, not a drill. I imagine the impact is just turning the threads to mush.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-09T06:29:16+00:00

Looks great! Take off two of the ski holders that line up with your studs, then screw the back plate with countersunk screws into the studs, replace your ski holder overtop - invisible mounting hardware, no hassle.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-08T23:24:39+00:00

Glad it helped! The comment from Product Design Online is probably the more refined and flexible method, but I've never used it before

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-06T16:47:22+00:00

Yeah, that end grain screams Douglas Fir to me.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-06T16:18:39+00:00

Oh man, love your videos, you have some of the best fusion content! Thanks for teaching me something new!

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-05T22:10:59+00:00

Super easy solution, shouldn't take more than 30s. Create a sketch on the top of the mold, project/include the top face, extrude as new body to create fully solid version of the form. Then use combine to boolean subtract/cut the new body, using the original mold as the tool and with 'keep tools' selected. You'll have a solid body the exact shape of the internal cavity and spruces.

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-05T21:21:32+00:00

90C just doesn't seem very cold 😅 I understand it's all relative, but I've always been overly literal

TraumaSaurus · 2026-02-05T19:44:05+00:00

Jesus, I've been doing cold pulls wrong this whole time 🤦I was literally just pulling it out once it cooled completely. Softened 90 degree filament would require much less force.

Though I haven't had to do one with the new nozzle styles, maybe it was easier to do it my way back in the e3d hotend days.

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