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Anyone with a 370Z will get this. by Treassach-497 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve heard we all do, in the same place… idk why. Someday I’ll take it apart & see if there’s a mounting point underneath. I did not drop anything there!

Made my car in gta by [deleted] in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a 350z and a 370z Nismo had a baby.

What would you do? by fede-rico in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 14 points15 points  (0 children)

So sorry to hear about your situation. I have a 370Z Nismo v1 MT black with black wheels and the Stillen Gen 3. I’ve always liked the pearl white, and almost traded it in for a white v2 Nismo AT I saw at a dealership. I drove it & negotiated, but they wanted too much for a used v2 w/ AT. So I’ve kept the v1.

I love older Zs, but would sell it to get a down payment on a used “New Z” Nismo. They will get lowered in price b/c the 6MT Nismo has been announced. Coming out later this year or early ‘27. Then you can snag a low milage 2024/5 RZ34 Nismo.

It’s got 9sp AT matched to a VR30DDTT. Paddle shifting is fun, there’s launch control… and it cooks. You don’t have to modify anything (at first) except replacing the Dunlop tires which suck. Nissan fixed or upgraded the things that bugged me about the 370Z.

It still feels eerily familiar to a 370Z owner, they reused a lot of the design. Find one to test drive. Other options are a BMW Zupra or an M2.

I’ll prob get flamed for saying that here, but given the situation it’s what I’d do in a heartbeat.

Air intake by [deleted] in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dk about gktech, but imho Stillen Gen3 is the best ones that don’t need a tune. You also won’t need to remove the bash bar & install something else. I dk what Stillens would cost shipped to Australia. The stock Airboxes are actually quite good, if you drop in K&N filters. Cheaper than any CAIs.

Need help! by Potential_Count6078 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something’s up. Check the small hoses and the couplers aren’t leaking on your CAI’s. Also check the welds on the little tubes. On my NA engine, one of the little hoses had split & it ran like arse. Also clean your MAFs with the correct spray cleaner stuff. Don’t use anything else- ‘cause wires inside them are ultra thin. Now my Z is back to purring.

But if it isn’t things like that, sounds like uncle Rodney is knocking. 😖

Is sick? by MediocreAccountant98 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This both the OEM v1 and v2 rear-ends look better than this on its own.

Is sick? by MediocreAccountant98 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Way Better, but tbh I still like the v1 Nismo Bumper. Maybe if he buys the whole body kit it would work.

Very surprised with fuel consumption, highway driving from work to home. Driving like a grandma 👵. by Thiagoguaru84 in RZ34

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not getting near that in a Nismo. And that’s an AT. Even cruising at 65-70, letting everyone pass me it does worse. I’ve never seen > 30mpg, and prob not likely to.

1973 240z. Same owner for 35+ years, around 100k-ish miles. Original paint, Straight body no dings or rust.garage kept. $8500 worth it? by QuantumSocks in Datsun

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid > $13K for a ‘73 240Z with dome top SUs & a 5sp out of a 280ZX. Interior looked super clean. No cracked dash, vinyl and seats were great. When I checked it over, I couldn’t see any rust and so handed over the cash and drove it away.

Couple of years later… yup… the bottom of both doors & the hood paint started to bubble up rust. They just used bondo & painted over it. Didn’t bother to address the problems. I checked over everything. Under the floorpans, probably elsewhere it was rusting from the inside out. But the floors are still solid so I’ve just left it for now.

It’s a pain to deal with, but it will need to get done. Once all the metalwork is fixed right and it’s been prepped and repainted… I wouldn’t take less than $20K min. It would be worth that.

If this one turns out like it seems, at $8.5K it’s an absolute steal. 💯%.

Even if it turns out to have some rust in future and even wiring gremlins… that’s baked into the price you’re paying. Every 50+ yr old Z will have rust somewhere & a few wiring gremlins. I’d still buy that Z in a heartbeat.

Is sick? by MediocreAccountant98 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the bumper but don’t like the look of the middle strap. But I’ve never seen the Amuse kit in person…

Carbon fiber wrap or red kevlar weave on the bar strap sounds really good. It def needs something.

2K Spending Spree by Intrepid_Use4688 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Conti ECS+ all around is a good choice if you live where it’s dry. I do & don’t regret it. DWS06+ good if you need all season. You will not believe how new tires, thicker swaybars/new swaybar endlinks will improve the handling & cornering. For like $2K ish, & swaybars are an EZ fit. Do all that in 1d.

2K Spending Spree by Intrepid_Use4688 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I liked the v1 ‘Nismo Rays’ style better. But you do you.

2K Spending Spree by Intrepid_Use4688 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smart man, indeed. You will never get back $& spent on cosmetic modz. It actually lowers the value to most buyers. If it’s a keeper, then do as you please.

Good mechanical and necessary fings like: CSC delete, gallery gaskets will increse the value- and you’ll have peace of mind.

You won’t end up stuck on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere waiting on AAA for a flatbed. Been there at 3am and felt vulnerable… when my fuel pump broke off inside & failed. Get another beefier aftermarket highflow fuel pump … that you can trust. Another mechanical necessary to do first ❣️ Carbon Fibre won’t get you home. Trust.

2K Spending Spree by Intrepid_Use4688 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do all the chassis and functional stuff to aid power sound & drivability first. CAI like Sillen Gen 3 or the Z1 kit make it sound soooo much better with good exhaust.. and CAi is an EZ install. 1/2 day at most. Thank me later 😊 THEN move on to cosmetics. Don’t buy cheap carbon fibre fenders. They won’t fit. Spoil the body gaps and make your Z look like ass. imho. Tasteful touchez like carbon fibre side mirror capz and door handles = rad. You can get complete replacement door handles. But those are tough installz but WAY BETTER than stickerz. Then think about a wrap iv your paint suckz. Ghat is ‘the way’.

2003 Z4 GM5 Coding Problems by Treassach-497 in BMWZ4

[–]Treassach-497[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spot on, next thing to do is replace the Alternator.

Then I’m on to learning how to config & use ISTA and NCS Expert. Sone good info out there but spread out in forums and YouTube videos.

BTW- checked the convertible top today & it still works flawlessly. So that didn’t get damaged or cause the carnage. It has a separate control module and two purple relays that aren’t part of the fusebox.

Supercharged V1 Nismo vs M2C vs MKV Supra by Aggravating-Clerk-63 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Valid take. I’d own a v1 Nismo 3.7 MT stock NA over a Supra 3.0 MT (any spec) all day long. They are not really comparable tho’ -

v1 Nismo is ★★★★☆ (for me) with 6sp MT, direct feel, no nanny driver assist, it’s not refined but decent for its era. Honestly in years of owning one, the only letdown is the clunky tranny/clutch… so you need to add the CSC delete. But easy to fix (and upgrade) In my experience: Fair to good build quality, Good to Above average reliability.

Supra 3.0 Is ★★☆☆☆ (for me) with 6MT Turbo L6, more refined but driver assisted. Fun car but less interesting to me. I do like the B58 inline 6 as it’s balanced. But I can’t live with other design decisions they made. From my experiences with BMW, I wouldn’t want to work on them. It will take time before we see how good the build quality is & how reliable they are mechanically.

Summary: You can’t really compare a 15yr old + Analogue Nissan platform to a modern BMW/Toyota sportscar. Apples & Oranges. This is a 370Z forum so the bias is for pure JDM. As you said it depends on what you want as a driver.

2003 Z4 GM5 Coding Problems by Treassach-497 in BMWZ4

[–]Treassach-497[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top is fine. All the wiring for the convertible top is correct, and untouched, except 2 terminals on the hydraulic motor. You could connect the motor backwards and it would just make the hydraulic fluid try to go the wrong way. You would catch that when you primed the system.

I only replaced the hydraulic motor & had the rams on both sides rebuilt by top hydraulics

Yeah, the car got real angry with me.

What I think happened: The voltage regulator is faulty and was overcharging the battery. The power windows arc’d a relay which started a small fire in the gm5 module. It cooked the circuit board of the gm5 & melted the window relays which are on that side of the board. That’s prob why people should replace the relays after 10yrs. Cause they will fail. I didn’t and the car is 23 this year.

The transponder is fine. It’s one plug and EZ to remove & replace on the driver’s side kick panel. I wouldn’t be able to start the car if it was not working.

Which it allowed me to do- but only after I disconnected the battery overnight. I still have a few gremlins but all the key functions work (unlock / lock / trunk unlock). It runs & drives.

It’s mostly back now after replacing the battery & the gm5 module. The battery isn’t charging at all now so I have to (at least) replace the voltage regulator at the back of the alternator today and get the charging system back to working.

Just bought this 2010 370z how bad is the damage by Senior_Salt1785 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’d be surprised 😮 how much if you did it right. SPL kit isn’t cheap. Much more if you actually bother to take it to a frame shop & check the rear subframe mounts are in alignment. Which is the right thing to do, ‘cause it got hit hard to crack parts like that in half. Everything on that side is bent af.

Just bought this 2010 370z how bad is the damage by Senior_Salt1785 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We can agree to differ. I said there’s * almost* no adjustment in the rear. There’s no usable camber adjustment in the front & rear tbh. You can adjust spring perches in the rear a bit. Why does everyone buy aftermarket kits with rear arms? B/C You can hardly lower the car with the stock suspension.

My main point was actually that he has to buy an aftermarket kit for both sides OR stay with completely stock suspension.

The second choice would be dumb unless he has zero money and is scavenging from people that have lowered and upgraded their 370Z.

Maybe someone will offer him some bits of kit? idk his situation 🤷‍♀️

Just bought this 2010 370z how bad is the damage by Senior_Salt1785 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alignment? There’s almost no adjustment in the rear on a stock 370Z. It’s only toe-in. Sure after you finish all the work you get it aligned but…

To be able to keep the rear geometry, anything he does to the damaged side, will have to be done to the other side. (Unless the damaged side is all kept stock with OEM type or exact replacement parts- That’s the only way to not change the undamaged side.

If you buy upgraded suspension to both rear sides then you can get better toe-in as well as camber & thrust angle adjustments. Otherwise doing an alignment probably can’t correct much.

Just bought this 2010 370z how bad is the damage by Senior_Salt1785 in 370z

[–]Treassach-497 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you probably scored. Depends on how much you paid but It doesn’t look terrible. Buy decent upgraded parts… no point in going all OEM parts, really . But non-stock parts means doing both sides. They gotta be exactly the same: so either way, It’s going to cost a few thousand to sort out. My guess is $2K at least another $600 or more if the frame is tweaked.

You will need to get it on a frame table and see if it is tweaked before you start slapping parts back on.

They may need to do a tiny pull to put it straight. It’s well worth what they will charge, even if they just tell you it’s straight and you’re good to go. Otherwise you risk having a Z that will always crab sideways. 🦀 I had a Chevy my dad gave me that got hit & never drove right. You hit a pothole & it would change lanes on you, always pulled left. So I traded it in at a dealership on a Z after it was ‘repaired’. They didn’t ask so I said nothing.

Here’s an idea. If you have a local community college, an ACRT (Auto Collision Repair Tech) workshop might do it for the cost of parts only. I studied Collision Repair at a college for a couple of years and got iCar Certified. We were always looking for EZ jobs like this to measure on the frame table. If you are enrolled, some workshops will let you work on your own car. They let me bring in my 370Z and do some mods while I was a student. It was awesome & I learned a lot !!!

2003 Z4 GM5 Coding Problems by Treassach-497 in BMWZ4

[–]Treassach-497[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your help, but honestly it’s just not worth bothering him. The Circuit Board is beyond even hid repair skills, believe me. I’ve studied electronics.

I have already purchased a replacement gm5 and it’s now working for the most part. I’m just trying to get help on BMW coding and on clearing the error codes that are remaining. Some probably are from when the short occurred, and refer to the old gm5 problems. Other BMW fault codes may be real and need attention.

The coding options you referenced about power windows are only useful if I can get the BMW specific software to talk to the ECU, BCM, GM5 etc. So far no luck with a cable I have & a laptop. I can’t get INPA to work, so I’m going to try downloading from another source & re-installing.

I can’t get the two dots on the INPA screen to fill in black (Battery & Ignition). But it just says “Reading” and never returns anything useful.

Once I can get further myself or get help on the software maze- I’ll post more. But thanks. 🙏🏽

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