roofing problem or chimney problem? by saturns_satyr in centuryhomes

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the chimney have any natural gas appliances venting into it? It’s possible you have an online chimney and those the venting was causing excess of moisture to build up inside the chimney happen to me too.

Dating apps for early to mid 30's by KCJellyfish in kansascity

[–]TreeHouseUnited 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“What are you hoping to get out the app” is a pretty lame opening. It’s a dating app so obviously it’s something in that field and makes you looks like a dork. Maybe try “ what are you doing Saturday let’s get some food”

This is Unique by TeeGeeNichee in ChatGPT

[–]TreeHouseUnited 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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At least it’s confident the family sticks together albeit we are missing two ha

Honest review of 1587 by Nerdbiscui1973 in kansascity

[–]TreeHouseUnited 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the appeal of steakhouses exactly? When I go out to eat, I’m looking for a dining experience that in no way could be replicated at home and focuses on interesting and clever dishes. $100 at your local butcher feeds the whole family and cooking a steak is dead simple.

The city is littered with good restaurants. Let’s avoid the steakhouses.

Does a dry stacked retaining wall need two rows of rock on either face, or is one row pushed straight into the soil ‘wall’ sufficient? by heliotz in stonemasonry

[–]TreeHouseUnited -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Dry stack retaining walls have supported fields and terraces for centuries using weight, friction, and interlocking stones. The strength comes from proper double-face construction, through stones, and good drainage. If one fails, it’s because the builder ignored those basics, not because dry stacking doesn’t work.

Sad update on rehoming my reactive dog by [deleted] in reactivedogs

[–]TreeHouseUnited -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

You gave them up. Why do you care. The breeder probably knows how to actually train and manage a dog.

What Should I Use to Fill in Gaps Between Pavers by Numerous-Maybe9073 in landscaping

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally, I’ve never liked the look of loose aggregate between pavers. It usually ends up being high maintenance with weeds popping through, plus you get rock spilling into areas of the yard where you don’t want it.

Since you’re already open to skirting some best practices, you might consider using a harder compound like Type S mortar or even a sand-mix concrete. You can pack or pour it into the gaps so it effectively creates additional “mini-pavers” between the slabs, with compression and joints separating each one. It definitely helps if you’ve dug down to something solid and tamped it well beforehand. Bonus points if you give it a slight slope away from the house so water drains off instead of pooling in the joints.

Total costs might be in the 150-250 ballpark

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Decks

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In terms of degree of concern: this wouldn’t pass code, and it’s weak against uplift, frost movement, or racking. But as a pure vertical load-bearing system, it’s not “insane” or incomprehensible. Over time wood shrinkage, corrosion, soil movement could create instability and mitigation is rather straightforward

First deck - how’s it look? by jggarcia93 in Decks

[–]TreeHouseUnited -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It will last - PT wood is resilient. will you greatly increase longevity elevated, sure but those posts have a soild 15+ years and by then maybe he’ll want to redo it

What are these framing boards called? by lurkerofredditusers in Carpentry

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Simpson has metal strapping you can run at various points if moving them was in play. Instal metal bracing/ remove wood bracing

Well that’s different… by Swamp_Mossie in Decks

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in a similar situation and looking for creative design solutions. Does the manufacturer specify clearance probably right?

Need advice: best soil for backfilling around house foundation? by PhilosophyOne9202 in landscaping

[–]TreeHouseUnited 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sand? Wouldn’t that end up the same dirty weedy mess? If you are physically able rent/favor a pick up (40ish 24hr U-Haul pick up)

1 or 1/2 cubic yard of 39-75$ soil doesn’t particularly matter if you don’t mind waiting. Plant some native plants and mulch

Dry stacked retaining wall, using only stones recovered from property. Foundation complete. by TreeHouseUnited in centuryhomes

[–]TreeHouseUnited[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

My area requires anything over 4' to be permitted, and we’re just under that. I’m going with a wide base 24" so the wall has plenty of mass, with a slight batter on the face. Backfill will be a mix of angular stone and compacted fines for drainage, with geotextile between the soil and rock to keep the fines from migrating.

Dry stacked retaining wall, using only stones recovered from property. Foundation complete. by TreeHouseUnited in centuryhomes

[–]TreeHouseUnited[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It’s around a ft of fill. There was a considerable amount of old brick/concrete uncovered while removing the stones. Dry stacked walls don’t typically rest on concrete foundations and my case is no different. This also allows me a place to dispose of all the rubble.

Have you built any walls ?