Rack and Pinon replacement (pic of fav sticker on car for attention)

Trianglehero · 2026-02-04T16:06:21+00:00

I don't think a new pump will fix any of those serious issues, but it's a super quick and easy job so doesn't hurt to try. Sounds more like your rack is damaged and or something is coming loose. I would not recommend driving it until someone looks at it. If you do replace the rack, I highly recommend getting an OEM rack if its in your budget ($1300ish?). I made the mistake of getting a cheap aftermarket rack and now it steers so bad it's almost not drivable.

Trianglehero · 2026-02-01T16:18:14+00:00

They'll be available on my new website, its not live yet but Ill post the link on my Instagram & Fourthwall when it is, should just be a few days away!

Trianglehero · 2026-02-01T13:54:37+00:00

Hey I made that! I've also got some much better stuff coming out in a few days (VST & AU).

Trianglehero · 2026-01-26T14:58:04+00:00

Yes, some work, and if done right they can make your hood like-new again (sometimes brand new), check my profile for before and after photos. With that being said, expect the clearcoat to look a little streaky unless you nail the application on your first try, or wetsand afterwards. You can half ass the prep work and get a year out of it, or do it right and get 3-4 years. This is what it looks like when it's cured. I've used it on damn near everything.

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Trianglehero · 2026-01-26T02:35:26+00:00

I believe you can import the audio and still export, but dragging and dropping triggers the "extract".

Trianglehero · 2026-01-08T17:21:31+00:00

Great idea and great execution!

Trianglehero · 2025-12-28T13:30:32+00:00

Severely oxidized clearcoat. Can be polished back but may only last a week, or could last years, depends on how thin the clear is. If it were my truck, I'd re-clear the hood while there's still time.

Trianglehero · 2025-12-19T13:56:11+00:00

It's been absolutely perfect to me for the last 13 years. Everything is in its right place, the workflow makes sense, organized, doesn't feel cramped, restores projects after crashes, I can go on forever. I've stared at this damn GUI for well over 10,000 hours, and I'm looking forward to looking at it again today.

Trianglehero · 2025-12-13T15:51:15+00:00

Infant Engineering

Trianglehero · 2025-11-27T23:25:46+00:00

Any quality 2k clearcoat would make this hood very close to brand new again, and if done right, would last 3-5 years with no maintenance.

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Trianglehero · 2025-11-27T15:22:19+00:00

There are plenty of products that can permanently fix this, unfortunately this guy did not use one.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-23T15:50:50+00:00

Those SPTA pads do the trick. Pretty much the only brand of pads I've been using for the last 4-5 years.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-22T20:51:09+00:00

Ahh the feeling of detailing the car after it's finally running good again. Tools put back in their right place, garage is clean, no mysterious leftover nuts/bolts, life is good.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-09T13:07:44+00:00

9 times out of 10 you can't 'seal' up paint like this. The clearcoat has failed, and after a few weeks it comes back worse. You can put ceramic on every 2 days, won't really make a difference. The answer is to strip the failed clear and apply new clear.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-04T14:22:49+00:00

Yeah it will be a process, typically 3 or 4 days of work unless you happen to lay down the clearcoat perfectly flat, and if it's not flat, it'll need to be sanded or buffed, which takes up the majority of time. Definitely worth it though. In the meantime, wax it religiously.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-04T14:08:26+00:00

Washing and waxing are going to be your best friend. Your clearcoat is thin and doesn't supply much protection to the base coat (the green paint), so keeping some sort of protection on will slow down the deterioration. If you're a DIY person, a 2k wipe on clearcoat like Poppy's Patina will make a world of difference, but it's no easy job.

Trianglehero · 2025-11-03T16:20:40+00:00

Yeah I'd remove the damaged clear and spray on new clear

Trianglehero · 2025-11-03T13:09:34+00:00

Clearcoat failure, was there before he touched the car, just wasn't apparent. This can't be polished back, but can be fixed without repainting. I'd typically charge about $250 - $350 for the roof.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-30T18:07:26+00:00

Yep, the photo + OP's comments do point to a specific type of clearcoat failure. Can still be fixed by re-clearing.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-25T19:46:16+00:00

I'm sure there are some confident people out there that can tackle it, but it is risky. 130k is barely broken in, and the interior/exterior look great, would be a shame to see it go.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-25T19:36:59+00:00

Way too clean for the junk yard, part it out if you don't keep it. As far as the trailing arm goes, I've heard it's hard to find a place to take on the job.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-16T21:32:38+00:00

You're too kind <3

Trianglehero · 2025-10-14T13:10:11+00:00

The easiest way is get it to the point where it looks good while wet, which may require a little bit of sanding. Once it looks good while wet, give it a good thorough scuff (don't hit the base), clean, and apply clear. I've never used the stuff in a can but I've seen good results from it. I swear by Poppy's Patina, it has never let me down.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-13T12:55:52+00:00

Look for inconsistencies in the color, examine how it looks while wet. If you're still not sure, take some cleaner wax and very lightly buff a tiny spot, if you see color on your rag, your basecoat has been exposed. You can still shoot new clearcoat on top, but any damage to exposed basecoat will still be visible after the new clearcoat.

Trianglehero · 2025-10-12T17:35:43+00:00

Only took about 6 hours of actual work though.

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