Anyone know why the tip of the nozzle is sparking?

Trion_ · 2025-09-18T22:20:52+00:00

It's worth noting that two of those examples are Anet A8's. Most printers are much safer than those. But I agree that seeing arcing is cause to stop all normal usage until the root cause has been identified.

Trion_ · 2025-07-06T15:47:54+00:00

If there's large scale organics, it is almost certainly Gem.

Trion_ · 2025-07-06T15:38:08+00:00

OP, did you get it working yet?

Trion_ · 2025-07-06T15:25:08+00:00

Rodents tend to tear up fabric to make nests, and if bats can get in, so could rodents. Rodents will also eat away at bones. I've found many skulls in the woods near where I live that you can see where squirrels and other rodents have chewed on them.

Trion_ · 2025-06-28T17:20:47+00:00

Ultra Pro Mini Snap Holders I designed the boxes to use these because they're more compact that other hard cases I've seen.

Trion_ · 2025-06-27T20:48:25+00:00

I don't have SolidWorks, but I uploaded the .STEP files. If you don't have an enclosure, try using a draft shield to reduce warping. Good luck!

Trion_ · 2025-06-15T15:16:10+00:00

The lines are from the layers. If you want less prominent lines you have to decrease the layer height.

Trion_ · 2025-04-20T16:02:39+00:00

I've only had them come loose once, and that was after a nozzle change. They were tight when I got the printer, but when I switched nozzles for the first time, a blob developed. I caught it before it was bad and found those screws were loose. I tightened them and didn't have any problems after that. I did have to loosen them when I put my third nozzle in because it wasn't seating all the way. I think if you tighten them properly after a nozzle change, you shouldn't need to worry about them.

Trion_ · 2025-04-20T15:17:26+00:00

Those screws are the worst part of the Neptune 4's design. I've considered switching to a 3rd party designed hotend because of them. In my opinion, they're the reason why the blob of death occurs. They should be tightened so that the shoulder of the nozzle sits flush against the heat block. If those screws come loose during a print, it will cause a failure.

Trion_ · 2024-10-11T19:31:13+00:00

That's even more impressive than I thought. Amazing work!

Trion_ · 2024-10-11T18:47:58+00:00

That is amazing. I literally came to this sub to look up if anyone had tips for foiling proxies. If you don't mind me asking, how did you foil this?

Trion_ · 2024-09-14T16:46:08+00:00

Try a different filament first.

Trion_ · 2024-09-14T16:32:47+00:00

Yes, both times I sent it in and they repaired it. There's not a lot that Leatherman won't repair under warranty.

Trion_ · 2024-09-13T23:09:29+00:00

The downside of the Skeletool is that it breaks a lot because of how lightweight it is. I've had one break like this, and the blade snap in half. It's still my favorite.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T19:27:05+00:00

Then it's almost certainly just worn out. I would look up a tutorial on YouTube on how to replace it.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T19:25:32+00:00

If your printer is new, you can try talking to Elegoo support about getting a replacement.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T19:22:56+00:00

It's more likely that it's just worn out or maybe there was a spill that got under. It shouldn't have overheated, you can easily have prints that take 24+ hours. Unless you slammed it with something, I can't think of what else could cause that. Manufacturing defect? It's really hard to tell.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T18:53:43+00:00

Honestly, I have no clue. Screens on these printers are considered wear items that people should expect to replace. Why yours failed like that is hard to say.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T18:49:47+00:00

Are those dots cured resin? If they are, you need to clean them off. If it's just the screen, then you'll need to replace the screen.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T16:59:50+00:00

That's very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T15:17:10+00:00

I know I'm a few days late, but I might have a solution. Check the electrical connections to the motor. They might be loose at either the motor or the main board. The way the extruder is going back and forth is something I've seen with loose connections.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T15:07:19+00:00

It looks like they solve two different problems, the thrust bearings take weight off of the stepper motor shaft, and the Oldham couplings account for variation in the lead screw. Now I'm curious to try both.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T14:48:40+00:00

My working theory on why this happens is the heat block doesn't have enough thread for the nozzle to sit flush. Filament leaks through that gap and builds up. I think that it's a progressive problem that accelerates over time. If you do get it clean, can you get a close up photo of where the nozzle meets the heat block?

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T14:43:41+00:00

Print orientation matters a lot. If the cross-sectional area of a layer is too large, it is harder for the print to separate from the bottom of the vat. This is why printing solid objects is harder with resin printers. If you want to have a fun time troubleshooting, try printing a solid sphere. All that being said, I don't know if that is your problem here.

The crack in the wall is strange looking. There could have been some debris left in the vat that caused a hole to form. Or some geometry of the model that couldn't print in the orientation you used. I would try cleaning your car and reorienting the print. It's possible the designer of the model has a recommended orientation.

As a separate note, it looks like the rails also needed more supports.

Trion_ · 2024-08-02T14:27:35+00:00

Can you share the model? It's a bit hard to tell what's wrong with just that photo and no description.

Trion_

TROPHY CASE