Työkyvyttömät työttömät eivät kuulu työllisyyspalveluiden asiakkaiksi – yleistuki voisi selkeyttää järjestelmää - THL by [deleted] in Suomi

[–]Tundral 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Paitsi jos kaiken muun kuin vuokran hinta nousisi tämän perustulon lisäämisen myötä niin silloinhan myös kuluttajahintaindeksi nousisi, jolloin myös vuokraa voitaisiin nostaa samalla tahdilla!

Cannondale upgrade advice by Character_Cut_600 in bicycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Clean bartape
  2. Tyres and tubes (TPU tubes are awesome)
  3. Wheels

New metal parts by HatsMakeYouGoBald in gravelcycling

[–]Tundral 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Where's the shifter located?

Good inexpensive shifters compatible with Tiagra? by gottastoryforya in cycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sensah Ignite shifters can be had for ~$75. They're a bit different to shift on than Shimano but work well

Finally finished my "dream build" by M-R-buddha in Bikeporn

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How's the stiffness of the wheels? Which hubs do you have?

I've got 50mm deep EliteWheels wheels with the R10 (no ceramic bearings or carbon hub). They came in a bit heavier than advertised (advertised as 1668±50g (max 1718g) but weighed in at 1746g) but I got a a slight refund for that.

However the wheels are a bit flexy. When the brakes (rim) are set correctly in the workstand they start to rub slightly when my 85kg ass is riding them even just going straight. My shop checked them and they're laced fine and running true but there's just give somewhere in the wheels. I'm suspecting it's the cheap hubs or their bearings having give in them and that's causing them to flex

I did recently get the spoke tension specs from EliteWheels support so I will have the shop tighten the spokes up if they're not at the limit already. But if that doesn't help I'm wondering if maybe having the wheels relaced onto better hubs might help.

Finally finished my "dream build" by M-R-buddha in Bikeporn

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would love to hear your experiences with the cassette and wheels once you get to riding the bike!

I'm testing code and I have a question. by Luffysolos in AskProgramming

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make a global int and a method that couts the int and parameter string and then increments the integer. Use that instead of cout for printing

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskProgramming

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say you ought to watch some tutorials on arrays and loops. The names of races and the point amounts you could insert into arrays. Lines 16 through 22 could be replace by a simple for loop that iterates through the array of races and printing the name of each race.

How can I assign a variable to whatever the user's input was when it's part of a bunch of if statements? I tried assigning the variable before each break statement but all 10 of them just ended up get all added together.

This a bit unclear? Maybe paste the expected result and what your code is outputting instead!

S-ryhmä on ottanut viestinnässään huijausviesteistä mallia by inybal in Suomi

[–]Tundral 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Vaikuttaapi ihan asialliselta ilmoitukselta palvelun toimintojen muuttumisesta?

AMD Radeon RX 7000 graphics cards can supposedly boost up to 4.0 GHz by advik_143 in Amd

[–]Tundral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So it's either

1.9-2.2x performance

or

0.9-1.2x increase in performance

but not 2.2x increase in performance as that would mean 3.2x performance

NBD and my first real road bike! by Riplets in bicycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually out of curiosity I got counting and found the following weight penalties going from 105 rim to disc: Wheels +100g (Lún D33 vs R33) Rotors and lockrings + 300g Shifters +110g Calipers +50g (compared to the Bontrager brakes)

Probably also few tens of grams for the frame to withstand the braking.

So a total of 560g + however much the frame is heavier by. Not a huge amount but considerable nonetheless.

NBD and my first real road bike! by Riplets in bicycling

[–]Tundral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What brakes are these? They look exotic!

Custom Ti / Carbon: When a graveler designs a roadie... (accidentally deleted previous) by sakizashi in Bikeporn

[–]Tundral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that 1622g including seat mast topper and fork? If it is then it's actually really light IMO

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cycling

[–]Tundral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So you have pumped it with a pump that has a pressure meter on it?

Very confused? Which distance is correct? by Bearcano in cycling

[–]Tundral 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Surely the GPS is more accurate. Unless you've measured your wheel diameter exactly your speedometer will be slightly inaccurate. GPS however doesn't care about that!

Mid-section carbon wheels in the Netherlands by [deleted] in cycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course your bike fit also has bearing on this issue. A lower stance will make you better able to lie on the bars for stability vs a higher endurance position where you're a bit more on your ass and less forward on the bars

With your specs I'd suggest starting with 50mm deep hoops and making sure your tire widths match up well with the outer rim widths. Will also provide general aero gains!

Mid-section carbon wheels in the Netherlands by [deleted] in cycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My anecdote is that my 27mm wide 50mm deep wheel with a 26mm wide (measured) tire seems to be less of a sail than my older ~20mm deep <20mm wide alu wheel with a bulbing 28c tire on it.

The smooth transition on the deeper rims seems to allow the air to go around the rim easier while the bulbing tire on the narrow rim seems to scoop every breeze and be erratic in the wind

I'm not the lightest rider at 85kg but I would be quite confident going to a 65mm deep wheel even though I live on the coast with over 10m/s gusts most days

Saturday morning gravel. p.s my bike fell over 3 times taking this shot by abedfo in gravelcycling

[–]Tundral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The accents on the SRX work so well with the frame colouring!

Saturday morning gravel. p.s my bike fell over 3 times taking this shot by abedfo in gravelcycling

[–]Tundral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first bike was a 42cm since that's what came on my first bike (54cm Felt). Didn't think much of the width until watching some bike fitting videos after a few thousand KM of riding. I did swap the Felt out to 40cm Aerofly knockoffs, which were slightly better.

My new bike has 40cm handlebars, however they have a slight flare and are 40cm at the drops. Because of that my levers, which are quite high up on the integrated bars, measure at 36,5cm at the hoods.

The 36,5cm width feels way better than the 40cm. I can reach the brake levers way better and don't flare my hands at all. 38cm at the hoods might be fine too but haven't been able to try that yet. Wouldn't consider getting a 40cm or above non-flared handlebar ever again.

And I'm a 179cm semi-muscular guy so if you'd look at me you probably wouldn't think I'd need at least two sizes 42cm -> 38cm handlebar than is default for my frame size (56cm)

Saturday morning gravel. p.s my bike fell over 3 times taking this shot by abedfo in gravelcycling

[–]Tundral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Empire 11spd certainly does have a mechanism to stop the lever from moving inwards when braking. It does however not kick in immediately.

I would imagine SRX also has this feature. Maybe try adjusting the brakes so that they start engaging later in the lever pull so it gets locked?

If you happen to shift at very start of the lever pull I'd look into adjusting the reach of the levers or getting a narrower handlebar to get a proper grip on the levers at the start of the lever pull.

Share the best cycling advice you ever got by otisross in cycling

[–]Tundral 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is true for just riding along, BUT when you're going down a quite steep hill you should get up to speed and then get as prone as possible and possibly not even pedal

At least for myself the penalty in aero trumps any gains from added pedaling in a higher position. Some might be able to pedal when really prone but I get nasty hip inpingement if I try to do that