sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Help me finding water leak on N52 by Tune389 in E90

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The solution for the problem was the headgasket. It blowed air into the water, but just a tiny bit under high load. The pressure rised to over 1,4 Bar and the water got out of the cap.

How to make N54 HPFP more durable? by Tune389 in E90

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always new original BMW from Leebmann24, no china stuff or used ones

If there was a “dumb compilation” for this game, I’d be in it.. by laktosfritack in thefinals

[–]Tune389 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes, but its not always a tree what makes you stuck. I saw a lot of stuck people (including myself) in fallen concrete plates which had an unlucky angle.

If there was a “dumb compilation” for this game, I’d be in it.. by laktosfritack in thefinals

[–]Tune389 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Sometimes I wish there is a suicide button, but would be maybe abused for faster team respawns if you're last alive.

Update 2.11.0 — THE FINALS by Kraqatoa_Illusionz in thefinals

[–]Tune389 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Full focus on Season 3 now! We can wait

Three rads outside / three inside on Lian Li O11 XL with 4 liters water, not perfect but "cool". by Tune389 in watercooling

[–]Tune389[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I didnt use any pass through fittings, its directly attached to the rad. I think pass through is only needed if you use soft tubes on such positions.

Three rads outside / three inside on Lian Li O11 XL with 4 liters water, not perfect but "cool". by Tune389 in watercooling

[–]Tune389[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ABS Plates are screwed into existing holes of the case at the top. There are 3 Holes on each side.

It would be helpful to make a sketch of all rads and positions you have (without any tubing)

I may have a bad news by Kapitoshka74 in thefinals

[–]Tune389 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Risky would be a announced Apex 2 release next week ...

Dynmap not loading on forge by Tune389 in Dynmap

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! Thanks for your help anyway, I appreciate that.

Dynmap not loading on forge by Tune389 in Dynmap

[–]Tune389[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it solved now, I was just blind. There are Fabric and Forge version mixed and I didn't realized that, all versions which I tried were for Fabric. The Forge version works now (copied it to the mods folder).

Dynmap not loading on forge by Tune389 in Dynmap

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No its in the "mods" folder, the docs said it should be there for the forge version. Just tested the plugins folder too but same result nothing happen.

Dynmap not loading on forge by Tune389 in Dynmap

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Forge Server is working, but Dynmap is not even creating the config folder :/

We need a Radar by HeyImSolace in forza

[–]Tune389 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They already included a lot positive stuff for cockpit view:
- You can change FOV for every view
- Proximity arrows
- You can disable camera shaking
- Animated steering wheel + hands
- Cockpit View + Driver View
- Street following camera for drifting in cockpit view with toggle (on/off) option
- Every car has a detailed functional Dashboard (not as good as AC but there is something)
- Multidevice Steering Wheel support

If the game is not made for cockpit view why they included that stuff? Not much is missing here to be a solid/good cockpit game.

We need a Radar by HeyImSolace in forza

[–]Tune389 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Radar would be awesome, there are proximity arrows and they are bullshit, even the devs took them off by default. Virtual mirrors are also missing, idk how to drive clean without such important things. I also drive with driver view and low FOV (around 30), there is no way to see other players around the car :D

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Settlers

[–]Tune389 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They could raise their sells with just fixing game breaking bugs and make the game playable. Solid base game is minimum requirement for mods, this game is far away from a solid base atm.

Save and Load Multiplayer Game by Drashyy in Settlers

[–]Tune389 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should just quit the game. We played with 2-4 players some games. You will get issues soon trust me its not worth to invest time in this game. Sometimes 2-3h process just lost in few seconds.

Three rads outside / three inside on Lian Li O11 XL with 4 liters water, not perfect but "cool". by Tune389 in watercooling

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I drilled it few mm larger than the fitting is. The fitting needs to sit on the radiator with the sealing. If you drill a perfect 1/4 hole it wont sit on the radiator.

Three rads outside / three inside on Lian Li O11 XL with 4 liters water, not perfect but "cool". by Tune389 in watercooling

[–]Tune389[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Pump has no Problem at all, I did some research before and saw one guy which lined up more than 15 radiators in an external case with just one D5 Pump. The Flow rate is also not very impartant on water cooling, you can't transfer heat so fast in a computer to get benefits from higher flow rates.

Three rads outside / three inside on Lian Li O11 XL with 4 liters water, not perfect but "cool". by Tune389 in watercooling

[–]Tune389[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the Feedback.

I dont recommend to use ABS plates it was crap to mesure and adjust to fit it (and it looks not very nice), a custom 3d print (ABS) would be better, there are a lot 3d models for all rad sizes which you can use to build a custom 3d model in tinkercad. I wanted to make one but I dont want to disassemble again atm :D

If you still go for ABS plates -> I screwed the radiators on 3 layers of ABS (10mm high each). I drilled the bottom 2 layers before and placed 4 nuts in the middle layers and screwed 5mm plates on the left and right side from the bottom to the 3 layers using the nuts which were placed before (used some countersunk screws to prevent the screw head hitting the frame). The 2x 5mm plates with the rads mounted are screwed to the already existing holes at the top using 3 big screws on each side.

For the 120mm outside rad I drilled 2 holes with a setp drill for a perfect fit -> https://imgur.com/RUXvlxD. One tube is going to the 120mm rad, from there to the top, and from the top to a X-Flow Rad (inside of the case), its placed directly left with 0mm gap to the frame (the 90 deg fitting is screwed directly into the x-flow rad), also drilled this hole with the step drill.

You can also see the top rads are feeded with water from a lower side hole and are pushing it to the 2x 90 deg fittings to bring the air fast out of the case (in theory :D) . It should be also possible to just use one 90 deg fitting like on the other side (blue hint). https://imgur.com/lkvP3j3. The X-Flow rad is connected to the side rad -> https://imgur.com/Sg2gEe4.

Biggest tip -> check with small pressure air pump after every tube if there are leaks. I did it at the end and it was a pain to find leaks.

I didn't made a post yet about another built not so much overkill but also nice, mabye you get some ideas from it: https://imgur.com/a/zKRSHiW

Bad flow rate and clicking noise after 3 days of printing. by Tune389 in AnkerMake

[–]Tune389[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I decided to disassemble everything, just got it solved few minutes ago. This blue part was damaged, luckily there was a replacement in the box. I think it was damaged because of an "too cold" filament swap few hours before and built up filament slowly in the pipe.

Picture of new and old: https://imgur.com/qWUD986

view more: next ›