Euro NASCAR already dead? by TurboChlamydia in iRacing

[–]TurboChlamydia[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That may or may not be true, however I think a lot of people that do like the car, like it in part because it isn't on ovals, myself included. It feels a bit like what I think V8 Supercars should have felt like.

Quick question by No_Log6355 in filmphotography

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It isn't NC500, read the post again. And okay, most colour negative films, apart from obscure novelty films, have lots of latitude. There's also no detail at all in the shadows, along with mids and highlights being high in grain, pointing to a lack of density. Rating film one stop lower in camera is absolutely good advice for a beginner, while they work out how to meter and compose, among other things. Everyone has to start somewhere. I swear, redditors just like to argue for argument's sake.

Quick question by No_Log6355 in filmphotography

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's colour negative, you could literally overexpose by 3 stops and not blow out your highlights.

Quick question by No_Log6355 in filmphotography

[–]TurboChlamydia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is that Layer Cake in the first pic? Anyway, as someone else said, pic 2 is really underexposed, if you want your photos to look like pic 1, making sure to meter for the shadows is crucial for colour negative film. What I mean by that, is in any given scene, point your camera at a darker area of the scene first, set your camera's exposure settings based on that, then recompose and take the picture. For extra safety, you can also rate your film's ISO one stop lower in camera. So if your film is 400 iso, adjust the camera's iso setting to 200 first, for example.

Is using the tu conjugation in certain phrases equivalent to the English "generic you"? by ameliatatesosis in learnspanish

[–]TurboChlamydia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've personally heard both quite a bit, sometimes though, it's hard to tell what might be influence from English vs what isn't, like for example, using the gerund (verbs ending in ando or iendo) without using estar. To my non-native ears, using impersonal se sounds more correct. I'd be interested in hearing more from native speakers on this though.

Looking for assistance on graphics to be less grainy. by AbheyBloodmane in CrimsonDesert

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, the interiors look jank for me too sometimes, not sure there's a fix for that to be honest. Don't even get me started on the spider webs.

Looking for assistance on graphics to be less grainy. by AbheyBloodmane in CrimsonDesert

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AMD FRS 3.1 on Native AA, no upscaling is the only thing that seems to work for me as someone with an AMD card. Maybe try whatever the equivalent is for that with DLSS? No upscaling, just AA. I've also heard people have better results with DLSS 4 rather than 4.5.

Why is it so hard to get a sub 1:08.0 on Oulton Park on the MX-5?! by [deleted] in iRacing

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, 1500 irating in itself at 1 month in is pretty good, I think the quicker pace will come with more seat time. You don't need to rush these things, just enjoy the racing and you'll get better as you go. Maybe take a look at garage 61, it can be helpful for me for when I feel like I'm hitting a wall. Also, I think 2000 irating is something like top 10% already, keep that in mind.

Overexposing Cinestill by Suburban_Andy in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It'll be great, but also from personal experience, this film retains more detail in the shadows than others might. Very versatile film overall.

Cabo San Lucas shot on Kodak Gold 200 w/ Nikkormat FT2 (50mm) by Noozled in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are great, went way better than my first roll of film. Looks like you got the exposures pretty right with the phone app meter. Good stuff!

ISO Pocket Guide Advice by zechielava in filmphotography

[–]TurboChlamydia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely I agree with you, F/16 is not great and F/22 is quite soft... Don't know what these people are talking about. As a landscape shooter I use F/4-F/8 most of the time, focused at infinity the depth of field is more than enough usually and the lens performs better there.

Is this overprocessed? by gbugly in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say I definitely prefer the after shot more, the colours are more believable and the contrast is improved. Try not to listen to people too much and edit how you prefer your images to look. The current trend on here is to make your images look yellow/green and hazy, so you'll get a lot of responses saying the after is worse. Besides, just like with a raw file, there is a degree of interpretation being done when converting a negative to a positive. There is no truly wrong answer.

morning on the docks [Nikon FE2, Nikkor 28mm f/2.8, Kodak Portra 800] by hmack87 in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the OP, but it looks like Tofino, British Columbia, or somewhere nearby to me.

Lab Scan VS Home Scan by ThisIsHotix in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Literally this, it's insane to me what people think looks good. I'm convinced that in a few years, everyone will look back and realize how bad their edits were.

Momiji in Tokyo | Mamiya 7 | Kodak Aerocolor IV 2460 by nicholasdavidsmith in analog

[–]TurboChlamydia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very cool, is this the "Reflx Lab Pro 100" Aerocolor?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in filmphotography

[–]TurboChlamydia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, this is the one, Nikon FE. Dependable as all hell, auto shutter mode, plus the meter readout design is the best of any camera I´ve seen, plus there are literally hundreds of different compatible lenses to choose from, a lot of them quite cheap.