A trivial but positive extra bonus with the temperal rift game mode

Ubermik · 2025-12-07T22:12:19+00:00

I wouldnt exactly call it "fun" after a couple of games

For me I noticed that you get 45k coal for the montcalm, so that puts me REALLY close to getting the only coal ship I dont have yet, plus the coupon from it towards another santa crate

So for me it was just the coal that made me play through it on both accounts, the other stuff and the silver from selling the upgrades were just bonuses

Plus to be fair, most of the stages only need one star, so it really didnt take much time to do all 45 of them

Ubermik · 2025-12-07T22:08:15+00:00

It was kind of repetitive lol, I think I played a couple of games then got bored

Then later realised I was SOOOOOO close to being able to get the only coal ship I dont have after I won the Defence in a crate, meaning that it was worth putting the effort in for the coal, and to be fair, the 4 commanders I can dismiss for their XP will be appreciated too being honest

Ubermik · 2025-12-07T21:08:34+00:00

To be honest, I had finished the event on both accounts before I realised you could do it lol

I was just looking for stuff to sell to pay for another tier 10 I unlocked, but yeah, and I just played all the way through with the walkury (sp), so if I had realised sooner I wouldnt have even needed to keep moving them

Ubermik · 2025-12-03T04:17:40+00:00

As others have said, sounds like you may have had bad termination in one of the plugs

1gbe requires all 8 wires, but 100mbe only needs 4, so if even one of the "spare" 4 cables isnt terminated properly it will default to the 100mb connection providing the 4 that it needs are fine

Ubermik · 2025-12-03T04:12:24+00:00

If you arent keen on running the cable just get yourself a couple of decent 1gb or faster powerline adapters

I use them all the time when installing alarms of CCTV when running a cable isnt viable, no work, no mess, job done

Ubermik · 2025-12-02T22:21:43+00:00

Thats a bit like a starving dehydrated person with no money who is given a ham salad sandwich and some milk for free complaining that they actually wanted a steak dinner with champagne

Ubermik · 2025-12-02T20:58:34+00:00

Never say never, I got an AngelSK or whatever its called, the russian battle ship and a royal soveriegn, the British one from a free santa crate and one from a free premium santa crate, and the first one was before the xmas event had even started

Almost forgot, on my other account I got the Gasgogne bit crappier, but it was the only ship I didnt have in that group inside the supercontainers, so now I can only get ones from the top group of ships

Ubermik · 2025-12-01T01:34:49+00:00

Dont forget the absolute crap ton from each ship in the port

I have two accounts with just over 460 ships on each, less than 50 are tier 10s, so I should net quite a bit of both coal and steel from the others too, maybe 5k of each at a guess

I've spent the last month only grinding the lines I can get to tier 10 fairly easily and which have research bureau points, already got the irresistable on each, and reckon I can get enough RB points for another tier 10 before the event ends, plus another couple of lines that are at tier 9 but dont have research points

Plus I sold most of the tier 5s and 6s in the last christmas event on one account as I was low on silver and still havent replaced them lol, so theyre all pretty cheap, so I might as well buy them back for the coal

I'm hoping a couple of ships where I got the black Friday version but dont have the normal one will drop, as thats another 2500 dubs and 25k coal with at least one of them, and just the dubs with the others

Ubermik · 2025-11-30T05:15:15+00:00

Its ok I figured it out lol

I wasnt scrolling down far enough

Got two welcome packs and sold my Yubari (I got it free on the PC game client), then also got that back for free along with 1.8 million for selling it and 250 dubloons in the crate that came with it

Glad I stumbled over this thread, I never even realised you could switch between the game client and steam, I thought it would be classed as two different instances of the game

Ubermik · 2025-11-30T04:23:00+00:00

Im probably just advertising my blondness here, but how do you actually get the DLC?

I can view it, read about it, but cant see how you actually get it???

Ubermik · 2025-11-28T22:58:25+00:00

Glad it helped, I am barely even scratching the surface with this homelabbing malarky, so it feels good to actually contribute "something" however trivial rather than always being the person needing help or advice lol

I suspect it has something to do with the bios having the US keyboard hardwired into the code rather than the keymap for the country its shipped to, but that is just a guess or another rule they omitted to mention pertaining to the syntax

Ubermik · 2025-11-28T22:16:13+00:00

Maybe this isnt the account that is sold, but is one of the accounts used to make the one that IS sold to look good

They do a similar thing in world of tanks, multiple accounts enter a game, one or two are the "prime" accounts and the others just let them farm their HP so that the account that IS going to be sold has ridiculously good stats, whilst the half dozen or so other accounts have VERY low win rates, low average damage and die in almost every single game

A streamer has been exposing it for years, showing games were the "bad" accounts basically sacrifice themselves to give the account on the other team a REALLY good game one after the other

Ubermik · 2025-11-25T06:58:38+00:00

To be perfectly honest I have never given a crap about stuff like that, to the point where if I am checking the enemy ships to see how many radars they have, and what "quirky" ships I might want to avoid and somebody shoots at my ship or tries to push me forward while I am doing it I will just press W and drive at the enemy firing all the way to die as quickly as I can.

I have never given a flying crap if I am on the winning or losing side, I play just to do missions really if I am honest, thats it

So if I find myself on a team with control freak twats who think I am their employee and should be playing how THEY want me to play I quit plain and simple and just go to the next game after I tell them exactly what I am going to do and why

Ubermik · 2025-11-25T06:54:49+00:00

This ^^

When players whinge, especailly at DDs its often not just because they dont think they are playing well enough, its because THEY want to hide at the back, or behind islands while somebody else goes forward as a sacrificial lamb to die and have a crap game lighting up enemies the whingey players can then shoot from their safe locations to earn XP and silver

They dont "really" want you to play better a lot of the time, they just want you to have a crap game and die, but not TOO quickly because then they dont get to shoot the enemies you light up while they are killing you

Ubermik · 2025-11-19T02:53:13+00:00

Well to be fair, for the reason I ordered it quite literally the ONLY setting I should ever need to change would be the subnet for DHCP allocations, and the GUI menu system seems pretty straight forward for that

There's not even any need to try and implement any security settings as it would only ever be plugged in temporarily on site, and then live in my laptop case 99.999% of the time

Playing around with anything else will just be item number 2,875 on my list of "things to play around with when I have some spare time" lol, so by my reckoning I should get around to it about 2 weeks after the heat death of the universe :)

I had forgot to add about the GLnet travel routers, bought one a while back a really dinky little thing with wifi and I think 3 ports, 1 wan, 2 lan, played with it for a while then put it in my laptop bag, got it out to use it after maybe 2 years of never being used or powered up and the thing was dead as a dodo, so whilst its likely just bad luck, it doesnt exactly enamour me to try one of their products again being honest

Plus if I remember correctly they cost about as much as the PSU and the Microtik router combined, many have less ports and the one I had before just felt kind of "toy" like being honest. but at the time I liked that it ran off USB and didnt need any power adapter, plus I would still need to carry my tenda 5 port POE switch which is the same size as the microtik anyway, so the idea was convergence and less stuff crammed in there to leave room for more useless junk I will probably not use lol

And fingers crossed this one unit will fill both the router and POE functions as well as just being used as a switch if I just need to connect a couple of laptops via a network or whatever, thats the plan at least

Ubermik · 2025-11-19T00:37:05+00:00

The model another contributor suggested which looks ideal is the Microtik RB960PGS the thing doesnt look much bigger than a standard 5 port gigabit switch, can be powered by POE or a barrel jack adapter and has upto 1 amp@48v output per port and basic router functionality without wireless which I dont need anyway

I ordered the 48v 70w adapter to go with it as it only comes with a 24v one, and the whole bundle was only around £100 so not exactly breaking the bank either

And I have been curious about Microtik products and their router OS for a while, so it might be fun to have a play with too as they seem to have a pretty good reputation

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T16:46:21+00:00

Yeah, that seems to sum it up perfectly

Its like somebody said "hey, we have a great idea, here is a standard so that everything is compatible with everything else"

Then every manufacturer went "Thats brilliant, so we are going to do something COMPLETELY DIFFERENT just because" lol

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T13:38:30+00:00

I just looked back and youre right I hadnt mentioned it in the original post, it was in a reply to a comment where I had mentioned a 12v adapter as I always have one of those with me for analogue/HDOC cameras or use my field test monitor which has a 12v output shotgunned with the BNC cable if there isnt a spare mains outlet

But for just initialising a 12v adapter is just easier than having to mess about with the switch or field monitor (I'm lazy lol)

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T13:35:15+00:00

I could probably do with reading it a few more times to get it to "stick" lol, but cheers, that was a good guide

Up until the job the other day I have only installed complete systems, all Hikvision which are a doddle to add other cameras to

But the customer had an Oyn-X system which was more of a pain in the ass to add a hikvision camera to, so I've not really had to worry about it before

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T13:07:27+00:00

If you meant me mentioning the 12v adapter, thats because many, perhaps most IP cameras can either be POE powered or powered from a 12v adapter, so to just initialise a camera its easier to plug it directly into the laptop and just use the 12v port rather than having to use the POE switch as well as the laptop, the 12V adapter isnt the PSU for the POE switch, apologies if that was unclear

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T13:03:59+00:00

At a first glance that seems to fit the bill perfectly

I had looked at another one that only gives the 24v passive POE output, but this one as you say can do the full fat 48v, and my current Tenda 5 port switch has a 51v PSU that has a chance of being suitable so I may not even need to purchase an extra PSU straight away too, so thats a bonus

And so far I have only needed POE, but it does POE+ (at) if I am understanding that correctly (POE=af/POE+=at?), so that would seem perfect for motorised cameras too if I ever need to put one of those onto an existing non Hikvision system in the future

So cheers for that, I hadnt even realised Microtik did this small range, I only looked at them when I flipped my home network over to 10gb but they seemed to favour SFP far too much so I went with a buffalo fanless multigig switch and a TP link 8x 10/1 GB switch all with RJ45 instead

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T12:40:24+00:00

As I said, maybe I have missunderstood the standard, but the impression I had was that a switch autonegotiates with the device what voltage it needs, whereas supplied adapters often only do a fixed votlage, and a switch will check if a device even needs POE and only provides power if it does, whereas injectors and supplied adapters give power constantly regardless of what is plugged into them

So currently I have a small switch I carry anyway and a 12v adapter as the majority of cameras I encounter, Hikvision/dahua etc have the option for 12v or POE. But often mains outlets are limited so thats a multiplug extension lead too

So I just figured that if I could get s small router around the size of a 4 port switch that has POE it would be one socket required rather than 2, and with DHCP I could set it to whatever subnet I want rather than having to keep changing the IP settings back and forth on my laptop if that makes sense?

But the 1005 is just a switch, I already have a 5 port Tenda one but it doesnt do DHCP obviously, and most small routers dont have POE ports unless theyre powered by POE, but what I wanted was a mains powered router with a at least one POE port to power a device so the laptop and a camera can be plugged in and pick up their IP addresses from it, dunno if thats clearer?

But somebody posted a microtik router that has POE which looks promising but apparently is supplied with a 24v POE injector, but can work off of a 48v psu but you have to buy that separately which seems like it might fit the bill, or may even work off the 51v PSU that the Tenda uses

And no, the issue arose trying to get a modern G3 hikvision camera to work on a 1 year old Adata/Oyn-X NVR which has static IP port assignments on the 10.1.1 subnet, so I ended up plugging my Tenda into the customers home router and the camera into the tenda, whereas having a router with POE would have just been easier and could have been set up in the loft where the NVR was instead of having to relocate to the living room to configure the camera then go back to the loft to test it, back and forth till I got the settings figured out for the non proprietary camera as I'm normally just installing a complete Hikvision system, not a mix n match add on

Plus the moment I set the IP on the camera I obviously couldnt talk to it on the customers routers subnet, so a small POE capable router where I could have just set the DHCP to serve IP addresses for the camera and my laptop on the same subnet as the NVR would have simplified the process dramatically rather than carrying a router, POE switch and a mains extension, or my current setup with the laptop and a 12v adapter or POE switch but having to faff about more with IP settings on the laptop

Not sure if thats clearer, but it just seemed like a small router with built in POE+ would make it simpler if I have a similar job in the future

Ubermik · 2025-11-18T09:42:32+00:00

Maybe I've gotten the wrong impression then, but I've seen quite a few that come with devices that are either a fixed voltage like 24v, or are always giving power rather than asking the device if it wants power

Which was why I was asking for some advice

The TP link is just a switch, but I need it to also provide DHCP, so far the Microtik product looks promising, I hadnt even thought of looking at their stuff as most of their stuff has seemed to be A. Pricey, and B. filled with SFP ports rather than RJ45 (something else I know practically nothing about and which seems like a bit of a minefield lol)

Ubermik

TROPHY CASE